SIMPLICITY TRIANGLE SHAWLby AgaPaulina
Difficulty: easy; medium if it's your first triangular shawl This shawl starts with a provisional cast-on; it's not required, but it makes the central part seamless. If you go for this method, you'll need a few kitchener stitches to join the parts. If you've never tried either, go to YouTube, you'llfind lots of tutorials to help you with these techniques. The model in the photo was knitted with 1.5 skeins of Angora RAM (550 meters/100 grams) on needles 4.5 (US 7) Finished model measures: about 190x85 cm
THE SHAWL
This shawl can be knitted with any yarn on any needles, depending on the result we want to achieve. Laceweight yarn and big needles will turn it into ethereal summer shawl; bulkier yarn will make it a great winter scarf. I do not recommend a very bulky yarn, as this would make the shawl too heavy.
THE PATTERN
The shawl is worked from the center of the longest side. Parts between \*\* should be repeated as many times as necessary. Wrong side - work the stitches as they come. Using provisional method cast on 9 sts. R1: K1, P1, K1, P1, YO, K1, YO, P1, K1, P1, K1 R3 (regular): K1, P1, K1, P1, YO,K1, YO, K1, YO, K1, YO, P1, K1, P1, K1 R5 (regular): K1, P1, K1, P1, YO,K3, YO, K1, YO, K3, YO, P1, K1, P1, K1 R7 (regular): K1, P1, K1, P1, YO,K5, YO, K1, YO, K5, YO, P1, K1, P1, K1 R9 (regular): K1, P1, K1, P1, YO,K7, YO, K1, YO, K7, YO, P1, K1, P1, K1 Red and green mark the border and the "spine" of the shawl; each row on the right side adds 4 new stitches: inside the border and outside the spine. For a nice looking border don't knit the first stitch on both sides, just slip it to the right needle. Continue regular pattern to row 50 R51 (eyelets): K1, P1, K1, P1, YO,\*K2tog, YO\*, K1, YO, K1, YO, \*K2tog, YO\*, K1, YO, P1, K1, P1, K1 R53 (regular): K1, P1, K1, P1, YO,K51, YO, K1, YO, K51, YO, P1, K1, P1, K1 Continue regular pattern to row 78 R79 (eyelets): K1, P1, K1, P1, YO,\*K2tog, YO\*,K1, YO, K1, YO, \*K2tog, YO\*, K1, YO, P1, K1, P1, K1 R81 (regular): K1, P1, K1, P1, YO,K79, YO, K1, YO, K79, YO, P1, K1, P1, K1 Continue regular pattern to row 106 R107 (eyelets): K1, P1, K1, P1, YO,\*K2tog, YO\*,K1, YO, K1, YO, \*K2tog, YO\*, K1, YO, P1, K1, P1, K1 R109 (regular): K1, P1, K1, P1, YO,K107, YO, K1, YO, K107, YO, P1, K1, P1, K1 Continue regular pattern to row 134 (the number of stitches between the borders should be 133) R135-173: follow the EDGING diagram below The diagram shows only half of the shawl, and no border nor spine; remember to include them in your work. The pattern should look like this: K1, P1, K1, P1, EDGING, K1, EDGING, P1, K1, P1, K1 R174: knit/purl border stitches as they come; knit all stitches between the borders R175: knit/purl border stitches as they come; knit all stitches between the borders; remember the 4 YO R176 (Ws): bind off (knit bind-off: knit the first stitch, \*knit the next stitch and pass the first one over the second; repeat from \*) Join the center part of the border and weave in any loose ends.
BLOCKING
When you've finished your knitting, soak your piece in lukewarm water (you might want to use a special yarn detergent - look for the washing instructions on your yarn label); using a towel gently squeeze out the water from the scarf until it's damp. Lay flat, gently stretching it into shape. The longest side should be blocked with wires to keep the edge straight; the lace edging should be blocked with pins to form waves.
PATTERN VARIATIONS
You can modify the pattern to your needs by changing the number of eyelet rows; you can start the lace edging sooner or later - just remember that the number of stitches for the lace pattern must be multiple of 12 plus 1.
