Loom Knitted Knocker
By: Scarlett Royal "The Loom Muse"
Tutorial: https://youtu.be/z8fb WVyiw WE Items: 56 peg 1/4" CinDWood fine gauge loom, looming hook, crafters needle, polyfil, Cascade Yarns: Ultra Pima Fine Yarn (Get your Knitted Knocker loom kit at cindwoodlooms.com)
Terms:
DSCO: Draw String Cast On Flat: Weave the working yarn in and out of the pegs until you get to desired peg number then turn and go back the direction you came. Place working yarn over empty loop and toss the bottom loop over on the pegs with existing loops from the original weave. Do this back to starting point. (note we will not draw string this in the end so keep is as is, you will be putting the space between the loops back on the pegs at the end to do the invisible bind off.) K: Flat Knit: Lay the working yarn over the peg, pull the bottom loop over the top loop, before releasing the loop pull back into the middle of the peg a little to keep the stitch looser. P: Purl: Pull the working yarn through the bottom of the peg to the top, then take original loop off the peg and place loop you just made back onto the peg. SK: Skip: Skip the first peg and work back the direction you came. IBO: Invisible Bind Off: Cut a very very long strand of yarn and thread your needle. Then send the needle through the bottom loop on the first peg like a knit(top to bottom) then send the needle through the top loop like a knit(top to bottom). Then take the needle and send it through the top loop on the next peg like a purl(bottom to top). Then send the needle through the bottom loop on the 1st peg like a purl(bottom to top) Now repeat from beginning of instructions, repeat this until you reach the end up the stitches. Then go in from your starting point and tighten all your loops all the way across. Take loops of pegs. B cup: 33 Markers on pegs 1, 24, and 33 C cup: 36 Markers on pegs 1, 26, and 36 D cup: 40 Markers on pegs 1, 28, and 40 Note: The 1st and last markers will move when you start to decrease and increase to know where you ended last. The middle marker will never move and is always purled. Working Flat DSCO 33, 36, 0r 40 Row 1: K Row 2: K9(B)10(C)12(D), P1, K23(B)25(C)27(D) Row 3: SK1, K22(B)24(C)26(D), P1, K9(B)10(C)12(D) Row 4: K9(B)10(C)12(D),P1, K22(B)24(C)26(D) Row 5: SK1, K21(B)23(C)25(D), P1, K9(B)10(C)12(D) Row 6: K9(B)10(C)12(D), P1, K21(B)23(C)25(D) Row 7: SK1, K20(B)22(C)24(D), P1, K9(B)10(C)12(D) Row 8: K9(B)10(C)12(D), P1, K20(B)22(C)24(D) Row 9: SK1, K19(B)21(C)23(D), P1, K9(B)10(C)12(D) Row 10: K9(B)10(C)12(D), P1, K19(B)21(C)23(D) Row 11: Sk1, K18(B)20(C)22(D), P1, K9(B)10(C)12(D) Row 12: SK1, K8(B)9(C)11(D), P1, K18(B)20(C)22(D) Row 13: SK1, K17(B)19(C)21(D), P1, K8(B)9(C)11(D) Row 14: Sk1, K7(B)8(C)10(D), P1 K17(B)19(C)21(D) Row 15: Sk1, K16(B)18(C)20(D), P1, K7(B)8(C)10(D) Row 16: Sk1, K6(B)7(C)9(D), P1, K16(B)18(C)20(D) Row 17: Sk1, K15(B)17(C)19(D), P1, K6(B)7(C)9(D) Row 18: Sk1, K5(B)6(C)8(D), P1, K15(B)17(C)19(D) Row 19: Sk1, K14(B)16(C)18(D), P1, K5(B)6(C)8(D) Row 20: Sk1, K4(B)5(C)7(D), P1, K14(B)16(C)18(D) Row 21: Sk1, K13(B)15(C)17(D), P1, K4(B)5(C)7(D) Row 22: Sk1, K3(B)4(C)6(D), P1, K13(B)15(C)17(D) Row 23: Sk1, K12(B)14(C)16(D), P1, K3(B)4(C) 6(D) Row 24: Sk1, K2(B)3(C)5(D), P1, K12(B)14(C)16(D) Row 25: Sk1, K11(B)13(C)15(D), P1, K2(B)3(C)5(D) Row 26: Sk1, K1(B)2(C)4(D), P1, K11(B)13(C)15(D) Row 27: Sk1, K10(B)12(C)14(D), P1, K1(B)2(C)4(D) From this row on we are now working C and D cups Row 28: Sk1, K1(C)3(D), P1, K12(C)14(D) Row 29: Sk1, K11(C)13(D), P1, K1(C)3(D) Row 30: Sk1, K2(D), P1, K11(C)13(D) From this row on we are now working D cup. Row 31: Sk1, K12, P1, K2 Row 32: Sk1, K1, P1, K12 Row 33: Sk1, K11, P1, K1 From this row on we are going back to B, C, and D cup sizes. Row 34: K1, P1, K10(B)11(CandD) Row 35: Sk1, K9(B)10(CandD), P1, K2 Row 36: K2, P1, K9(B)10(CandD) Row 37: Sk1, K8(B)9(CandD), P1, K3 Row 38: K3, P1, K8(B)9(CandD) Row 39: Sk1, K7(B)8(CandD), P1, K4 Row 40: K4, P1, K7(B)8(CandD) Row 41: Sk1, K6(B)7(CandD), P1, K5 Row 42: K5, P1, K6(B)7(CandD) Row 43: Sk1, K5(B)6(CandD), P1, K6 Row 44: K6, P1, K5(B)6(CandD) Row 45: Sk1, K4(B)5(CandD), P1, K7 Row 46: K7, P1, K4(B)5(CandD) Row 47: Sk1, K3(B)4(CandD), P1, K8 Row 48: K8, P1, K3(B)4(CandD) Row 49: Sk1, K2(B)3(CandD), P1, K9 From this point on we are working with C and D cup. Row 50: K9, P1, K3 Row 51: Sk1, K2, P1, K10 From this point on we are working with the D cup. Row 52: K10, P1, K2 Row 53: Sk1, K1, P1, K11 Row 54: K11, P1, K1 Row 55: Sk1, P1, K12 You've now completed your 1st section of the knocker, now go back to row 2 and repeat to row 55 depending on the cup size you are making, do this 2 more times for a total of 3 sections. After you complete your 3 sections.
ICOF
Tuck your nipple strand at the top, lightly create a drawstring area at the bottom of the knocker for tightening after stuffing. Make sure to stuff the drawstring strand into the hole after you have tightened it for that a person can adjust the stuffing for later if desired. To make a nipple free pattern simply remove 5 stitches at the top of the breast, and knit with no skips, to row 10. Then start adding skips back in. \*\*Please send your completed knitted knockers to Knittedknockers.org,they can use all they can get. They are sending out hundreds monthly free to the women who can use them. Knitted Knockers can be mailed unstuffed to save on postage to: Knitted Knockers, 1780 Iowa Street, Bellingham, WA 98229. You can email any questions you have on the pattern to info@cindwoodlooms.com
