Green Lantern Corps Scarf
Errata
I will update these instructions whenever necessary and list the revisions in a separate file.
Notes
Size
Length: 2.75 m (9 ft) Width: 24 stitches; approximately 14.5 cm (5.75 in) Gauge: 26 rows and 17 stitches per 4 in Number of emblems: 27
Time
About a month (one emblem per day)
Yarn
Bernat Super Value worsted acrylic; 197 g (7 oz), or approximately 389 m (426 yd), per skein One each of: · "Deep Sea Green" (dark green; appears black under dim or artificial light) ·"Kelly" (bright green) I had about enough yarn left over for one more emblem.
Equipment
Two US #5 (3.75 mm; UK/Canada #9) straight needles Two double-pointed needles the same diameter as your straight needles One yarn needle (like a sewing needle, but blunt) Stitch markers (not necessary, but convenient)
Techniques
Cable cast-on Double-knitting Kitchener stitch ("grafting") bind-off Duplicate stitch (stockinette)
Abbreviations
DPN Double-pointed needle K# Knit # stitches P# Purl # stitches MC Main Colour (light green in the photographs) CC Counter Colour (dark green in the photographs) FC Facing Colour (ie, of the first four and last four stitches of the facing side) OC Opposite Colour (ie, of the first four and last four stitches of the opposite side) #.A Work # times: K1 with FC, then P1 with OC #.B Work # times: K1 with OC, then P1 with FC MC and CC are constant, while A and B depend on which side of the scarf faces you as youwork.
Stitch markers
To help keep track of where to switch between A and B, you might like to use split rings or other stitch markers at key points on your needles. Put the markers on the needles, not on the yarn. With each row, when you reach one of these markers, simply slip it to the new needle.
Placement of emblems
I began with the Green Lantern emblem on a circle background. Then I alternated between plain and circle backgrounds, finishing on a circle. Toward the end — in position 23 of 27, on a circle background — I substituted an F-Sharp Bell for one of the Green Lantern emblems. Important: The top and bottom halves of the bell are not mirror-images. To ensure that the bell would not be upside-down when worn, I set it near one end of the scarf, with the bell's base pointing toward that end.
Yarn ends
When it's time to finish your work, a tail that is longer than necessary is less of a hassle to deal with than one that is too short. You can always cut off the excess once you've worked in the ends.
Instructions
With your straight needles, cast on 48 stitches of MC using chain stitch. Leave a tail of about 45 cm (18 in) to weave in later. With MC only, do two rows of K1 P1, repeating this pattern until the end of each row. Prepare to add the CC. Leave a tail of about 45 cm (18 in) to weave in later. When you are using both colours, twist the two working ends about each other at the start of each row. This prevents the two layers of the scarf from separating at the edges. Small spots of contrasting colour will occasionally appear along an edge; gently poke these into the scarf so that they are no longer visible. Do four rows entirely in A (K1 FC, P1 OC). Start each knit stitch with both working ends behind the needles and each purl stitch with both working ends in front of the needles. After each row, turn the work around; A becomes B, and vice-versa. Begin "Green Lantern emblem on circle background". Row 1 of this pattern reads "8.A 8.B 8.A". Start this like the previous rows — K1 FC, P1 OC — but only for the first eight stitches. Then change the order of the next eight stitches by doing K1 OC, P1 FC eight times. Finish the first row of the emblem by doing K1 FC, P1 OC eight times. Turn the work and do the sequence for the second row of the emblem (7.A 10.B 7.A). Continue with the pattern for "Green Lantern emblem on circle background". When you have finished the last row of the emblem, add a separator, which is five rows entirely of A. You still need to twist the two strands at the start of each row. Do "Green Lantern emblem on plain background". Work another five rows of A. Continue like this (circle emblem, separator, plain emblem, separator) until the scarf is the length you want. Substitute an F-Sharp Bell for a Green Lantern wherever you feel like it. When you have finished your final emblem, do four rows of A instead of the usual five rows. Using MC only, do three rows of K1 P1. Do not twist the two colours around each other anymore. If you are using stitch markers, drop them of the needle as you work the third row. When you have finished the third row of MC, set down the empty straight needle. Hold the remaining needle in your right hand, with the point to the left and the blunt end to the right. In your left hand, hold the two double-pointed needles side-by-side. Slip one stitch, as if to purl, from the straight needle to the DPN that is closest to you. Slip the next stitch from the straight needle to the DPN that is farthest from you. Continue alternating like this until half of the stitches are on each DPN. Turn the work around. Leaving a tail of about 90 cm (3 ft), cut the MC. Leaving a tail of about 45 cm (18 in), cut the CC. Thread the MC onto a yarn needle. The MC should trail from the rightmost stitch of the far DPN. If it trails from the rightmost stitch of the near DPN instead, insert the yarn needle as if to knit into the rightmost stitch of the far DPN and pull the yarn through the stitch, leaving the stitch on the DPN. Use Kitchener stitch to graft the two parallel sets of stitches together. Weave in the yarn ends using duplicate stitch. Once you have secured a yarn end with enough duplicate stitches, tuck its remaining length between the two layers of the scarf.
Charts
arts are for reference only. They do not appear in the finished scar Tables show repeated rows in bold. For high-resolution versions of these charts, download Green Lantern Corps doubleknitting charts.
Green Lantern emblem on circle background
| Row # | Colour Sequence | |||
| 1 | 6.A | 8.A 8.B 7.A 10.B 6.A 12.B 1.B 10.A | 8.A 7.A 6.A 1.B 6.A | |
| 2 | ||||
| 3 4-5 | ||||
| 6 | ||||
| 5.A 5.A | 2.B 10.A 4.B 6.A | 2.B 4.B | 5.A 5.A | |
| 7 | 5.A 4.B | 2.A 2.B | 2.A | 4.B 5.A |
| 8 | 4.A 4.B | 2.A 4.B | 2.A | 4.B 4.A |
| 9 | 4.A 3.B | 3.A 4.B | 3.A | 3.B 4.A |
| 10 11-13 | 4.A 3.B | 2.A 6.B | 2.A | 3.B 4.A |
| 14 | 4.A 3.B | 3.A 4.B | 3.A | 3.B 4.A |
| 15 | 4.A 4.B | 2.A 4.B | 2.A | 4.B 4.A |
| 5.A 4.B | 2.A 2.B | 2.A | 4.B 5.A | |
| 16 17 | 5.A | 4.B 6.A | 4.B | 5.A |
| 18 | 5.A | 2.B 10.A | 2.B | 5.A |
| 19-20 | 6.A | 1.B 10.A | 1.B | 6.A |
| 21 | 6.A 12.B | 6.A | ||
| 7.A 10.B | 7.A | |||
| 22 | ||||
| 23 | 8.A 8.B | 8.A | ||
Green Lantern emblem on plain background
| Row# | ColourSequence |
| 1-3 | 7.A 10.B 7.A |
| 4 | 9.A 6.B 9.A |
| 5 | 9.A 2.B 2.A 2.B 9.A |
| 6 | 8.A 2.B 4.A 2.B 8.A |
| 7 | 7.A 3.B 4.A 3.B 7.A |
| 8-10 | 7.A 2.B 6.A 2.B 7.A |
| 11 | 7.A 3.B 4.A 3.B 7.A |
| 12 | 8.A 2.B 4.A 2.B 8.A |
| 13 | 9.A 2.B 2.A 2.B 9.A |
| 14 | 9.A 6.B 9.A |
| 15-17 | 7.A 10.B 7.A |
F-Sharp Bell emblem on circle background
| Row# | Colour Sequence |
| 1 | 8.A 8.B 8.A |
| 2 | 7.A 10.B 7.A |
| 3 | 6.A 12.B 6.A |
| 4-5 | 6.A 2.B 8.A 2.B 6.A |
| 6 | 5.A 3.B 8.A 3.B 5.A |
| 7-8 | 5.A 5.B 4.A 5.B 5.A |
| 9-11 | 4.A 5.B 6.A 5.B 4.A |
| 12-15 | 4.A 4.B 8.A 4.B 4.A |
| 16 | 5.A 3.B 8.A 3.B 5.A |
| 17-18 | 5.A 2.B 10.A 2.B 5.A |
| 19 | 6.A 1.B 10.A 1.B 6.A |
| 20 | 6.A 4.B 4.A 4.B 6.A |
| 21 | 6.A 5.B 2.A 5.B 6.A |
| 22 | 7.A 10.B 7.A |
| 23 | 8.A 8.B 8.A |
F-Sharp Bell emblem on plain background
| Row# | Colour Sequence | |
| 1-3 | 8.A | 8.B 8.A |
| 4-5 | 10.A | 4.B 10.A |
| 6-8 | 9.A 6.B | 9.A |
| 9-13 | 8.A | 8.B 8.A |
| 14-16 | 7.A | 10.B 7.A |
| 17 | 10.A | 4.B 10.A |
| 18 | 11.A 2.B | 11.A |
Contact
If you use this pattern, I'd be very happy to hear from you! My address is ermpirdornarx@shaw.ca, without the letter "r". Posted on June 16, 2011.Last updated on June 19, 2011. This web page is copyright @ 2011 by Gordon Smith. All rights reserved. You may print this web page for your own personal use. All other forms of redistribution, including all commercial uses, are prohibited. "Green Lantern", "Green Lantern Corps", and "F-Sharp Bell" are the property of DC Comics.
