Cordillera (knit version) by DeviousRose
Pattern pages: http:/www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/cordilera-knit-version

Size: Clue 3 is repeatable until you are happy or yarn runs out! Leave enough yarn for 1 more row + a stretchy cast-off(or enough for 3 rows) . Gauge: 14 stitches x 20 rows = 4 inches/10 cm square in stockinette stitch. Shawlette will need to be somewhat drapey, but a tighter gauge or larger yarn & needles is okay so long as your work is flexible. You wil just get a cozier item. If you use finer needles or finer yarn, you will get a more delicate item.
Materials:
- 3 colours of at least 109 yards each DK yarn or other weight that works with your hook or needles. I used 3 skeins Mirasol Llama Una, 100% llama, 109 yards/50 grams, in Gull, Gold, and Forest
Notes:
-You willbegin and end each row with 2 knit selvedge stitches. For the spine, you will knit through the back loop on the right side and purl on the right side. Only one side of the charts are shown. orking 3 colours, a blank set of chart and written instructions -Read ALL instructions before beginning each section if you have never made a shawl before! Instructions are notrepeated -ON THE MAIN CHART, 1 stitch repeat= full chart, 1 PATTERN repeat= 1 block of 3 colours. If you are working more or less than 3 colours, 1 colour block= 1 pattern repeat. A BLANK CHART & WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS FOR THOSE NOT WORKING 3 COLOURS IS INCLUDED AT THE END, ON PAGES 4 AND 5. -You can knit until your yarn runs out! Leave enough yarn for 1 more row + a stretchy cast-off (or enough for 3 rows).
Foothills- Tassels (originally Clue 1):
When I made this, I had 2 yards per yarn leff. Luckily, I made tassels before starting. Tassels add an elegantly bohemian look to the piece. We will make three 6 in/15.25 cm tassels and set them aside until after blocking.
Tassel Materials:
- a 6 in/15 cm wide notebook or other surface -scissors - your chosen yarns - place to store the tassels- I used a ziploc baggie
Making the tassels:
Each tassel has 3 strands per colour. If you are using 2 colours or 1, instructions for those are written in parentheses, e.g. Each tassel has 3 (2, 1) colours. 1) Using thumb or forefinger, clasp one end of the yarn just past the base of the notebook.

2) wind the yarn around the notebook 9 (18, 27) times. Avoid criss-crossing the yarn or winding it far apart or the tassels will be different lengths.

http://www.ravelry.com/designers/deviousrose 3) Cut the yarn across on the same side where you began winding. Ignore the llama fibers caught on my fingers.

4) Sort into tassels by making 3 piles of 3 (6. 9) strands each.

5) Repeat for each colour you have. I tied scrap yarn around the center of each tassel to keep it together, then placed them in a ziploc baggie which I placed in my project bag.
Ascent & Peak- Setup & Main Charts (originally Clues 2 & 3)
You will begin and end each row with a k2. For the spine, you will ktbl on the RS and purl on the ws. Neither the spine nor the k2 sts are in the chart or written instructions. Only one side of the shawl is charted. Each RS row should be worked as k2, yo, instructions, yo, sl m, kbtl, sl m, yo, instructions, yo, k2, and each ws row as k2, instructions, sl m, p1, sl m, instructions, k2.
Garter-tab cast on:
Setup Chart written instructions (only written for one side of spine- you will need to work each row 2x): Instructions do NOT include spine or edge k2 In Colour A: Row 1: Yo, k4, yo. 17 sts Row 2: P6 Row 3: Yo, k2tog, \*yo, k1\* 2x, k2tog, yo. 21 sts Row 4: Knit. In Colour B: Row 5: Yo, knit, yo. 25 sts Row 6: Purl. Row 7: Yo, k2, k2tog, \*yo, k1\* 2x, k2tog, k2, yo. 29 sts Row 8: Knit. In Colour C: Row 9: Yo, knit, yo. 33 sts Row 10: Purl. Row 11: Yo, k1, k2tog, k2tog, \*yo, k1\* 4x, k2tog, k2tog, kl, yo. 37 sts. Row 12: Knit. Main Chart written instructions (only for one side of spine & do not include spine or edge stitches): In Colour A: Row 1: Yo, k across, yo. Row 2: Purl. Row 3: Yo, Old Shale, yo. Row 4: Knit. In Colour B: Row 5: Yo, k across, yo. Row 6: Purl. Row 7: Yo, k2, Old Shale, k2, yo. Row 8: Knit. In Colour C: Row 9: Yo, k across, yo. Row 10: Purl. Row 11: Yo, k4, Old Shale, k4, yo. Row 12: Knit. 1 patt repeat worked, 1/3 of stitch repeat worked In Colour A: Row 13: Yo, k across, yo. Row 14: Purl. Row 15: Yo, k6, Old Shale, k6, yo. Row 16: Knit. In Colour B: Row 17: Yo, k across, yo. Row 18: Purl. Row 19: Yo, k8, Old Shale, k8, yo. Row 20: Knit. In Colour C: Row 21: Yo, k across, yo. Row 22: Purl. Row 23: Yo, k1, \*yo, k1\* 3x, k2tog 3x, Old Shale, k2tog 3x, \*yo, k1\* 3x, kl, yo. Row 24: Knit. 2 patt repeats worked, 2/3 of stitch repeat workec In Colour A: Row 25: Yo, k across, yo. Row 26: Purl. Row 27: Yo, k3, \*yo, k1\* 3x, k2tog 3x, Old Shale, k2tog 3x, \*yo, k1\* 3x, k3, yo. Row 28: Knit. In Colour B: Row 29: Yo, k across, yo. Row 30: Purl. Row 31: Yo, k5, \*yo, k1\* 3x, k2tog 3x, Old Shale, k2tog 3x, \*yo, k1\* 3x, k5, yo. Row 32: Knit. In Colour C: Row 33: Yo, k across, yo. Row 34: Purl. Row 35: Yo, k7, \*yo, k1\* 3x, k2tog 3x, Old Shale, k2tog 3x, \*yo, k1\* 3x, k7, yo. Row 36: Knit. 3 patt repeats worked, 1 stitch repeat worked You can knit the Main Chart until your yarn runs out! Leave enough yarn for 1 more row + a stretchy cast-off (or enough for 3 rows). If you are using fine yarn, such as a lace weight, you will have to do more repeats to get a good length and wingspan. Mine was just large enough to use as a full-size shawl, after severe blocking. Old Shale (boxed in red on Main Chart): Workedover18sts Row 1 (RS): Knit Row 2 (wS): Purl Row 3: K2tog 3x, \*yo, k1\* 6x, k2tog 3x. when the written says "Old Shale," they refer only to this row. Row 4: Knit.
of times to repeat Old Shale per CHART repeat
(written Rows 1-36): 1st rep- 1x 2nd rep-3x 3rd rep- 5x (l stopped after 1 colour block here) 4th rep- 7x 5th rep- 9x

# times to rep Old Shale (boxed in red) per CHART rep (Chart, or Rows 1-36):
Ist rep- 1x 2nd rep-3x 3rd rep- 5x (l stopped hre after 1 colour block ) 4th rep- 7x 5th rep- 9x 6th rep- 11x WkIlIEn LHaRI rur KEbELs (ony ior One SIae Ol spine & does not include spine or edge stitches In Colour -: Row 1: Yo, k across, yo. Row 2: Purl. Row 3: Yo, Old Shale, yo. Row 4: Knit. In Colour _ Row 5: Yo, k across, yo. Row 6: Purl. Row 7: Yo, k2, Old Shale, k2, yo. Row 8: Knit. In Colour _ Row 9: Yo, k across, yo. Row 10: Purl. Row 11: Yo, k4, Old Shale, k4, yo. Row 12: Knit. In Colour _ Row 13: Yo, k across, yo. Row 14: Purl. Row 15: Yo, k6, Old Shale, k6, yo. Row 16: Knit. In Colour _ Row 17: Yo, k across, yo. Row 18: Purl. Row 19: Yo, k8, Old Shale, k8, yo. Row 20: Knit. In Colour _ Row 21: Yo, k across, yo. Row 22: Purl. Row 23: Yo, k1, \*yo, k1\* 3x, k2tog 3x, Old Shale, k2tog 3x, \*yo, k1\* 3x, k1, yo. Row 24: Knit. In Colour _ : Row 25: Yo, k across, yo. Row 26: Purl. Row 27: Yo, k3, \*yo, k1\* 3x, k2tog 3x, Old Shale, k2tog 3x, \*yo, k1\* 3x, k3, yo. Row 28: Knit. In Colour _ Row 29: Yo, k across, yo. Row 30: Purl. Row 31: Yo, k5, \*yo, k1\* 3x, k2tog 3x, Old Shale, k2tog 3x, \*yo, k1\* 3x, k5, yo. Row 32: Knit. In Colour _ Row 33: Yo, k across, yo. Row 34: Purl. Row 35: Yo, k7, \*yo, k1\* 3x, k2tog 3x, Old Shale, k2tog 3x, \*yo, k1\* 3x, k7, yo. Row 36: Knit.
Return to the Village (originally Clue 4):
End after a full colour block from Clue 3. Knit 1 row. Cast off using lace cast off: K2, \*insert left needle into both sts on right needle, k2tog, kl,\* until all sts cast off.
Finishing:
Weave in ends and wet block. If using delicate fiber such as alpaca, pin to dimensions and mist until damp. You must block lace for its full effect. Even light blocking flattens the lace, opens yarnovers, and evens out differences in gauge. If you've never blocked a shawl(ette) before, see http://www.yarnharlot.ca/blog/archives/2005/08/2 3/walk_around_the_block.html. In order to let the waves flow, I only pinned the three triangle points.
Attaching the tassels:
Now comes the exciting part! Grab a crochet hook, 6.00 mm or bigger, depending on your yarn weight. 1) with Rs facing, even ands out and align everything. For the top corners, pull the tassel's center through the space at the edge:


2) Make the ends even one last time: 3) Pull tassel through itself:


4) And tighten:

Back of tassel: Repeat for the other points. For the bottom point of the shawl, pull through the space right below the spine stitch between the last worked row and the border or cast off row. If you're fiddly about your tassels laying flat, I "blocked" mine by dipping just the tassels in warm, soapy water, rinsing them until clear, and letting them dry. Wear or gift with pride!