Now start increasing again: Row 1: K16, K next st tog with its wrap, YF, S1, turn Row 2: YF, S1, P17, purl the next st tog with its wrap, YB, S1, turn You are in fact "reactivating" one st per row as well as rewrapping the following st; this will give you a nice firm heel without any seams on the inside for comfort) Row 3: YB, K18, K next st tog with its wraps, YF, S1, turn Row 4: YF, S1, P19, purl next st tog with its wraps, YB, S1, turn Continue as set until you have reactivated all 24 wrapped sts, ending with a P row.
Leg
You will now start knitting in the round again. If you placed the sts from needles 1 and 2 on a stitch holder or scrap yarn, transfer them back onto the needles. Round 1: K chart row 3 across the foot, K across needles 3 and 4. Work 7 more rounds like this, until you've completed the round that starts with row 10 of the chart. In the following round, work row 1 from the chart across needles 1 and 2. Then knit needles 3 and 4 as follows: K1, PM, K2, YO, K2tog, YO, K5, YO, K2tog, YO, K5, YO, K2, YO, K2tog, K1, YO, K2tog, YO, K5, YO, K2tog, YO, K5, YO, K2, YO, K1, PM, K1 - the markers denote the start and finish of a chart repeat across the back of the heel. From this point, you knit one chart row across the front of the leg, then K1, move the marker, knit a repeat of the same chart row across the back of the leg, move marker, K1. Knit as many repeats of the chart as you like. The socks in the picture have 5 repeats. Once you are happy with the leg length, knit 2 more rounds, working rows 1 and 2 of the chart, but this time, omit the YO's that have been marked in the chart with a little \* underneath. This means that the stitches immediately above those YO's in row 2 aren't there, so instead of knitting a stretch of 17 sts, you knit a stretch of 13 sts between the lattice sections. Remove the markers in your last round. You'll finish this last round with 76 sts.
Cuff
Work the next 20 rounds in a K1, P1 rib. Cast off using your preferred style. Finish your sock by weaving in the ends.
Soliloquy Lace Socks
Soliloquy, a blend of soft merino and shimmery silk is a very fine high twist 4-ply yarn, strong enough to knit socks with but much finer than most of the sock yarns currently available (it has 600 m per 100 gr hank, compared to most sock yarns at 350 - 400 m). To still achieve a firm sock fabric, it is knitted using finer needles.
These socks are knitted from the toe up, using a provisional caston, so there is no need to graft the toes. The instructions for a provisional cast-on are in the pattern.
Aboul chis paltern
Difficulty: Measurements: Materials: Metreage: Tension: Intermediate lace The number of stitches used is suitable to knit socks of sizes 3-4 and up 60 grams of Tall Yarns Soliloquy sock yarn (600 metres per 100 gr hank) Approx. 400 metres 40 sts and 56 rows measure 10 x 10 cm in stocking stitch One set (5) of 2.0 mm needles (if necessary, use bigger or smaller to achieve the right gauge) One fine crochet hook (approx. 3 mm) Optional: 1 stitch holder and 2 stitch markers Notions:
Abbrevialions
Dpn = double pointed needle, st = stitch, sts = stitches, K = knit, P = purl, RS = right side, Ws = wrong side, M1 = make 1 st by picking up the loop between the st you've just knitted and the next one and knitting it through the back loop (tbl), YO = yarnover, by bringing the yarn forward between the needles and following it with a knit stitch, PM = place marker, K2tog = knit 2 together, PSsO = pass slipped stitch over YF = yarn forward, by passing it through between the needles, YB = yarn back, by passing it through between the needles
Stitches
Stocking stitch: (st.st.) K on RS, P on WS Rib: K2, P2 Leaf & Lattice: a variation on "no. 50", a 10 row repeat lace pattern from Knitting Lace by Susanna E Lewis
Paltern
Toe
With an end of waste 4-ply yarn, crochet a chain of about 20 sts. Pull the loop of the last st a bit bigger, so it does not unravel while you start your sock. with one of the 2.0 mm DPNs, pick up 12 of the loops that form on the back of the crochet sts. These are your provisional sts. Start knitting with your Soliloquy yarn. After the 4th row, remove the provisional cast on by pulling out the chain of crochet sts one by one. Once you get to the start of your knitting, each crochet st you remove will free up one st to pick up on a second DPN (when finished, you have a small piece of knitting with a dpn holding 12 sts at each end). You will now start knitting in the round, as follows: On the side that has your working thread hanging from it, K1, M1, K5 Pick up another dpn, K5, M1, K1 You now have 2 needles on one side of the work and still 1 needle on the other side. Proceeding with this side, K1, M1, K5 Pick up your last needle, K5, M1, K1 You now have 4 needles evenly divided in your work, one working needle, and the start of the toe of your sock. K 1 round. Round 2: \*K2, M1, K10, M1, K2, repeat from \* Round 3: K Repeat rounds 2 and 3 until you have 80 sts on your needles, 20 per needle. K 2 more rounds without increases.
Foot
From this point onwards, your needles are numbered. The first 2 needles of any round are 1 and 2, the other 2 are 3 and 4. For the foot, you will knit the lace pattern with needles 1 and 2 (top of the foot). You will knit st.st. with needles 3 and 4 (the instep). Start knitting the chart with needles 1 and 2. The first time you knit row 1, just knit the last st (instead of K2tog). The rest of the row is unchanged.
As a guideline, every repeat of the 10 row chart increases the sock by 1 shoe size. For a size 6, work the chart a total of 7 times. For a size 7, 8 times, etc. Once you have reached the correct number of repeats for the size you are knitting to, knit 2 more rounds (working chart rows 1 and 2. Now you will start the short-row heel.
Heel
If you prefer, you can transfer the sts from needles 1 and 2 onto a stitchholder or a scrap piece of yarn. The heel is worked knitting with needles 3 and 4 only. Row 1: K39, YF, S1, turn. Row 2: YF (by passing in between the needles -this will wrap the yarn around the slipped stitch), S1, P38, YB, S1, turn Row 3: YB, S1, K37, YF, S1, turn Row 4: YF, S1, P36, YB, S1, turn Note: the wrapped sts look like they are each wearing a snug scarf. It takes a bit of practice, but it gets easier! Continue wrapping sts as set (i.e. knitting and purling one st less in each subsequent row) until you have 12 wrapped sts, followed by 16 "live" sts and then another 12 wrapped sts. The row where you purl 16 is your last row. This is the first half of your heel!
