# "Race You" Stocking Cap
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This hat was inspired by a hat I saw in a crowd shot of an alpine event during the 2010 Winter Olympic Games in Vancouver, BC. I only caught a glimpse, but I was instantly drawn to the checkerboard design. Here in Indianapolis, the racing capital of the world, we're mighty fond of checkered designs. Skills you'll need: Knitting in the round, stranded color work, decreasing, ribbing. None of these skills are particularly difficult. If you've never done stranded color work, some tips and references have been included to help you along the way. Visit my blog: For more information and discussion on ecologically and socially responsible knitting visit my blog at http://verdigrisknits.blogspot.com.
Materials:
1 skein (50g/110yd) worsted weight yarn in Main Color (MC). I used Knit Picks Wool of the Andes color Arctic Pool Heather. 1 skein (50g/110yd) worsted weight yarn in Contrast Color (CC). I used Knit Picks Wool of the Andes color Avocado. 1 US size 7 $(4.5\;\mathsf{m m})$ $16^{\mathfrak{s}}$ circular needle, longer if using magic loop method, or size to get gauge · 1 set US size 7 $(4.5\;\mathsf{m m})$ double point needles, if not using the magic loop method · 1 stitch marker
Key:
K - knit P-purl K2tog - knit 2 together MC - main color CC - contrast color PM - place marker Kfb - knit into the front and then the back of stitch (increase one stitch) Pat - pattern
erdignis Knits
Finished measurements: 19" circumference at ribing, 22" circumference at base of color work, $23^{\circ}$ long without tassel.
Gauge: 20 stitches and 24 rows $=4^{\ast}$ in stockinette stitch
Hat Directions:
Hat is knit from the bottom edge to the top. With 16-inch circular needles, loosely cast on 108 stitches with MC, and join to knit in the round. Be careful not to twist the stitches. Place a marker (pm) at the beginning of the round. Begin ribbing pattern (pat): $^{\star}\mathsf{K}2$ P2, repeat from \* to end of round. Continue in K2P2 pat until ribbing measures $1.5^{\circ}$ (or longer if you want ribbing to fold over) Next round: with MC, K 27, kfb, K 27, kfb, K to end of round. Begin row 1 of color work chart - Figure 1. Each row of the chart is repeated 5 times in each round. Note - there is an error in the contrast color section of the chart in row 271 - see box for correction. Because the hat is knit in the round, each row of the chart is read from right to left. You are always knitting on a “public" side row. See tips for successful stranded color work. If not using the magic loop method, you will need to switch to double points when there are no longer enough stitches to use the circulars comfortably. When all rows on the chart have been completed, there will be 20 stitches. Next round: starting with CC, K2tog, change to MC, K2tog, continue K2tog around alternating CC and MC. There will now be 10 live stitches left on the needles. Next round: $^{\star}\mathsf{K}\mathsf{1}$ in CC, k1 in MC, repeat from \* to end of round. Repeat last round 4 more times. Cut both MC and CC yarn, leaving 8-10" tails. Thread both tails through a tapestry needle. Thread the tails through all remaining stitches. Pull tight and weave in ends securely to fasten off. Weave in all other ends and block. Blocking can really help improve the look of stranded color-work. A tassel or other item (such as bells, i-cord streamers, beaded strands, or anything else you fancy) attached to the end of the stocking cap willalso improve the look of the hat by weighing the end down just a bit.
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Blue - K in MC Green - K in CC Grey - no stitch / -k2tog
Tips for stranded knitting:
The strand of yarn that is carried behind the stitches when not being knit is called a "float". Be sure to keep the floats on the loose side by spreading out the stitches on the right needle. If it seems a litle too loose, it's probably right. Floats that are too short will cause the knitting to gather unattractively. Some find that turning the hat inside out so that the strands are on the outside (you will still be knitting on the public side) of the circle, can help keep the floats the proper length. Long floats, (more than 5 stitches or so) can cause tension inconsistencies, are messy, and can more easily be snagged. To avoid this, floats should be “caught" in the knitting to keep things neat. This process is best demonstrated in this tutorial provided by philosopher's wool two-handed video. Usually in stranded work, the position of the two yarn colors should remain constant (one color always coming over the other color) to produce the best results. Because this pattern is relatively simple, this is not really necessary in this case. Because the colors change at the end of the round, jogs aren't really that noticeable. Blocking really helps even out the floats and stitches.