Orthogonal: A Flexible Cowl or Scarf Pattern with Modular Panels and Reversible Stitch Designs by Lee Meredith

Ｏｒｔｈｏｇｏｎａｌ

by Lee Meredith ｌｅｅｔｈａｌｋｎｉｔｓ.ｃｏm Orthogonal is a flexible cowl or scarf with a few different options you can plug in for the stitch patterns. The piece is worked in modular panels which are knit in opposite directions, using short rows to connect them.

You can make the whole thing in intricate lace designs, with the lace patterns switching directions in each panel, or you can work simple all-over lace trellis or linen stitch and seed stitch patterns to make for a more relaxing knitting experience. Or mix and match - the complex lace panels interspersed with either the trellis or the squishy non-lace. In the simple patterns, some striping is recommended to show off the directional switches in the pattern - the stripes in adjacent panels will be perpendicular, or orthogonal!

is designed for easy reading on your computer screen, so only print the pages you need printed to save paper and ink. Orthogonal is copyright Lee Meredith 2012 - for personal use only (ok to sell finished items for charity purposes) and no reprinting or redistributing of this pdf - thanks! Email Lee at leemeredith@gmail.com with any questions, etc. This pattern is for any weight yarn around worsted or heavier; the piece's width is determined by your gauge. It will be 29 stitches wide, in whatever gauge you're working with, and may or may not be stretched wider when blocked. A yarn with good stitch definition is recommended if using the lace patterns, and some striping (or self-striping yarn) is recommended in the simple panels. This could be striping between 2 or more yarns the whole time, or it could be just throwing in 1 stripe at some point within the panel. The piece can be as long as you want - anything from a small cowl to a long scarf.

You need

> Any yarn you want to use, around worsted

weight or heavier, multiple colors for striping if you choose: for a medium size cowl, approx 120-200 yards / 110-180 meters; for a long-ish scarf, 220-280 yards / 200-260 meters (fewer for bulky, more for worsted) > Needles sized to work well with your yarn - a circular needle is recommended, as the cord will hold your stitches well > 2 stitch markers (different colors or kinds - markerA and markerB)

The panels

There are 3 pairs of panels: lace, trellis (simple all-over lace), and non-lace (linen stitch on panel 1, seed stitch on panel 2). ou can choose to switch between the lace panels and the trellis or the nonlace panels, but do not mix and match the two simple patterns with each other (it would result in a wonky shaped piece). The trellis is wider, and when used together with the lace panels, the piece should be stretched when blocked, which will show off the lace well. The dense linen/seed stitch panels pull the fabric in a bit, so that when you block the whole piece you won't be stretching the lace panels, making for a squishy fabric throughout the piece. Orthogonal by Lee Meredith -

Tecｈniques

Cable cast-on: Used to add cast-on stitches to a working row. Insert needle between first and second stitches of live row (not througl stitches, but between them). Begin to knit a stitch normally, pulling the loop of yarn through the stitches, but leave all stitches on the left needle. Without twisting it, pull that just-knit stitch up and slip it onto the left needle (keeping it loose is good here). Repeat those 3 steps for as many stitches as you need to cast on, inserting needle between just-cast-on stitch and next live stitch on the following stitch, and so on. tch cast on will pull last stitch on original row (see above) so be sure not to mis-count your stitches (place a temporary marker when beginning cast-on if needed). Decrease bind-off method (purlwise): An easy decrease method with a bit more stretch than a normal decrease. P2tog, \*pass just-worked stitch back onto left-hand needle without twisting, p2tog, repeat from \*. Slipping first stitch of each row: Always slip with yarn on side where it was from last worked stitch, so if it appears as a purl stitch (because it was just knit on the other side) then slip with yarn in front (as if purling), and if it appears as a knit stitch (because it was just purled on the other side) then slip with yarn in back (as if knitting). Then to work following stitch, bring yarn through needles to front or back if needed.

Ａbbreviａtiｏns

st(s) = stitch(es) sl = slip stitch (purl-wise) k = knit p = purl yo = yarn over (increases 1 with hole) k2tog = knit 2 together (decreases 1) ssk = slip, slip, knit slipped stitches together (decreases 1) sk2p = slip, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over (decreases 2) p2tog = purl 2 together (decreases 1) p2togTBL = purl 2 together through the back loops, by bringing needle upwards through both stitches, the second stitch first (decreases 1) kfb = knit into front of stitch, then into back (increases 1) m1 = make 1 by picking up the strand between needle points from front to back, and knitting into the back (increases 1) wyif = with yarn in front wyib = with yarn in back Lace panels are charted on pagi RS = right side 12, with chart symbols and abbreviations all on 1 page there.

Notes

Work piece by alternating between a panel 1 and a panel 2, either all the same, or mix and match lace with either the trellis or the non-lace panels. Change colors as you like, adding stripes and/or switching to a different color for each panel, or after each panel 1 / panel 2 pair. There are always 29 stitches at the end of every panel 1 row. Piece is designed to be 2-sided, with each set of two panels facing the opposite direction from the last two. All panel stitch patterns are somewhat reversible, so that wrong sides don't look bad. To make a 1-sided piece with all panels facing the same way, simply purl 1 row after completing a panel 2, before . beginning next panel 1. If making a cowl or loop scarf, you may choose to wash and block the piece first before sewing ends together, especially if you need to stretch the lace out, so that you can lay it out flat.

Pattern

Begin first panel 1. > If making lace panel, work all rows to end (rows 1-28). > If making trellis or linen stitch panel, work for as long as you want (a recommended length is that which makes your panel approximately square shaped, which depends on your gauge, but it can be any length). Work panel 2 pattern of your choice, beginning with a cable cast-on according to that panel's instructions. Work next panel 1 of your choice, treating the last worked stitch on the needle from bind-off (ending panel 2) as the first slipped/knit stitch. Repeat from \* until piece is as long as you want it (ending with panel 1). ? For a loop scarf which wraps around neck twice or a long scarf, recommended length is 50-60 inches / 125-150 cm. > For a cowl, hold it around your neck and stop when you like it Bind off. If making a cowl or loop scarf, sew ends together (in a moebius loop if you want). Wash and block, stretching lace panels as needed.

Lace panel 1 (also charted on page 12)

Row 1: Sl1, p1, yo, k2tog, [p1, k1] three times, yo, sk2p, yo, k1, p1, k1, yo, sk2p, yo, [k1, p1] three times, ssk, yo, p1, k1. Row 2: Sl1, ssk, yo, [p1, k1] twice, k2tog, yo, p5, k1, p5, yo, ssk, [k1, p1] twice, yo, k2tog, p1. Row 3: Sl1, p1, yo, k2tog, p1, k1, p3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, p1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, p3, k1, p1, ssk, yo, p1, k1. Row 4: Sl1, ssk, yo, p1, k1, p1, k2tog, yo, [k1, p5] twice, k1, yo, ssk, p1, k1 p1, yo, k2tog, p1. Row 5: Sl1, p1, yo, k2tog, [p1, k1] twice, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, sk2p, yo, k3, yo, ssk, [k1, p1] twice, ssk, yo, p1, k1. Row 6: Sl1, ssk, yo, p1, k1, k2tog, yo, p6, p2togTBl, yo, p7, yo, ssk, k1, p1, yo, k2tog, p1. Row 7: Sl1, p1, yo, k2tog, p3, k2tog, yo, [k2, yo, ssk] twice, k3, yo, ssk, p3, ssk, yo, p1, k1. Row 8: Sl1, ssk, yo, p1, k2tog, yo, k1, p4, p2togTBl, yo, p9, k1, yo, ssk, p1, yo, k2tog, p1. Row 9: Sl1, p1, yo, k2tog, p1, [k1, k2tog, yo] twice, k1, yo, ssk, k3, yo, ssk, k2, yo, ssk, k1, p1, ssk, yo, p1, k1. Row 10: Sl1, ssk, yo, p1, yo, ssk, p6, yo, p2tog, p9, k2tog, yo, p1, yo, k2tog, p1. Row 11: Sl1, p1, yo, k2tog, p2, k2, yo, ssk, yo, sk2p, yo, k1, k2tog, yo, k3, k2tog, yo, k2, p2, ssk, yo, p1, k1. Row 12: Sl1, ssk, yo, p1, k1, yo, ssk, p1, k1, p5, yo, p2tog, p4, k1, p1, k2tog, yo, k1, p1, yo, k2tog, p1. Row 13: Sl1, p1, yo, k2tog, p1, [k1, p1] twice, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, [p1, k1] twice, p1, ssk, yo, p1, k1. Row 14: Sl1, ssk, yo, p1, k1, p1, yo, ssk, k1, p11, k1, k2tog, yo, p1, k1, p1, yo, k2tog, p1. Row 15: Sl1, p1, yo, k2tog, p1, k1, p3, k1, yo, sk2p, yo, k3, yo, sk2p, yo, k1, p3, k1, p1, ssk, yo, p1, k1. Row 16: Sl1, ssk, yo, [p1, k1] twice, yo, ssk, p11, k2tog, yo, [k1, p1] twice, yo, k2tog, p1. Row 17: Sl1, p1, yo, k2tog, p1, [k1, p1] twice, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, [p1, k1] twice, p1, ssk, yo, p1, k1. Row 18: Sl1, ssk, yo, [p1, k1] twice, k2tog, yo, p11, yo, ssk, [k1, p1] twice, yo, k2tog, p1. Row 19: Sl1, p1, yo, k2tog, p1, k1, p2, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, sk2p, yo, k3, yo, ssk, p2, k1, p1, ssk, yo, p1, k1. Row 20: Sl1, ssk, yo, p1, k1, p1, k2tog, yo, p6, yo, p2tog, p5, yo, ssk, p1, k1, p1, yo, k2tog, p1. Row 21: Sl1, p1, yo, k2tog, p1, k1, p1, k2tog, yo, k3, [k2tog, yo, k2] twice, yo, ssk, p1, k1, p1, ssk, yo, p1, k1. Row 22: Sl1, ssk, yo, p1, k1, k2tog, yo, p9, yo, p2tog, p4, yo, ssk, k1, p1, yo, k2tog, p1. Row 23: Sl1, p1, yo, k2tog, p2, k2tog, yo, k2, k2tog, yo, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1, yo, ssk, p2, ssk, yo, p1, k1. Row 24: Sl1, ssk, yo, p1, k2tog, yo, p9, p2togTBl, yo, p6, yo, ssk, p1, yo, k2tog, p1. Row 25: Sl1, p1, yo, k2tog, p1, [k3, yo, ssk] twice, k1, yo, sk2p, yo, k2tog, yo, k3, p1, ssk, yo, p1, k1. Row 26: Sl1, ssk, yo, p1, yo, ssk, p2, k1, p4, p2togTBl, yo, p5, k1, p2, k2tog, yo, p1, yo, k2tog, p1. Row 27: Sl1, p1, yo, k2tog, p2, k2, [p1, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo] twice, p1, k2, p2, ssk, yo, p1, k1. Row 28: Sl1, ssk, yo, p1, k1, yo, ssk, p1, k1, [p5, k1] twice, p1, k2tog, yo, k1, p1, yo, k2tog, p1. End lace panel 1. Move to panel 2 of your choice.

Trellis panel 1

Row 1: Sl1, [yo, k2tog] repeat to end of row. Row 2: Sl1, purl all to end. Row 3: [Ssk, yo] repeat to last 1 st, k1. Row 4: Sl1, purl all to end. Repeat rows 1-4 until the panel is as long as you'd like it (stopping after a row 2 or 4). Move to panel 2 of your choice.

Non-lace panel 1 (linen stitch)

Row 1: K1, [sl1 wyif, k1] to end. Row 2: Sl wyif, [p1, sl1 wyib] to last 2, p1, sl1 wyif. Repeat rows 1-2 until the panel is as long as you'd like it. Move to panel 2 of your choice.

Lace panel 2 (also charted on page 12)

Set-up cast-on: Cable cast-on 17 sts. Row 1: K1, p1, ssk, yo, k1, p1, k3, k2tog, yo,p1, ssk, yo, k1,p1,sk2p, turn. Row 2: Sl1, k1, p2tog, yo, p1, k1, yo, p1, p2tog, p2,k1,p2tog,yo,p1,kfb,m1, turn. Row 3: Sl1, p2, ssk, yo, k1, p1, k1, k2tog, k2, yo, p1, ssk, yo, k1, p1, p2togTBL,turn. Row 4: Sl1, k1, p2tog, yo, p1, k1, yo, p3, p2tog, k1,p2tog, yo,p1,k1, m1,turn. Optionally, if you want to keep track of your stitch count, place markers while working row 1, after first p1 and before sk2p. Between markers will always be 14 sts when starting/finishing each section row. Increases, decreases, and short rows will happen outside the markers. You'll pass markers as follows: All even rows: Sl1, pass marker, work lace panel (over 14 stitches), pass marker, [either k1 or kfb], m1, turn. All odd rows: Sl1, [either p1 or p2], pass marker, work lace panel (over 14 stitches), pass marker, [either sk2p or p2togTBL], turn. Row 5: Sl1, p1, ssk, yo, k1, p1, ssk, k3, yo, p1, ssk, yo, k1, p1, sk2p, turn.

Row 8: Sl1, k1, p2tog, yo, p1, k1, p2, p2togTBL,p1, yo, k1, p2tog, yo, p1, k1, m1,turn. Row 9: Sl1, p1, ssk, yo, k1, p1, yo, k2, ssk, k1, p1, ssk, yo, k1, p1, sk2p, turn. Row 10: Sl1, k1, p2tog, yo, p1, k1, p2togTBl, p3, yo, k1, p2tog, yo, p1, kfb, m1, turn. Row 11: Sl1, p2, ssk, yo, k1, p1, yo, k3, k2tog, p1, ssk, yo, k1, p1, p2togTBL turn. Row 12: Sl1, k1, p2tog, yo, p1, k1, p2tog, p3, yo, k1, p2tog, yo, p1, k1, m1, turn. Row 13: Sl1, p1, ssk, yo, k1, p1, k3, k2tog, p1, yo, ssk, yo, k1, p1, sk2p, turn. Row 14: Sl1, k1, p2tog, yo, p2, yo, k1, p2tog, p2, k1, p2tog, yo, p1, kfb, m1, turn. Row 15: Sl1, p2, ssk, yo, k1, p1, k1, k2tog, p1, yo, k1, p1, ssk, yo, k1, p1, p2togTBL, turn. Row 16: Sl1, k1, p2tog, yo, p1, k2, p1, yo, [k1, p2tog] twice, yo, p1, k1, m1, turn. Row 17: Sl1, p1, ssk, yo, k1, p1, ssk, yo, k1, p3, ssk, yo, k1, p1, sk2p, turn. Row 18: Sl1, k1, p2tog, yo, p1, k3, yo, p1, p2togTBl, k1, p2tog, yo, p1, kfb, m1, turn. Row 19: Sl1, p2, ssk, yo, k1, yo, p1, ssk, k1, p3, ssk, yo, k1, p1, p2togTBL, turn. Row 20: Sl1, k1, p2tog, yo, p1, k2, p1, p2togTBl, k1, yo, p1, p2tog, yo, p1, k1, m1, turn. Row 21: Sl1, p1, ssk, yo, k1, p1, k1, yo, p1, ssk, k1, p1, ssk, yo, k1, p1, sk2p, turn. Row 22: Sl1, k1, p2tog, yo, p1, k1, p2togTBL, k1, yo, p1, k2, p2tog, yo, p1, kfb, m1, turn. Row 23: Sl1, p2, ssk, yo, k1, p3, k1, yo, k2tog, p1, ssk, yo, k1, p1, p2togTBL turn. Row 24: Sl1,k1, p2tog, yo, p1,k1, p2tog, p1,yo, k3, p2tog, yo, p1, k1, m1, turn. Row 25: Sl1, p1, ssk, yo, k1, p3, k1, k2tog, yo, p1, ssk, yo, k1, p1, sk2p, turn. Row 26: Sl1, k1, p2tog, yo, p1, yo, k1, p1, p2tog, p1, k2, p2tog, yo, p1, kfb, m1, turn. Row 27: Sl1, p2, ssk, yo, k1, p1, k1, k2tog, k1, p1, yo, k1, ssk, yo, k1, p1, p2togTBL,turn. Row 28: Sl1, k1, p2tog, yo, p3, yo, k1, p1, p2tog, k1, p2tog, yo, p1, k1, m1, turn. Row 29: Sl1, p1, ssk, yo, k1, p1, ssk, p1, k2, yo, k1, ssk, yo, k1, p1, sk2p, turn. Row 34: Sl1, k1, p2tog, yo, p1, Row 32: Sl1,k1, p2tog, yo, p1, k1,p2,p2togTBL,p1,k1, yo,p2tog,yo,p1,k1,m1, turn. Row 33: Sl1, p1,ssk, yo, k2, yo, p1,k1, ssk, k1, p1, ssk, yo, k1, p1, sk2p, turn.

k1, p2togTBL, p1, k1, yo, p2, p2tog, yo, p1, kfb, m1,turn. Row 35: Sl1, p2, ssk, [yo, k2] twice, p1, k2tog, p1, ssk, yo, k1, p1, p2togTBL, turn. Bind off 15 sts (purl-wise), so that a total of 29 sts remain (including st on working needle from bind-off).

Trellis panel 2

Set-up cast-on: Cable cast on 18 sts (or a different number to make the panel a different width - any even number). Setup row: P2, place markerA, k1, [yo, k2tog] up to first newly cast-on st, place markerB, sk2p, turn. Row 1: Sl1, pass markerB, purl to markerA, pass markerA, k1, m1, turn. Row 2: Sl1, p1, pass markerA, [ssk, yo] to last 1 st before markerB, k1, pass markerB, p2togTBL, turn. Row 3: Sl1, pass markerB, purl to markerA, pass markerA, k1, m1, turn. Row 4: Sl1, p1, pass markerA, k1, [yo, k2tog] to markerB, pass markerB, ssk, turn. Repeat rows 1-4 until reaching an even number row which decreases the final sts, so all sts are worked. Bind off purl-wise 2 fewer sts than the number you cast on, so that a total of 29 sts remain, including st on working needle from bind-off. Move to pane 1 of your choice.

Non-lace panel 2 (seed stitch)

Set-up cast-on: Cable cast on 17 sts (or a different number for a different width - any odd number). Setup row: P2, place markerA, [k1, p1] up to first newly cast-on st, place markerB, sk2p, turn. Row 1: Sl1, pass markerB, [p1, k1] to markerA, pass markerA, kfb, m1, turn. Repeat rows 1-4 until reaching an even number row which decreases the final sts, so all sts are worked. ind off purl-wise 2 fewer sts than the number you cast on, so that a total of 29 sts remain, including st on working needle from bind-off. Move to panel 1 of your choice.

k2tog = knit 2 together ssk = slip, slip, knit slipped stitches together sk2p = slip, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over p2tog = purl 2 together p2togTBL = purl 2 together through the back loops, by bringing needle upwards through both stitches, the second stitch first

kfb = knit into front of stitch, then into back m1 = make 1 by picking up the strand between needle points from front to back, and knitting into the back

Lace panel 1 above / Lace panel 2:

leethal patterns!

If you liked this pattern, be sure to check out other patterns by Lee Meredith, many of which are for any gauge and/or super versatile like this one. See them all on leethalknits.com, or queue them on ravelry! A few...

< Either/Or mitts can be made in any weight yarn, fingerless or full mittens from the thumbs out Betiko is an any-gauge, any size, completely customizable shawl > < Freewheelin' is a cabled rounded shawlwith flexible gauge & size Skoodlet is an any-gauge hood with a buttoning scarflet >

< Parallel Lines

moebius loop scarf can be made in any weight yarn On the left are 3 of the 8 designs in Remixed! There are many more where these came from, plus Quick Knits patterns which use 20 yards of yarn or less, and the Game Knitting ebook!