JENNY'S LEFTOVER SOCKS by Laura Jenkins
1 knit these socks as a part of the Ravelry SKA December 2009 SOCKDOWN! challenge of using leftover yarn; having knit along with the group for several months, my stash of leftover yarn was almost as large as my stash of “virgin" yarn. I have always loved the fairisle technique, so decided to take the designing plunge. 1 pulled out my Alice Starmore's Fair lsle Knitting book, and chose my patterns from her glossary. The combination of lots of wonderfully supportive comments from my fellow SKA-ers and the Ravelympics 2010 Designer Pattern Skeleton event gave me the impetus to write what I did down and share it with anyone who's interested. lf you do give these a whirl and find any mistakes, please do let me know!! SIZE
Women's Smal(Large) [35/(40) Eur]
NOTES
Iwouldsuggestthatthispatternisfortheinterrmediate-level knitter who has either some basic knowledge of sock construction or experience in stranded knitting. This pattern is a good introduction to colourwork or stranded knitting since it's a small project, but the fact that it's a sock and goes on over multiple toes (l), makes it really important to keep your yarn floats (non-working yarn that is carried along the back of the work) short - be sure to catch up the non-working yarn every 2 - 3 stitches. The other important thing to consider in stranded knitting is your yarn weight - consistent weight of the different coloursmakesfor a consistentknitfabric. Two things about the heel flap:1) it's unusual in that it is knit using stranded intarsia.In this technique, the yarn is carried over the pattern as in standard stranded knitting, but only as far as it is needed for that row. In order to avoid holes on the return row, twist the non-working yarn around the working yarn at the point where you pick up the stranding again. 2) You may want to go down a needle size when working the heel flap, as your tensionmaybeslightlylooserknittingback andforthvsknittingin theround. 1 have written this pattern forknitting with one or two circular needles, however it can easily be adjusted to using five double-pointed needles (DPN's) - just divide the stitches of Circular Needle 1 evenly over DPNs 1 & 2, and the stitches of Circular Needle 2 over DPNs 3 & 4. Finally, in order to knit a size Medium of this sock I'd recommend going up in needle size and using the instructions for the Small rather than trying to increase the number of sts in the pattern.This is because the pattern is made up of various peeries and border patterns with repeats of 4, 6, 8 and 12 stitches - the only way to increase the pattern and maintain its integrity would be to increase by 24 sts, which is what I did to get to a
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Leg circumference: $2\mathbf{lcm}\big(28\mathrm{cm}\big)/8\%$ inches(1l inches)
MATERIALS
Note:theyardagesbelow are estimates only anddepend entirely onthe weight of the yarn you choose; you should use a total of approximately 350 - 450 yards yarn to make a pair of socks. Feel free to use more or less colours; the important thing is toget enough contrast withyour main colour to let the patternstandout.
MATERIALS (cont.) Fingering weight (sock) yarn in 6 different colours: Main Colour (MC) - approx. $125\mathrm{m}\big(150\mathrm{m}\big)/135\mathrm{yds}\big(165\mathrm{~yds}\big)$ CC1 for Cuff & Heel - $40\mathbf{m}(50\mathbf{m})/45\mathbf{y}\mathrm{d}\mathbf{s}(55\mathbf{y}\mathrm{d}\mathbf{s})$ CC2 - 30m(40m)/35 yds(45yds) CC3 - 50m(65m)/55yds(70yds) CC4 & CC5-125m(150m)/135yds(165 yds) Stitch markers Tapestry needle for grafting toe and weaving in all those pesky ends RECOMMENDED NEEDLE SIZE: $2.5\mathsf{m m}$ needles - one OR two circulars OR one set of 5 double-point needles $2.25\mathsf{m m}$ needles may be required when knitting the heel flap (see note above) Note: no matter what your choice in needles, always use the size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique, and can be different with different techniques.1, for one, knit a much tighter gauge whendoingcolourworkintheround. GAUGE 10 sts/12rows $=2.5\mathrm{cm/l}$ inch in colourwork on the larger-sized needles [Did 1 mention that I knit to a very tight gaugewhen doingcolourwork?!]
ABBREVIATIONS
st $=$ stitch $=$ $=$ knit all right-side rows, purl all wrong-side rows K2 tbl/P2Rib $=$ Knit one stitch through the back of the loop, knit a second stitch through the back of the loop, purl two stitches. Repeat across row. K2Tog $=$ Knit two together $=$ insert the right hand needle into the next 2 stitches on the left hand needle and knit them together - this creates a right-leaning decrease. ssk $=$ Slip, SlipKnit $=$ Slip one stitch knitwise onto the right hand needle, slip a second stitch purlwise onto the right hand needle, then insert the left hand needle through the front of both stitches and knit them together. This creates a left-leaning decrease. $\mathsf{P2T o g\mathrm{~=~}P u r l}$ twotogether $=$ Insert the right hand needle into the next 2 stitches on the left hand needle and purl themtogether $\mathbf{S}\mathbf{l}\mathbf{\Psi}=$ Slip one stitch purlwise onto the right hand needle W&T $=$ Wrap&Turn $=$ On knit rows: bring yarn to the front of the work, slip one st purlwise onto the right hand needle, move yarn to the back of the work and move slipped st back to the left hand needle. Turn work, ready to start the next row. On purl rows: bring yarn to the back of the work, slip one st purlwise onto the right hand needle, move yarn to the front of the work and move slipped st back to the left hand needle. Turn work, ready to start the next row. $\begin{array}{r}{\mathbf{P}\mathbf{M}=}\end{array}$ Place Marker $\boldsymbol{\mathsf{S}}\boldsymbol{M}=$ Slip Marker N1, $\mathbf{N}\mathbf{2}=$ Needle 1, Needle 2 CUFF With CCl, cast on 72(96) stitches using a loose cast-on and distribute the stitches evenly across all needles $\phantom{-}=\,36$ (48) sts per needle. Join sts in the round, being careful not to twist them and knit 15 rows in K2 tbl/P2 Rib. LEG Switch to MC and knit all rows of LEG CHART for the appropriate size. Note:there are 2 repeats ofthe pattern per round-the first repeat is knit across Needle 1 (Ni) and the second repeat is knit across Needle2 (N2).
HEELFLAPSET-UP ROUND Note 1: The heel flap is knit over 35 stitches for both size socks, so a single decrease is done on the first row of theheelchart. Note 2: Redistribution of the stitches is required for the size Large - follow the instructions below carefully. Size Small - Knit all 36 stitches from Ni in MC. Break yarn and leave these stitches on N1. Size Large - With MC, knit the 48 stitches of Ni PLuS the first 6 stitches of N2 (54 sts total are now on Ni). Slip the last 6 stitches of N2 onto the other end of N1 so that you now have 60 sts on N1. Break yarn. Both Sizes: You should now be ready to start the Heel Flap on N2 (36 sts); all other stitches remain held on N1.
HEEL FLAP
Row l: Sll, knit remaining sts of the HEEL FLAP CHART, making sure that you decrease one st on the first row. Rows 2-34: Continue knitting HEEL FLAP CHART slipping the first st of every row.
TURN HEEL
Row l: Continuing with CCl, Ki9 sts, ssk, Ki, W&T. Row 2: SLl, P5 sts, P2tog Pl, W&T. Row 3: SLl, K6 sts, ssk, K1 W&T. Repeat Rows 2 and 3, increasing the number of stockinette sts before the decrease by 1 st each row until all sts are used up. On the last knit row, end with ssk (no Ki). Turn the work, sll and purl to the end: 20sts remain on needle.
PICK UP GUSSETS
Size Small With MC, knit across 20 Hee sts. With the same needle, pick up 16 sts along the edge of the heel flap, plus one st in the space between the edge and the stitches being held on N. PM, then with another needle knit across all 36 sts on Ni in MC (these will become the top of the foot), PM, then pick up one st in the space between the top of the foot and the heel edge, and pick up the following 16 sts on the edge of the heel flap. Size Large: With MC, knit across 20 Heel sts. With the same needle, pick up 16 sts along the edge of the heel flap, plus one st in the space between the edge and the stitches being held on Ni. Continuing with MC, knit the next 6 sts, PM, then with another needle knit across all 48 sts on N1 in MC (these will become the top of the foot). PM and continuing in MC, knit remaining 6 stitches on Ni, then pick up one st in the space between the top of the foot and the heel edge, and pick up the following 16 sts on the edge of the heel flap. Set-Up Round: Knit 35 sts, ssk, knit 0(6) sts and SM. Redistribute the sts across the needles such that the top of foot sts are on oneneedle $[^{\alpha}\mathrm{N}\mathrm{I}^{\prime\prime}-36(48)\mathrm{sts}]$ and the gusset and sole stitches are on the other needle $[^{\iota}\mathsf{N}2^{\prime\prime}-$ 53(65) stsl. Note: The round now starts at the top of the foot. Because you have an uneven number of stitches on N2; there is a single K2Tog decrease in the gusset section of Round 1 of the foot chart - don't forgetit!
FOOT&GUSSETDECREASES
Row l: Knit all sts on Nl according to the appropriate Foot Chart. With MC, Ki, K2Tog, knit to marker, SM. Knit all sts of the appropriate Foot Chart, then SM and knit to end in MC. Rows 2,4,6,8,10,12,14 & 16 Knit all sts on N1 according to the appropriate Foot Chart. Sli, then with MC, SSK, knit to last st
before marker, sl, SM. Knit all sts of the appropriate Foot Chart, SM, Sll and with MC knit to 3 sts from the end, K2tog, sll. Rows 3,5,7,9,1,13,15 & 17 Knit all sts on N1 according to the appropriate Foot Chart. With MC, knit to marker, SM, knit all sts of the appropriate Foot Chart, SM and with MC knit to end of row. Row 18: Knit all sts on Ni according to the appropriate Foot Chart. With the last gusset st and the first stitch of the Foot Chart, SSK, remove marker and knit across the appropriate Foot Chart to the last st before marker. With last stitch of foot chart & last guset st, K2Tog, remove marker. 72(96) sts now remain and are evenly divided on N1 & N2. Knit remaining rows of the appropriate Foot Chart. TOE Note: As for the heel, the Toe Chart is centered over an uneven number of stitches. This is why only a single decreaseisdoneonthefirstrowoftheChart. Knit the appropriate Toe Chart until io(i8) sts remain on the needles.
FINISHING
Graft toe using Kitchener st, weave in all ends, and then make a second sock to match the first.
IN CASEYOUWEREWONDERING..
My name is Laura Jenkins and I've been knitting since I was a teenager. My grandmother Helen Matte, who was a wonderful knitter, taught me how,although shenevermanaged toridmeof “that disgustinghabit”ofthrowing myyanI will never be a demonstrationmodel forthetechnique that'sfor sure!!Thefirst projectIremembermakingwasaLopi-type sweater, knit in the round using DK-weight yarn- all pinks and pale blues- and with a tension across the yoke that was completely different fromtherest of the sweater.gotfarmore serious aboutknittingwhenmyfriends started havingbabies teeny tiny baby sweaters are so quick to knit!! 1 joined Ravelry in January 2008, and that's when the real trouble began. Thousands of patterns, hundreds of knitters and photos of FOs worn by “real" people (ie not your typical size O models) -1 was in paradise! 1 discovered the SKA group in January 2009, and lurked until May when Yarnissima's Kila sock was offered as the Mystery Sock.1 was hooked, and have been a loyal participant in all SOCKDOWNs since. If you have any comments on this pattern, please fel free to contact me through Ravelry, where I'm known as Laural. Happyknitting!
CHARTS for Size SMALL
LEGEND MC ECC2 dCC3 UCC4 CC5 HEEL FLAP CHART TOE CHART: SMALL
363534333231302928272625242322212019181716151413121110987654321
363534333231302928272625242322212019181716151413121110987654321
CHARTS for Size LARGE
48474645444342414039383736353433323130292827262524232221201918171615141312111098765432 HEEL FLAP CHART
363534333231302928272625242322212019181716151413121110987654321
484746454443424140393837363534333231302928272625242322212019181716151413121110987654321
