Hazelia Socks
Materials - 1 skein of fingering weight yarn (\~ 400 yds). I used the Verdant Gryphon Eidos in "Orchids for Miss Blandish" Needles - 2.25 mm (US size 1), or size needed to obtain gauge Stitch markers and tapestry needle. Size: Women's small, medium & large Gauge: 8 - 9 stitches; 11 - 12 rows per inch in the charted pattern (l'm a REALLY tight knitter, you may prefer a loosergauge.) The charted pattern is used on the top of the foot and leg. On pages 9 & 10 there are some suggestions for improving the fit of your sock and links for techniques used in this pattern. There are three sizes - Small (60 stitches), Medium (66 stitches), and Large (72 stitches). The stitch counts for the Medium & Large size are in []
Abbreviations: DS: Drop Slip - Drop the yarn over from the previous round, Slip 1, Knit 2, Passthe slipped stitch ovel K: Knit K2Tog: Knit 2 Together M1: Make 1 P: Purl P2Tog: Purl 2 together SSK: Slip both stitches knit wise to the right needle, then knit them together through the back loops SI: Slip YO: Yarn Over Toe: Using Judy's Magic Cast On cast on 22 [26] stitches (11 [13] stitches on each needle). Knit all of the stitches on each needle once. (Note: I prefer to make my increases by doing a yarn over on one round, and knitting it through the back on the next. It makes it very easy to tell whether or not I'm on an increase round.) Round 1: Instep needle: K2, M1, knit until 2 stitches before the last stitch, M1, K2. Sole needle: K2, M1, knit until 2 stitches before the last stitch, M1, K2. Round 2: Knit all stitches (Note: if you are using dpn's you will want to start using the 4th needle on this row, and place some markers to separate the instep and sole stitches.) Round 3: Instep needle: K2, M1, knit until 2 stitches before the last stitch, M1, K2. Sole needle: K2, M1, knit until 2 stitches before the last stitch, M1, K2. Round 4: Knit Repeat Rounds 3 & 4 until there are 62 [66, 70] stitches total (31 [33, 35] between each marker). Small size only - decrease 1 stitch on the instep to bring the total instep stitches to 30. Large size only - Increase 1 stitch on the instep 36 stitches. You may wish to add or subtract some sole stitches for the best individual fit. Optional Eye of Partridge Toe: I like some extra reinforcement in my toes so I came up with this method. Note: All slipped stitches should be slipped knit wise g Judy's Magic Cast On cast on 22 [26] stitches (11 [13] stitches on each needle Round 1: Instep needle: K2, (Sl 1, K1) to last 3 stitches, K3 Sole needle: Knit Round 2: Instep needle: K2, YO, Knit to last 2 stitches, YO, K2 Sole needle: K2, YO, (K1, Sl 1) to last 3 stitches, K1, YO, K2 Round 3: Instep needle: K2, Ktbl, (K1, Sl 1) to last 4 stitches, K1, Ktbl, K2 Sole needle: K2, Ktbl, Knit to last 3 stitches, Ktbl, K2 Round 4: Instep needle: K2, YO, Knit to last 2 stitches, YO, K2 Sole needle: K2, YO, (K1, Sl 1) to last 3 stitches, K1, YO, K2 Round 5: Instep needle: K2, Ktbl, (K1, Sl 1) to last 4 stitches, K1, Ktbl, K2 Sole needle: K2, Ktbl, Knit to last 3 stitches, Ktbl, K2 Round 6: Instep needle: K2, YO, Knit to last 2 stitches, YO, K2 Sole needle: K2, YO, (K1, Sl 1) to last 3 stitches, K1 YO, K2 Repeat Rounds 5 & 6 until there are 62 [66, 70] stitches total (31 [33, 35] between each marker). Small size only - decrease 1 stitch on the instep to bring the total instep stitches to 30. Large size only - Increase 1 stitch on the instep 36 stitches. You may wish to add or subtract some sole stitches for the best individual fit. Instep: Work the chart as it appears. Sole: Knit all stitches Continue following the chart until the sock measures 3.5 inches less than your foot length.
Gusset increases:
Round 1: Make 1, Place Marker, continue working chart, PM, M 1. Knit the sole stitches. Round 2: Knit 1, Slip Marker, work chart, SM, knit 1. Knit the sole stitches. Round 3: M 1, K1, SM, work chart, SM, K 1, M 1. Knit the sole stitches. Round 4: K 2, SM, work chart, SM, K 2. Knit the sole stitches. Round 5: M 1, K 2, work chart, K 2, M 1. Knit the sole stitches. Round 6: K 3, SM, work chart, SM, K 3. Knit the sole stitches. Continue increasing in this fashion until you have increased 13 [13, 15] times. There will be 57, [59, 65] stitches on the sole needle, and a total of 87 [92, 103] for the entire sock. After the last gusset increases, increase 6 stitches, evenly spaced, in each gusset section. There will now be 19 [19 21] gusset stitches, 69 [71, 77] sole stitches, 99 [104, 115], for the entire sock. You may want to mark the last round you completed on the chart so you can find the right round easily when you have finished the heel.
Heel turn:
The heel turn will be worked back and forth over the center 31 [33, 35] sole stitches. All slipped stitches should be slipped knit wise. Row 1: (RS): Sl 1, \*K 1, Sl 1\* to the last 2 sole stitches, Wrap & Turn Row 2: (WS): Sl 1, purl to the last 2 sole stitches, Wrap & Turn Row 3: (RS): K 1, \*Sl 1, K 1\* to the stitch before the wrapped stitch, Wrap & Turn Row 4: (WS): Sl 1, purl to 1 stitch before the wrapped stitch, Wrap & Turn Repeat Rows 3 & 4 until there are 8 [8, 9] wrapped stitches on each side. (You may wish to add or subtract some wrapped stitches for the best individual fit.) Knit across the heel stitches to first wrapped stitch. Work the wrapped stitch and its wrap together. Do this until the last wrapped stitch. (There should be an unwrapped stitch behind it.) Knit the 2 stitches and the wrap together. Turn. Purl to the first wrapped stitch. Work the wrapped stitch and its wrap together. Do this until the last wrapped stitch. (There should be an unwrapped stitch behind it.) Purl the 2 stitches and the wrap together. You should now have 29 [31, 33] heel stitches. Turn.
Eye of Partridge Stitch Heel Flap:
Row 1: Slip the 1st stitch. (K 1, Sl 1) to last stitch. Slip the last stitch, knit the 1st gusset stitch and pass the slipped stitch over.Turn Row 2: Slip the 1st stitch. Purl to the last stitch. Purl this stitch together with the 1st gusset stitch. Turn. Row 3: Slip the 1st stitch. (Sl 1, K 1) to last stitch. Slip the last stitch, knit the 1st gusset stitch and pass the slipped stitch over. Turn Row 4: Slip the 1st stitch. Purl to the last stitch. Purl this stitch together with the 1s gusset stitch. Turn Repeat these 4 rows until 0 [0, 1] gusset stitch[es] remain on each side. Small & Large size only - increase 1 stitch on the last row of the heel flap to bring the total heel stitches to 30 [34]. You should have a total of 60 [66, 72] stitches. Continue working the charted pattern on the instep stitches. (Note: After working the heel, start the pattern for the back of the leg on the same row as the front. If you are in the middle of the chart it won't really make a difference.) Continue working the pattern until about 1 %2 inches from the desired length. Ribbing: Work in P1, K 2 ribbing for 1 %2 inches, and bind off loosely.
Small (60 stitch chart) Note: There are 30 stitches for the instep. Work stitches 1-40 once for the instep, twice for the leg Small Stitch Pattern - Repeat Rounds 22 - 41. Round 1: Knit. (30 sts) Round 2: Yo, k30. (31 sts) Round 3: Yo, DS, k27. (30 sts) Round 4: K3, yo, k27. (31 sts) Round 5: K3, yo, DS, k24. (30 sts) Round 6: Yo, k6, yo, k24. (32 sts) Round 7: Yo, DS, k3, yo, DS, k21. (30 sts) Round 8: K3, yo, k6, yo, k21. (32 sts) Round 9: (K3, yo, DS) x 2, k18. (30 sts) Round 10: (Yo, k6) x 2, yo, k18. (33 sts) Round 11: (Yo, DS, k3) x 2, yo, DS, k15. (30 sts) Round 12: K3, (yo, k6) x 2, yo, k15. (33 sts) Round 13: (K3, yo, DS) x 3, k12. (30 sts) Round 14: (K6, yo) x 3, k12. (33 sts) Round 15: K6, (yo, DS, k3) x 2, yo, DS, k9. (30 sts) Round 16: K9, (yo, k6) x 2, yo, k9. (33 sts) Round 17: K9, (yo, DS, k3) x 2, yo, DS, k6. (30 sts) Round 18: K12, (yo, k6) x 3. (33 sts) Round 19: K12, (yo, DS, k3) x 3. (30 sts) Round 20: K15, (yo, k6) x 2, yo, k3. (33 sts) Round 21: K15, (yo, DS, k3) x 2, yo, DS. (30 sts) Round 22: (Yo, k18, (yo, k6) x 2). (33 sts) Round 23: (Yo, DS, k15, (yo, DS, k3) x 2). (30 sts) Round 24: (K3, yo, k18, yo, k6, yo, k3). (33 sts) Round 25: (K3, yo, DS, k15, yo, DS, k3, yo, DS). (30 sts) Round 26: (Yo, k6, yo, k18, yo, k6). (33 sts) Round 27: (Yo, DS, k3, yo, DS, k15, yo, DS, k3). (30 sts) Round 28: (K3, yo, k6, yo, k18, yo, k3). (33 sts) Round 29: (K3, yo, DS) x2, k15, yo, DS). (30 sts) Round 30: ((Yo, k6) x 2, yo, k18). (33 sts) Round 31: ((Yo, DS, k3) x 2, yo, DS, k15). (30 sts) Round 32: (K3, (yo, k6) x 2, yo, k15). (33 sts) Round 33: (K3, yo, DS) x 3, k12). (30 sts) Round 34: (K6, yo) x 3, k12). (33 sts) Round 35: (K6, (yo, DS, k3) x 2, yo, DS, k9). (30 sts) Round 36: (K9, (yo, k6) x 2, yo, k9). (33 sts) Round 37: (K9, (yo, DS, k3) x2, yo, DS, k6). (30 sts) Round 38: (K12, (yo, k6) x 3). (33 sts) Round 39: (K12, (yo, DS, k3) x 3). (30 sts) Round 40: (K15, (yo, k6) x 2, yo, k3). (33 sts) Round 41: (K15, (yo, DS, k3) x 2, yo, DS). (30 sts)
Medium (66 stitch) Chart Note: There are 33 stitches for the instep. Work stitches 1-44 once for the instep, twice for the leg Medium Stitch Pattern - Repeat Rounds 24 - 45. Round 1: Knit. (33 sts) Round 2: Yo, k33. (34 sts) Round 3: Yo, DS, k30. (33 sts) Round 4: K3, yo, k30. (34 sts) Round 5: K3, yo, DS, k27. (33 sts) Round 6: Yo, k6, yo, k27. (35 sts) Round 7: Yo, DS, k3, yo, DS, k24. (33 sts) Round 8: K3, yo, k6, yo, k24. (35 sts) Round 9: (K3, yo, DS) x2, k21. (33 sts) Round 10: (Yo, k6) x 2, yo, k21. (36 sts) Round 11: (Yo, DS, k3) x 2, yo, DS, k18. (33 sts) Round 12: K3, (yo, k6) x 2, yo, k18. (36 sts) Round 13: (K3, yo, DS) x 3, k15. (33 sts) Round 14: (K6, yo) x 3, k15. (36 sts) Round 15: K6, (yo, DS, k3) x 2, yo, DS, k12. (33 sts) Round 16: K9, (yo, k6) x 2, yo, k12. (36 sts) Round 17: K9, (yo, DS, k3) x 2, yo, DS, k9. (33 sts) Round 18: K12, (yo, k6) x 2, yo, k9. (36 sts) Round 19: K12, (yo, DS, k3) x 2, yo, DS, k6. (33 sts) Round 20: K15, (yo, k6) x 3. (36 sts) Round 21: K15, (yo, DS, k3) x 3. (33 sts) Round 22: K18, (yo, k6) x 2, yo, k3. (36 sts) Round 23: K18, (yo, DS, k3) x 2, yo, DS. (33 sts) Round 24: (Yo, k21, (yo, k6) x 2). (36 sts) Round 25: (Yo, DS, k18, (yo, DS, k3) x 2). (33 sts) Round 26: (K3, yo, k21, yo, k6, yo, k3). (36 sts) Round 27: (K3, yo, DS, k18, yo, DS, k3, yo, DS). (33 sts) Round 28: (Yo, k6, yo, k21, yo, k6). (36 sts) Round 29: (Yo, DS, k3, yo, DS, k18, yo, DS, k3). (33 sts) Round 30: (K3, yo, k6, yo, k21, yo, k3). (36 sts) Round 31: (K3, yo, DS) x 2, k18, yo, DS). (33 sts) Round 32: (Yo, k6) x 2, yo, k21). (36 sts) Round 33: (Yo, DS, k3) x 2, yo, DS, k18). (33 sts) Round 34: (K3, (yo, k6) x 2, yo, k18). (36 sts) Round 35: (K3, yo, DS) x3, k15). (33 sts) Round 36: (K6, yo) x 3, k15). (36 sts) Round 37: (K6, (yo, DS, k3) x 2, yo, DS, k12). (33 sts) Round 38: (K9, (yo, k6) x 2, yo, k12). (36 sts) Round 39: (K9, (yo, DS, k3) x 2, yo, DS, k9). (33 sts) Round 40: (K12, (yo, k6) x 2, yo, k9). (36 sts) Round 41: (K12, (yo, DS, k3) x 2, yo, DS, k6). (33 sts) Round 42: (K15, (yo, k6) x 3). (36 sts) Round 43: (K15, (yo, DS, k3) x3). (33 sts) Round 44: (K18, (yo, k6) x 2, yo, k3). (36 sts) Round 45: (K18, (yo, DS, k3) x 2, yo, DS). (33 sts)
Large (72 stitch) Chart
6 stitches for the instep. Work stitches 1-48 once for the instep, twice for the lf
Large Stitch Pattern - Repeat Rounds 28-53 Round 1: Knit. (36 sts) Round 2: Yo, k36. (37 sts) Round 3: Yo, DS, k33. (36 sts) Round 4: K3, yo, k33. (37 sts) Round 5: K3, yo, DS, k30. (36 sts) Round 6: Yo, k6, yo, k30. (38 sts) Round 7: Yo, DS, k3, yo, DS, k27. (36 sts) Round 8: K3, yo, k6, yo, k27. (38 sts) Round 9: (K3, yo, DS) x 2, k24. (36 sts) Round 10: (Yo, k6) x 2, yo, k24. (39 sts) Round 11: (Yo, DS, k3) x 2, yo, DS, k21. (36 sts) Round 12: K3, (yo, k6) x 2, yo, k21. (39 sts) Round 13: (K3, yo, DS) x3, k18. (36 sts) Round 14: (K6, yo) x3, k18. (39 sts) Round 15: K6, (yo, DS, k3) x2, yo, DS, k15. (36 sts) Round 16: K9, (yo, k6) x 2, yo, k15. (39 sts) Round 17: K9, (yo, DS, k3)x 2, yo, DS, k12. (36 sts) Round 18: K12, (yo, k6) x 2, yo, k12. (39 sts)) Round 19: K12, (yo, DS, k3) x 2, yo, DS, k9. (36 sts) Round 20: K15, (yo, k6) x 2, yo, k9. (39 sts) Round 21: K15, (yo, DS, k3) x 2, yo, DS, k6. (36 sts) Round 22: K18, (yo, k6) x 3. (39 sts) Round 23: K18, (yo, DS, k3) x 3. (36 sts) Round 24: K21, (yo, k6) x 2, yo, k3. (39 sts) Round 25: K21, (yo, DS, k3)x2, yo, DS. (36 sts) Round 26: K24, (yo, k6) x 2. (38 sts) Round 27: K24, (yo, DS, k3) x 2. (36 sts) Round 28: (Yo, k27, yo, k6, yo, k3). (39 sts) Round 29: (Yo, DS, k24, yo, DS, k3, yo, DS). (36 sts) Round 30: (K3, yo, k27, yo, k6). (38 sts) Round 31: (K3, yo, DS, k24, yo, DS, k3). (36 sts) Round 32: (Yo, k6, yo, k27, yo, k3). (39 sts) Round 33: (Yo, DS, k3, yo, DS, k24, yo, DS). (36 sts) Round 34: (K3, yo, k6, yo, k27). (38 sts) Round 35: (K3, yo, DS) x 2, k24). (36 sts) Round 36: (Yo, k6) x 2, yo, k24). (39 sts) Round 37: (Yo, DS, k3) x 2, yo, DS, k21). (36 sts) Round 38: (K3, (yo, k6) x 2, yo, k21). (39 sts) Round 39: K3, yo, DS) x 3, k18). (36 sts) Round 40: (K6, yo) x 3, k18). (39 sts) Round 41: (K6, (yo, DS, k3) x2, yo, DS, k15). (36 sts) Round 42: (K9, (yo, k6) x 2, yo, k15). (39 sts) Round 43: (K9, (yo, DS, k3) x 2, yo, DS, k12). (36 sts) Round 44: (K12, (yo, k6) x 2, yo, k12). (39 sts) Round 45: (K12, (yo, DS, k3) x 2, yo, DS, k9). (36 sts) Round 46: (K15, (yo, k6) x 2, yo, k9). (39 sts) Round 47: (K15, yo, DS, k3, yo, DS, k2, yo, DS, k6). (3 Round 48: (K18, (yo, k6) x 3). (39 sts) Round 49: (K18, (yo, DS, k3) x3). (36 sts) Round 50: (K21, (yo, k6) x 2, yo, k3). (39 sts) Round 51: (K21, (yo, DS, k3) x2, yo, DS). (36 sts) Round 52: (K24, (yo, k6) x 2). (38 sts) Round 53: (K24, (yo, DS, k3) x2). (36 sts) Since everyone's feet are a bit different, and people have their own preference for how a sock should fit, here's some suggestions for getting the best individual fit for you. 1)TRYTHEM ON ASYOU GO! I can't think of anything worse than frogging a complete sock because it doesn't fit. 2)Toes If you prefer a wider toe, cast on more stitches. If you are doing an EOP toe, you will probably want to do several rounds in the slip stitch pattern after you have completed your increases. are some links for asymmetrical toes - some people find these more comfortable http://knitbettersocks.blogspot.com/2012/03/asymmetric-wedge-toe.html http://twistedpdx.com/2010/07/27/asymmetric-anatomical-toes/ 3) Ease The standard ease for a sock is 10% negative ease - that means a wellfitting sock will be 10% smaller than your foot. So if your gauge is 8 stitches/inch and your foot circumference is 9 inches, a sock with no negative ease would have 72 stitches. 10% negative ease would be 65 stitches (72-10%). Since lace patterns are stretchier I would use a few less stitches - say 60 - 63 depending on the lace pattern. 4) When to start the heel - I start my heel turn when the sock reaches the ball of my heel, slightly stretched. 5) Length of heel turn - If you wrap and turn fewer stitches than are called for in the pattern, the base of your heel will be shorter and wider. If you wrap and turn more stitches you will make the heel longer and narrower. I usually decide how many stitches to wrapby trying it on. I've found that I get the best fit if the wrapped stitch section of the heel comes just a smidge past my heel. When you have finished knitting up all of the gusset stitches it will tighten up the heel too. That way I get a nice snug fitting sock that doesn't scrunch up my toes. 6) Length of heel flap - If you like a longer heel flap, add more stitches to the gusset section before you start the heel turn. If you are doing a slip stitch heel you need to add more than if you are doing a stockinette heel flap. The slip stitches tighten the fabric vertically, so you need to knit more rows to achieve the same length as a stockinette heel. 7) Leg - Ilike a nice firm fabric for the foot of my sock, and prefer a bit more stretch when it comes to the leg. So I usually go up a needle size (or 2) when I begin the leg.
Links and Tips
Tip 1: I found my socks were wearing out where the bottom of slip stitch heel turn meets the sole. I've started working the sole in an eye of partridge stitch about 2" before I'm ready to start the heel turn. Round 1: Slip1, knit 1, repeat to last sole stitch Round 2: knit Round 3: knit 1, Slip 1, repeat to last sole stitch Round 4: knit Tip 2: If you knit a row or 2 of plain stockinette stitch before you bind off, your cuffs will last longer. The stockinette stitch will "roll" slightly. This will keep the same section of yarn from always being in contact with your leg when you'rewearing yoursocks. Tip 3: My favorite stitch marker for sock knitting is just a length of cotton thread (l use button thread). I loop it over the needle, and pass the working yarn in front every few rounds to weave it in. I never have to worry about it popping off (and being eaten by a dog!), and if I have to frog back a few rounds, it stays in place.
Judy's Magic Cast on - knitty.com/ISSUEspring06/FEATmagiccaston Wrapping and Turning - knitting.wikia.com/wiki/Wrap_and_turn Stretchy Bind Offs - knitty.com/ISSUEss11/FEATinterlock knitty.com/ISSUEfall09/FEATjssbo knitty.com/SSUEsummer06/FEATsum06TTl
