Smoking Hot Jodhy
By Monikg Steinbauer
This pattern is written only for one size (women’s size 10),but you can make it easily to fit your foot, by shortening or lengthening the foot part of the sock. It's always a good idea to read through the whole pattern before you start knitting!
Material needed:
$100\mathrm{g}$ Trekking XXL (here in color # 100), 459 yds (you'll need less than this; I've got about $20\mathrm{g}$ left). · 1 set of five double point needles, size 2.25mm (US # 1) Tapestry needle · One stitch marker, optional Gauge 10 rows $=1$ inch
Slip Stitch Pattern:
Multiples of 5 The round starts with needle one. (One and two is top of foot; three and four is sole.) You can put a stitch marker at the beginning of the round. Row 1: K2 - Slp1 - [K4 - Slp1] 5 times, K2, knit to the end of round. Row 2: P2 - K1 - [P4 - K1] 5 times, P2, knit to the end of round.
1. Mitered square: Always slip the first stitch as if to knit and purl the last stitch of each row. This makes it easier to pick up stitches later.
Row 1: With a cable cast on, make 16 stitches, pick up and knit 15 sts of first needle. Turn. Row 2: Slip first stitch, knit to before last stitch, Purl. Turn Row 3: Knit. Turn. Row 4: Knit 14 sts, slip 2-knitl-pass two sts over, knit to end. Turn. Row5 and all odd # rows: knit. Turn. Row 6: K 13, [sl2,K1, psso] K 13. Turn Row 8: K 12, [sl2, K1, psso] K12. Turn Row 10: K 11, [sl2, K1, psso], K11. Turn. Row 12: K 10, [sl2, K1, psso], K 10. Turn. Row 14: K 9, [sl2, K1, psso], K 9. Turn. Row 16: K8, [sl2, K1, psso], K8, Turn. Row 18: K7, [sl2, K1, psso], K7, turn. Row 20: K6, [sl2, K1, psso], K6, turn. Row 22: K5, [sl2, K1, psso], K5, turn. Row 24: K4, [sl2, K1, psso], K4, turn. Row 26: K3, [sl2, K1, psso], k3, turn. Row 28: K2, [sl2, K1. psso], k2, turn. Row 30: K1, [sl2, K1, psso], K1, turn. Row 32: slip one, K2tog, Psso. One stitch left on needle.
Cast on 8 sts each on both needles, using Judy Becker's “magic-cast-on" www.knitty.com/ISSUEspring06/FEATmagiccaston.html
Toe Increase rounds:
K1, m1, k to end of needle1; k to last st of needle 2, ml, k1; k1, m1, k to end of needle 3; k to last st of needle 4, m1, k1. Repeat this round three times. Knit one round. Toe increase round. Repeat those two rounds until you have 15 stitches on each of the four needles. Knit one round. Next round start stitch pattern on needles one and two. Knit needles three and four.
Foot:
Work in this manner until work measures approx. 2 inches less than desired length of foot. (In this case $7\,\%$ inches.) It is very important that you measure the length of the foot on the sole needles (3 and 4), since the stitch pattern on top pulls together (which will be blocked out easily later).
Heel:
Jojo-heel: this is my preferred short row hee. The instructions can be found at www.lanagrossa.com/service/stricktipps/stricktipp socken-mit-jojo-ferse I've tried to make it easier to understand, since I think the translation from German to English (on the Lana Grossa website www.lanagrossa.de ) has suffered a bit. Work the jojo-heel back and forth with the stitches of needles 3 and 4. Divide heel stitches in. threeparts $\mathit{\Theta}=10$ stitches each part) (but only mentally, leave them on the two needles), then work short rows with double stitches from the outside to the inside. 1st row (WS): Knit all stitches on needles 3 and $^{4,}$ turn. 2nd row (RS): start with 1 double stitch: insert needle from right to left into 1st stitch with yarn in front, slip to the right needle, and pull yarn firmly to the back, the stitch is drawn over the needle and is now double. Holes might appear when the yarn is not drawn firmly enough. Purl remaining stitches, including the last stitch on needle 3, turn. Next row: work one double stitch, and then knit all stitches up to the first double stitch of the previous row,turn. next row: work one double stitch, then purl all stitches, up to the double stitch from the previous row.Turn.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until there are 10 double stitches on every side and 10 single stitches at centre. Last row $=$ right side row and at the same time beginning of two rounds which are worked over all stitches, of all four needles. On 1st round pick both parts of double stitch at the same time and knit together. Don't forget to knit the slip stitch pattern on needles 1 and 2. After these 2 rounds work short rows again, with double stitches, however this time from the inside to the outside. ITo prevent holes you can pick up a stitch between needle 4 and 1 and between 2 and 3, but don't forget to decrease this stitch in the next row! 1st row (Rs): knit heel stitches of first 2 thirds (20 stitches), turn. 2nd row (Ws): work one double stitch. Purl to and including the last stitch of centre third, turn. 3rd row (Rs): work one double stitch. knit to double stitch of previous row, knit it the double stitch and the following stitch, turn. 4th row (Ws): work one double stitch. Purl to double stitch of previous row, purl double stitch and the following stitch, turn. [Repeat rows 3 and 4 until 10 double stitches are worked at each side.
You should have 15 stitches left on each of the four needles. This heel Ican be worked form both directions. Cuff down and toe up.
Leg:
After the heel is finished, knit another 5 rows. Slip Stitch pattern on needles one and two and knit on needle three and four. This is purely for effect, so that the heel looks nicer. Break yarn leaving a long tail, which you'll need later to sew up the two rows of squares.
Now we start the leg with the mitered squares:
As instructed above, cast on 16 sts and pick up and knit the first 15 stitches of needle one. (31 sts) Make the mitered square. One sts left on needle. Pick up 15 sts and knit 15 sts of needle number 2. (31 sts) Make second square. Repeat with needle three and four. First row of squares is done. (4 squares) Break the yarn. Cast on 16 stitches again, and pick up and knit 15 sts, from the top edge of the first square from the previous row. Make a square. Repeat all around. (4 squares) After the last square, do NOT break the yarn. You have on stitch left on your needle. Proceed to pick up and knit 15 stitches from the first square, first needle. Pick up stitches for needle two and three. For the fourth needle pick up only 14 stitches; add one stitch from the first needle. You should have 60 stitches on four needles.
Join in the round and [K2, P2] all around for 15 to 20 rows 0 $1\,\%$ or 2 inches), as you like. Bind off as follows: Knit 2 sts, put them back on the left needle and knit those 2 stitches together. Knit one; put 2 stitches back on left needle, knit together, all around. Keep it loose. Bind offlast stitch.
Finishing:
Sew the leg together, with mattress stitch or another invisible stitch, keep it stretchy. Weave in ends (should be 5 ends to be woven in). Make second sock. Block socks. Wear with pride! $\circledast$ If you'd like to make the socks wider and bigger here is information to do so, with the first two sock yarns:
1. Sock (orange): made with Cherry Tree Hill Super Glitz, color “Sugar Maple", super wash merino plied with a strand of glitter - DK weight, 325yds on $3\mathrm{mm}$ needles; cast on 52 sts. Arrange stitches 25 on top of the foot, 27 on sole. Before starting the squares, be sure to arrange the stitches, so each needle has 13 stitches. I could NOT finishe my second sock (size 10) with just one hank. 2. Sock (blue, beige, green stripes): made with Max Print 4-faedig (German sock yarn), $100\mathrm{g}\,420\mathrm{m}$ $75\%$ wool $25\%$ Polyamide, on $2.5\mathrm{mm}$ needles, cast on 60 sts. Top foot-30 sts. Sole 30sts. At $6^{\circ}$ from toe up increase 2 stitches on each side of the sole needles. Increase another 2 stitches during the heel. Be sure to have 16 sts. on each needle for the squares. 3. Sock (greenish): made with Trekking XXL, color # 100; $100\mathrm{g}/459$ yds; $75\%$ wool $25\%$ polyamide on $2.25\mathrm{mm}$ needles; cast on 60 sts. Make as written instruction for the Smoking Hot Sock.
