More of a recipe than a pattern - the sample pictured was knit from madeline tosh merino light in Ginger on 3.25 mm double point needles. Any DK or worsted weight yarn with a tight twist (to emphasize the cable) works well on the appropriate size needles. The headband can be worked on straight needles, either with a cable needle or cabling without a needle; I used three 6 inch double pointed needles, with the 'extra' needle serving to hold the stitches in front or back as the simple pattern requires.
Using cable or long tail cast-on, cast on 8 stitches. Row 1 Knit 8 stitches, turn. Row 2 Slip first stitch purlwise, purl 7, turn. Row 3 Slip first stitch purlwise. Slip next two stitches to cable needle and hold in front of work; knit next two stitches or left needle, then knit two stitches from cable needle. Knit 3 and turn. Row 4Repeat Row 2 Row 5 Slip first stitch purlwise. Knit 2. Slip next two stitches to cable needle and hold in back of work. Knit next two stitches from left needle, then knit two stitches from cable needle. Knit 1 and turn. Row6RepeatRow2 Repeat rows 3-6 until work measure approximately 18 inches (or until it fits around your head when slightly stretched), ending with a wrong side row (purl across). Sew or graft ends together as neatly as possible.
Explanation of symbols
4 3 2 1 knit purl 7 slip stitch purlwise cable 4 front (C4F): Slip two stitches to cable needle or extra double point and hold in front of work. Knit next two stitches on the main needle, then knit the two stiches from the cable needle. cable 4 back (C4B): Slip two stitches to cable needle or extra double point and hold in back of work. Knit next two stitches on the main needle, then knit the two stiches from the cable needle.
