Caitlin's Favorite Sock, Knooking version
This is my favorite toe-up sock recipe, for using a knook.
GLOSSARY
CH: chain LLD PW (Left Leaning Decrease PurlWise): Enter the next st as you normally would for a purl, then enter the nest stitch as you normally would for a purl. Wrap the yarn as normal and pull through both loops. M1A (make one away, aka backwards loop increase): With a knook, hook the yarn from the top and twist it clockwise so that you have formed a backwards loop with the top part of the loop pointing towards the knook.
counter-clockwise so that you have formed a backwards loop with the top part of the loop pointing awayfrom theknook. RLD (Right Leaning Decrease): Skip a st, enter the next st as you normally would, then enter the skipped stitch as you normally would. Wrap the yarn as normal and pull through both loops.
ST: stitch
YO (yarn over): Wrap yarn over the knook clockwise (like the start of a double crochet). Wrap yarn the opposite way for Yo Pw (yarn over purlwise).
MEASUREMENTS
Measure your bare foot while standing (or the recipient's foot). You can use inches or cm. Length from tip of big toe to tip of fourth toe: (T) Circumference around ball of foot: (x) Length from tip of big toe to crease where the foot meets the ankle on top of the foot: (A) Length from tip of big toe to inside ankle bone knob: (B) While standing on measuring tape, length from tip of big toe to back of heel: (C) Circumference around ankle: (N) Note: This will only be used if your ankle is significantly different from the ball of your foot. For most people it's close enough to have N be the same as X.
START TOE
Make a chain T in/cm long, rounding the number of stitches down to a multiple of 4. Skip the first ch, and knit into each ch. Pull the knook through so that the sts are on the cord. Turn and knit into the other side of each chain so you have twice the number of sts as the starting chain. You have cast on and knit the first round. Round 2: K1, M1A, K across leaving 1 st, M1T, K1. Repeat on the other side of the sock. Round 3:K around. Repeat rounds 2 and 3 for an inch. Stop and measure your gauge. Stitch gauge (sts per in or cm): Multiply your gauge by X, then multiply by 0.9, and round down to closest number divisible by 4: For a growing child, multiply your gauge by X and round up to the closest number divisible by 4: Repeat rounds 2 and 3 until you reach that number of sts around. Adjust the number of stitches on the last row if you're working a stitch pattern.
FOOT
Knit plain around until the length from the beginning of your work to the raw edge, when the work is unstretched, is A.
GUSSET
I use a version of Fleegle's heel. Start the gusset on the bottom side when the length of your workisA. Round 1: K1, M1A, K across bottom of sock leaving 1 st, M1T, K1. On upper part, K (or stitch pattern). Round 2: K around (following stitch pattern on upper part if necessary). Multiply C by 0.9: _. For a growing child, just use C: Repeat these two rounds until the length of your work unstretched is the number above.
TURN HEEL
Place a marker in the middle of the bottom side, so that there are an equal number of stitches on each side of the marker. If knooking, work this part with a separate cord, pulling the cord through every 1 or 2 rows, as if you're working flat. Row 1: K to 2 sts beyond marker. RLD, K1, turn. Row 2: Sl1, pull the yarn snug, P6. LLD PW, P1, turn. For a growing child, multiply your gauge by N and round up to the closest number divisible by 4: Repeat rounds 3 and 4 until you reach that number of sts around. Adjust the number of stitches on the last row if you're working a stitch pattern.
CUFF
Work the cuff in k2, p2 ribbing (or preferred ribbing, or stitch pattern) until you run out of yarn or the cuff is the height you want. I like to cast off with single crochets around.
