Sunset Sand Dune Socks
S= 60, 64 (7.5 in or 8 in ish. This accommodates a larger foot, 8.5 and 9 inches circumference) Actual gauge is around 8.33 sts/in and 13 rows/in using a US1 (2.25 mm) needle. It's handspun so it's kind of a guesstimate since my yarn isn't super consistent... Stitches Used. LLI and RLl : Left lifted increase and right lifted increase (my preferred increase method) k2tog, ssk, yo Cast on 12 sts (both sizes)-- 6 on each needle if using magic loop with a judy's magic cast on. If working in dpns, cast on with your preferred method for toe-up. I would suggest a provisional cast-on method.
Toe
a note on sizing: once the toe cap fits across your first 4 toes, and can stretch to cover the pinky toe, this is the correct size. If it fits comfortably over all 5 toes without stretching, your sock will be very much too big. Rnd 1: K2, LL1, knit to 2 stitches before last stitch on needle , RL1, k2, (place marker here if desired & slip on subsequent rounds) k2, LL1, knit to 2 stitches before the end of the rnd, RL1, k2. 4 sts increased. Rnd 2: Knit. Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until you have 60 (64) sts on the needles (if magic loop, there will be 30 (32) stitches on each needle) Begin knitting the chart (at the of the pattern- choose the one for your stitch count), only across instep stitches and not sole stitches. Begin shaping gusset when sock is 32 rows shorter than total length or about 2.667 inches shorter than total sock length (if 12 rows/in, otherwise, calculate using your row gauge) Gusset instructions: row 1: (K as established in chart across instep), heel needle: k2, LL1, knit to 2 stitches before last stitch on needle, RLl, K2 Row 2: (K as established for instep), heel needle: K all Repeat these two rows until you have the required amount of stitches on the heel needle after a row 2. This will be 18 stitches increased for a total of 48 (50) stitches on the heel needle. Heel turn (14 rows) round 1: work across 2/3s of heel needle stitches: until 15 (16) sts remain unworked heel needle (work across 33 (34) heel sts), m1L, turn row 2: sl1, p 18, m1P, turn row 3: sl1, K17, m1L, turn row 4: sl1, k16, m1l, turn [] row 14: sl1, p6, m1p, turn. set up for heel flap sl1, K17 (18), ssk, turn The heel flap will actually be worked across 30 stitches. For the 60-sts sock, all stitches from the gusset/heel turn increases will be reduced away. Switch colors here if working contrast heel (or from outside of ball to maintain gradient in Sock) WS: Sl1, p28, p2tog, turn RS: \*sl1, k1 \* for 28 sts, sl1, ssk, turn epeat until 1 (2) st left on right needle after RS row. (20, 18 rows required) Proceed working in the round. (if knitting 2-at-a-time, you will proceed to knitting the next heel before closing the gap on the current sock heel). In the next round, work instep needle in pattern as established and on the heel needle, close the last gap using k2tog and K the rest of the stitches. You will have 0 (2) stitches that were not worked with the heel flap for a total of 30 (32) stitches on the heel needle and 60 (64) stitches overall. Continue working in the round with charted pattern (work the charted pattern across all the stitches now) as established for approximately 5 inches. From here, either start the cuff or proceed with the leg instructions below (if you would like to maximize your yarn usage for taller socks). Cuff (if not using leg increases): Change to one needle smaller (in my case, 2.00 mm needle). 60 (64) stitches. Cuff for 2 inches (26 rows in gauge)-- \*K2P2\* repeat around. Bind off- using elastic method in pattern. Block socks according to yarn's requirements.
Leg:
Once vou get bevond 5 or 6 inches past the top of the heel flap you may wa increases to accommodate the calf as the sock arows taller This denends on the lea. imcleases to accommouate the caf as the sock gro First increase is centered yo on back of leg, will increase 25 stitches on the back of the leg over 26 rows. My sock is about 9.5 inches tall, measured from the top of the heel flap, unstretched. On my leg, it's a total of 9.5 inches tall from floor to top of cuff. Back needle only row 1: k15 (16),pm, yo, pm, k15 (16) (unless it is a pattern row, then center yo between pattern repeats) row 2: K all (in pattern as established) row 3: K15 (as established in pattern row), sm, LL1, k to next marker, RL1, k15 (as est in pattern row) Repeat rows 2 and 3 for the required number of increases (26 rows total). 85 (89) stitches total. On the next round, decrease the center back stitch for a total of 84 (88) stitches.
Cuff
Change to one needle smaller ( 84, [88] stitches). Cuff for 2 inches (26 rows in gauge)-- \*K2P2\* repeat around. → If desired, add knit-in-elastic, or weave in elastic with darning needle after the cuff is knit. Bind off -- using elastic method in pattern. Block socks according to yarn's requirements.
Hope you enjoy this pattern! It's untested but do feel free to message me on ravelry if you have questions or comments! Trish Halliburton, ravelry user flannelcat,
