Wise Hilda's Basic Ribbed Sock
More interesting and better fitting than a plain sock, but not so interesting that you have to pay attention. This sock design was developed as a solution to two problems: socks with a plain stocking-stitch leg can fall down, and I find kl/p1 ribbing very tedious.
Sizes
Women's S (shoe size 5-7), Women's M (shoe size 7/2-9), Women's L (shoe size 91/z+), Men's S (shoe size 6-9), Men's L (shoe size 91/2+)
Materials
100 gm/400m fingering weight sock yarn 1 set 2.5 mm needles - dpns, two circulars or a long circular as you prefer 1 stitch holder (optional)
Gauge
32 sts, unstretched, across 4 inches/10cm in (k3, p1) rib with 2.5mm needles.
Glossary
ssk: slip 2 sts, one by one, knitwise, insert left needle into the fronts of these two slipped sts, and knit them together.
METHOD Cuff
Cast 56 (60, 64, 64, 68) sts onto a single needle. Distribute sts evenly across your needles as you prefer. Join for working in the round, being careful not to twist. Ribbing Round: \*K3, pl; repeat from \* to end of round. Repeat Ribbing Round until sock measures 17 (18, 20, 20, 20) cm/6.5 (7, 8, 8, 8) inches.
Turn Heel
This portion is worked flat. Heel flap row 1 (RS): K 27 (27, 31, 31, 35). Put remaining 29 (33, 33, 33, 33) sts onto a holder if desired. Turn s0 that Ws' is facing. Heel flap row 2 (wS): Slip 1, p 26 (26, 30, 30, 34), turn. Heel flap row 3 (RS): Slip 1, k 26 (26, 30, 30, 34), turn. Heel flap row 4 (WS): Slip 1, p 26 (26, 30, 30, 34), turn. Repeat the last 2 rows 9 (10, 11, 11, 12) more times. RS is facing for next row. Heel turn row 1 (RS): Knit 18 (18, 21, 21, 23) sts, ssk, turn. Heel turn row 2 (WS): Slip 1, purl 9 (9, 11, 11, 11) sts, p2tog, turn. Heel turn row 3 (RS): Slip 1, knit 9 (9, 11, 11, 11) sts, ssk, turn. Heel turn row 4 (Ws): Slip 1, purl 9 (9, 11, 11, 11) sts, p2tog, turn. vo rows until all sts have been worked. 11 (11, 13, 13, 13) sts remain, and RS is facing
Re-establish Round and Create Gusset
Knit all heel sts. Using that same needle, pick up and knit 15 (16, 17, 17, 18) sts along selvedge edge at side of heel, using slipped sts as a guide. With a new needle, work in rib pattern across the 29 (33, 33, 33, 33) sts of instep - those sts that you'd set aside on the stitch holder. Using another new needle, pick up and knit 15 (16, 17, 17, 18) sts along selvedge edge at other side of heel, using slipped sts as a guide. Work 6 (6, 7, 7, 7) sts from the first needle, to the center of the heel. The beginning of the round is now at the center of the heel. If you're working on two circulars or magic loop, place a marker in this position. There should be 20 (21, 23, 23, 24) sts between the start of the round and the start of the instep, 29 (33, 33, 33, 33) stitches on the instep, and 21 (22, 24, 24, 25) between the end of the instep and the end of the round. 70 (76, 80, 80, 82) sts total. Rearrange the stitches if you need to. If you're working on dpns, those first 20 (21, 23, 23, 24) sts should be on your first needle, the instep sts on your second needle, and the other 21 (22, 24, 24, 25) sts on the third. If you're working on two circulars or magic loop, the instep sts should be on one needle, and the other stitches on a second needle, with a marker for the start of the round at the mid-point. From here on in, the 29 (33, 33, 33, 33) instep sts will be worked in the rib pattern, and the gusset and sole will be worked in stocking stitch - that is, knitting every round.
Decrease Gusset
Gusset setup round: K5 (5, 6, 6, 6), ktbl 15 (16, 17, 17, 18), work across the instep sts in pattern as established, ktbl 15 (16, 17, 17, 18), k to end of round. K to 2 sts before instep, k2tog, work across instep sts in pattern, ssk, k to end of roun eping ribbing pattern on instep. Repeat these last two rounds until there are 13 (13, 15, 15, 17) sts between the start of the round and the instep, and there are 14 (14, 16, 16, 18) sts between end of instep and end of round. 56 (60, 64, 64, 68) sts total.
Foot
Work until foot measures 16.5 (18, 19, 19, 21) cm/6.5 (7, 7.5, 7.5, 8.5) inches, or 6 cm/2.5 inches less than foot length. (Note that the finished sock should be a little shorter than the foot. This makes for a better fit.)
Shape Toe
From here on in, you'll work entirely in stocking stitch. Rearrange the sts so that you've got 28 (30, 32, 32, 34) on the sole and 28 (30, 32, 32, 34) on the instep. If you're working on two circulars or magic loop, you will have the same number on each needle; if you're working on dpns, divide the stitches of the sole evenly across two needles. Toe decrease round: Knit to three stitches before start of instep, k2tog, k2, ssk; k to 3 sts before end of instep, k2tog, k2, ssk, k to end of round. Work a decrease round followed by 2 even rounds, twice. [6 rounds total] Work a decrease round followed by 1 even round, three times. [6 rounds total] Work decrease rounds until 8 stitches remain. To finish, cut yarn, draw through the final stitches and tighten. Weave in ends.
