Mobius Mitts V.1
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Welcome!
Thanks for coming to check out this unusual and slightly geeky creation. People will be fascinated when you hand over your mitts and let them twist and try to work them out! The beauty of the mobius loop for knitting and crochet is that you get to work either side of the cast on row/foundation chain, so that you start your work in the middle and go outwards:
I have used a blue and a green stitch marker to keep track of rows. Because each 'row' takes you the distance between two markers it should not be too hard to follow. It's a good idea to look up at the diagram above and starting at the blue marker, follow the edge around until it hits the green marker - this will be called one 'row'. Apologies for the evolving nature of this pattern and the many updates. Please just download the most recent version from my blog or ravelry before starting your project. I would love to see any photos of your finished gloves if you would like to send them to me (pixelatedmushroom@gmail.com). Feel free to contact me if you have any worries or questions. Hope you have as much fun crocheting as I did designing the pattern!
Yarn
Pictured on the front of this pattern is Bendigo Woollen Mills Rustic 8 ply (DK) (Ravelry link) in 'midnight tweed'. 50 grams (1.7 oz) will usually make a small pair, you will need 70-80+ (2.4-2.8 oz) for the larger sizes. Leftover 1/2 skeins are great for the colour variations. Try and match the wool of your choice to a hook that will match the below gauge. Please check your work after row 5 as indicated in the pattern.
Gauge
5 sts and 4 rows in half-double crochet per inch with the smaller of your hooks. Sizing small [medium, large] Approximate measurements depend heavily on yarn choice and gauge: small: 3.5in (9cm) wide, 3.5in (9cm) tall at smallest point medium: 4in (10cm) wide, 3.5in (9cm) tall at smallest point large: 4.5in (11cm) wide, 4.5 (11cm) tall at smallest point If you are finding none of these sizes match, you can add/remove an amount of stitches from the initial starting chain and first 3 rows, then continue following the pattern, trying on frequently as you go.
Tools
5mm crochet hook 5.5mm crochet hook (or simply make your starting chain more loosely) A green and a blue stitch marker (or scraps of yarn) Stitches/Abbreviations (US crochet terms) Sts = Stitches Ch = Chain Sc = Single crochet Hdc = Half-double crochet [video] Dc = Double crochet Sc-dec = Single crochet decrease [video] Hdc-inc = Half-double crochet increase [video]
The Pattern
Right Mitt
Using your larger hook, chain 30[34, 40] Change to smaller hook Row 1) Make 2 turning chains, then hdc30[34, 40] Flip the work over horizontally as if to start the next row, then lay work on a flat surface as shownbelow
Arrange working yarn to top left as shown here
ttom left corner away from you 180deg until it becomes the top left corne
2) Insert hook into the stitch indicated above and sc1 (shown below), then continuing in the same direction hdc 29[33, 39]
3) Place a green stitch marker here, then hdc 30[34, 40] 4) Place a blue stitch marker here, hdc-inc, hdc-inc, hdc remaining sts to green marker 5) hdc to blue marker (place work around four fingers and check that it isn't too tight. It should be somewhat loose at this point. You may consider redoing these rows with a larger hook or going up a size if not) 6) hdc-inc, hdc, hdc, hdc-inc, hdc remaining sts to green marker 7) hdc to blue marker hdc-inc, hdc-inc, hdc, hdc-inc, hdc-inc hdc remaining sts to green marker 9) hdc to blue marker 10) hdc1, chain 2[4, 9], sc in the 9th stitch from hook (makes thumb hole), hdc remaining sts to green marker 11) hdc to blue marker 12) hdc to green marker [Large size only: repeat rows 11 and 12] 13) hdc to blue marker 14) hdc to green marker 15) hdc to blue marker 16) hdc, dc24, hdc remaining sts to green marker (start new colour now if desired) 17) hdc21, dc remaining sts to blue marker 18) dc24, hdc to two sts before the green marker, sc-dec 19) sc-dec, sc16, hdc, dc remaining sts to blue marker 20) dc16, hdc2, sc1, slip1 21) turn work, sc in 2nd stitch from hook, hdc, dc to blue marker 22) dc8, hdc2, sc2, slip1 Break yarn leaving a long tail then thread tail through stitch on hook and pull tight. Sew in end. Use loose end from cast on row to sew up the hole between cast on chain and row 2.
Left Mitt
Using your larger hook, chain 30[34, 40] Change to smaller hook Row 1) Make 2 turning chains, then hdc 30[34, 40]
Flip the work over horizontally as if to start the next row, then lay work on a flat surface as shownbelow Arrange working yarn to top left as shown here
Twist the bottom left corner towards you 180deg until it becomes the top left corner
2) Insert hook into the stitch indicated above and sc1.. (shown below)
turn work, then hdc 31[35, 41]
Rows 3-22) Same as for left hand
Colours variations
For these colour variations start the second colour at row 17
rhis is great for using up little bits of lovely leftovers from other projects
To crochet a simple yarn flower
1） magic loop 5, leaving a long tail 2) \*ch3, slip1 into next st\* repeat to end Weave in the end of thread and sew to finger part of gloves
Wearing the Mitts
Find the thumbhole and work your hand into the opening. Then arrange the flap across the
The mobius strip will twist around to adjust for the angle of your hand Depending on the thickness of your chosen yarn you wil end up with differing bulk around the inside of the wrist. For an 8 ply yarn is should be possible to arrange it as above with just a small fold as above.
It's worth noting that crochet does have a back and a front side. Because these gloves are worked as a mobius, sides change the centre point (see above). The front of crochet looks like distinct chunky sts (above the line), the back looks like a tight slanted stitch (below the line) Mobius Mitts are designed to show one side for the majority of the gloves, with just a hint of the back side around the wrist. You can choose which you prefer, and then access your preferred side by turning your gloves fully inside out between the two options.
