Biophilia
Description
Biophilia is a term first used by psychologist Erich Fromm, and developed by biologist E. O Wilson to describe a hypothetically innate human tendency to feel an emotional attachment to the natural world. The idea that human wellbeing is utterly dependent upon our positive interactions with the natural world and its biological diversity makes conservation of the planet's ecological systems imperative. This decades old theory is even more relevant today as we continue to transform the planet in our quest for perpetual economic growth. Regardless of whether the tendency for biophilia exists or not, human dependence upon the natural world and its complex ecosystems is a fundamental truth, and yet we continue to plunder the Earth's resources, and foul the waterways and seas.
Size 39 cm (15 inches) deep at centre and 195 cm (77 inches) wide around the curve of the top edge. This shawl, Biophilia, is a free pattern from me to you, and yet it is not free. I ask that you consider your relationship with the natural world around you, and how your activities impact upon it. Is there something you can do to reverse environmental degradation from your home, in your community? I ask that you actively do something, and continue to do something that benefits the environment. To be effective, conservation and protection of the Earth's resources and ecosystems must be adopted in the home, and then spread outwards through workplaces, schools, boardrooms, and government departments via policy makers, educators, parents, conservationists, writers, idealists, you and me. From the home to the sea - while environmental degradation may seem an insurmountable by-product of human activity - together we are many. Together we are so many, many people - ourselves a huge, diverse, and imaginative repository of information, solutions and actions that can benefit the environment, our relationship to it, and ultimately our own wellbeing. Biophilia is a top-down crescent shaped shawl that represents my own connection to and affection for the natural environment. The motifs represent filament strands of entangled seaweed, billowing in the currents of the rocky shore. Beads are worked at the edge, and drip from each picot point, as if it were just now plucked from the briny ocean depths.
Materials
Vintage Purls Sock, 384 metres per 100 gm; Colour: Songs of the Sea. 2 skeins. The sample shawl illustrated above used approximately 495 metres (541 yards) of fingering weight yarn. (and approx 655 metres of laceweight for the larger size aswritten) Beads: Approximately 245 size 6 seed beads. (270 for larger size) Recommended Needle Size 4 mm (Us6) circular needle 100 cm (40 inches) or longer. .75 mm crochet hook, for beading.
Gauge
20 sts / 30 rows per 10 cm (4 inches) with 4mm (US6) needles over stocking stitch.
Pattern Notes and Techniques
This shawl begins with a stretchy garter tab. Throughout the shawl 2 sts are increased at each edge on RS rows (4 in total). One stitch is increased at each edge on WS rows (2 in total). Therefore every second row 6 extra stitches are made through side increases. Knit the edge stitches loosely. Lifted Increase: Extra increases are included throughout the stocking stitch section of the shawl to aid its crescent shape.Theright liftedincreaseisworkedon the stitch immediatelybelow the next stitch on theleft needle.Lift the right leg of that stitch onto the left needle and knit it. Right and Left Twists: RT and LT are mock cables (they also look like decreases) performed on two stitches, and results in two stitches once executed. They look very much like a right and left leaning decrease (k2tog and SSK). There are a number of way of executing right and left twists, but I urge you to perform them in the way described here so they look like an extension of the right and left leaning decreases moving across the surface of the fabric. Right Twist: k2tog, leave stitches on left needle, k into first st again and slide both sts off needle. Left Twist: slip 2 stitches individually knitwise, put back on left needle so the back legs of the stitches are now in front. k through the back loop of the 2nd stitch and leave on left needle, k2tog through back loop and slide off the needle. To place beads, use a .75mm crochet hook and insert hook through hole in bead. Slip the required stitch off the left needle and onto hook, slide the bead off the hook and onto the stitch, replace the stitch back onto the left needle and knit it. On a k2tog decrease place the bead on the 2nd st on LH needle. For an ssk decrease, place the bead on the 1st stitch on LH needle. How to work nupps: Nupps must be worked loosely on RS rows so that the resulting 7 loops can be successfully purled together on the following WS row. See the abbreviations for the exact technique. Double and quadruple yarn overs. When encountering a double yo on the following WS row, knit the first loop, and purl the second. For the quadruple yarn over, work the stitches in this order on the following WS row: k, p, k, p. Working from the Charts The shawl has two garter edge stitches, plus one stitch which is increased into, which are not included in the charts. Work the edges as follows on all Rs (odd numbered) rows: k2, (k1, yo, k1) into one stitch, then work as per chart to the last 3 sts, (k1, yo, k1) into one stitch, k2. Workthe edges as follows on all ws rows:K2,yo(to create a stitch), then purl to the last 2 sts, yo, k2. The yo created on WS rows is the stitch that is used to make two extra stitches onRSrows. Each RS row starts at the right edge of the chart, work to the outlined repeat section, work the repeat section as many times as instructed, then continue on and work the stitches to the left of the repeat section. Throughout the charts consecutive knit stitch counts are given for your convenience.These numbers represent the number of consecutive knit stitches from one object in the chart to any other object, such as a stitch symbol or bold pattern repeat line. WS rows are not charted. See chart directions below for how to work wS rows.
Abbreviations
yo: yarn over needle to make a stitch. k2tog: knit 2 sts together. ssk: slip 2 sts individually knitwise, slip back to LH needle and knit 2 together through back loop. sk2p: slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over. Nupp: all worked into one stitch - (k1, yo) 3 times, k1 once more. 1-7 nupp) Place Bead: place a bead on this stitch - see pattern notes for details when working decreases. Left Twist: slip 2 sts individually knitwise, put back on LH needle so back legs of sts are in front. k through back loop of the 2nd st and leave on LH needle, k2 tog through back loop and slide both off needle. Right Twist: k2tog leaving sts on LH needle, knit into 1st st again and slide both off needle. 2/1 RC: slip 1 st to cable needle (cn) and hold in back, k2, k1 from cn. 2/1 Lc: sl 2 sts to cn and hold in front, k1, k2 from cn. 2/2 RC: sl 2 sts to cn and hold in back, k2, k2 from cn. 2/2 Lc: sl 2 sts to cn and hold in front, k2, k2 from cn. Start picot: make a picot point - cast on 3 sts, place bead on 3rd st, cast off the 3 sts. Consecutive stitch count: the number of consecutive knit sts from one object in the chart to any other object, including a repeat box line.
Directions
Garter Tab
Using 4mm needle cast on 2 sts. Knit 31 rows. You should have 15 garter ridges. Without turning work after 31st row, rotate work clockwise to pick up and knit along the long garter edge as follows, carefully untwisting the tab as you go: yo, pick up and knit a stitch in the second ridge along from where you are, skipping the ridge immediately below the 2 stitches already on the needle. \*yo, skip ridge, pick up and knit 1 st in next ridge encountered, repeat from \* until you have 16 sts on right needle, yo, pick up two sts at the remaining short end. 19 sts (you should have a yo immediately above the skipped garter ridges) Next Row: (RS) k2, \*(k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k1. Repeat from \* until the last 3 sts. (K1, yo, k1) into next st, k2. 35 sts. (the "k1, yo, k1" sequence is worked into the yo's of the previousrow) Next Row (Ws): k2, yo, purl to last 2 sts, yo, k2. 37 sts. End of Garter Tab setup. Row 1 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into one stitch, k to last 3 stitches (k1, yo, k1) into one stitch, k2. 41 sts. Row 2 (Ws): k2, yo, purl to last 2 sts, yo, k2. 43 sts Rows 3-10: Repeat row 1 and 2 until 8 more rows have beencompleted.67sts
1st Lifted Increase Row
Row 11 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into one stitch, k2, \*work Lifted Increase, k3, repeat from \* eighteen times until 5 sts remain, work lifted increase, k2 (k1, yo, k1) into one stitch, k2. (20 extra increases) 91 sts. (note: after working the lifted increase, the very next st on the left hand needle is included in the k3 above) Rows 12-24: Beginning and ending with a WS row, work edge increases only, as set in rows 1 and 2. 129 sts
2nd Lifted Increase Row
Row 25 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into one stitch, k9, \*work Lifted Increase, k5, repeat from \* twenty times until 12 sts remain, work lifted increase, k9 (k1, yo, k1) into one stitch, k2. (22 extra increases). 155 sts. Rows 26-44: Beginning and ending with a WS row, work edge increases onlv, as set in row 1 and 2. 211 sts End of Stocking Stitch section. Unless you wish to make a larger shawl, skip ahead to the charted lace section, using either the charts or written directions. [Note for working a larger shawl or if using laceweight yarn (you will need extra yarn and beads) If you wish to make a larger shawl, or are using laceweight yarn work an extra 10 rows, working RS and wS edge increases as set in rows 1 and 2. 241 sts (in the following row you are increasing only one stitch at eachedge,instead of the usual 2) Next row (Rs) k2, (k1, p1) into one stitch, knit to last 3 sts. (k1, p1) into one stitch, k2. 243 sts Next Row (WS), k2, yo, purl to last 2 sts, yo, k2. 245 sts (In chart Ayouwill beworking the repeat box 14 times instead of 12, and so forth for the remaining charts) End of extended Stocking Stitch section. Skip ahead to the charts. (lf you wish to make an even larger shawl, or make your own mods, you will need to increase the stocking stitch section while continuing to work the edge increases. Tofit chartA,yourstitchcountneedstobeamultipleof17plus 7. (6 stitches for the edges and 1 for the single stitch in very first rowoutside therepeatbox of chart A.)You could work a third row of lifted increases, ensuring that your stitch count beforeyou startchart Aisamultipleof17plus7] Work the Charts as follows
Chart A
Row 1 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, work row 1 from right to left, working outlined repeat section 12 times, then work to end of chart, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2. Row 2 (Ws): k2, yo, purl to last 2 sts, yo, k2. Work rows 1 to 16. 259 sts (293)
Chart B
Row 17 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, work row 17 from right to left, working outlined repeat section 14 times, then work to end of chart, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2. Row 18 (Ws): k2, yo, purl to last 2 sts, yo, k2. Work rows 17 to 34. 313 sts (347)
Chart C
Row 35 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, work row 35 from right to left, working outlined repeat section 18 times, then work to end of chart, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2. Row 36 (Ws): k2, yo, \*purl to last 2 sts, yo, k2. \*Special Note: When you reach the double yarn overs on row36and44,knitthefirstloopandpurlthesecond. Work rows 35 to 50. 361 sts (395)
Chart D
Row 51 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, work row 51 from right to left, working outlined repeat section 20 times, then work to end of chart, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2. Row 52 (Ws): k2, yo, \*\*purl to last 2 sts, yo, k2. \*\*Special Note: When you reach the quadruple yarn over on row 52 work the loops in the following order - k, p, k p. (you will be gaining two extra stitches for each quadruple yarn overmotif-40extrastsintotal) Work rows 51 to 58. 425 sts (459)
Cast off
Work the following stretchy cast off with beaded picots. (RS) Knit 2 sts, place both sts back on the left needle and \*k2 sts together through the back loop. Knit 1 st, put both sts back on left needle and repeat from \* until you reach the first 'P' symbol above the last charted row. The picot starts at this column of stitches. You should have a single stitch-slipittotheleftneedle andcast on3stitches.Place a bead on the last stitch. Cast off those three stitches as follows: k2, pass 1st st over 2nd st, [k 1, pass 1st st over 2nd st] 3 times. Work the stretchy cast off until you reach the next 'P' symbol and repeat the beaded picot procedure. Continue in this way until you reach the last picot, work that picot, and then work the stretchy cast off until one stitch remains. Cut yarn and thread through loop. Weave in ends. Wet and block, pinning out the picots above the quadruple yarn over most aggressively, so as to create a scalloped edge. Written Directions for Lace Section Repeat Section is indicated in square brackets. If you are working the largerversion,you will work additional repeats.
Chart A
Row 1 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k1, [k6, LT, RT, k7]x12, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2. Row 2 (Ws) and \*\*all wS rows: k2, yo, purl to last 2 sts, yo, k2. (\*\*except when a double yarn over or quadruple yarn over are encountered - for a double yo, knit the first loop and purl the second; for a quadruple yo work the loops in the following order - k, p, k, p [2 extra sts gained]): Row 3 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k4, [k7, slip 2 sts purlwise, k8]x12, k3, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2. Row 5 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k7, [k6, RT, LT, k7]x12, k6, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2. Row 7 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2, LT, k6, [k5, RT, k2, LT, k6]x12, k5, RT, k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2. Row 9 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2, RT, LT, k7 [k6, RT, LT, k7]x12, k6, RT, LT, k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2. Row 11: (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2, ssk, yo, 2/1RC, 2/1LC, yo, k2tog, k4, [k3, ssk, yo, 2/1RC, 2/1LC, yo, k2tog, k4]x12, k3, ssk, yo, 2/1RC, 2/1LC, yo, k2tog, k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2. Row 13 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2, [k2, ssk, yo, 2/1RC, k2, 2/1LC, yo, k2tog, k3]x14, k1, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2. Row 15 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k5, [k1, ssk, yo, 2/1RC, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, 2/1LC, yo, k2tog, k2]x14, k4, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2. (259 sts)
Chart B
Row 17 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k8, [k7, sl 2 sts purlwise, k8]x14, k7, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2. Row 19 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, RT, LT, k7, [k6, RT, LT, k7]x14, k6, RT, LT, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2. Row 21 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2, RT, k2, LT, k6, [k5, RT, k2, LT, k6]x14, k5, RT, k2, LT, k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2. Row 23 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, [k6, RT, LT, k7]x15, k6, RT, LT, k6, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2. Row 25 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k3, [k3, ssk, yo, 2/1RC, 2/1LC, yo, k2tog, k4]x16, k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2. Row 27 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k1, yo, k2tog, k3, [k2, ssk, yo, 2/1RC, k2, 2/1LC, yo, k2tog, k3]x16, k2, ssk, yo, k1, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2. Row 29 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2, 2/1LC, yo, k2tog, k2, [k1, ssk, yo, 2/1RC, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, 2/1LC, yo, k2tog, k2]x16, k1, ssk, yo, 2/1RC, k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2. Row 31 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, 2/2LC, yo, sk2p, [yo, 2/2RC, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, 2/2LC, yo, sk2p]x16, yo, 2/2RC, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2. Row 33 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k4, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k7, [k6, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k7]x16, k6, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k4, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2. (313 sts)
Chart C
Row 35 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k1, [k4, k2tog, yo, k2tog, yo, yo, ssk, yo, ssk, k5]x18, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2. Row 37 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k4, [k3, k2tog, yo, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, ssk, yo, ssk, k4]x18, k3, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2. Row 39 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, yo, ssk, k5, [k4, k2tog, yo, k4, yo, ssk, k5]x18, k4, k2tog, yo, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2. Row 41 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k4, sk2p, [k4, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k4, sk2p]x18, k4, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2. Row 43 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2, k2tog, yo, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k3, sk2p, [k3, yo, k2, k2tog, yo, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k3, sk2p]x18, k3, yo, k2, k2tog, yo, yo, ssk, k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2. Row 45 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, ssk, yo k2, k2tog, yo, nupp, nupp, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k2, sk2p, [k2, yo, k2, k2tog, yo, nupp, nupp, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k2, sk2p]x18, k2, yo, k2, k2tog, yo, nupp, nupp, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k2tog, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2. Row 47 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k1, ssk, [k1, yo, k2, k2tog, yo, nupp, k2, nupp, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k1, sk2p]x19, k1, yo, k2, k2tog, yo, nupp, k2, nupp, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k1, k2tog, k1, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2. Row 49 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k3, yo, sk2p, [yo, k2, k2tog, yo, nupp, k4, nupp, yo, ssk, k2, yo, sk2p]x20, yo, k3, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2. (395 sts)
Chart D
Row 51 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2, nupp, yo, ssk, k3, [k2, k2tog, yo, nupp, k1, k2tog with bead, yo, yo, yo, yo, ssk with bead, k1, nupp, yo, ssk, k3]x20, k2, k2tog, yo, nupp, k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2. Row 53 (Rs): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k3, yo, ssk, k1, nupp, yo, ssk, k2, [k1, k2tog, yo, nupp, k1, k2tog with bead, yo, k4, yo, ssk with bead, k1, nupp, yo, ssk, k2]x20, k1, k2tog, yo, nupp, k1, k2tog, yo, k3, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2. (425 sts) Row 55 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k7, yo, ssk, k1, nupp, yo, ssk, k1, [k2tog, yo, nupp, k1, k2tog with bead, yo, k6, yo, ssk with bead, k1, nupp, yo, ssk, k1]x20, k2tog, yo, nupp, k1, k2tog, yo, k7, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2. Row 57 (RS): k2, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k11, yo, ssk, k1, nupp, yo, sk2p, [yo, nupp, k1, k2tog with bead, yo, k8, yo, ssk with bead, k1, nupp, yo, sk2p]x20, yo, nupp, k1, k2tog, yo, k11 (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k2. Work 1 wS row, then cast off as written above in charted directions.
