Slouchy Brimmed Faux-Cable Hat (Optional Brim)
Crochet Pattern Designed by C. Beth. Copyright 2011 Pattern also at http://cbethblog. blogspot.com/2011/04/slouchy-pattern.html Like the hat, but you don't know a crochet pattern from a physics formula? No worries--I sell these hats and other styles! Feel free to check out various ones I've made on the C. Beth Crochet Facebook Page (www.facebook.com/cbethcrochet). You can email me at cbethcrochet@gmail.com if you're interested in placing a custom order.
This hat can be made with a brim..
I have included lots of photos in the tutorial below. Once you make your second or third hat in this pattern (and I hope you like it enough to make a few!), you might want to skip to page 16. I have the pattern written there in simple terms without all the extra how-to stuff. This is a pattern for crocheters of at least intermediate level. You need to know the American crochet terms/abbreviations. Google and YouTube are great resources for finding instructions for stitches you aren't comfortablewith! This pattern looks really long..and honestly, it's not a quick hat to make. But just take it one step at a time. It's fun to see it come together! Ready to start?
Slouchy Ribbed Faux Cable Hat
With orWithoutBrim Pattern by C.Beth Use worsted weight (4) or bulky (5) yarn, approximately 4-5 ounces. Solid color recommended. You may use this pattern to make hats to sell, as long as you're not mass-producing the hats. You may not sell the pattern itself or claim the design as your own. If you redistribute the pattern, please do so by referring people to the blog post at http://cbethblog.blogspot.com/2011/04/slouchy-pattern.html or to the Ravelry.com link at http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/slouchy-faux-cable-hat-optional-brim, or by distributing this printout. Thanks!
PART ONE: HAT BODY
I use an I (5.5 mm) hook The first 9 rounds are first given as a normal written pattern, and below that I've posted a chart showing those rounds. The chart helps me to visually keep track of what stitches I should be doing. It may help you too--but it's not written the way a normal crochet chart would be, so if it confuses you, just ignore it! ROUND 1: Start with a Magic Adjustable Ring. CH-3 into ring (counts as DC), then 11 DC into ring. (12 stitches.) Join at top of CH-3. For Round 2 through Round 21, start each round with a CH-2. This counts as a DC, and I'm going to call it a DC to make the pattern easier to read. ROUND 2: 2 DC in each st. (24 stitches.) Join ROUND 3: 2 DC in first st, 1 DC in next st. Repeat around. (36 stitches.) Join Now in Round 4 we will be introducing FPDC (Front Post Double Crochet) stitches. The FPDC stitches create the ribbing in the body of thehat. ROUND 4: DC in first st, FPDC in next st, increase by working both DC & FPDC in next st. Repeat this group of 4 stitches all the way around. (48 stitches.) Join. This photo shows the first few stitches of Round 4.
For Rounds 5-21, each FPDC stitch should be around an FPDC stitch from the previous round to create the ribbing. ROUND 5: Work 2 DC in one st, FPDC, DC, FPDC, DC, FPDC, DC, FPDC. Repeat this group of 9 stitches all the way around. (54 stitches.) Join. ROUND 6: DC, DC, FPDC, 2 DC in one st, FPDC, DC, FPDC, DC, FPDC. Repeat this group of 10 stitches, all the way around. (60 stitches.) Join. ROUND 7: DC, DC, FPDC, DC, DC, FPDC, 2 DC in one st, FPDC, DC, FPDC. Repeat this group of 11 stitches, all the way around. (66 stitches.) Join. ROUND 8: DC, DC, FPDC, DC, DC, FPDC, DC, DC, FPDC, 2 DC in one st, FPDC. Repeat this group of 12 stitches, all the way around. (72 stitches.) Join. ROUND 9: DC, DC, FPDC. Repeat this group of 3 stitches, all the way around. (72 stitches.) Join. CHART SHOWING ROUNDS 1-9.
| front post double crochet increase (2 stitches in one) | |||||||||||
| increase and fpdc | 2 | ||||||||||
| 1 2 | 1 | 2 | 4 | ||||||||
| 1 | 3 | ||||||||||
| 3 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 8 | ||||
| 4 | 1 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 4 5 5 | 6 7 | 7 | ||||
| 5 | 1 | 2 | 3 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 8 | 8 | 9 | ||
| 6 | 1 | 4 | 6 | 7 8 | 6 | 6 | 10 | ||||
| 7 | 1 | 2 | m | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 10 | 11 | ||
| 8 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 8 7 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 |
| 6 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 8 | 6 | 10 | 11 | 12 |
Do this pattern 6 times. Total 12 dc. Do this pattern 6 times. Total 24 dc. Do this pattem 6 times. Total 36 dc. Do this pattern 6 times. Total 48 dc. Do this pattern 6 times. Total 54 dc. Do this pattern 6 times. Total 60 dc. Do this pattern 6 times. Total 66 dc. Do this pattem 6 times. Total 72 dc. Do this pattern 6 times. Total 72 dc.
ROUNDS 10 through 21: Repeat Row 9
At this point your hat should look something like this:
PART TWO: HAT BAND
For a "one size fits most women" hat, use a J (6 mm) hook (or 1 size larger than body hook.) For a large size women's hat, use a K (6.5 mm) hook (or 2 sizes larger than body hook.) For a small size women's hat, use an I (5.5 mm) hook (or same size as body hook.) ROUND 22: CH-1 (counts as HDC.) HDC all the way around. (72 stitches.) Join. ROUND 23: CH-1 (Counts as BPHDC, Back Post Half Double Crochet.) FPHDC (Front Post HDC.) Then alternate BPHDC/FPHDC all the way around. (72 stitches.) Join. ROUND 24 through 26: Repeat Round 23 Cut yarn, pull it through, and work in ends.
PART THREE: FAUX CABLE
I used an I (5.5 mm) hook The "cable" effect that goes up the body of the hat is not a true cable. It's just a pattern of stitches that are worked over the regular hat body. To make the photos more clear, I've used a contrasting color of yarn. However, you'll use the same yarn color as you used for the body of the hat. This is the end result we're working toward:
From here on out, I'll refer to "ribs." These are the lines of FPDC stitches that make the hat ribbed. The first half of each faux cable is stitched starting at the bottom of the hat, going toward the crown, on one rib ("Rib #1".) Then a rib is skipped ("Rib #2"), and the second half of the faux cable is stitched down the next rib ("Rib #3"). Three ribs (photos with and without labels):
Okay, let's start the first faux cable! Find a rib to start with (Rib #1.) It helps to fold the hat right at that rib, with the rib at the "peak" of the fold. (See next photo.) Because the FPDC stitches are elevated, it makes it easy to work the faux cable stitches into them. Instead of putting your hook through loops at the top of the previous round of stitching, as you usually do, you'll be putting your hook under the whole FPDC stitch. Work one stitch of the faux cable around one FPDC stitch. First, join your yarn at the very bottom of the hat body, in the last FPDC stitch.
Pull the yarn through, and ch-3. This counts as a TC.
After the CH-3, working up Rib #1, complete the following stitches: DC, HDC, SC, SC, HDC, DC, TC, DC, HDC, SC, SC, HDC, DC, HDC, SC, SC, HDC, DC (19 stitches including CH-3.) This creates a scalloped effect.
The first half of the faux cable:
When you finish the last DC of the first half of the faux cable, CH-2. This counts as the first DC of the second half of the faux cable.
Now, we're going to make our way over to Rib #3 for the second half of the faux cable.
Slip stitch into Rib 3. Make sure you're slip stitching directly across from where you worked the last stitch in Rib 1. In other words, work into the same round of the hat body.
he rest of the faux cable. Turn the hat around so that you can work into Rib 3. Now that you've turned the hat around, your hook is at the "bottom" of the CH-2, and it should be at the top before you do the next stitch. Slip stitch into both chain stitches that you just completed--working your way to the top of the chain. (By the way, I've made the hat several times without doing this, and it looks fine. So if this is confusing to you, just skip this step.)
