SEMKI Sock Pattern by Natalia Vasilieva: Advanced Techniques and Detailed Instructions for Experienced Knitters

SEMKI

BY NATALIA VASILIEVA

Photo Anna Hromova SKILL LEVEL: EXPERIENCED. TECHNIQUES USED: MAGIC LOOP, FOLLOWING CHARTS, TWISTED-STITCH KNITTING, ARC-EXPANSION AREA, MODIFIED SQUARE HEEL, SHADOW WRAPS, LIFTED INCREASES, LONG-TAIL (TWO-STRAND) TUBULAR CAST-ON, MODIFIED INTERLOCK BIND-OFF, INVISIBLE CIRCULAR BEGINNING, JUDY'S MAGIC CAST-ON (OPTIONAL), GRAFTING (OPTIONAL).

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Sock length: 9" (23 cm) to fit foot length 10" (25.5 cm). Sock circumference: 7" (18 cm), to fit foot circumference 83/4" (22 cm). Leg length: 83/4" (22 cm).

TOOLS AND MATERIALS

· Zitron Trekking Sport XXL (75% wool, 25% polyamide (nylon); 459 yds (420 m) per 100 g): 1 skein in #1456 (beige) · Circular needles US 1%2 (2.5 mm) or size to get the gauge; at least 32" (80 cm) length ·Blunt sewing needle

GAUGE

Stockinette: 15 sts x 24 rows = 2" x 2" (5 x 5 cm). titch pattern (Leg chart): 22 sts x 12 rows = 13/4" x 11%8" (4.5 x 3 cm

PATTERN NOTES

These socks are worked in Magic Loop technique with the beginning of the round (BOR) at the back of the leg and then at the middle of the sole (or vice versa). You may utilize any other technique of your choice preserving BOR position. One sock is worked cuff-down. It starts with a long-tail (two-strand) tubular cast-on, and has an arc-expansion area with integrated gussets on the instep. The heel turn is worked in modified square fashion, i.e. starts as a half-handkerchief heel turn but ends as a square (Dutch) heel turn, and then instep toe narrows in pattern. The other sock is worked toe-up. It starts with an Invisible circular beginning, and instep toe increases establish the stitch pattern. Then the heel turn is worked in reverse modified square heel fashion, to create the arc-expansion area. The cuff is bound-off in modified interlock technique for 1x1 ribbing which is based on Jeny Staiman's interlock bind-off but slightly differs to resemble the appearance of a long-tail (two-strand) tubular cast-on. Alternative directions are provided for those who prefer a more rounded toe. Of course, you may knit both socks cuff-down or toe-up, too. Please check 'Note on Conditional Decreases".

NOTE ON CONDITIONAL DECREASES

Bi-directional Pair

Cuff-down (right) sock and toe-up (left) sock from the sample pair were Worked like this:

You may make them even more elaborate:

Toe-up Socks

Work both toe-up socks as pictured on p.4 for toe-up sock of any bidirectional pair. Easier way is to work all conditional decreases slanting the same direction on one sock and the opposite direction on the other sock.

Cuff-down Socks

Since motifs on cuff-down socks are offset by 1/8 of a circle, conditional decreases fall at the sides and at the middle of the instep and the back of the leg. You now have different options to maintain the symmetry of a pair: work all conditional decreases slanting the same direction on one sock and the opposite direction on the other sock; work side conditional decreases fanning toward center of each instep, and middle conditional decreases toward inner side of leg:

work both socks symmetrically as pictured on p.4 for cuff-down sock of any bi-directional pair. Please note that all the schematics only illustrate an idea of conditional decreases distribution and aren't an accurate representation of finished socks.

DIRECTIONS

Cuff-down Sock

Cuff:

Using long-tail (two-strand) tubular method, cast on 80 sts. Turn. Assuming your cast-on starts from "knit" loop, work next row as follows: (\*) knit 1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from (\*) across. If your cast-on starts from "purl" loop, slip it with yarn in front and move to end of round after joining. Join in the round being careful not to twist the stitches, and work next round as follows: (\*) slip 1 wyib, purl 1, repeat from (\*) across. Start twisted-stitch ribbing as follows: (\*) k1 tbl, pl, repeat from (\*), and work for 20 rounds.

Leg:

Proceed to Cuff-down Leg Chart starting from Row 21, and work it for 4 times around leg, 4 times along leg = Round 70.

Arc-Expansion Area:

Make sure the beginning of the round is at the back of the leg. Start next round with Cuff-down Leg Chart for 1 time, then work Cuff-down Arc Chart for 2 times starting from Row 71, and end with Cuff-down Leg Chart again. Work as established to the end of Cuff-down Arc Chart = Round 92, 124 sts. Rounds 93-94: Work Cuff-down Leg Chart for 2 times, then Cuff-down Instep&Toe Chart for 1 time, and end with Cuff-down Leg Chart for 2 times. Note that the p3tog immediately before the Cuff-down Instep&Toe Chart (= purl channel above gusset motif on Needle 1) should be replaced with p1 = 40+22 sts on Needle 1, 22+40 sts on Needle 2. Slip 45 instep stitches onto cable, leaving 39+40 sole stitches on needles with beginning of the round between needle tips.

Heel Turn:

Next row (RS): Knit 2, ssk, k1, turn. Next row (Ws): Slip 1, purl 6, p2tog, p1, turn. Next row: Slip 1, knit 7 (to slipped stitch), ssk, k1, turn. Next row: Slip 1, purl 8 (to slipped stitch), p2tog p1, turn. Repeat last 2 rows 9 more times expanding heel turn area 1 stitch each row for 22 rows in total, until 14+29+14 sts left. End with WS row. Next row (Rs): Slip 1, k27, ssk, turn. Next row (Ws): Slip 1, p27, p2tog, turn. Repeat last 2 rows 12 more times, until 31 sts left on the sole side.

Foot:

Resume working in the round as follows: slip 1, k27, ssk, work Row 95 of Cuff-down Instep&Toe Chart on 45 instep stitches, k2tog, k14 - you're at the middle of the sole, 29 sts in the sole. It might be more convenient to ke Continue sole in stockinette and instep in instep stitches on one needle and sole stitches on the other needle pattern as established for 44 rounds = preserving the beginning of the round in the middle of the sole. Round 138.

Toe:

Decrease round: Sole: Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog; Instep: Work next row of Cuffdown Instep&Toe Chart; Sole: Ssk, knit to the middle of the sole. Next round: Sole: Knit; Instep: Work next row of Cuff-down Instep&Toe Chart; Sole: Knit. Repeat these 2 rounds 12 more times = 6 sts left. Cut the yarn, pull the tail through remaining stitches and draw tight.

Alternative Rounded Toe:

Continue foot as established ending with Round 144. Knit to end of sole = beginning of Round 145. Decrease round: Instep: Work next row of Cuff-down Instep&Toe Chart; Sole: Ssk, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog. Next round: Instep: Work next row of Cuff-down Instep&Toe Chart; Sole: Knit. Repeat these 2 rounds 5 more times = Round 155, 17+17 sts. Then work only Decrease round for 6 times = Round 161, 5+5 sts. Cut the tail about 5" (12 cm) length and graft the remaining stitches.

patternrepeat no stitch k1 tbl p1 (k1 tbl, yo, k1 tbl) in 1 stitch (p1 tbl, yo, p1 tbl) in 1 stitch p3tog twisted right-leaning double decrease:insert right needle tip into 3rd stitch as if to purl, slip 3 stitches off left needle holding them with fingers,then insert left needle back into 2 free stitches and into leftmost stitch on right needle; k3tog tbl twisted left-leaning double decrease: slip 1 as if to purl, k2tog, psso conditional twisted double decrease (see "Note on Conditional Decreases") on Rounds 30, 42, 54, 66, 78, and 90, work these two stitches at the beginning of each needle, then slip them onto the previous needle - these 2 sts will be worked into the double decrease on the next round p1 immediately before Cuff-down Instep&Toe Chart, otherwise p3tog (k1 tbl, yo, k1 tbl, yo, k1 tbl) in 1 stitch Cuff-down Leg Chart (20 - 22 sts, 12-row repeat)

4241					30		10
	40							92
								91
								90
								89
								88
								87
								86

								85
								84
								83
								82 81
								80
							10	79 78 77 76 73
22		21	2019181716151413	O 12		Q 5 Q 11

patternrepeat Ino stitch k1 tbl p1 (k1 tbl, yo, k1 tbl) in 1 stitch (p1 tbl, yo, p1 tbl) in 1 stitch p3tog

Toe-up Sock

Toe:

Leave 2" (5 cm) tail and use it as a spare thread to cast on 6 sts with Invisible You may use any circular beginning cast-on of your choice. method. Turn the work and set up as follows: k2 (=sole); p1, k1 tbl, p1 (=instep); k1 (=sole). Join in the round being careful not to twist the stitches. Pull the tail through the 1st loop and draw tight. It might be more convenient to keep instep stitches on one needle and solestitchesonthe other needle until Heel Turn preserving the beginning of the round in the middleof thesole. starting from Row 1. Sole: Knit 1, then pick up left leg of stitch two rows below stitch on right needle and knit it (= lifted increase to left, LLinc). Next round: Sole: Knit; Instep: Work next row of Toe-up Toe&Instep Chart; Sole: Knit. Repeat these 2 round making lifted increases at sides of sole toe every other round, 12 more times until 29 sts in the sole = Round 27.

Alternative Rounded Toe:

Using JMCO, cast on 5+5 sts. Set up as follows: k5 (=sole); p1, k1 tbl, p1, k1 tbl, p1 (=instep). Increase round: Sole: Knit 1, then pick up left leg of stitch two rows below stitch on right needle and knit it (= lifted increase to left, LLinc), k3, pick up right leg of stitch from row below stitch on left needle and knit it, then knit stitch on left needle (= lifted increase to right, RLinc); Instep: Proceed to Toe-up Toe&Instep Chart starting from Row 3. Repeat Increase round 5 more times = Round 8, 17+17 sts. Continue as established making lifted increases at the sides of sole every odd-numbered round for 6 times = Round 19, 29 sole sts, 41 instep sts. Knit 14 - you're at the middle of the sole (= beginning of Round 20).

Foot:

Work sole in stockinette and instep in pattern as established to the end of Round 69. Slip 45 instep stitches onto cable, leaving 15+14 sole stitches on needles with beginning of the round between needle tips.

Heel Turn:

Next row (RS): Knit 15, LLinc, turn. Next row (Ws): Slip 1, purl 29, pick up left leg of stitch two rows below stitch on right needle and purl it, turn = 31 sts. Next row: Slip 1, k29, p1. Next row: Slip 1, p30. Repeat last 2 rows 10 more times for 24 rows in total. Next row (Rs): Slip 1, knit to last 2 sts, pick up right leg of stitch one row below stitch on left needle and knit it (= RS shadow wrap), turn. Next row (WS): Slip 1 (=shadow wrap), purl to last 2 sts, pick up right leg of stitch one row below stitch on left needle and purl it (= WS shadow Wrap),turn. Next row: Slip 1 (=shadow wrap), knit to 1 stitch before RS shadow wrap of previous row, make RS shadow wrap, turn. Next row: Slip 1 (=shadow wrap), purl to 1 stitch before WS shadow wrap of previous row, make WS shadow wrap, turn. Repeat last 2 rows 10 more times, until 5 sts left with 12 shadow wraps at each side.

Arc-Expansion Area:

Resume working in the round as follows: slip 1 (=shadow wrap), k2 - you're at the back of the leg now; (\*) p1, k1 tbl, repeat from (\*) along heel turn treating shadow wraps as separate stitches for 28 sts; pick up and knit 12 along straight edge of heel turn; work Row 70 of Toe-up Toe&Instep Chart on 45 instep stitches as established; pick up and knit 12 along straight edge of heel turn; (\*) k1 tbl, p1, repeat from (\*) along heel turn for 27 sts treating shadow wraps as separate stitches, ending with k1 tbl = 124 sts. Work Row 71 of Toe-up Leg Chart for 2 times, then Row 71 of Toe-up Toe&Instep Chart, and end with Row 71 of Toe-up Leg Chart for 2 times again. Note that the (p1 tbl, yo, p1 tbl) increase immediately after the Toeup Toe&Instep Chart (= purl channel for gusset motif on Needle 2) should be replaced with p1. Next round: Work next row of Toe-up Leg Chart 1 time, continue with Toeup Arc Chart for 2 times, and end with Toe-up Leg Chart again. Work as established to the end of Toe-up Arc Chart = 88 sts, 25 rounds counting from heel turn.

Leg:

Continue with Toe-up Leg Chart as established, 4 times along leg = 80 sts, 72 rounds counting from heel turn. Please note that the last repeat of Toeup Leg Chart ends with Row 142, and then proceed to Row 143 (without (p1 tbl, yo, p1 tbl) increases).

Cuff:

Work in twisted-stitch ribbing as established for 20 rounds. Next round: (\*) slip 1 wyif, k1 tbl, repeat from (\*) across. Next round: (\*) pl, slip 1 wiyb, repeat from (\*) across. Cut the yarn leaving a tail about 55" (140 cm), thread the blunt sewing needle and bind-off with modified interlock method? as follows: 1. Purl 1 as usual = the first purl stitch is bound off, and you've created the first purl loop. This loop will be fully connected on Step 4. 2. Insert sewing needle into the next knit stitch from WS to RS, then into the previous purl loop from WS (may look more like from the p down), return from RS to WS via the same knit stitch and slip off the needle = one knit stitch is bound off, and you've created a knit loop connected to the previous purl loop. Make sure you didn't twist either the previous purl loop or the knit loop.

3. Insert sewing needle into the next purl stitch from RS to WS, then into the previous knit loop from RS (may look more like from the

top down), return from WS to RS via the same purl stitch and slip it off the needle = one purl stitch is bound off, and you've created a purl loop connected to the previous knit loop. Make sure you didn't twist either the previous knit loop or the purl loop. 4. Repeat Steps 2 & 3 tightening ready loops after binding-off every 10 sts, until you reach the last knit stitch and first

purl loop. Insert sewing needle into the last knit stitch from WS to RS, then into the previous purl loop from WS (may look more like from the top down) and out of the first purl loop from RS (may look more like from the bottom up), return from RS to WS via the same knit stitch and slip it off the needle. Done! Illustrations for modified interlock bind-off are graciously provided by Oksana Romashko.