Orthogonal: Modular Panels Scarf or Cowl with Opposite Direction Knitting and Multiple Stitch Patterns

Orthogona!

A lacy (or not so lacy) scarf or cowl with several options, constructed in panels worked in opposite directions, modularly with no picked up stitches! Orthogonal is a flexible cowl or scarf with a few different options you can plug in for the stitch patterns. The piece is worked in modular panels which are knit in opposite directions, using short rows to connect them. You can make the whole thing in intricate lace designs, with the lace patterns switching directions in each panel, or you can work simple all-over lace trellis or linen stitch and seed stitch patterns to make for a more relaxing knitting experience. Or mix and match - the complex lace panels interspersed with either the trellis or the squishy non-lace. In the simple patterns, some striping is recommended to show off the directional switches in the pattern - the stripes in adjacent panels will be perpendicular, or Orthogonal! This pattern is for any weight yarn around worsted or heavier; the piece's width is determined by your gauge. It willbe 29 stitches wide, in whatever gauge you're working with, and may or may not be stretched wider whenblocked. A yarn with good stitch definition is recommended if using the lace patterns, and some striping (or selfstriping yarn) is recommended in the simple panels. This could be striping between 2 or more yarns the whole time, or it could be just throwing in 1 stripe at some point within the panel. The piece can be as long as you want - anything from a small cowl to a long scarf.

You need

? any yarn you want to use, around worsted weight or heavier, multiple colors for striping if you choose -- for a medium size cowl, approx 120-200 yards / 110-180 meters -- for a longer scarf, 220-280 yards / 200-260 meters needles sized to work well with your yarn - a circular needle is recommended, as the cord will hold your stitches well 2 stitch markers (different colors or kinds - markerA and markerB)

The panels

There are 3 pairs of panels: lace, trellis (simple allover lace), and non-lace (linen stitch on panel 1, seed stitch on panel 2). You can choose to switch between the lace panels and the trellis or the non-lace panels, but do not mix and match the two simple patterns with each other (it would result in a wonky shaped piece). The trellis is wider, and when used together with the lace panels, the piece should be stretched when blocked, which will show off the lace well. The dense linen/seed stitch panels pull the fabric in a bit, so that when you block the whole piece you won't be stretching the lace panels, making for a squishy fabric throughout the piece.

Techniques

Cable cast-on

\* Insert needle between first and second live stitches, and knit a stitch, pulling the yarn between the two stitches, but don't drop any stitches off the left-hand needle; slip the new stitch onto the left-hand needle without twisting it. Repeat from \*, inserting the needle between the new stitch you've just made and the next stitch. Continue doing this for as many new stitches as you need. Note that first stitch cast on will pull last stitch on original row (see above), so be sure not to mis-count your stitches.

Decrease bind-off (purl-wise)

An easy decrease method with a bit more stretch than a normal decrease. P2tog, \*pass just-worked stitch back onto left-hand needle without twisting, p2tog, repeat from \*.

Slipping first stitch of each row

Always slip with yarn on side where it was from last worked stitch, so if it appears as a purl stitch (because it was just knit on the other side) then slip with yarn in front (as if purling), and if it appears as a knit stitch (because it was just purled on the other side) then slip with yarn in back (as if knitting). Then to work following stitch, bring yarn through needles to front or back if needed.

Notes

Work piece by alternating between a panel 1 and a panel 2, either all the same, or mix and match lace with either the trellis or the non-lace panels. Change colors as you like, adding stripes and/or switching to a different color for each panel, or after each panel 1 / panel 2 pair. There are always 29 stitches at the end of every panel 1 row. Piece is designed to be 2-sided, with each set of two panels facing the opposite direction from the last two. All panel stitch patterns are somewhat reversible, so that wrong sides don't look bad. To make a 1-sided piece with all panels facing the same way, purl 1 row after completing a panel 2, before beginning next panel 1. If making a cowl or loop scarf, you may choose to wash and block the piece first before sewing ends together, especially if you need to stretch the lace out, so that you can lay it out flat.

Ａbbrｅvｉａtｉｏｎs

st(s) = stitch(es) k = knit p = purl RS = right side wS = wrong side sl = slip stitch purlwise yo = yarn over (increases 1 with hole) k2tog = knit 2 together (decreases 1) p2tog = purl 2 together (decreases 1) p2togTBL = purl 2 together through back loops, by bringing needle upwards through both stitches, second stitch first (decreases 1) ssk = slip, slip, knit slipped stitches together (decreases 1) sk2p = slip, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over (decreases 2) m1 = make 1, by picking up the strand between needle points from front to back, and knitting into the back loop (increases 1) kfb = knit into front then into back of stitch (increases 1) wyif = with yarn in front wyib = with yarn in back Lace panels are charted on page 7, with chart symbols and abbreviations all on one page there.

Pattern

Begin first panel 1. Cast on 29 sts (using cast-on method of your choice). Work panel 1 pattern of your choice. · If making lace panel, work all rows to end (rows 1-28). > If making trellis or linen stitch panel, work for as long as you want (a recommended length is that which makes your panel approximately square shaped, which depends on your gauge, but it can be any length). Work panel 2 pattern of your choice, beginning with a cable cast-on according to that panel's instructions. Work next panel 1 of your choice, treating the last worked stitch on the needle from bind-off (ending panel 2) as the first slipped/knit stitch. Repeat from \* until piece is as long as you want it (ending with panel 1). · For a loop scarf which wraps around neck twice or a long scarf, recommended length is 50-60 inches / 125-150 cm. > For a cowl, hold it around your neck and stop when you like it. Bind off. If making a cowl or loop scarf, sew ends together (in a moebius loop if you want). Wash and block, stretching lace panels as needed.

Lace panel 1

Row 1: Sl1, p1, yo, k2tog, [p1, k1] three times, yo, sk2p, yo, k1, p1, k1, yo, sk2p, yo, [k1, p1] three times, ssk, yo, p1, k1. Row 2: Sl1, ssk, yo, [p1, k1] twice, k2tog, yo, p5, k1, p5, yo, ssk, [k1, p1] twice, yo, k2tog, p1. Row 3: Sl1, p1, yo, k2tog, p1, k1, p3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, p1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, p3, k1, p1, ssk, yo, p1, k1. Row 4: Sl1, ssk, yo, p1, k1, p1, k2tog, yo,[k1, p5] twice, k1, yo, ssk, p1, k1, p1, yo, k2tog, p1. Row 5: Sl1, p1, yo, k2tog, [p1, k1] twice, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, sk2p, yo, k3, yo, ssk, [k1, p1] twice, ssk, yo, p1, k1. Row 6: Sl1, ssk, yo, p1, k1, k2tog, yo, p6, p2togTBL, yo, p7, yo, ssk, k1, p1, yo, k2tog, p1. Row 7: Sl1, p1, yo, k2tog, p3, k2tog, yo, [k2, yo, ssk] twice, k3, yo, ssk, p3, ssk, yo, p1, k1. Row 8: Sl1, ssk, yo, p1, k2tog, yo, k1, p4, p2togTBL, yo, p9, k1, yo, ssk, p1, yo, k2tog, p1. Row 9: Sl1, p1, yo, k2tog, p1, [k1, k2tog, yo] twice, k1, yo, ssk, k3, yo, ssk, k2, yo, ssk, k1, p1, ssk, yo, p1, k1. Row 10: Sl1, ssk, yo, p1, yo, ssk, p6, yo, p2tog, p9, k2tog, yo, p1, yo, k2tog, p1. Row 11: Sl1, p1, yo, k2tog, p2, k2, yo, ssk, yo, sk2p, yo, k1, k2tog, yo, k3, k2tog, yo, k2, p2, ssk, yo, p1, k1. Row 12: Sl1, ssk, yo, p1, k1, yo, ssk, p1, k1, p5, yo, p2tog, p4, k1, p1, k2tog, yo, k1, p1, yo, k2tog, p1. Row 13: Sl1, p1, yo, k2tog, p1, [k1, p1] twice, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, [p1, k1] twice, p1, ssk, yo, p1, k1. Row 14: Sl1, ssk, yo, p1, k1, p1, yo, ssk, k1, p11, k1, k2tog, yo, p1, k1, p1, yo, k2tog, p1. Row 15: Sl1, p1, yo, k2tog, p1, k1, p3, k1, yo, sk2p, yo, k3, yo, sk2p, yo, k1, p3, k1, p1, ssk, yo, p1, k1. Row 16: Sl1, ssk, yo, [p1, k1] twice, yo, ssk, p11, k2tog, yo, [k1, p1] twice, yo, k2tog, p1. Row 17: Sl1, p1, yo, k2tog, p1, [k1, p1] twice, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, [p1, k1] twice, p1, ssk, yo, p1, k1. Row 18: Sl1, ssk, yo, [p1, k1] twice, k2tog, yo, p11, yo, ssk, [k1, p1] twice, yo, k2tog, p1. Row 19: Sl1, p1, yo, k2tog, p1, k1, p2, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, sk2p, yo, k3, yo, ssk, p2, k1, p1, ssk, yo, p1, k1. Row 20: Sl1, ssk, yo, p1, k1, p1, k2tog, yo, p6, yo, p2tog, p5, yo, ssk, p1, k1, p1, yo, k2tog, p1. Row 21: Sl1, p1, yo, k2tog, p1, k1, p1, k2tog, yo, k3, [k2tog, yo, k2] twice, yo, ssk, p1, k1, p1, ssk, yo, p1, k1. Row 22: Sl1, ssk, yo, p1, k1, k2tog, yo, p9, yo, p2tog, p4, yo, ssk, k1, p1, yo, k2tog, p1. Row 23: Sl1, p1, yo, k2tog, p2, k2tog, yo, k2, k2tog, yo, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1, yo, ssk, p2, ssk, yo, p1, k1. Row 24: Sl1, ssk, yo, p1, k2tog, yo, p9, p2togTBL, yo, p6, yo, ssk, p1, yo, k2tog, p1. Row 25: Sl1, p1, yo, k2tog, p1, [k3, yo, ssk] twice, k1, yo, sk2p, yo, k2tog, yo, k3, p1, ssk, yo, p1, k1. Row 26: Sl1, ssk, yo, p1, yo, ssk, p2, k1, p4, p2togTBL, yo, p5, k1, p2, k2tog, yo, p1, yo, k2tog, p1. Row 27: Sl1, p1, yo, k2tog, p2, k2, [p1, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo] twice, p1, k2, p2, ssk, yo, p1, k1. Row 28: Sl1, ssk, yo, p1, k1, yo, ssk, p1, k1, [p5, k1] twice, p1, k2tog, yo, k1, p1, yo, k2tog, p1. End lace panel 1. Move to panel 2 of your choice.

Trellis panel 1

Row 1: Sl1, [yo, k2tog] to end of row. Row 2: Sl1, purl all to end. Row 3: [Ssk, yo] to last 1 st, k1. Row 4: Sl1, purl all to end. Repeat rows 1-4 until the panel is as long as you'd like it (stopping after a row 2 or 4). Move to panel 2 of your choice (either lace or trellis).

Non-lace panel 1 (linen stitch)

Row 1: K1, [sl1 wyif, k1] to end. Row 2: Sl1 wyif, [p1, sl1 wyib] to last 2 sts, p1, sl1 Wyif. Repeat rows 1-2 until the panel is as long as you'd like it. Move to panel 2 of your choice (either lace or nonlace).

Lace panel 2

(also charted on page 7) Optionally, if you want to keep track of your stitch count, place markers while working row 1, after first p1 and before sk2p. Between markers will always be 14 sts when starting/ finishing each section row. Increases, decreases, and short rows will happen outside the markers. You'll slip markers as follows: All even rows: Sl1, sl marker, work lace panel (over 14 stitches), sl marker, [either k1 or kfb], m1, turn. All odd rows: Sl1, [either p1 or p2], sl marker, work lace panel (over 14 stitches), sl marker, [either sk2p or p2togTBL], turn. Row 16: Sl1, k1, p2tog, yo, p1, k2, p1, yo, [k1, p2tog] twice, yo, p1, k1, m1, turn. Row 17: Sl1, p1, ssk, yo, k1, p1, ssk, yo, k1, p3, ssk, yo, k1, p1, sk2p, turn. Row 18: Sl1, k1, p2tog, yo, p1, k3, yo, p1, p2togTBL, k1, p2tog, yo, p1, kfb, m1, turn. Row 19: Sl1, p2, ssk, yo, k1, yo, p1, ssk, k1, p3, ssk, yo, k1, p1, p2togTBl, turn. Row 20: Sl1, k1, p2tog, yo, p1, k2, p1, p2togTBL, k1, yo, p1, p2tog, yo, p1, k1, m1, turn. Row 21: Sl1, p1, ssk, yo, k1, p1, k1, yo, p1, ssk, k1, p1, ssk, yo, k1, p1, sk2p, turn. Row 22: Sl1, k1, p2tog, yo, p1, k1, p2togTBL, k1, yo, p1, k2, p2tog, yo, p1, kfb, m1, turn. Row 23: Sl1, p2, ssk, yo, k1, p3, k1, yo, k2tog, p1, ssk, yo, k1, p1, p2togTBl, turn. Row 24: Sl1,k1, p2tog, yo, p1, k1, p2tog, p1, yo, k3, p2tog, yo, p1, k1, m1, turn. Row 25: Sl1, p1, ssk, yo, k1, p3, k1, k2tog, yo, p1, ssk, yo, k1, p1, sk2p, turn. Row 26: Sl1, k1, p2tog, yo, p1, yo, k1, p1, p2tog, p1, k2, p2tog, yo, p1, kfb, m1, turn. Row 27: Sl1, p2, ssk, yo, k1, p1, k1, k2tog, k1, p1, yo, k1, ssk, yo, k1, p1, p2togTBl, turn. Row 28: Sl1, k1, p2tog, yo, p3, yo, k1, p1, p2tog, k1, p2tog, yo, p1, k1, m1, turn. Row 29: Sl1, p1, ssk, yo, k1, p1, ssk, p1, k2, yo, k1, ssk, yo, k1, p1, sk2p, turn. Row 30: Sl1,k1, p2tog, yo, p1, yo, p4, p2togTBL, k1, p2tog, yo, p1, kfb, m1, turn. Row 31: Sl1, p2, ssk, yo, k1, p1, yo, ssk, k3, p1, ssk, yo, k1, p1, p2togTBl, turn. Row 32: Sl1, k1, p2tog, yo, p1, k1, p2, p2togTBL, p1, k1, yo, p2tog, yo, p1, k1, m1, turn. Row 33: Sl1, p1, ssk, yo, k2, yo, p1, k1, ssk, k1, p1, ssk, yo, k1, p1, sk2p, turn. Row 34: Sl1, k1, p2tog, yo, p1, k1, p2togTBL, p1, k1, yo, p2, p2tog, yo, p1, kfb, m1, turn. Row 35: Sl1, p2, ssk,[yo, k2] twice, p1, k2tog, p1, ssk, yo, k1, p1, p2togTBl, turn. Row 36: Sl1, k1, p2tog, yo, p1, k1, p2tog, p4, yo, p2tog, yo, p1, k1, m1, turn. Row 37: Sl1, p1, ssk, yo, k5, k2tog, yo, p1, ssk, yo, k1. p1, sk2p. (That should have decreased the final sts.) Bind off 15 sts (purl-wise), so that a total of 29 sts remain (including st on working needle from bind-off)

Trellis panel 2

Set-up cast-on: Cast on 18 sts with a cable cast-on. (or any other even number for a different width). Setup row: P2, place markerA, k1, [yo, k2tog] up to first newly cast-on st, place markerB, sk2p, turn. Row 1: Sl1, sl markerB, purl to markerA, sl markerA, k1, m1, turn. Row 2: Sl1, p1, sl markerA, [ssk, yo] to last 1 st before markerB, k1, sl markerB, p2togTBL, turn. Row 3: Sl1, sl markerB, purl to markerA, sl markerA, k1, m1, turn. Row 4: Sl1, p1, sl markerA, k1, [yo, k2tog] to markerB, sl markerB, ssk, turn. Repeat rows 1-4 until reaching an even number row which decreases the final sts, so all sts are worked. Bind off purl-wise 2 fewer sts than the number you cast on, so that a total of 29 sts remain, including st on working needle from bind-off. Move to panel 1 of your choice (either lace or trellis).

Non-lace panel 2 (seed stitch)

Set-up cast-on: Cast on 17 sts with a cable cast-on. (or any other odd number for a different width). Setup row: P2, place markerA, [k1, p1] up to first newly cast-on st, place markerB, sk2p, turn. Row 1: Sl1, sl markerB, [p1, k1] to markerA, sl markerA, kfb, m1, turn. Row 2: Sl1, p2, sl markerA, [k1, p1] to markerB, sl markerB, p2togTBL, turn. Row 3: Sl1, sl markerB, [p1, k1] to markerA, sl markerA, k1, m1, turn. Row 4: Sl1, p1, sl markerA, [k1, p1] to markerB, sl markerB, sk2p, turn. Repeat rows 1-4 until reaching an even number row which decreases the final sts, so all sts are worked. Bind off purl-wise 2 fewer sts than the number you cast on, so that a total of 29 sts remain, including st on working needle from bind-off. Move to panel 1 of your choice (either lace or nonlace). Panel 2 process photos (lace panel)

(other photos)

k2tog = knit 2 together p2tog = purl 2 together p2togTBL = purl 2 together through back loops, by bringing needle upwards through both stitches, second stitch first ssk = slip, slip, knit slipped stitches together sk2p = slip, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over m1 = make 1, by picking up the strand between needle points from front to back, and kfb = knit into front then into back of stitch

LeethaI Knits patterns!

If you liked this pattern, be sure to check out other patterns by Lee Meredith, most of which are for any gauge and/or super versatile like this one. See them all on leethalknits.com, or queue them on ravelry! Here are a few you might like...

< Either/Or mitts can be made in any weight yarn, fingerless or full mittens from the thumbs out Betiko is an any-gauge, anysize, completely customizable shawl > < Robin is a stripy shawl in 2 or 3 colors, in any weight & size

Skoodlet is an any-gauge hood with a buttoning scarflet < Parallel Lines moebius loop scarf can be made in any weight yarn

Color by Number cowls, mitts, headbands, and blankets are worked modularly with no stranded knitting or intarsia > < Pigment is a slip-stitch colorwork asymmetrical triangle shawl for any weight

Maurice is a stripy cowl in several different styles and sizes >