Bramble Shawlette
By Silver Tabby Designs This attractive shawlette is designed to make the most of a single skein of fingering or lace-weight yarn. It is shallow in shape so you get plenty of width to throw over your shoulders without too much of the shawl being hidden down your back. This practical shape works well on its own, and inside a coat, either thrown over the shoulders, or wrapped twice around the neck with the middle at the front.
The crocheted edging is modest and elegant, making this an ideal gift for people who aren't keen on extravagant lacy edges. Both the main shawl and the edging are delightfully simple to make, so don't be put off by the use of both crafts, you only need a few simple stitches.
Notes
Yarn: Madeline Tosh: Tosh Sock (361m, 150g, 4ply weight) 1 skein in Vermillion. Tension: 16 sts and 20 rows over 10cm x 10cm in double moss stitch. Note: this is a looser than normal tension for this yarn. Sizes: At above tension, shawl can be at most 160cm wide, and 35cmdeep. Needles: 3.5mm, or size to obtain tension. A circular needle is recommended to accommodate large number of sts. Other Materials: Tapestry needle to weave in ends, 3mm crochet hook,( or one size smaller than needles used) for edging.
Copyright Maria Bierbaum-Williams 2011 Email silvertabbydesigns@gmail.com Find Silver Tabby Designs on Ravelry, Facebook and Etsy
Method:
Main Shawl
Note: for double moss stitch, you work one row in kind' (knit the knits and purl the purls) and then one row 'against' (purl the knits and knit the purls). When you have two V shapes below every other stitch on the needle, it is time to work an 'against' row. ■
Cast on 4 sts
Row 1: (RS) Kfb, K1, P1, kfb. (6 sts) Row 2: (WS) Kfb, P1, K1, P1, K1, kfb. (8 sts) Row 3: kfb, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, kfb. (10 sts) Row 4: Kfb, \*K1, P1; rep from \* to last st, kfb. (12 sts) Row 5: Kfb, \*K1, P1; rep from \* to last st, kfb. (14 sts) Row 6: Kfb, \*P1, K1; rep from \* to last st, kfb. (16 sts) Row 7: Kfb, \*P1, K1; rep from \* to last st, kfb. (18 sts) Tip: Work the increases at each side very loosely, as these stitches have further to travel than the others
Rows 4-7 set pattern. Continue to work these rows until you have at least 240 sts, or you have less than % of your yarn remaining. ast of very loosely. Either use a larger needle, or work a stretchy cast off. Do not cut yarn
| V | * | * | * | * | * | * | * | 7 | ||||||||
| 6 | v | * | * | * | * | * | * | v | ||||||||
| * | * | * | * | * | v | 5 | ||||||||||
| 4 | * | * | * | * | ||||||||||||
| * | * | * V | 3 1 | |||||||||||||
| 2 | * | * | ||||||||||||||
| v | ||||||||||||||||
| v | * | |||||||||||||||
Email silvertabbydesigns@gmail.com Find Silver Tabby Designs on Ravelry, Facebook and Etsy
Edging
Round 1: ch1 (does not count as st), 5dc into corner st, down short edge work 1dc for each knitted row. Across cast on sts work: 2dc into first st, 1dc into next 2 sts, 2dc into next st. Work up short edge as before, work 5dc into corner st. Across cast off edge, work 1dc for every st. Sl st to first dc. Round 2: ch1 (does not count as st) 1dc in next dc, \*3ch, miss next dc, 1dc in next dc; rep from \* around. In sharp corners, work an extra (3ch, 1dc) in the middle of 5dc from previous round. Work over the blunt corners as normal (no extra repeats of pattern). Sl st to first dc to join. Tip: If you have an incorrect number of stitches approaching a corner, work a repeat skipping 2dc instead of 1, a few cm away from the corner to correct the stitch count Fasten off.
Finishing
Weave in all loose ends. Hand wash in warm water. Block, pinning at least the corner ch-loops, and as many more as you can. Allowto dry.
