Knitting Pattern for Baseball Team Logos Socks with Pinstripes and Kitchener Stitch Finishing

BASEBALL SOCKS (STRANDED PATTERN WITHOUT PINSTRIPES)

BY MEREDITH DAVEY This is agreaittt ftutaalfak at tiz are ize woman who wears a size 8 shoe ora child who wears a size 6 shoe (with a footapproximately $9\%$ inches long) and a smaller size for a woman who wears size $5\,^{1}\!/\!_{2}$ shoe or a child who wears a size 4 shoe (with a foot approximately $8\%$ inches long).

I have included stitch patterns for 27 of the 30 current Major League Baseballteams and the Brooklyn Dodgers. (They are shown at the end.) You will note tha all of the logos are upside down; this is deliberate. This is a top-down sock patern, so you willfollow the chart from bottom to top (this will make sense once you start kniting).

Sock yarn (fingering weight) in the your team colors. Get sock yarn specificall—it typically knits at about 30 stitches /4 inches, and is about $75\%$ $25\%$ nylon. You will need approximately 400 yards (2-50 gram skeins) of your main color (MC), 400 yards (2-50 gram skeins) of your contrast color (CC), and 400 yards (2-50 gram skeins) of your second contrast color (CC2),if your team's sock has three colors. The list of team yarn colors is asfollows: NEW! Brooklyn Dodgers: (MC)-White, (CC)-Blue · NEW! Tampa Bay Rays: (MC)-White, (CC)-Blue Los Angeles Angels of Anaheim: (MC)-White, (CC)-Dark Blue, (CC2)-Red Oakland Athletics: (MC)-Gold, (CC)-Green Toronto Blue Jays: (MC)-White, (CC)-Blue Atlanta Braves: (MC)-White, (CC)-Dark Blue, (CC2)-Red Milwaukee Brewers: (MC)-White, (CC)-Dark Blue St. Louis Cardinals: (MC)-White, (CC)-Red Arizona Diamondbacks: (MC)-Black, (CC)-Dark Red · Los Angeles Dodgers: (MC)-White, (CC)-Blue San Francisco Giants: (MC)-Orange, (CC)-Black Cleveland Indians: (MC)-White, (CC)-Dark Blue, (CC2)-Red Washington Nationals: (MC)-White, (CC)-Red Baltimore Orioles: (MC)-Orange, (CC)-Black · San Diego Padres: (MC)-White, (CC)-Dark Blue, (CC2)-Taupe Pittsburgh Pirates: (MC)-Gold, (CC)-Black Texas Rangers: (MC)-White, (CC)-Blue, (CC2)-Red Boston Red Sox: (MC)-White, (CC)-Dark Blue, (CC2)-Red Cincinnati Reds: (MC)-White, (CC)-Red · Kansas City Royals: (MC)-White, (CC)-Blue Detroit Tigers: (MC)-White, (CC)-Dark Blue · A set of five Size O $\mathrm{2\mm})$ double-pointed DP) needles for the larger size, a set of five Size 000 ( $1.5\;\mathrm{mm})$ doublepointed DPnedes for the smaller ize rthe size necessarytobtain the prpergaue. (Th gaeis discussed below.) Four stitch markers (for marking stitches along needles) One detachable stitch marker (tmark theegiing ofyour row. ofn use apaerlipora safety pin for this.） Waste yarn (for knitting the heel flap and testing sock size) Blunt tapestry needle (not shown)

Stitch gauge:

Uusing the long-tail cast-on or whichever cast-on you prefer), cast on 3 stitches and knit a swatch at least $2^{\circ}$ long. Measure thenumber of stitches in two inches. You shoul have 20 stithes/2 inches for the larger size, or 2 stitches /2 inches for the smaller size. The correct gauge is very important for a proper fit.

Instructions:

Casting On:

Make a slktapproximatl yardintCC yaHok your slkewDP.Ung thlnl cast-on over two DP needles (or whichever cast-on you prefer), cast on 80 stitches.

Knitting the Cuff:

Distribute your 80 stitches evenly over 4 needles (20 stitches to a needle). Forming the needles into a circle, join the stitches in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches (otherwise you will end up with a mobius sock $\circledast$ ).Attach your detachable stitch marker at the beginning of your row, to keep track. Move this marker down as you work, so you do not get confused. Begin knitting in the following pattern: $*\mathrm{l}_{\xi2}$ $\mathrm{p}2^{*}$ , repeat until the end of the row. Continue this $2\mathbf{x}2$ ribbing for 5 more rows (6 rows total). Aftaisth9s the following pattern: \*k5, M1\*, repeat until the end of the row. Once you ncrease your stitch count to96, rearrange your stithes ont 3needs, with 32 stitchs on each need. Place a stitch marker 16 stitches in on each needle. Your knitting should nowbe divided into six equal sections of 16 stitches each. You have now reached the logo pattern! Find your logo pattern (cut it out and tape it to a small piece of cardboard if you need to) and be prepared to follow it. This next row willstat at Row 2 of your logo pattern. If necessary, your logo may call for MC (and/or CC2) at this point. When you find you have to add an additional color(s), be sure to strand the non-knitted color along the back fairly loosely. Your knitting should lie flat (it should not pucker), and you should be able to stretch the stranded knitting slightly beyond its normal knitted tension. Try not to let any one strand hang loose for longer than 3-6 stitches. In those cases, wrap the stranded yarn with the knitted yarn, so the loose threads stay close to the fabric.

An example of stranding in the cuff along the inside (wrong side) of the fabric. Notice that the MC (orange) is twisted in every 3-6 stitches. Knit the next few rows as follows: \*Knit Row 2 of logo pattern, $\mathrm{k4}$ $\mathrm{CC*}$ , repeat until the end of the row (a total of six times). This is a 16- stitch repeat, and should end either at a stitch marker or the end of a needle. ·Knit Rows 3-15 of the logo pattern in a similar fashion: \*knit row of logo pattern, $\mathrm{k4}$ f $\mathrm{CC*}$ , repeat until the end of the row. As you knit Row 16, decrease to 93 stitches as follows: $*_{\mathrm{k}30}$ of CC, $\mathrm{k}2\mathrm{tog^{*}}$ , repeat until the end of the row. There will be three repeats total, one per needle. Your final cuff should look something like this:

After you have finished the cuff, now would be a good time to check that your sock willactuallyfit.Starting from the firststchfyw, teadallfy sthntywaste yuin t taestyerytultff over yo and an.Itmgh alite su oerelbt th pnt is i slft. it is toit $\circledast$ (do not worry,this has happened tome too),try another gauge swatch on larger needles with 18 stitches/2 inches for th larger size, or 20 stitches/2 inches for the smaller size. Then go back to \*Casting $\mathrm{On}^{\mathfrak{s}}$ and try again. Ifit does ft, rethread vour knitting back onto vour needles and move onto the leg.

Knitting the Leg:

Start from the beginning of the round and knit as follows: 1. Start with Row 1 of your team logo. \*knit team logo (over 12 stitches), pm, k19 MC (stranding CC [and CC2, if necessary] behind MC)\*, repeat until the end of the row. There willbe three repeats total, one per needle. 2. Knit Rows 2-16 of your team logo in the same manner. 3. Repeat Steps 1. and 2. three more tmes, fora total of4repeats in thl (see picture).

Knitting the Heel Flap:

At the end of your fourth repeat of the leg team logo pattern, start the heel flap. Rearrange your stitches as follows: ●Needle 1 (including the first team logo): 30 stitches. Remove the stitch marker from this needle. · Needle 4: 18 stitches Set aside the removable stitch marker for now. Put the remaining 45 stitches on waste yarn. The heel flap begins as follows: If you have a CC2 strand, cut it at this point with a 4-inch tail. Knit Row 1 of the first team logo, then k18 of MC (to the end of Needle 1). For this frst row, strand CC behind MC up to this point (you will need it in a minute). ·Combine allstches not on the waste yanontone neede. Whileworking the hlflp you should only need two needles.) Cut your MC, leaving a 4-inch tail. Turn your work and purl back with CC for 48 stitches (these should be all of your live stitches). Using CC, work the hee flap using the“Eye of the Parridge” technique (which looks littl like k,1 ribbing): 1．\*sll, $^{\,1\ast}$ , repeat until the end of the row. Turn. 2. Sl1,p to end of row. Turn. 3. Repeat Steps 1. and 2. twenty-four times, for a total of forty-eight rows. 4. Repeat Step 1. one final time. Your final heel flap will look something like this:

Turning the Heel:

Knit as follows: 1.With C, sl,,tg, tg,,ty work to start kniting in te oppsite direton yes, Ik yu are in the middle of the row). Cut CC and leave a 4-inch tail. 2.You should nowbe looking at the knit side. Sll, attach MC (you willnow be knitting with this),k2 with MC, ssk, k1, turn your work. 3.Younw shoudb loin at thepurl si. till withMC,sl pul l one stithbefore noticale gapin te stitches (see the picture below). P2tog acros this gap, p1, turn your work.

The "gap" in heel turning as you purl.

The "gap" in heel turning as you knit. 4.You now should be looking at the knit side. Stil with MC, sl1, knit until one stitch before noticeable gap in the stitches (see the picture above). Ssk across this gap, k1, turn your work. 5. Repeat Steps 3. and 4. until there are no stitches lft, ending with Step 4. Towards the end, you willprobably have to do a p2tog or sk at the end of the row; this is fine. In the end, you will have 25 stitches of MC on your needle. Congratulations! You have successfully turned a heel see picture below).

An example of the turmed heel

Knitting the Foot:

Knitting the foot consists of several parts. When you pick up your stitches around the heel, you will find you have many more stitches than the number you need to go around your foot. Therefore, you will decrease these extra stitches out in gussets. At the same time, you willbegin working the arch-shaped, fitted portion along the bottom of the fot. (All of this, of course, while you are continuing the logo repeats for the remaining two columns $\circledast$ 一.

Knit as follows:

1. Move the stitches held on the waste yarn to a new needle, removing waste yarn. 2. Starting from the end of your turned heel, use a new needle to pick up and $\mathrm{k}26$ stitches along the side of the heel flap,using MC. The final stitch between the heel flap and the stitches from the waste yarn may become loose, so twist this “corner”' stitch once or twice before knitting it.

An example of the picked-up heel flap stitches 3.Knit the first stitch from the waste yarn and transfer it to the previous needle, so all of your MC stitches are on the same needle. 4. Knit the stitches formerly on the waste yarn asfollows: Re-attch CC (and CC2). Knit Row 1 of team logo (thishould be a continuation of the previous column), pm, $\mathrm{k}19\,\mathrm{MC}$ (stranding CC [and CC21), pm, knit Row 1 of team logo (this should be a continuation of the previous column), k1 MC. 5. Use another new needle to pick up and $\mathtt{k26}$ stitches along the final side of the heel flap, using MC. Since the first stitch between the heel flap and the stitchesfrom the waste yarn may become loose, twist this corner stitch once or twice before knitting it, as you did with the other corner stitch. Transfer the final stitch of the stitches formerly on the waste yarn (the only MC stitch after the second team logo) onto this needle. 6.You should now have four needles with stitches. Knit twelve stitches into the next needle (this should line up with the center of the heel) and rearrange your needles as follows: ·°Needle 1: 40 stitches (from rough heel center to beginning of first team logo) Needle 2: 2 stitches (frombegining of first team logo to rough center of top of fot, also called the instep) ●Needle 3: 21 stitches (from rough center of instep to end of second team logo) Needle 4: 39 stitches (from end of second team logo to rough hee center) 7. Place your detachable stitch marker lined up with the first stitch of Needle 1 (at heel center). This is where your row will start from now. 8. To decrease your gusset: a. First row: · Needle 1: Knit MC to one stitch from end of needle. Slip last stitch to Needle 2. Needle 2: K2tog within pattern (so that the MC stitch disappears behind the team logo pattern). Finish team logo pattern. K10 MC. Needle 3: K9 MC. Knit first 11 stitches of team logo. Slip last stitch of team logo knitwise. Slip first stitch of Needle 4 to Needle 3 knitwise. Knit these stitches together through back of loop,like ssk (so that the MC stitch disappears behind the team logo pattern). Needle 4: Knit MC. .Second row: Knit, following pattern.

9. Knit sixrows of gust decreases Ste 8. a. and b.) before you start to include the arch shaping. The arch shaping occurs on the underside of the foo and creates abias stitch that causes the sock tohug the arch of your foot in a way that store-bought socks never do $\circledcirc$ . Knit the arch shaping as follows: a. Knit the seventh row of gusset decrease until five stitches from the end of Needle 4. Pm, k2tog, k3 (you should be at the end of Needle 4), M1. b. At the beginning of Needle 1, k1 (your center bottom stitch), M1, k3, ssk, pm. C. Continue kniting the next row of your gusset decrease (this will be Row 8. b.). When you come back to the bottom, knit straight through on Needles 4 and 1. d.Continue knitting the next row of your gusset decrease (this will be Row 8. a.), until one stitch before the marker onNeedle 4. Move marker one stitch to the right by slipping stitches. Ktog, knit to the end of the Needl 4, M1. At the beginning of Needle 1, k1, M1, knit to one stitch before the marker, sk, moving the marker to just ater the ssk stitch. (The pictures below show the steps.) e. Continue Steps c. and d. until you can count 20 stitches between your center bottom stitch and your markers. (You will finish your arch shaping before you finish your gusset decreases.)

Move marker to the right one stitch, and k2tog.

Work to one stitch before the marker,ssk, moving the marker to the left. 10. Continue a. and b. in Step 8. until you have decreased to 82 stitches total, removing stitch markers when appropriate. 11. After you finish the gusset decreases, continue knitting the foot over those 82 stitches until you have added another four repeats of the team logo pattern. There should be nine repeats total along the two long columns: one in the cuff $+$ four in the leg $^+$ four in the foot. Finish your final row at the bottom of the foot, at the end of Needle 4.

Knitting the Toe:

To even out your stitches, shift one stitch from Needle 2 to Neede 1 and one stitch from Needle 3 to Needle 4 (yes, I know we have just stolen stitches from the team logos!) You should now have as follows: . Needle 1: 21 stitches Needle 2: 21 stitches . Needle 3: 20 stitches Needle 4: 20 stitches Continue your pattern (pinstriped or not until the end of Needle 1, making sure to knit the last stitch in CC, as it is part of the team logo column. Cut your MC (and possibly CC2) yarn, leaving a 4-inch tal. Move your detachabl stitch marker to between Needl 1 and Needle 2, as our round will now be starting from here. Starting from Needle 2, and using only C, knit the following decreases: 1. Knit entire row. 2. Knit as follows: ■ Needle 2: K1, ssk, knit to end. ■ Needle 3: Knit to last three stitches, k2tog, k1. ■ Needle 4: K1, ssk, knit to end. ■ Needle 1: Knit to last three stitches, k2tog, k1. 3. Repeat Steps 1. and 2. until 42 stitches remain. 4. Repeat Step 2. until 22 stitches remain. The Kitchener Stitch: Repeat steps 1-4 until all the stitches are grafted together. (Examples shown in waste yarn for clarity.)

1. Pass the tapestry needle through the first stitch on the front needle as if to knit. Drop that stitch off the needle and pull the yarn through. 2. Slide the tapestry needle through the next stitch on the front needle as if to purl. Leave this stitch on the needle.

3. Pass the tapestry needle through the first stitch on the back needle as if to purl. Drop that stitch off the needle and pull the yarn through. 4. Slide the tapestry needle through the next stitch on the back needle as if to knit. Leave this stitch on the needle. Slip the stitches from Needle 3 to Needle 2, and the stitches from Needle 4 to Needle 1. You should have two needles with 11 stitches each. Cut the CC yarn, leaving a 12-inch tail. Thread the 12-inch tail onto the tapestry needle and use the Kitchener Stitch (see the box above) to graft the toe. Afterwards, turn the sock inside out and use the tapestry needle to weave in any remaining loose ends, remembering to pull the associated stitches tight. Photographs by Laurel Rachmeler, Meredith Davey, and Pamela Batchelor.