Special Olympics Inspired Knitting Pattern: Reversible Scarf Design with Double Knitting Technique

Special Olympics Logo Scarf

by Peggy Jean Kaylor

This design was inspired by my own son's involvement in Special Olympics - when he was young and there were no team sports programs in our town for an autistic child to become involved in. I have met many Special Olympics athletes over the years and I think almost every one of them would love to own a scarf like this one. Happy knitting everyone!

Materials:

\* Red Heart Ltd. Super Saver Solids, 100% acrylic, worsted weight yarn: about % skein each of #0319 cherry red and #0311 white (or use whatever colors are designated for the State or National Special Olympics Games you are knitting to support). Size US 10 knitting needles.

Notes:

\* I recommend use of the long-tail cast on method for this scarf. Be sure to work it snugly but not tightly and you want to stretch it to its max when you finish. This stretching will make it more closely match the width of the bind off edge. I do not recommend use of the single or backward loop cast on methods for this scarf. It would definitely look quite different from the bind off edge and have lots more stretch, resulting in a scarf with one end that is much wider than the other. + Ilearned to do doubleknitting from Barbara G. Walker's Treasury of Knitting Patterns, volume 1. Then I borrowed an Elizabeth Zimmerman book (l don't remember which one) from a friend and explored the use of doubleknitting techniques further. This was at least seven years ago. When designing this scarf, I did not revisit these reference materials, but instead just doodled out the design as my imperfect memory directed in order to get the red motif inserted into the white doubleknit background on both sides of the fabric, perfectly and reversibly aligned. My approach makes the fabric more susceptible to uneven puckering from stranding too tightly, but I found that with a little practice, this is easily overcome. + I don't usually mess with my edges by slipping stitches but I know that many knitters do. Karen Zander in Minnesota, who tested this pattern, says the non-doubleknit sections look as good with that type of edge as with the garter stitch selvedge that I use. So ...if you know how to do a slipped edge and prefer it, go for it with my blessing. It's all good!

Gauge:

Make a gauge swatch using size US 10 needles and either color. CO 17 and work 28 rows of the broken garter stitch pattern {work each row: k 1, p 3, (k 3, p 3) 2 times, k 1}: 15 stitches & 24 rows = 4 inches. Adjust needle size, if needed, to achieve gauge . but remember that this is a scarf and a difference in gauge will not affect fit.

Abbreviations:

BO bind off in established stitch pattern co cast on using the long-tail' cast on method kknit kfb increase 1 by knitting into both the front and back of the stitch before sliding it off the left needle ppurl pfb increase 1 by knitting into both the front and back of the stitch before sliding it off the left needle Rcherry red sl1p slip 1 purl-wise ssk slip 2 stitches knit-wise, reinsert left needle as if to knit 2 together and knit 2 together ssp slip 2 stitches knit-wise, reinsert left needle as if to knit 2 together and slip the 2 stitches back onto the left needle, then purl 2 together Wwhite wyif with yarn in front

Instructions:

Row12 Kfb, pfb 3 times, (kfb 3 times, pfb 3 times) 3 times, kfb. (46 sts) Cut R, attach w. The next section is worked using a doubleknitting technique and Chart A. You work only half of the stitches on each row by slipping every other stitch unworked - so to complete one row of fabric, you have to work across, turn, and work back across. The colorwork is a bit fiddly, too. Do not work too tightly. Be sure to carry the strand of the unworked color loosely and to bring it forward with the working strand when slipping the unworked stitches. Working too tightly will cause the fabric to draw in and pucker. Each row of the chart is worked twice, once for each side of the doubleknit fabric. Rows13-92 (K 1, sl1p wyif) across, following chart A for colorwork: attach R to begin colorwork midway along row 21, cut R after finishing charted colorwork midway along row 84. (Rows correspond to rows 13 - 92 of Chart A.) Cut W, attach R. Rows 93 - 94 (K 1, sl1p wyif) across. Ssk, (ssp 3 times), (ssk 3 times, ssp 3 times) 3 times, ssk. (23 sts) 'he center of the scarf is now worked back and forth in the traditional manne K 1, p 3, (k 3, p 3) 3 times, k 1.

Center of scarf:

Continue to repeat row 96 until the center section of scarf is about 34" (or desired) length. It doesn't matter which side you start the next section on because the entire scarf is perfectly reversible. Continue with pattern row 97 (an arbitrary designation). Row 97 Kfb, pfb 3 times, (kfb 3 times, pfb 3 times) 3 times, kfb. (46 sts) Cut R) attach w. The next section is worked using the doubleknitting technique and Chart B.

Rows 98 -177

(K 1, sl1p wyif) across following chart B for colorwork: attach R to begin colorwork midway along row 106, cut R after finishing charted colorwork midway along row 169. (Rows correspond to rows 98 - 177 of Chart B. Note that this time the even numbered rows start on the right of the chart and odd numbered rows start on the left of the chart. Remember, you must work across an even numbered row, turn work and continue across the next odd numbered row to get one row of fabric in this doubleknit section.) Cut W, attach R. Rows 178 - 179 (K 1, sl1p wyif) across. The end of the scarf is worked back and forth in the traditional manner without slipping any stitches. Row180 Ssk, (ssp 3 times), (ssk 3 times, ssp 3 times) 3 times, ssk. (23 sts) Rows 181 - 191 K 1, p 3, (k 3, p 3) 3 times, k 1. BO Bind off in established stitch pattern. k you to Karen Zander and Cindy Harrison for test knitting these instructiol