RossPoldarkBlanket
This blanket has been inspired by the character Ross Poldark, from BBC's Poldark (2015). I used Ross's colour palette and incorporated various themes including crossroads and breaking barriers into each square. Please feel free to sell blankets you make from this pattern, but make sure I am credited as the pattern creator. Please do not sell this pattern, or try to claim this pattern as your own.
Materials
I used Stylecraft Special DK, in the following colours: storm blue, copper, white, silver, black, denim, dark brown, grey, mocha, and cream. I used approximately 134g of storm blue, 88g of copper, 96g of white, 89g of silver, 66g of black, 123g of denim, 110g of dark brown, 91g of grey, 245g of mocha, and 76g of cream. Stylecraft Special DK comes in 100g balls. Your usage may be more or less depending on your gauge. Hook: 4.5mm. Gauge is not essential for this project. As a guide, the big central square turned out roughly 16 inches for me, worked in DK with a 4.5mm hook. The smallest squares were 4 inches, the medium squares 8 inches. If your central square is smaller, your blanket will be correspondingly smaller. If your square is bigger, your blanket will be bigger. Use what feels comfortable to you with the yarn you choose. I tend to have a tight gauge; use your own judgement as to whether you want to go up or down a hook size, or even two! You will also need a tapestry needle for sewing in ends, and you may find stitch markers helpful. If you don't have stitch markers, short lengths of a contrasting colour yarn work just as well. Note: I don't feel the need to block squares when using acrylic yarn - because, short of “killing' the fibres with steam, blocking doesn't do much! I do, however, wash the blanket when it's done, and tumble dry on low. I find this is a good blocking technique for this particular yarn. It softens the stitches and makes everything relax into shape.
Stitches used
This pattern uses US terminology, and assumes you are familiar with a range of basic and some more intermediate stitches. There are a lot of very good tutorials available online for all of these stitches. Anything that is slightly out of the ordinary will be explained in the pattern, with pictures where necessary. The stitches and abbreviations used are as follows: sl st = slip stitch ch = chain sc = single crochet hdc = half-double crochet dc = double crochet tc = treble crochet bphdc = back post half-double crochet bpdc = back post double crochet fpdc = front post double crochet fptc = front post treble crochet fpdc2tog = work front post double crochet decrease across two stitches fptc2tog = work front post treble crochet decrease across two stitches Note: Post stitches are worked around the post of a stitch, rather than through the top of the stitch. Unless otherwise instructed, always assume that you skip over the top of a stitch that has been worked as a front post stitch. V stitch = (dc, ch1, dc) in same stitch Shell stitch = (dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc) in same stitch. Standing stitches: standing sc, standing hdc, standing dc. These are a great way to begin a round without joining new yarn with a slip stitch and chains. It makes the first stitch look like all the others, and you can easily make an ‘invisible' join at the end, and so avoid having to slip stitch to join the last stitch to the first stitch in a round. There are a number of excellent tutorials online on how to do these stitches. If you're not happy using standing stitches, just join new yarn in the normal way with a slip stitch and then ch1 for sc, ch2 for hdc, or ch3 for dc, and then at the end of the round join with a sl st to the ‘top’ ch of the beginning chain. Invisible join: There are a number of good tutorials online, and this can be done with either a chained beginning stitch or a standing stitch. This is optional. If you prefer to join the last stitch to the first stitch with a slip stitch, feel free to do that. I will generally say ^do an invisible join', but if I specifically say to join with a sl st, then please do that. Magic circle: again, there are lots of tutorials out there. This is a good way of starting a square because it can be drawn tight, and doesn't leave a hole in the middle the way a chain loop does. Foundation double crochet: I love foundation crochet. It eliminates the need for a chained beginning, and has much more stretch than a chain, so is more forgiving. There are some excellent tutorials online. If you're struggling with foundation double crochet, you can work a chain of the correct length and then dc into each stitch as your ‘row one'. The numbers in brackets at the end of each round's instructions are the numbers of stitches that should be inthat round. Note: when breaking off yarn, remember to leave a nice long tail to make it easier to sew it in securely at the end.
Ross Poldark Blanket
Central square
1) With storm blue, in a magic circle ch3 (counts as one dc), then 11dc. Join with invisible join to beginning ch3. Break off yarn. Pull the beginning yarn end tight to close the circle. (12 dc) 2)With white, begin with standing dc in any stitch. \*(fpdc, ch2, fpdc) around next stitch, then dc in next two stitches\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final dc. Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (8 fpdc, 8 dc, 4 ch2. 24 stitches in total)
3) With mocha, begin with standing dc in any ch2 space. (dc, ch2, 2dc) in same space. \*fpdc around fpdc from round two, then 2dc in each of the next two stitches. fpdc around fpdc from round two, then (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (2dc, ch2, 2dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (32 dc, 8 fpdc, 4 ch2. 48 stitches in total)
This is what your square should look like. 4) With denim, begin with standing dc in any fifth stitch before ch2 corner. Dc in next three stitches. \*fptc around the second fpdc from round three, skip dc, then 3sc in ch2 space. Fptc around the first fpdc from round three, and skip next dc. Dc in next four stitches, ch1, then dc in next four stitches\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final four dc. Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (32 dc, 12 sc, 8 fptc, 4 ch1. 56 stitches in total)
5) With silver, begin with standing dc in any ch1 space. (ch2, dc) in same space. \*Skip next stitch, then dc in next four stitches. Skip next stitch, then (dc, ch2, dc) in next stitch. Skip next stitch, dc in next four stitches, skip next stitch, then (dc, ch2, dc) in ch1 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* thre times, omitting final (dc, ch2, dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (48 dc, 8 ch2. 64 stitches in total) 6)With copper, begin with standing sc in any ch2. (ch2, sc) in same space. \*sc in next six stitches, then (sc, ch2, sc) in ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* seven times, omitting final (sc, ch2, sc). Join with invisible join to beginning sc. Break off yarn. (64 sc, 8 ch2. 80 stitches in total) 7）With cream, begin with standing dc in second ch2 space after round six join. 2dc in same space. \*Skip next stitch, then dc in next six stitches. Skip next stitch, then fptc around the second dc of (dc, ch2, dc) from round five. Sc in ch2 space, then fptc around the first dc of (dc, ch2, dc) from round five. Skip next two stitches, then dc in next six stitches. 3dc in ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final 3dc. Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (60 dc, 8 fptc, 4 sc. 72 stitches intotal)
Make sure you begin in the right ch2 space. 8)With storm blue, begin with standing dc in any sc. (dc, ch2, 2dc) in same stitch. \*Skip next stitch, then dc in next seven stitches. Fpdc around next dc, ch2, and fpdc around the same dc. Skip next stitch, then dc in next seven stitches. In next sc (2dc, ch2, 2dc)\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (2dc, ch2, 2dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (72 dc, 8 fpdc, 8 ch2. 96 stitches in total)
9)With black, begin with standing dc in ch2 space of any (2dc, ch2, 2dc). (dc, ch2, 2dc) in same space. \*Skip next stitch, then dc in next three stitches. Hdc in next three stitches, then sc in next three stitches. 3sc in ch2 space, and skip next stitch. Sc in next three stitches, hdc in next three stitches, and dc in next three stitches. In ch2 space (2dc, ch2, 2dc)\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (2dc, ch2, 2dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (40 dc, 24 hdc, 36 sc, 4 ch2. 108 stitchesintotal)
10) With grey, begin with standing dc in any second dc before ch2 space. \*ch4, and dc into third dc after ch2 space (skipping over dc, ch2 space, and next two dc). Dc in next four stitches, then hdc in next two stitches, and sc in next two stitches. Fpdc around fpdc from round eight, skip next stitch, sc in next stitch. Fpdc around fpdc from round eight, skip next two stitches. Then sc in next two stitches, hdc in next two stitches, and dc in next five stitches\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final dc. Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (40 dc, 16 hdc, 20 sc, 8 fpdc, 4 ch4. 100 stitchesintotal)
11) With mocha, begin with standing dc in any ch4 corner space. (3dc, ch2, 4dc) in same space. \*Dc in next three stitches, hdc in next three stitches, then sc in next nine stitches. Hdc in next three stitches, dc in next three stitches, then in ch4 space (4dc, ch2, 4dc)\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (4dc, ch2, 4dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (40 dc, 24 hdc, 36 sc, 4 ch2. 108 stitchesintotal)
12) With copper, begin with standing sc in any fifth dc before ch2 corner space. \*tc in ch2 space from round nine, skip next stitch. Sc in next stitch, then tc in the same ch2 space from round nine, skip next stitch, and sc in next stitch. In corner ch2 from round 11, (sc, ch2, sc). Sc in next stitch, tc in ch2 space from round nine, skip next stitch. Sc in next stitch, tc in ch2 space from round nine, skip next stitch. Sc in next 21 stitches\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final sc. Join with invisible join to beginning sc. Break off yarn. (104 sc, 12 tc, 4 ch2. 124 stitches in total)
Make sure you begin in the right stitch. 13) With white, begin with standing dc in any ch2 corner space. (dc, ch2, 2dc) in same space. \*Skip next stitch, then dc in next stitch. Fpdc around tc, dc in next two stitches, then fpdc around tc. Skip next stitch, then hdc in next eight stitches. Fptc around fpdc from round 10, skip next stitch, and hdc in next three stitches. Fptc around fpdc from round 10, skip next stitch, then hdc in next seven stitches. Fpdc around tc, dc in next two stitches, fpdc around tc, and skip next stitch. Dc in next stitch, then in corner ch2 space (2dc, ch2, 2dc)\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (2dc, ch2, 2dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (40 dc, 72 hdc, 8 fptc, 4 ch2. 144 stitches in total)
14) With denim, begin with standing dc in any ch2 corner space. (dc, ch2, 2dc) in same space. \*Dc in next three stitches, then fptc around the second fpdc from round 13. Skip next stitch, hdc in next two stitches, then fptc around the first fpdc from round 13. Skip next two stitches, then dc in next eight stitches. Skip next stitch, work a V stitch in next stitch, and skip next stitch. Dc in next eight stitches, then fptc around the second fpdc from round 13. Skip next stitch, hdc in next two stitches, then fptc around the first fpdc from round 13. Skip next stitch, then dc in next three stitches. In corner ch2 space, (2dc, ch2, 2dc)\*\*,
Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (2dc, ch2, 2dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (112 dc, 16 fptc, 16 hdc, 4 ch1, 4 ch2. 156 stitches in total) 15) With dark brown, begin with standing dc in any ch2 corner space. (dc, ch2, 2dc in same space. \*dc in next 11 stitches. Skip next stitch, then work a V stitch in next stitch. (Skip next two stitches, then work a V stitch in next stitch) four times, then skip next stitch. Dc in next 11 stitches, then (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (2dc, ch2, 2dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (144 dc, 20 ch1, 4 ch2. 172 stitches in total)
16) With cream, begin with standing hdc in any ch2 corner space. (ch2, hdc) in same space. \*fpdc around next three stitches. Hdc in next 10 stitches, then fpdc around next dc. (2hdc in ch1 space, fpdc2tog around next two dc) four times, then 2hdc in ch1 space and fpdc around next dc. Note: you do not work into the top of any of the dc stitches of the round 15 V stitches. Hdc in next 10 stitches, then fpdc around next three stitches. In corner ch2 space (hdc, ch2, hdc)\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (hdc, ch2, hdc). Join with invisible join to beginning hdc. Break off yarn. (128 hdc, 32 fpdc, 16 fpdc2tog, 4 ch2. 184 stitchesintotal)
This is what your corner should look like.
This is what the fpdc2tog should look like. 17) With grey, begin with standing dc in any ch2 corner space. (2dc, ch2, 3dc) in same space. \*Skip next stitch, hdc in next three fpdc, and dc in next three stitches. Skip next stitch, then work a V stitch in next stitch. (Skip next two stitches, then work a V stitch in next stitch) nine times, then skip next stitch. Dc in next three stitches, then hdc in next three fpdc. Skip next stitch, then (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in corner ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (3dc, ch2, 3dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (128 dc, 24 hdc, 40 ch1, 4 ch2. 200 stitches intotal)
18) With mocha, begin with standing hdc in any ch2 corner space. (ch2, hdc) in same space. \*hdc in next three stitches, then fptc around the third fpdc from round 16. Skip next stitch, hdc in next stitch, then fptc around the first fpdc from round 16. Skip next stitch, hdc in next three stitches, then fpdc around next dc. (2hdc in ch1 space, fpdc2tog around next two dc) nine times, then 2hdc in ch1 space and fpdc around next dc. Hdc in next three stitches, then fptc around the third fpdc from round 16. Skip next stitch, hdc in next stitch, then fptc around the first fpdc from round 16. Skip next stitch, hdc in next three stitches, then in corner ch2 space (hdc, ch2, hdc)\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (hdc, ch2, hdc). Join with invisible join to beginning hdc. Break off yarn. (144 hdc, 16 fptc, 8 fpdc, 26 fpdc2tog, 4 ch2. 212stitches intotal)
19) With black, begin with standing sc in any ch2 corner space. (ch2, sc) in same space. \*Skip first stitch, then sc in next 50 stitches. In corner ch2 space (sc, ch2, sc)\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (sc, ch2, sc). Join with invisible join to beginning sc. Break off yarn. (208 sc, 4 ch2. 216 stitches in total) 20) With storm blue, begin with standing hdc in any ch2 corner space. (ch3, hdc) in same space. \*Skip first stitch, then hdc in next four stitches. Fpdc around fptc from round 18, skip next stitch, then hdc in next stitch. Fpdc around fptc from round 18, skip next stitch, then hdc in next six stitches. (fpdc around fptc2tog, skip next stitch, then hdc in next two stitches) eight times, then fpdc around fpdc2tog and skip next stitch. Hdc in next six stitches, then fpdc around fptc from round 18. Skip next stitch, hdc in next stitch, then fpdc around fptc from round 18. Skip next stitch, and hdc in next four stitches. In corner ch2 space (hdc, ch3, hdc)\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (hdc, ch3, hdc). Join with invisible join to beginning hdc. Break off yarn. (160 hdc, 52 fpdc, 4 ch3. 224 stitches in total)
This is what your fpdc stitches should look like. 21) With silver, begin with standing dc in any ch3 corner space. (dc, ch2, 2dc) in same space. \*Skip next stitch, then dc in next 52 stitches. In corner ch3 space (2dc, ch2, 2dc)\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (2dc, ch2, 2dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (224 dc, 4 ch2. 232 stitches in total) 22) With copper, begin with standing dc in any ch2 corner space. (dc, ch2, 2dc) in same space. \*bpdc in next 16 stitches. (fptc around fpdc from round 20, skip next stitch, then bpdc in next two stitches) eight times, then fptc around fpdc from round 20 and skip next stitch. Bpdc in next 15 stitches, then in corner ch2 space (2dc, ch2, 2dc). Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (2dc, ch2, 2dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (188 bpdc, 36 fptc, 16 dc, 4 ch2. 248 stitches intotal)
This is what your fptc should look like. 23) With dark brown, begin with standing sc in any ch2 corner space. (ch2, 2sc) in same space. \*sc in next 60 stitches, then (sc, ch2, 2sc) in corner ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (sc, ch2, 2sc). Note: make sure you don't sc too tightly in this round and the next, otherwise your final rounds will be too tight and the square won't sit flat. Join with sl st to beginning sc. (252 sc, 4 ch2. 260 stitches in total) 24) S1 st into corner ch2 space. Ch1, then 3sc in same space. \*sc in next 63 stitches, then 3sc in corner ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final 3sc. Join with invisible join to first sc. Break off yarn. (264 sc. 65 stitches each side, plus ‘corner′ stitch) Sew in all ends.
Rectangle section
Notes: This is worked up with alternating ^odd’ rows of double or single crochet + post stitches, and ‘even’ rows of single crochet. You turn the piece at the end of each row. The single crochet ‘even’ rows are worked with the back side of the piece facing, the double or single crochet + post ‘odd’ rows are worked with the front side facing. You will find it helpful to use stitch markers or lengths of contrasting yarn to mark where you put the post stitches. You need to make four of these rectangles. 1)With mocha, work 65 foundation double crochet. 2) Turn, ch1. Sc in same stitch, then sc in next 64 stitches. Break off yarn. Turn. 3)With grey, begin with standing dc in first sc of row. Dc in next 10 stitches, then skip next stitch and work a V stitch in next stitch. (Skip next two stitches, then work a V stitch in next) five times, then skip next stitch. Dc in next seven stitches, then skip next stitch and work a V stitch in next stitch. (Skip next two stitches, then work a V stitch in next) five times, then skip next stitch and dc in next 11 stitches. (53 dc, 12 ch1) 4) Turn, ch1. Sc in same stitch, then sc in next 64 stitches. Break off yarn. Turn. 5)With cream, begin with standing sc in first sc of row. Sc in next three stitches, then fptc around the seventh dc of row three. Skip next stitch, sc in next, then fptc around the fifth dc of row three. Skip next stitch, sc in next four stitches, then fpdc around the first dc of the first V stitch of row three. Skip next stitch, sc in next stitch, then (fpdc2tog across next two dc from row three, skip stitch, and sc in next two stitches) five times. Fpdc around the next dc of row three (the last dc of the sixth V stitch), skip next stitch, then sc in next seven stitches. Note: put a stitch marker or piece of contrasting yarn at the midpoint of the row, the 4th sc of these seven. You will need it later! Fpdc around the first dc of the seventh V stitch of row three, and skip next stitch. (Sc in next two stitches, fpdc2tog across next two dc from row three, and skip next stitch) five times, then sc in next stitch, and fpdc around next dc from row three (the last dc of the 12th V stitch of row three). Skip next stitch, then sc in next four stitches. Fptc around the 49rh dc of row three, skip next stitch, sc in next stitch, then fptc around the 47th dc of row three. Skip next stitch, then sc in next four stitches. (47 sc, 4 fptc, 4 fpdc, 10 fpdc2tog) Turn, ch1. Sc in same stitch, then sc in next 64 stitches. Break off yarn. Turn.
7）With storm blue, begin with standing dc in first sc of row, then dc in next 12 stitches. (fptc around fpdc2tog from row five, skip next stitch, then dc in next two stitches) four times, then fptc around fpdc2tog and skip next stitch. Dc in next five stitches, then fptc around the 33rd sc of row five (as marked earlier). Skip next stitch, dc in next stitch, then fptc around the same 33rd sc of row five. Skip next stitch, then dc in next five stitches. (fptc around fpdc2tog from row five, skip next stitch, then dc in next two stitches) four times, then fptc around fpdc2tog and skip next stitch. Dc in next 13 stitches. (53 dc, 12 fptc)
This is what your two fptc around the 33rd stitch of row five should look like. 8) Turn, ch1. Sc in same stitch, then sc in next 64 stitches. Break off yarn. Turn. 9 With copper, begin with standing dc in first sc of row. Dc in next 30 stitches. Then fptc around the second fptc from row seven, skip next stitch, hdc in next stitch, and fptc around the first fptc from row seven. Skip next stitch, then dc in next 31 stitches. 10) Turn, ch1. Sc in same stitch, then sc in next 64 stitches. Break off yarn. Turn.
11) Note: This round looks terribly complicated, but the hardest part is counting dc stitches from row nine. If you're struggling, remember that there should be four dc stitches between each set of fptc crossed stitches, except in the middle of the row, where there will be nine stitches between sets of fptc crossed stitches. I strongly advise you mark the relevant stitches before you begin the row, either with stitch markers or with lengths of contrasting coloured yarn. With silver, begin with standing dc in first sc of row. Dc in next three stitches. Then fptc around the seventh dc of row nine, skip next stitch, dc in next stitch, then fptc around the fifth dc of row nine. Skip next stitch, then dc in next four stitches. Fptc around 14th dc of row nine, skip next stitch, dc in next stitch, then fptc around 12th dc of row nine. Skip next stitch, then dc in next four stitches. Fptc around 21s dc of row nine, skip next stitch, dc in next stitch, then fptc around 19th dc of row nine. Skip next stitch, then dc in next four stitches. Fptc around 18th dc of row nine, skip next stitch, dc in next stitch, then fptc around 26th dc of row nine. Skip next stitch, and dc in next nine stitches. Fptc around 37th dc of row nine, skip next stitch, dc in next stitch, then fptc around 35th dc of row nine. Skip next stitch, then dc in next four stitches. Fptc around 44th dc of row nine, skip next stitch, dc in next stitch, then fptc around 42nd dc of row nine. Skip next stitch, then dc in next four stitches. Fptc around 51st dc of row nine, skip next stitch, dc in next stitch, then fptc around 49th dc of row nine. Skip next stitch, then dc in next four stitches. Fptc around 58ih dc of row nine, skip next stitch, dc in next stitch, then fptc around 56th dc of row nine. Skip next stitch, then dc in next four stitches. (49 dc, 16 fptc)
12) Turn, ch1. Sc in same stitch, then sc in next 64 stitches. Break off yarn. Turn. 13) With black, begin with standing sc in first sc of row. (sc in next two stitches, then fpdc around fptc from row 11. Skip next stitch, sc in next three stitches, then fpdc around fptc from row 11 and skip next stitch) four times. Sc in next seven stitches, then (fpdc around fptc, skip next stitch, then sc in next three stitches. fpdc around fpdc, skip next stitch, then sc in next two stitches) four times. Sc in next stitch. (49 sc, 16 fpdc) 14) Turn, ch1. Sc in same stitch, then sc in next 64 stitches. Break off yarn. Turn. 15) With mocha, begin with standing dc in first sc of row. Dc in next stitch, then fptc around fpdc from row 13 and skip next stitch. (dc in next six stitches, fptc2tog across next two fpdc from row 13, then skip next stitch) three times. Dc in next six stitches, then fptc around fpdc from row 13 and skip next stitch. Dc in next three stitches, then fptc around fpdc from row 13 and skip next stitch. (dc in next six stitches, fptc2tog across next two fpdc from row 13, and skip next stitch) three times. Dc in next six stitches, fptc around fpdc from row 13, skip next stitch and dc in next two stitches. (55 dc, 4 fptc, 6 fptc2tog)
This is what your fptc2tog stitches should look like. 17) With denim, begin with standing sc in first sc of row. Sc in next seven stitches. (fpdc around fptc2tog from row 15, skip next stitch, then sc in next stitch. Fpdc around the same fptc2tog from row 15, skip next stitch, then sc in next four stitches) three times. Sc in next two stitches, fpdc around fptc from row 15, and skip next stitch. Sc in next stitch, then fpdc around the next fptc from row 15. Skip next stitch, then sc in next six stitches. (fpdc around fptc2tog from row 15, skip next stitch, then sc in next stitch. Fpdc around the same fptc2tog from row 15, skip next stitch, then sc in next four stitches) three times. Sc in next four stitches. (51 sc, 14 fpdc)
Page 14 of 34 18) Turn, ch1. Sc in same stitch, then sc in next 64 stitches. Break off yarn. Turn. 19) With white, begin with standing dc in first sc of row. Dc in next six stitches. (Fptc around fpdc from row 17, skip next stitch, then dc in next four stitches. Fptc around next fpdc from row 17, skip next stitch, and dc in next stitch) three times. Dc in next three stitches, then fptc around the second fpdc from row 17. Skip next stitch, dc in next, then fptc around the first fpdc from row 17. Skip next stitch, then dc in next four stitches. (Fptc around fpdc from row 17, skip next stitch, then dc in next four stitches. Fptc around fpdc from row 17, skip next stitch, then dc in next stitch) three times. Dc in next six stitches. (51 dc, 14 fptc)
20) Turn, ch1. Sc in same stitch, then sc in next 64 stitches. Break off yarn. Turn. 21) With dark brown, begin with standing dc in first sc of row. Dc in next 11 stitches. (Fptc around second fptc from row 19, skip next stitch, then dc in next stitch. Fptc around the first fptc from row 19, skip next stitch, then dc in next four stitches) twice. Dc in next 17 stitches. (Fptc around the second fptc from row 19, skip next stitch, then dc in next stitch. Fptc around the first fptc from row 19, skip next stitch, then dc in next four stitches) twice. Dc in next eight stitches. (57 dc, 8 fptc)
This is what your crossed stitches should look like. 22) Turn, ch1. Sc in same stitch, then sc in next 64 stitches. Break off yarn. Turn. 23) With silver, begin with standing dc in first sc of row. Dc in next 10 stitches. Skip next stitch, then work a V stitch in next stitch. (Skip next two stitches, then work a V stitch in next stitch) five times. Skip next stitch, then dc in next seven stitches. Skip next stitch, then work a V stitch in next stitch. (Skip next two stitches, then work a V stitch in next stitch) five times. Skip next stitch, then dc in next 11 stitches. (53 dc, 12 ch1)
24) Turn, ch1. Sc in same stitch, then sc in next 64 stitches. Break off yarn. Turn. 25) With storm blue, begin with standing sc in first sc of row. Sc in next three stitches, then fptc around the seventh dc of row 13. Skip next stitch, sc in next stitch, then fptc around the fifth dc of row 23. Skip next stitch, and sc in next four stitches. Fpdc around the first dc of the first V stitch of row 23. Skip next stitch, sc in next stitch, then (fpdc2tog across next two dc from row 23, skip next stitch, and sc in next two stitches) five times. Fpdc in next dc of row 23 (the last dc of the sixth V stitch of row 23), and skip next stitch. Sc in next seven stitches. Note: put a stitch marker or piece of contrasting yarn at the midpoint of the row, the 4th sc of these seven. You will need it later! Then fpdc around the first dc of the seventh V stitch of row 23, and skip next stitch. (sc in next two stitches, fpdc2tog across next two dc from row 23, and skip next stitch) five times. Then sc in next stitch, fpdc around next dc of row 23 (the last dc of the 12th V stitch of row 23), and skip next stitch. Sc in next four stitches, then fptc around 49th dc of row 23. Skip next stitch, dc in next stitch, and fptc around 47th dc of row 23. Skip next stitch, then sc in next four stitches. (47 sc, 4 fptc, 10 fpdc2tog)
26) Turn, ch1. Sc in same stitch and next 64 stitches. Break off yarn. Turn. 27) With grey, begin with standing dc in first sc of row. Dc in next 12 stitches. (fptc around fpdc2tog from row 25, skip next stitch, and dc in next two stitches) four times, then fptc around fpdc2tog and skip next stitch. Dc in next six stitches, then fptc2tog across the 32nd and 34rh stitches of row 25 (the stitches either side of the marked stitch). Skip next stitch, and dc in next six stitches. (fptc around fpdc2tog from row 25, skip next stitch, then dc in next two stitches) four times, then fptc around fpdc2tog and skip next stitch. Dc in next 13 stitches. (54 dc, 10 fptc, 1 fptc2tog)
28) Turn, ch1. Sc in same stitch and next 64 stitches. Break off yarn. Sew in all ends.
Small corner square
You'll be making 16 of these, 8 in colour combination A and 8 in colour combination B. The first colour combination, A, is italicised, and the second, B, is in (bolded brackets) Combination A: dark brown, cream, storm blue, grey. Combination B: copper, white, denim, silver. 1) With dark brown (copper), in a magic circle ch1 and 4sc. Join with sl st to beginning sc. Pull the beginning yarn end tight to close the circle. (4sc) 2) Ch3, then dc in same stitch. Ch4, then (2dc in next stitch, ch4) three times. Join with invisible join to 3rd ch of beginning ch3. Break off yarn. (8dc, 4 ch4. 24 stitches in total) 3) With cream (white), begin with standing dc in any ch4 space. (dc, ch2, 2dc) in same space. \*fpdc around next two dc, then (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in ch4 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (2dc, ch2, 2dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (16 dc, 16 fpdc, 4 ch2. 40 stitches in total)
4) With storm blue (denim), begin with standing dc in any ch2 corner space. (dc, ch2, 2dc) in same space. \*fpdc around next two stitches, dc in next two stitches, fpdc around next two stitches, and then (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (2dc, ch2, 2dc). Join with sl st to beginning dc. (24 dc, 16 fpdc, 4 ch2. 48 stitches in total)
5) Ch1, sc in same stitch and in next stitch. \*in ch2 corner space, (sc, ch2, sc), then sc in next 10 stitches\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final two sc. Join with invisible join to beginning sc. Break off yarn. (48 sc, 4 ch2. 56 stitches in total) 6)With grey (silver), begin with standing hdc in any ch2 corner space. 2hdc in same space. \*bphdc in next three stitches. fptc around the next two fpdc from round four, and skip next two stitches. bphdc in next two stitches, then fptc around the next two fpdc from round four, and skip next two stitches. Bphdc in next three stitches, then 3hdc in corner ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final 3hdc. Join with sl st. (12 hdc, 32 bphdc, 16 fptc. 60 stitches in total)
7) Ch1, sc in same space. \*3sc in next stitch, then sc in next 14 stitches\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final sc. Join with invisible join to beginning sc. Break off yarn. (68 sc. 16 stitches per side plus ‘corner' stitch) Sew in all ends.
Outer square no. 1
You need to make eight of these. 1) With denim, in a magic circle ch3 (counts as one dc), dc, then (ch3, 2dc) three times. Ch3, and join with invisible join to beginning ch3. Pull the beginning yarn end tight to close the circle. Break off yarn. (8 dc, 4 ch3. 20 stitches in total) 2)With cream, begin with standing dc in any ch3 space. (dc, ch2, 2dc) in same space. \*fpdc around next two dc, then (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in ch3 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (2dc, ch2, 2dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (16 dc, 8 fpdc, 4 ch2. 32 stitches in total) 3)With dark brown, begin with standing dc in any ch2 corner space. (dc, ch2, 2dc) in same space. \*fpdc around next two stitches, dc in next two stitches, then fpdc around next two stitches. (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (2dc, ch2, 2dc). Join with sl st to beginning dc. (24 dc, 16 fpdc, 4 ch2. 48 stitches in total) 4) Ch1, sc in the same stitch and next stitch. \*(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2 space, then sc in next 10 stitches\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final two sc. Join with invisible join to beginning sc. Break off yarn. (48 sc, 4 ch2. 56 stitches in total)
5)With silver, begin with standing dc in any ch2 corner space. (ch2, dc) in same space. \*bpdc in next three stitches. fptc around the next two fpdc from round three, and skip next two stitches. bpdc in next two stitches, then fptc around the next two fpdc from round three. Skip next two stitches, then bpdc in next three stitches. (dc, ch2, dc) in corner ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (dc, ch2, dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (32 bpdc, 16 fptc, 8 dc, 4 ch2. 64 stitchesintotal)
Page 20 of 34 6)With storm blue, begin with standing dc in any ch2 corner space. (dc, ch2, 2dc) in same space. \*fpdc around next stitch, then dc in next 12 stitches. fpdc around next stitch, then (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (2dc, ch2, 2dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (64 dc, 8 fpdc, 4 ch2. 80 stitches in total) 7） With copper, begin with standing sc in any fpdc before ch2 corner space. Sc in next stitch. \*fptc around fpdc after ch2 corner of round six. Skip next stitch, then (sc, ch2, sc) in ch2 corner space. Fptc around fpdc before ch2 corner of round six, and skip next stitch. Sc in next three stitches, fpdc around next two stitches, then sc in next six stitches. Fpdc around next two stitches, then sc in next three stitches\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final two sc. Join with sl st to beginning sc. (56 sc, 8 fptc, 16 fpdc, 4 ch2. 88 stitches in total)
8) Ch1, sc in same stitch and next three stitches. \*in ch2 corner space (sc, ch2, sc), then sc in next 20 stitches\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final four sc. Join with invisible join to beginning sc. Break off yarn. (88 sc, 4 ch2. 96 stitches in total) 9) With white, begin with standing dc in any ch2 corner space. (ch2, dc) in same space. \*bpdc in next two stitches, then fptc around fptc from round seven, and skip next stitch. Bpdc in next three stitches, then fptc around the next two fpdc from round seven, and skip next two stitches. Bpdc in next six stitches, then fptc around the next two fpdc from round seven, and skip next two stitches. Bpdc in next three stitches, then fptc around fptc from round seven, and skip next stitch. Bpdc in next two stitches, then (dc, ch2, dc) in corner ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (dc, ch2, dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (64 bpdc, 24 fptc, 8 dc, 4 ch2. 104 stitchesintotal)
10) With mocha, begin with standing dc in any ch2 corner space. (dc, ch2, 2dc) in same space. \*dc in next two stitches, then fptc around fptc from round nine. Skip next stitch, dc in next stitch, then fptc around the same fptc from round nine. Skip next stitch, then dc in next six stitches. Fpdc around next two stitches, then dc in next six stitches. Fptc around fptc from round nine. Skip next stitch, dc in next stitch, then fptc around the same fptc from round nine. Skip next stitch, then dc in next two. Then (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (2dc, ch2, 2dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (88 dc, 16 fptc, 8 fpdc, 4 ch2. 120 stitchesintotal)
11) With black, begin with standing sc in any ch2 corner space. (ch2, sc) in same space. \*sc in next 28 stitches, then (sc, ch2, sc) in corner ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (sc, ch2, sc). Join with invisible join to beginning sc. Break off yarn. (120 sc, 4 ch2. 128 stitches in total) 12) With denim, begin with standing dc in any ch2 corner space. (ch2, dc) in same space. \*bpdc in next 14 stitches, then fptc around the two fpdc from round 10. Skip next two stitches, bpdc in next 14 stitches, then (dc, ch2, dc) in corner ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (dc, ch2, dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (112 bpdc, 8 fpdc, 8 dc, 4 ch2. 136 stitches in total) This is what your fptc around the fpdc from round 10 should look like. Sew in all ends.
Outer square no. 2
You need to make eight of these. 1) With cream, in a magic circle ch3 (counts as one dc), then 11 dc. Join with invisible join to beginning ch3. Pull the beginning yarn end tight to close the circle. Break off yarn. (12 dc) 2) With storm blue, begin with a standing dc in any stitch. \*(fpdc, ch2, fpdc) around next stitch, then dc in next two stitches\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final dc. Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (8 fpdc, 8 dc, 4 ch2. 24 stitches in total)
3)With dark brown, begin with standing dc in the first stitch of round two (where you've joined the end to the beginning of the round). \*fpdc around next stitch, then (dc, ch2, dc) in ch2 space. Fpdc around next stitch, then dc in next stitch. Ch1, then dc in next stitch\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final dc. Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (16 dc, 8 fpdc, 4 ch1, 4 ch2. 36 stitches in total)
4） With copper, begin with standing dc in any ch2 corner space. (ch2, dc) in same space. \*fpdc around next stitch, dc in next two stitches, then (dc, ch1, dc) in ch1 space. Dc in next two stitches, fpdc around next stitch, then (dc, ch2, dc) in corner ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (dc, ch2, dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (24 dc, 8 fpdc, 4 ch1, 4 ch2. 44 stitches in total)
5）With white, begin with standing dc in any ch2 corner space. (ch2, dc) in same space. \*fpdc around next stitch, then dc in next three stitches. Fpdc around next stitch, hdc in ch1 space, then fpdc around next stitch. Dc in next three stitches, then fpdc around next, and (dc, ch2, dc) in corner ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (dc, ch2, dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (32 dc, 16 fpdc, 4 hdc, 4 ch2. 60 stitches intotal)
This is what your two fpdc should look like, with a hdc in between. 6) With grey, begin with standing dc in any ch2 corner space. (ch2, dc) in same space. \*fpdc around next stitch, then dc in next four stitches. Fptc around the second fpdc from round five, skip next stitch, and sc in next. Fptc around the first fpdc from round five, and skip next stitch. Dc in next four stitches, then (dc, ch2, dc) in corner ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (dc, ch2, dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (40 dc, 8 fpdc, 8 fptc, 4 sc, 4 ch2. 68 stitches in total)
This is what your crossed stitches should look like. 7)With mocha, begin with standing dc in any ch2 corner space. (ch2, dc) in same space. \*fpdc around next stitch, then hdc in next three stitches. Sc in next seven stitches, then hdc in next three stitches. Fpdc around next stitch, then (dc, ch2, dc) in corner ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (dc, ch2, dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (28 sc, 24 hdc, 8 dc, 8 fpdc, 4 ch2. 76 stitchesintotal) 8) With black, begin with standing dc in any ch2 corner space. (ch2, dc) in same space. \*fpdc around next stitch, then hdc in next three stitches. Sc in next nine stitches, then hdc in next three stitches. Fpdc around next stitch, then (dc, ch2, dc) in corner ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (dc, ch2, dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (36 sc, 24 hdc, 8 dc, 8 fpdc, 4 ch2. 84 stitchesintotal) 9)With white, begin with standing dc in any ch2 corner space. (ch3, dc) in same space. \*fpdc around next stitch, dc in next stitch, then skip next stitch. Dc in next four stitches, then fptc around fptc from round six. Skip next stitch, dc in next four stitches, then fptc around fptc from round six. Skip next stitch, and dc in next five stitches. Fpdc around next stitch, then (dc, ch3, dc) in corner ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (dc, ch3, dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (64 dc, 8 fptc, 8 fpdc, 4 ch3. 92 stitches in total)
10) With denim, begin with standing dc in any ch3 corner space. (dc, ch3, 2dc) in same space. \*fpdc around next stitch, then bpdc in next six stitches. Fpdc around next stitch, bpdc in next four stitches, then fpdc around next stitch. Bpdc around next six stitches, fpdc around next stitch, then (2dc, ch3, 2dc) in corner ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (2dc, ch3, 2dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (64 bpdc, 16 fpdc, 16 dc, 4 ch3. 108 stitches in total)
11) With dark brown, begin with standing sc in any second dc before ch3 corner space. \*ch5, then sc into the second dc after corner ch3 (skipping over dc, ch3 space, and next dc). Then sc in next 21 stitches\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final sc. Join with sl st to beginning sc. (88 sc, 4 ch5. 108 stitches in total) This is what your corner should look like.
12)Sl st into ch5 corner space. Ch3 (counts as one dc), then (3dc, ch2, 4dc) in same space. \*hdc in next 22 stitches, then (4dc, ch2, 4dc) in corner ch5 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (4dc, ch2, 4dc). Join with invisible join to beginning ch3. Break off yarn. (88 hdc, 32 dc, 4 ch2. 128 stitches in total) 13) With cream, begin with standing sc in any ch2 corner space. (ch2, sc) in same space. \*tc in unworked ch3 space from round 10, skip next stitch, sc in next stitch, then tc in same ch3 space. Skip next stitch, then sc in next 24 stitches. Tc in ch3 space from round 10, skip next stitch, sc in next stitch, then tc in same ch3 space. Then (sc, ch2, sc) in corner ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (sc, ch2, sc). Join with invisible join to beginning sc. Break off yarn. (112 sc, 16 tc, 4 ch2. 136 stitches in total)
This is what your corner should look like. Sew in all ends.
Outer square no. 3 You need to make four of these. 1） With copper, in a magic circle ch3 (counts as one dc) and 11 dc. Join with invisible join to beginning ch3. Pull the beginning yarn end tight to close the circle. Break off yarn. (12 dc) 2) With cream, begin with standing dc in any stitch. \*(fpdc, ch2, fpdc) around next stitch, then dc in next two stitches\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final dc. Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (8 fpdc, 8 dc, 4 ch2. 24 stitches in total) 3）With denim, begin with standing hdc in any ch2 space. (dc, ch1, dc, hdc) in same space. \*sc in next four stitches, then (hdc, dc, ch1, dc, hdc) in ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* twice, then sc in next four stitches. Join with invisible join to beginning hdc. Break off yarn. (8 dc, 8 hdc, 16 sc, 4 ch1. 36 stitches in total)
This is what your square should look like now. 4) With brown, begin with standing dc in any second sc of side. \*ch2, then dc in next stitch. Hdc in next stitch, sc in next stitch, then fptc around the second fpdc from round two. Skip next stitch, then sc in ch1 space. Fptc around the first fpdc from round two, and skip next stitch. Sc in next stitch, hdc in next, then dc in next stitch\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final dc. Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (12 sc, 8 hdc, 8 dc, 8 fptc, 4 ch2. 44 stitches in total)
5)With silver, begin with standing dc in any ch2 space. (dc, ch2, 2dc) in same space. \*Skip next stitch, dc in next two stitches, then fpdc around next stitch. Sc in next stitch, then fpdc around next stitch. Skip next stitch, dc in next two stitches, then (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (2dc, ch2, 2dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (32 dc, 8 fpdc, 4 sc, 4 ch2.52 stitches in total)
6 With cream, begin with standing hdc in any ch2 corner space. (hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in same space. \*fpdc around next stitch, hdc in next three stitches, then fpdc around next stitch. 2hdc in next stitch, then fpdc around next stitch. Skip next stitch, then hdc in next two stitches. fpdc around next stitch, then (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in corner ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc). Join with invisible join to beginning hdc. Break off yarn. (44 hdc, 16 fpdc, 4 ch2.68 stitches in total)
7）With black, begin with standing sc in any ch2 corner space. 2sc in same space. \*skip next stitch, then sc in next 14 stitches and 3sc in corner ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final 3sc. Join with invisible join to beginning sc. Break off yarn. (68 sc) 8) With grey, begin with standing dc in second sc of any corner 3sc. (dc, ch2, dc) in same stitch. \*dc in next two stitches, then fptc around fpdc from round six. Skip next stitch, dc in next stitch, then fptc around the same fpdc from round six. Skip next stitch, then dc in next seven stitches. Fptc around fpdc from round six. Skip next stitch, dc in next stitch, then fptc around the same fpdc from round six. Skip next stitch, dc in next stitch, then (2dc, ch2, dc) in next stitch\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (2dc, ch2, dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (60 dc, 16 fptc, 4 ch3. 88 stitches intotal)
No, this isn't a typo! This is what your corner should look like. This is what your two fptc around the fpdc from round six should look like. 9)With storm blue, begin with standing hdc in any ch2 corner space. (hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in same space. \*fpdc around next three stitches, then hdc in next five stitches. Skip next stitch, fpdc around next stitch, hdc in the same stitch, fpdc around the same stitch, then skip next stitch. Hdc in next five stitches, fpdc around next three stitches, then (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in corner ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc). Join with sl st to beginning hdc. (60 hdc, 32 fpdc, 4 ch2. 100 stitches in total)
This is what the (fpdc, hdc, fpdc) should look like in the centre of the row. 10) Ch1, sc in same stitch and next stitch. \*3sc in ch2 corner space, then sc in next 23 stitches\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final two sc. Join with invisible join to beginning sc. Break off yarn. (104 sc) 11) With mocha, begin with standing dc in second sc of any corner 3sc. (ch2, dc) in same stitch. \*dc in next three stitches, then fptc around the third fpdc from round nine. Skip next stitch, dc in next stitch, then fptc around the first fpdc from round nine. Skip next stitch, then dc in next five stitches. Fptc around fpdc from round nine, skip next stitch, dc in next two, then fptc around fpdc from round nine. Skip next stitch, and dc in next four stitches. Fptc around the third fpdc from round nine. Skip next stitch, dc in next stitch, then fptc around the first fpdc from round nine. Skip next stitch, dc in next three stitches, then (dc, ch2, dc) in next stitch\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (dc, ch2, dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (84 dc, 24 fptc, 4 ch2. 116 stitches in total)
12) With denim, begin with standing hdc in any ch2 corner space. (hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in same space. \*Skip first stitch, then hdc in next 11 stitches. Fpdc around fptc, hdc in next three stitches, then fpdc around fptc and skip next stitch. Hdc in next 10 stitches, then (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in corner ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc). Join with invisible join to beginning hdc. Break off yarn. (112 hdc, 8 fpdc, 4 ch2. 128 stitches in total)
13) With copper, begin with standing hdc in any ch2 corner space. (ch2, hdc) in same space. \*hdc in next 30 stitches, then (hdc, ch2, hdc) in corner ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (hdc, ch2, hdc). Join with invisible join to beginning hdc. Break off yarn. (128 hdc, 4 ch2. 136 stitches in total) Sew in all ends.
Construction
All the seams on this blanket are worked in single crochet, fronts facing and worked in back loops only. I love the way this gives each square a defined look, and it's a lot easier to do than sewing squares together! You don't have to join with single crochet - a slip stitch also works well, but make sure you keep it from getting too tight. Or, if you prefer, you can just as easily sew the squares together. All the joins are worked in mocha, except for the ‘internal' joins on the small squares, which are worked in storm blue. Begin with the small squares. With storm blue, begin with a slip knot on your hook. Put two squares together, one of combination A and one of combination B, front side together, and begin in the stitch after the corner sc (i.e., leave the corner sc unworked on the outside edge). Work along the edge of the squares in the back loops only (the ‘outside' loop of the squares when you look down on it).
Leave the outside corner stitch unworked.
When you get to the end of the squares, work a sc through back loops of the corner sc. Then line up the next two squares (one of combination B and one of combination A) and work the next sc through the back loops of the corner sc of the second squares. Work along the edge of the squares to the end. Leave the corner sc unworked. Break off yarn. You should now have four squares attached to each other along a 'horizontal'. Turn the squares and work the ‘vertical' join in the same way. When you get to the centre point (where the corners of all four squares meet), work the two corner stitches of the squares as above, “leaping over' the horizontal join.
You should end up with four larger squares, each composed of four little squares. Don't sew the ends in yet; leave that until later.
It may look a little wonky at this point. Don't worry, it will look fine by the end. Now you'll be joining everything together. At this stage, I like to lay my blankets out and pin them together with safety pins (either regular straight safety pins, or the curved kind that quilters use). You don't need to do this, but I find it helpful to keep it straight in my head which square comes next in my joining. I always work the “horizontal' joins first, then the ^vertical' joins. For the outer squares, which have ch2 corners, you should work a sc into the back loop of one corner ch at the beginning and end of each square. When you get to a place where the middle of the four small squares meets the middle of a larger square, you need to work a sc into each corner sc stitch, plus a sc2tog across both corner sc stitches from the small squares. So you'll work a section of back loop sc as usual, up to the corner sc from the small square. Then work sc2tog through the two corner sc stitches from the small squares, but in the same stitch of the larger square. Then work a sc into the second corner sc from the small squares, and continue to the end of the edge as usual. When you are working into the sides of the rectangle sections, aim to work one sc for every row of sc, and two sc for every row of dc. The general rule is to space them evenly so the midpoint of the join is between the mocha and the black stripes, and the rectangle section isn't stretched awkwardly anywhere. There are, obviously, no back loops to work into along the sides of the rectangle sections. Just try to work through the sc and dc stitches, rather than around them. Don't worry if occasionally you find you've made a mistake with stitch counts and need to fudge’ it and work two stitches from one square into one stitch of another. Crochet is extremely forgiving! Work the extra stitch in the corner if you need to, not in the middle of the row. But do double-check that you've started your join in the right place and included or skipped over corner stitches as appropriate. When you've finished all the joins, don't sew in the ends. Leave that until after the border is done; it'll be easier then.
Border
This border is almost identical to the border of the ‘Demelza' blanket, except a slight stitch count adjustment at the corners. Demelza is part of the fabric of Ross's life, and it makes a nice symbolism to use the same border. The border is basically a repeating pattern, worked in mocha, except the last round, which is worked in storm blue. 1）With mocha, begin with a standing sc in any corner stitch. 2sc in same stitch. Sc in each stitch across the whole edge. When you get to a point where the corners of two squares meet, sc in the first corner ch2 space, sc2tog across the two corners, then sc in the second corner ch2 space. The extra stitch makes sure that the border doesn't contract across the space of the sc joins. When you get to where you started, join with sl st. You should end up with 209 sc on each side, plus a corner sc. 2) Ch1, sc into same stitch. 3sc in next stitch (the 2nd sc of corner 3sc). ^Sc in next stitch, then ch3. \*Sc into next two stitches, then skip next two stitches. Work a shell stitch in next stitch (dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc). Skip next two stitches, sc into next two, then ch3\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* 22 times, then sc in next stitch and 3sc in corner stitch^^. Repeat from ^ to ^^ three times. Join with sl st to beginning SC. 3)Sl st into 2nd sc of corner 3sc (two slip stitches). Ch1, ^3sc into same stitch. Skip next two stitches, then work a shell stitch in next ch3. \*Ch2, skip next five stitches, then (sc, ch3, sc) in next ch1 space. Ch2, skip next five stitches, then work a shell stitch in next ch3\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* 22 times. Skip next two stitches, then 3sc in next stitch^^. Repeat from ^ to ^^ three times. Join with sl st to beginning SC. 4)Sl st into 2nd sc of corner 3sc (one slip stitch). Ch4 (counts as dc + ch1), then (dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc) in same stitch. ^\*Ch2, skip next four stitches, then (sc, ch3, sc) in next ch1 space. Ch2, skip next five stitches, then work a shell stitch in next ch3 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* 22 times, then skip next five stitches, and (sc, ch3, sc) in next ch1 space. Ch2, skip next four stitches, then work a shell stitch in next ch3 space^\~. Repeat from ^ to ^^ three times, omitting final shell stitch. Join with sl st to 3rd chain of beginning ch4.
5) Sl st into first ch1 space of the corner shell (one slip stitch). Ch4 (counts as sc + ch3), then sc in same space. (Skip next stitch, then (sc, ch3, sc) in next ch1 space) twice. ^Ch2, skip next four stitches, then work a shell stitch in next ch3 space. \*Ch2, skip next five stitches, then work (sc, ch3, sc) in next ch1 space. Ch2, skip next five stitches, then work a shell stitch in next ch3 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* 23 times. Then ch2, skip next four stitches. (sc, ch3, sc) in ch1 space. (Skip next stitch, then sc, ch3, sc) in next ch1 space) twice. Repeat from ^ to ^ three times, omitting final three (sc, ch3, sc). Join with invisible join to 1"t chain of beginning ch4. Break off yarn.
6) With storm blue, begin with standing sc in second (sc, ch3, sc) of any corner. (ch3, sc) in same space. ^Ch1, skip next two stitches, then (sc, ch2, sc) in next ch3 space. Skip next stitch, then \*2sc in ch2 space. Skip next stitch, then sc in next five stitches. Skip next stitch, then 2sc in ch2 space. Skip next stitch, then in ch3 space (sc, ch2, sc). Skip next two stitches\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* 23 times, omitting final (sc, ch2, sc). Skip next stitch, then in ch3 space (sc, ch2, sc). Ch1, skip next two stitches, then (sc, ch3, sc) in ch3 space^\~. Repeat from ^ to ^^ three times, omitting final (sc, ch3, sc). Join with invisible join to beginning sc. Break off yarn.
Sew in all ends.
