Tako the Hawaiian Bobtail Squid
by Cate Carter-Evans Quite possibly the cutest member of the cephalopod family, Tako is a sweet and mellow little squid. He's so mellow, in fact, that he doesn't mind that his name is used to describe both octopus and squid in Hawaiian. Hawaiian bobtail squid are gorgeous, iridescent little creatures that would fit in the palm of your hand. Tako is quite a bit bigger than the real thing, but he's just the right size for snuggling. Infinite Twist's Cosmos batts and yarn include glittery Angelina fiber to provide a hint of under-sea sparkle. Please note that Tako is for decorative purposes only and is not a toy. The plastic safety eyes used on this project are a choking hazard for small children.
About this Pattern
Skill Level: Intermediate. skills Needed: Basic knitting skills, plus increases (m1, kfb, kfbf), decreases (ssk, k2tog), i-cord. Finished Size: Main body Main body 18in / 45cm Yarn: 200 yards Infinite Twist Cosmos Handspun, or any hand-spun yarn with 7.5 wpi / 18 wraps over 5cm). Samples shown in Cosmos Handspun in Turquoise (blue sample), and handspun Infinite Twist Orbit Merino in Frost on the Pumpkin (orange sample).
Needles:
4.5mm / Us size 7 dpns, two sets (10 needles total). 3.75mm / Us size 5, any needle type. 3.25mm / Us size 3, any needle type. Gauge: 15 sts and 24 rows over 4in / 10cm on 4.5mm / Us size 7 needles.
Notions:
10oz / 300g wool stuffing for mantle and head. loz / 33g wool roving for tentacle stuffing. Two (2) 24mm plastic safety eyes, dark brown recommended. Stitch markers, 2 different colors recommended. Yarn needle.
Abbreviations
Dpn(s): Double-pointed needle(s) K: Knit Kfb: Knit into the front of the stitch, and then the back of the stitch. — increases 1 st Kfbf: Knit into the front of the stitch, then the back, then into the front again. — increases 2sts M1R: Make one right-leaning stitch by picking up a ladder between two stitches, twisting it so the right leg is on top, and knitting into it— increases 1 st M1L: Make one left-leaning stitch by picking up a ladder between two stitches, twisting it so the left leg is on top, and knitting into it — increases I st P: Purl P2tog: Purl 2 sts together. — 1 st decreased btbl: Purl 2 sts together through the back loop. - 1 st decreasec Ssk: Slip 1 st knitwise, slip 1 more st, knit the slipped sts through the front from the righthand needle. - 1 st decreased st(s): Stitch(es) St St: Stockinette (stocking) stitch - in the round, knit all rounds; working flat, knit RS rows, purlwsrows Twk: Twin wrap knit. With right side facing, insert the tip of the right needle into the purl bump of the stitch directly below the one you're working (on left needle). Slip stitch to the left needle without twisting it. Twp: Twin wrap purl. with yarn in front, slip 1 st purlwise to right needle, insert left needle into the purl bump of the stitch directly below the one you're working (on right needle) and purl it. Slip the twin stitch you just created and its host-stitch to the left needle.
@ 2013, 2014 infinite twist. For personal, non-commercial use only. Visit infinitetwist.com for more patterns, tutorials, and knitting kits. Pattern Feedback appreciated! E-mail info@infinitetwist.com
Mantle
Cast on 4 sts, and join to knit in the round. Place a marker to indicate the beginning of the round. Round 1: Kfb 4 times. 8 sts. Round 2: Kfb 8 times. 16 sts. Round 3: K. Round 4: [K1, kfb] 8 times. 24 sts. Round 5: K. Round 6: [k2, kfb] 8 times. 32 sts. Rounds 7-8: K. Round 9: [K3, kfb] 8 times. 40 sts. Rounds 10-12: K. Round 13: [K4, kfb] 8 times. 48 sts. Rounds 14-18: K. Round 19: [K5, kfb] 8 times. 56 sts. Rounds 20-35: K. Round 36: [K5, k2tog] 8 times. 48 sts. Rounds 37-47: K. Round 48: [K4, ssk, k12, k2tog, k4] twice. 44 sts. Rounds 49-53: K. Round 54: [K4, ssk, k10, k2tog, k4] twice. 40 sts. Round 55: K.
Next, you'll work the mantle shaping back and forth with shadow-wrap (twp and twk) short rows. To set up, place a second marker between stitches 20 and 21. You should now have a marker at the beginning of the round, 20 stitches, a second marker, and another 20 stitches.You may want to use two different-colored markers to distinguish their purpose. Row 1 (Rs): Knit until 2 sts remain before the second marker; twk. Row 2 (ws): Purl until 2 sts remain before the first marker; twp. Row 3: K until 4 sts rem; twk. Row 4: P until 4 sts rem; twp. Row 5: K until 6 sts rem; twk. Row 6: P until 6 sts rem; twp. Row 7: K until 8 sts rem; twk. Row 8: P until 8 sts rem; twp. Row 9: Knit to second marker, working wraps together with their host stitc Row 1 (Rs): Knit until 2 sts remain before the first marker; twk. Row 2 (ws): Purl until 2 sts remain before the second marker; twp. Row 3: K until 4 sts rem; twk. Row 4: P until 4 sts rem; twp. Row 5: K until 6 sts rem; twk. Row 6: P until 6 sts rem; twp. Row 7: K until 8 sts rem; twk. Row 8: P until 8 sts rem; twp. Row 9: Knit to first marker, working wraps together with their host stitches. Resume knitting in the round. You will encounter more pairs of wraps and host stitches. Work them together as established. Round 56: [K10, m1R, k10] twice. 42 sts. Round 57: P. Round 58: [K10, m1R, kl, m1L, k10] twice. 46 sts. Round 59: P. Cast off all stitches knitwise.
Head and short tentacles
Cast on 40, and join to knit in the round. Place a marker to indicate the beginning of the round. Rounds 1-8: K. Round 9: [K1, m1L, k9, m1R] 4 times. 48 sts. Rounds 10-12: K. Round 13: [K1, m1L, k11, m1R] 4 times. 56 sts. Rounds 14-16: K. Round 17: [K2tog, k9, ssk, k1] 4 times. 48 sts. Rounds 18-20: K. Round 21: [K2tog, k7, ssk, k1] 4 times. 40 sts. Rounds 22-24: K Round 25: [K2tog, k5, ssk, k1] 4 times. 32 sts. Rounds 26-29: K Round 30: M1, k3, [M1R, k1, m1L, k3] 7 times, m1R, k1. 48 sts
Underbelly
Cast on 4 sts and join to knit in the round. Place a marker to indicate the beginning of the round. Round 1: Kfb 4 times. 8 sts. Round 2: Kfb 8 times. 16 sts. Round 3: K. Round 4: [K1, kfb] 8 times. 24 sts. Round 5: K. Round 6: [K2, kfb] 8 times. 32 sts. Round 7: [K3, kfb] 8 times. 40 sts. Round 8: [K4, kfb] 8 times. 48 sts.
Tentacles
Starting with the next stitch to be worked, slip 6 sts from the underbelly section onto a dpn. Continuing with the same dpn, slip 6 sts from the head. You should now have 12 stitches total, with the underbelly stitches on the right, and be starting on the Rs, with yarn from the head sts in the working position. Rounds 1-3: K. Round 4: K8, k2tog, k2. 11 sts Rounds 5-7: K Round 8: K7, k2tog, k2. 10 sts. Rounds 9-11: K Round 12: K7, k2tog, kl. 9 sts. Rounds 13-15: K. Round 16: K6, k2tog, kl. 8 sts. Rounds 17-19: K. Round 20: K5, k2tog, kl. 7 sts. Rounds 21-23: K. Round 24: K4, k2tog, kl. 6 sts. Row 25 (Rs): Set up to work as i-cord by slipping just-worked stitch onto an empty needle. K5 using the same needle so you now have 6 sts on one dpn. Rows 26-27: Work even. Row 28: K4, k2tog. 5 sts. Rows 29-31: Work even. Row 32: K3, k2tog. 4 sts. Rows 33-35: Work even. Break yarn, pass tail through allive stitches. Pass yarn through a second time, and bury the end inside the tentacle. Repeat for seven remaining tentacles.
Eyelids
Make four. Using Us 3 / 3.25mm needles, cast on 8 sts. Row 1 (RS): K. Row 2 (wS): P. Row 3: Ssk, k4, k2tog. 6 sts. Row 4: P2tog, p2, p2togtbl. 4 sts. Cast off all stitches.
Wings
Make two. Using Us size 5 / 3.75mm needles, cast on 14 sts. Row 1 (Rs) : [Kl, p1] 6 times, k2tog. 13 sts. Row 2 (ws) : [K1, p1] 6 times, kfb. 14 sts. Row 3: [P1, k1] 6 times, k2tog. 13 sts. Row 4: [P1, kl] 6 times, kfb. 14 sts. Row 5: [K1, pl] 6 times, k2tog. 13 sts. Row 6: [Kl, pl] 6 times, kl. Row 7: [K1, p1] 5 times, kl, k2tog. 12 sts. Row 8: [P1, kl] 6 times. Row 9: [K1, p1] 5 times, k2tog. 11 sts. Row 10: [K1, pl] 5 times, kl. Row 11: [K1, pl] 4 times, kl, k2tog. 10 sts. Row 12: [P1, k1] 4 times, k2tog. 9 sts. Row 13: [P1, kl] 3 times, p1, k2tog. 8 sts. Row 14: Ssk, [kl, pl] twice, k2tog. 6 sts. Row 15: [K1, p1] 3 times.
Cast off all stitches knitwise. weave in end.
Finishing
Steam block all pieces using your iron's wool setting and maximum steam output (don't weave in the ends yet). Hold the iron about %in / 1cm above the surface of your knitted pieces, and project as much steam as possible at your knitted pieces. If your iron produces insufficient steam, you can also wet block your knitted pieces.
Figure 1
Figure 2
Making Up
Short Tentacles
Take a 10in / 25cm length of roving and divide lengthwise into 8 even sections (figure 1). Fold and twist as shown (figure 2) to hold fibers together. Using a chopstick or dpns, stuff the roving into each of the 8 tentacles. Using a yarn needle and the ends left from joining yarn to knit each tentacle, sew up the holes in between the tentacles (figure 3). When holes are sewn up, weave in the end of the yarn and clip any excess, or simply tie in a knot and leave the ends dangling on the inside. Affix eyes on opposite sides of the head, and fill head with stuffing (figure 4).
Figure 3
Figure 4
Head
Stitch head closed (figures 5 - 6), starting with lin / 2.5cm in the center, and then folding the sides down to make an oblong shape.
Figure 5
Figure 6
Eyelids
Lay out the eyelid pieces with the cast-on edges facing each other. Stitch eyelid corners to each other (1/4in / 0.5 cm on each side) using the tails from the cast-on. Leave all tails in place, and steam block (figure 7). Using the remaining tails on the eyelids, stitch them over the safety eyes, tucking the top and bottom edges under, and hide any remaining ends inside (figure 8) .
Figure 7
Figure 8 @ 2013, 2014 infinite twist. For personal, non-commercial use only. Visit infinitetwist.com for more patterns, tutorials, and knitting kits. Pattern Feedback appreciated! E-mail info@infinitetwist.com
Mantle
Stuff mantle (figure 9). Pin stuffed head onto mantle, centering the top and bottom points of the mantle between the eyes. If the head is wobbly, add more stuffing to the mantle (figure 10). Sew the mantle onto the head, hiding your stitches in the ditch between the first two purl rows. Sew another row of stitches through the bound-off edge and weave in any remaining ends.
Figure 9
Figure 11
Figure 10
Figure 12
Fins
Sew fins onto mantle by folding edge of fin down Vin / 0.5cm, and sewing parallel to rows of knit stitches (figure 1l), horizontally aligned with the eyes, and positioned as shown (figure 12).
