c. 2015 by Margaret Maclnnis
MATERIALS
Yarn 45 g aran weight—I used Vanna's Choice. Needles: I use 4.5 mm or Us 7 needles for a gauge of 16 st in 4 inches/10 cm in garter stitch Hook: 4.5 mm or US G Yarn Needle Stitch markers: 4
STITCH KEY AND ABBREVIATIONS
K2tog: knit 2 stitches together; right leaning decrease of one Ssk: slip as stitch as if to knit it, slip another, slide the left hand needle into the front of both sts and simultaneously knit them together through the back; left leaning decrease of one LST: Left special slip twist: interesting stitch that sounds harder to do than it is. Start by inserting needle into second stitch from the BACK, and knit it by pulling a loop through as normal, but don't drop the stitch off the needle. With the pulled through loop still on the right needle, DiP the right needle tip into the first stitch on the left needle as if to purl it, and SLIP that stitch to the right needle—while DROPPING the second stitch off. As I said, try it, sounds harder than it is. You will get a nicely crossed stitch with the top one slipped and elongated a little. RST: Right special slip twist: the easy way—-slip next st to cable needle, hold in back. Slip next st purlwise to right needle, knit the st from the cable needle. The harder but quicker way—-poke right needle as if to purl into second st, twist your wrist and the needle, knit into the first st, pull the loop up between both needles, and drop the 1't st while allowing the second st to remain on the needle. PM: place stitch marker Yo: yarn over the needle (aka yrn in English knitting), an increase of one that makes a nice decorative hole (p)Vinc: knit (or purl if indicated) into the axis or stitch on the row below (if it's got a purl bump on it, you use that. If it's got a V shape base, use the right side of that). Then knit (or purl) the stitch itself. An increaseof one. M1: make one stitch by using the crossbar between two stitches (the stitch just made on the right, and the stitch coming up on the left). This does not 'use' a stitch. Pick the crossbar up with the tip of your right needle, put it on your left needle, and knit into the back of it. P2tog: purl two stitches together Sl1-k2tog-psso: slip one stitch as if to purl, k next 2 stitches together, pass the slipped stitch over the k2tog stitch. A double decrease. SI2-k1-p2sso: slip two sts tog as if to knit them, k1, pass two slipped sts over the knit st as a unit. A centered, double decrease. Yf: yarn forward Yb: yarn back
INSTRUCTIONS
Cast on 33 sts Rows 1-3: knit Note: slip stitches as if to purl unless otherwise noted. Please also note that when increasing with Vinc/pVinc, that uses a stitch. Work the increase AND the stitch itself. Row 4: WS k2, PM, (Vinc, p2, pVinc, p1) ×2, (k2, p2, pVinc, p1)×2, (Vinc, p2, pVinc, p1) x1, k2, PM, k2 (41 sts) Row 5: RS k2, p2, (LST, k3, p2) x 2, (RST, sl 1, LST), p2, (k3, RST, p2) x 2, k2 Warning: When purling through the 5 st twist section, be careful to separate the two stitches of the twists. Row 6: WS k2, (k2, p5) x 5, k4 Row 7: RS k2, p2, (k1, LST, k2, p2) x 2, (sl 1, k1, sl 1, k1, sl 1), p2, (k2, RST, k1, p2) x 2, k2 Row 8: As Row 6 ow 9: k2, p2, (k2, LST, k1, p2) x 2, (sl 1, k1, sl 1, k1, sl 1), p2, (k1, RST, k2, p2) x 2, k2 Row 10: As Row 6 Row 11: k2, p2, (k3, LST, p2) x 2, (sl 1, k1, sl 1, k1, sl 1), (p2, RST, k3) x 2, p2, k2 Row 12: As Row 6 Rows 13-20: Rep Rows 5-12 Rows 13-20: Rep Rows 5-12 Row 21: RS k2, p2, (LST, k3), PM, p2, ssk, k1, k2tog, p3, sl 1, k1, sl 1, p3, ssk, k1, k2tog, p2, PM, (k3, RST), p2, k2 (37sts) Row 22: WS k2, (k2, p5), k2, (p3, k3) twice, p3, k2, (p5, k2), k2 Row 23: Note: the keep yf' and keep yb' are intended to make small diagonal lines, which subsequently form smaller holes' in Row 24 than a traditional yo would. k2, p2, (k1, LST, k2), p2, \*keep yf, sl2-k1- p2sso, keep yb\*, p3, sl 1, k1, sl 1, p3, rep \* to \*, p2, (k2, RST, k1), p2, k2 Row 24: Note: ensure you work the lines of yo that were formed when yb/yf were kept in Row 23. Note: If you wish to 'purl' over the tips of the fence boards, just for this row, might make them a little more peaky. k2, (k2, p5), (k8, p3, k8), (p5, k2), k2 Row 25: k2, p2,(k2, LST, k1), p2tog, p6, k1, (yo, k1) x 2, p6, p2tog, (k1, RST, k2), p2, k2 (37 sts) Row 26: k2, (k2, p5), (k7, p5, k7), (p5, k2), k2 RS k2, p2, (k3, LST), (p2tog, p5, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, p5, p2tog), (RST, k3), p2, k2 (37 sts Row 28: WS k2, (k2, p5), (k6, p7, k6), (p5, k2), k2 Row 29: k2, p2, (LST, k3), (p2tog, p4, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, p4, p2tog), (k3, RST), p2, k: Row 30: k2, (k2, p5), (k5, p9, k5), (p5, k2), k2 (37 sts) 1: k2, p2, (k1, LST, k2), (p2tog, p3, k4, yo, k1, yo, k4, p3, p2tog), (k2, RST, k1), p2, k2 Row 32: k2, (k2, p5), (k4, p11, k4), (p5, k2), k2 (37 sts) Row 34: k2, (k2, p5), (k3, p13, k3), (p5, k2), k2 Row 35: k2, p2, (k3, LST), (p3, ssk, k4, yo, k1, yo, k4, k2tog, p3), (RST, k3), p2, k2 Row 36: rep Row 34
