DemelzaBlanket
This blanket has been inspired by the character \*Demelza', from BBC's Poldark (2015). I used Demelza's colour palette and incorporated her love of flowers into each square. Please feel free to sell blankets you make from this pattern, but make sure I am credited as the pattern creator. Please do not sell this pattern, or try to claim this pattern as your own.
Materials
I used Stylecraft Special DK, in the following colours: gold, copper, stone, sage, claret, citron, raspberry, meadow, camel, saffron. I used approximately 102g of gold, 133g of copper, 245g of stone, 93g of sage, 87g of claret, 78g of citron, 54g of raspberry, 102g of meadow, 98g of camel, and 104g of saffron. Stylecraft Special DK comes in 100g balls. Your usage may be more or less depending on your gauge. Hook: 4.5mm. Gauge is not essential for this project. As a guide, the big central square turned out roughly 16 inches for me, worked in DK with a 4.5mm hook. If your square is smaller, your blanket will be correspondingly smaller. If your square is bigger, your blanket will be bigger. Use what feels comfortable to you with the yarn you choose. I tend to have a tight gauge; use your own judgement as to whether you want to go up or down a hook size, or even two! Demelza Blanket You will also need a tapestry needle for sewing in ends, and you may find stitch markers helpful. If you don't have stitch markers, short lengths of a contrasting colour yarn work just as well. Note: I don't feel the need to block squares when using acrylic yarn - because, short of killing' the fibres with steam, blocking doesn't do much! I do, however, wash the blanket when it's done, and tumble dry on low. I find this is a good blocking technique for this particular yarn. It softens the stitches and makes everything relax into shape.
Stitches used
This pattern uses US terminology, and assumes you are familiar with a range of basic and some more intermediate stitches. There are a lot of very good tutorials available online for all of these stitches. Anything that is slightly out of the ordinary will be explained in the pattern, with pictures where necessary. The stitches and abbreviations used are as follows: sl st = slip stitch ch = chain sc = single crochet hdc = half-double crochet dc = double crochet tc = treble crochet bpsc = back post single crochet bphdc = back post half-double crochet bpdc = back post double crochet fphdc = front post half-double crochet fpdc = front post double crochet fptc = front post treble crochet Note: Post stitches are worked around the post of a stitch, rather than through the top of the stitch. Unless otherwise instructed, always assume that you skip over the top of a stitch that has been worked as a front post stitch. tc2tog = work treble crochet decrease across two stitches fphdc2tog = work front post half-double crochet decrease across two stitches fpdc2tog = work front post double crochet decrease across two stitches fptc2tog = work front post treble crochet decrease across two stitches fptc3tog = work front post treble crochet decrease across three stitches or as specified. V stitch = (dc, ch2, dc) in same stitch Narrow V stitch = (dc, ch1, dc) in same stitch Cluster = worked with three dc stitches throughout pattern. Shell stitch= (dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc) in same stitch. Standing stitches: standing sc, standing hdc, standing dc, standing bpsc, standing bpdc. These are a great way to begin a round without joining new yarn with a slip stitch and chains. It makes the first stitch look like all the others, and you can easily make an ‘invisible' join at the end, and so avoid having to slip stitch to join the last stitch to the first stitch in a round. There are a number of excellent tutorials online on how to do these stitches. If you're not happy using standing stitches, just join new yarn in the normal way with a slip stitch and then ch1 for sc, ch2 for hdc, or ch3 for dc, and then at the end of the round join with a sl st to the ‘top’ ch of the beginning chain. Invisible join: There are a number of good tutorials online, and this can be done with either a chained beginning stitch or a standing stitch. This is optional. If you prefer to join the last stitch Demelza Blanket to the first stitch with a slip stitch, feel free to do that. I will generally say ^do an invisible join', but if I specifically say to join with a sl st, then please do that. Magic circle: again, there are lots of tutorials out there. This is a good way of starting a square because it can be drawn tight, and doesn't leave a hole in the middle the way a chain loop does. Foundation double crochet: I love foundation crochet. It eliminates the need for a chained beginning, and has much more stretch than a chain, so is more forgiving. There are some excellent tutorials online. If you're struggling with foundation double crochet, you can work a chain of the correct length and then dc into each stitch as your ‘row one'. The numbers in brackets at the end of each round's instructions are the numbers of stitches that shouldbeinthatround. Note: when breaking off yarn, remember to leave a nice long tail to make it easier to sew it in securely at the end.
Central square
1) With citron, in a magic circle ch3 (counts as one dc), and then 11dc. Join with invisible join to beginning ch3. Break off yarn. Pull the beginning yarn end tight to close the circle. (12 dc) 2) With gold, begin with standing sc in any stitch. Ch5, then sc into same stitch. \*sc in next stitch, ch1, sc in next stitch. (sc, ch5, sc) in next stitch\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* twice, then sc in next stitch, ch1, sc in next stitch. Join with sl st to beginning sc. (16 sc, 4 ch1, 4 ch5. 40 stitches in total) 3) Sl st into ch5 space. ch3 (counts as one dc), then (4dc, ch2, 5dc) in same space. \*skip next sc, then sc into ch1 space from round two. Skip next sc, then in ch5 space (5dc, ch2, 5dc)\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (5dc, ch2, 5dc). Join with invisible join to beginning ch3. (40 dc, 4 ch2, 4 sc. 52 stitches in total) 4) This round is worked behind the petals from round three, into stitches from round two. With raspberry, begin with standing sc in any second sc after ch5 from round two. \*ch4, sc into next sc from round two. Sc in next sc from round two, ch1, sc into next sc from round two (after petal), sc in next\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final sc. Join with sl st to beginning sc. (4 ch4, 4 ch1, 16 sc. 36 stitches in total)
See how I fold down round 3 to access round 2 from behind the petals?
This is what round 4 should look like from the back. 5) Sl st into ch4 space. ch3 (counts as one dc), then (4dc, ch2, 5dc) in same space. \*Skip next two sc, then sc into ch1 space. Skip next two sc, then in ch4 space (5dc, ch2, 5dc)\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (5dc, ch2, 5dc). Join with invisible join to beginning ch3. Break off yarn. (40 dc, 4 ch2, 4 sc. 52 stitches in total) 6) This round is worked behind the second row of petals. With stone, begin with standing sc in any second sc after ch5 from round four. \*ch4, sc into next sc from round four. Ch1, skip next sc from round four, then bpsc around sc from round three (through the “hole′ in the petal of round five). Ch4, bpsc around same sc as first bpsc. Ch1, sc into second sc from round four (after petal)\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final sc. Join with sl st to first sc. (8 sc, 8 bpsc, 8 ch4, 8 ch1. 56 stitches in total)
Demelza Blanket
7) Sl st into ch4 space. Ch3 (counts as dc), then (3dc, ch2, 4dc) in same space. \*sc into ch1 space, then (4dc, ch2, 4dc) in next ch4 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* six times. Sc into next ch1 space, then join with invisible join to beginning ch3. Break off yarn. (64 dc, 4 ch2, 8 sc. 88 stitches in total) This is what you should have now.
8) This round is worked behind the third row of petals. With meadow, begin with standing bpsc in any sc from round seven. \*ch4, bpsc into next sc from round seven\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* seven times, omitting final bpsc. Join with sl st to first bpsc (8 bpsc, 8 ch4. 40 stitches in total) 9) Sl st into ch4 space, ch1. (4sc into ch4 space, sc into bpsc) eight times. Join with sl st to first sc. (40 sc) 10) Ch1 (counts as one sc). sc in next four stitches, then 2sc in next. (4sc, 2sc in next) seven times. Join with invisible join to first sc. Break off yarn. (48 sc) 11) With saffron, begin with standing dc in the first stitch of round 10 (where you've joined the end to the beginning of the round). Ch2, dc in same stitch (V stitch made). \*skip next two sc, V stitch in next (dc, ch2, dc)\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* 14 times, join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (16 V stitches, consisting of 32 dc and 32 ch. 64 stitches in total)
12) With claret, begin with standing dc in first ch2 after the joining stitch of previous round. Then (3dc, ch2, 4dc) in same ch2 space. \*sc in next ch2 space, then (4dc, ch2, 4dc) in next ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* six times, then sc in next ch2 space. Join with invisible join. Break off yarn. (8 ^petals', each consisting of 8dc and one ch2. 8 sc. 88 stitches in total)
13) With camel, begin with standing sc in first dc of any petal. Sc in next three dc, then in ch2 space (sc, ch3, sc). \*sc in next four dc, skip sc, sc in next four dc, then (sc, ch3, sc) in ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* sc times, then sc in next four dc, skip sc. Join with invisible join to beginning sc. (80sc, 8 ch3. 104 stitches in total) 14) With sage, join with standing dc to sc after the first sc of round 13. dc in next stitch, then hdc in next two. Ch3, skip ch3 of round 13, then hdc into next sc. Hdc in next, dc in next two. \*tc2tog across next two sc. Dc in next two, hdc in next two. Ch3, skip ch3 of round 13, then hdc into next sc. Hdc in next, dc in next two\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* six times, then tc2tog across next two sc. Join with invisible join to beginning dc. (8 tc2tog, 32 dc, 32 hdc, 8 ch3. 96 stitches in total)
15) With raspberry, join with standing hdc in any hdc before ch3 space. \*(dc, ch2, dc) into ch3 space from round 13, in front of ch3 from round 14. Then hdc into next nine stitches of round 14\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* seven times, omitting final hdc. Join with invisible join. Break off yarn. (72 hdc, 16 dc, 8 ch2. 104stitchesintotal) See how the dc stitches are worked into the round 13 ch spaces?
16) With citron, begin with standing sc in next ch2 space after end of round 15, then sc in same ch2 space. \*sc in next eleven stitches, then 2sc in next ch2 space. sc in next, hdc in next three, dc in next stitch. In next stitch (dc, ch2, dc). Then dc in next, hdc in next three, and sc in next stitch. 2sc in ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final two sc. Join with invisible join to beginning sc. Break off yarn. (56 sc, 24hdc, 16 dc, 4 ch2 spaces. 104 stitches in total) 17) With stone, begin with standing sc in first sc of round 16 (joining stitch). Sc in next three stitches. \*fpdc around dc from round 15. Skip next stitch, then sc in next six stitches. Fpdc around dc from round 15, skip next stitch, then sc in next five stitches. Hdc in next two stitches, skip next two stitches. In ch2 space (4dc, ch2, 4dc). Skip next two stitches, hdc in next two stitches. Sc in next six stitches\*\*. Repeat from \*to \*\* three times, omitting final four sc. Join with invisible join to beginning sc. Break off yarn. (32 dc, 4 ch2, 8 fpdc, 24 hdc. 140 stitches in total)
Make sure you begin in the right place. 18) With copper, begin with standing bpdc in first dc of any petal. Bpdc in next three dc. \*ch3, skip ch2 space, bpdc in next four dc. Bpdc in next two hdc, then hdc in next two stitches. Sc in next 15 stitches. Hdc in next two stitches, bpdc in next six stitches\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final four bpdc. Join with invisible join to beginning bpdc. Break off yarn. (48 bpdc, 4 ch3 spaces, 16 hdc, 60 sc. 136stitchesintotal)
19) With saffron, begin with standing hdc in any fourth bpdc before corner ch3. hdc in next three stitches. \*2hdc in ch3 space from round 18, tc into ch2 space from round 17, then 2hdc into ch3 space from round 18. Skip first dc after corner ch3, then hdc in next 14 stitches. Fptc around fpdc from round 17, skip next stitch, hdc in next. Fptc around fpdc from round 16, skip next stitch. Hdc in next 13 stitches\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final four hdc. Join with invisible join to beginning hdc. Break off yarn. (4 tc, 8 fptc, 128 hdc. 140 stitches in total)
20) With meadow, begin with standing dc in any corner tc. In same corner tc (2dc, ch2, 3dc). \*skip first hdc, then dc in next four stitches. Skip next stitch, then narrow V stitch in next stitch. Skip next two stitches, then narrow V stitch in next. Skip next two stitches, narrow V stitch in next. Skip next stitch, then dc in next three stitches. Fptc2tog around two fptc from round 19 but work around second fptc first, then first fptc. Skip next stitch, then dc in next three. Skip next stitch, then narrow V stitch in next. Skip next two stitches, then narrow V stitch in next. Skip next two stitches, narrow V stitch in next. Skip next stitch, then dc in next four stitches. In corner tc (3dc, ch2, 3dc)\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\*, omitting final (3dc, ch2, 3dc). Join with invisible join to first dc. Break off yarn. (128 dc, 24 ch1, 4 ch2, 4 fptc2tog. 164 stitches in total)
Fptc2tog - around second fptc first, then first fptc. 21) With camel, begin with standing bpdc in any first dc after ch2 corner space. bpdc in next five stitches. \*skip next stitch, fpdc around next dc (first dc of first narrow V). hdc in ch1 space. fpdc2tog across next two dc, hdc in ch1 space. fpdc2tog across next two dc, hdc in ch1 space. fpdc around next dc (second dc of third narrow V) Note: you do not work into the top of any of the dc stitches of the round 20 narrow V stitches. Skip next stitch, then hdc in next five stitches. Skip next stitch, fpdc around next dc (first dc of first narrow V). hdc in ch1 space. fpdc2tog across next two dc, hdc in ch1 space. fpdc2tog across next two dc, hdc in ch1 space. fpdc around next dc (second dc of third narrow V). Skip next stitch, then bpdc in next six stitches. In corner ch2 space (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc). Bpdc in next six stitches\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final six bpdc. Join with invisible join to beginning bpdc. Break off yarn. (48 bpdc, 16 fpdc, 16 fpdc2tog, 60 hdc 4 ch2. 148 stitches in total)
22) With claret, begin with standing hdc in any second hdc before corner ch2 space. \*skip next stitch, ch5, skip ch2 from round 21, then hdc into third hdc after corner ch2. hdc in next 31 stitches\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final hdc. Join with invisible join to beginning hdc. Break off yarn. (128 hdc, 4 ch5. 148 stitches in total)
This is what your corner should look like. 23) With gold, begin with standing dc in any ch5 space. In same ch5space (3dc, ch2, 4dc). \*Skip first hdc, dc in next six stitches. (Fptc3tog in fpdc from round 21, dc in next five stitches) four times across side, then dc in next. In ch5 space (4dc, ch2, 4dc)\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (4dc, ch2, 4dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (16 fptc3tog, 140 dc, 4 ch2. 164 stitches in total)
24) With sage, begin with standing sc in any corner ch2. (sc, ch2, 2sc) in same space. \*tc in ch2 space from round 21, skip next stitch, sc in next, tc in same ch2 space from round 21, skip next stitch. Sc in next 33 stitches. Then tc in ch2 space from round 21, skip next stitch, sc in next, tc in same ch2 space from round one, skip next stitch. In ch2 from round 23 (2sc, ch2, 2sc)\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\*, omitting final (2sc, ch1, 2sc). Join with invisible join to beginning sc. Break off yarn. (16 tc, 156 dc, 4 ch2. 180 stitches intotal)
25) With copper, begin with standing dc in any corner ch2. (dc, ch4, 2dc) in same space. \*skip first stitch, then dc in next 13 stitches. Fptc around fptc3tog from round 23, skip next stitch, then dc in next 14 stitches. Fptc around fptc3tog from round 23, skip next stitch, then dc in next 13 stitches. In corner ch2 (2dc, ch4, 2dc)\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (2dc, ch4, 2dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (8 fptc, 176 dc, 4 ch3. 200 stitches in total) 26) With stone, begin with standing sc in any third dc before corner ch4. Skip next two stitches. \*in corner ch4 (5dc, ch2, 5dc). Skip next two stitches, then sc in next two. Hdc in next two stitches, then dc in next 11 stitches. Fptc around fptc from round 25, skip next stitch. Dc in next 11 stitches, fptc around fptc from round 15, skip next stitch. Dc in next 10 stitches. Hdc in next two stitches, sc in next two, then skip next two stitches\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final sc. Join with invisible join to beginning sc. Break off yarn. \*8 fptc, 16 sc, 168 dc, 4 ch2. 216 stitches in total)
27) With raspberry, begin with standing sc in any corner ch2. 2sc in same corner. \*bpsc in next five stitches. Fpdc in next two stitches, hdc in next two. Sc in next 34 stitches. Hdc in next two stitches, fpdc in next two. Bpsc in next five stitches, then 3sc in ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final eight stitches. Join with invisible join to beginning sc. Break off yarn. (148 sc, 40 bpsc, 16 fpdc, 16 hdc, 4 ch2.228 stitches in total)
28) With saffron, begin with standing hdc in the second sc of any corner 3sc. (ch2, hdc) in same stitch. \*hdc in next four stitches, dc in next two. Fphdc2tog across next two fpdc. Hdc in next 16 stitches, fptc around fptc from round 16, skip next stitch. Hdc in next six stitches, fptc around fptc from round 26, skip next stitch. Hdc in next 14 stitches. Fphdc2tog across next two fpdc. Dc in next two stitches, hdc in next four, then (hdc, ch2, hdc) in next stitch\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (hdc, ch2, hdc). Join with invisible join to beginning hdc. Break off yarn. (8 fphdc2tog, 8 dc, 8 fptc, 184 hdc, 4 ch3. 220stitchesintotal
This is what the fphdc2tog should look like. 29) With claret, begin with standing dc in any corner ch2 space. (2dc, ch2, 3dc) in same space. \*skip first hdc, dc in next five stitches. Skip next stitch, narrow V in next. Skip next two, narrow V in next. Skip next two, narrow V in next. Skip next stitch, then dc in next 11 stitches. Fptc around fptc from round 28, skip next stitch, dc in next two stitches then fptc around fptc from round 28. Skip next stitch, then dc in next nine stitches. Skip next stitch, narrow V in next. Skip next two, narrow V in next. Skip next two, narrow V in next. Skip next stitch, then dc in next six stitches. In ch2 space (3dc, ch2, 3dc)\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\*, omitting final (3dc, ch2, 3dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (8 fptc, 204 dc, 24 ch1, 4 ch2. 244 stitches in total) 30) With citron, begin with standing sc in any corner ch2 space. 2sc in same space. \*bphdc in next five stitches, sc in next 49 stitches, then bphdc in next five stitches. 3sc in corner ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final 3sc. Join with invisible join to beginning sc. Break off yarn. (40 bphdc, 208 sc. 248 stitches in total) 31) With copper, begin with standing hdc in any second sc of corner 3sc. (ch2, hdc) in same stitch. \*hdc in next 31 stitches. Fptc2tog across the two fptc from round 29 but work around second fptc first, then first fptc. Skip next stitch. Hdc in next 29 stitches. (hdc, ch2, hdc) in next stitch \*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final 3sc. Join with invisible join to beginning hdc. Break off yarn. (4 fptc2tog, 248 hdc, 4 ch2. 260 stitches in total)
Fptc2tog around second fptc first, then the second fptc. 32) With sage, begin with standing hdc in any ch2 corner space. 2hdc in same space. \*bphdc in next 63 stitches, then 3hdc in corner ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final 3hdc. Join with invisible join to beginning hdc. Break off yarn. (12 hdc, 252 bphdc. 264 stitches in total, 65 stitches per side plus ‘corner' stitch). Sew in all ends.
Demelza Blanket
Rectangle section
Notes: This is worked up with alternating rows of double crochet + post stitches, and single crochet. You turn the piece at the end of each row. The single crochet is worked with the back side of the piece facing, the double crochet + post stitches are worked with the front side facing. You may find it helpful to use stitch markers to mark where you put the post stitches. You need to make four of these rectangles. 1)With camel, work 65 foundation double crochet. Sc in same stitch, then sc in next 64 stitches. Break off yar 3）With sage, begin with standing dc in first sc of row. Dc in next three stitches, then fptc around fifth foundation dc from row one. Dc in next nine stitches, then fptc around 15th foundation dc from row one. Dc in next nine stitches, then fptc around 25th foundation dc from row one. Dc in next seven stitches, then fptc around 33rd foundation dc from row one. Dc in next seven stitches, then fptc around 41st foundation dc from row one. Dc in next nine stitches, then fptc around 51st foundation dc from row one. Dc in next nine stitches, then fptc around 61st foundation dc from row one. Dc in next four stitches. (7 fptc, 58 dc).
4) Turn, ch1. Sc in same stitch, then sc in next 64 stitches. Break off yarn. Turn. 5) With saffron, begin with standing dc in first sc of row. Dc in next three stitches, then fptc around fptc from row three. Dc in next nine stitches, then fptc around fptc from row three. Dc in next nine stitches, then fptc around fptc from row three. Dc in next six stitches. fptc around fptc from row three, skip next stitch, dc in next stitch, fptc around the same fptc from row three, skip next stitch. Dc in next six stitches, then fptc around fptc from row three. Dc in next nine stitches, then fptc around fptc from row three. Dc in next nine stitches, then fptc around fptc from row three. Dc in next four stitches. (8 fptc, 57 dc)
6)Turn, ch1. Sc in same stitch, then sc in next 64 stitches. Break off yarn. Turn. 7） With gold, begin with standing dc in first sc of row. Dc in next two stitches. Fptc around fptc from row five, skip next stitch, dc in next stitch, fptc around same fptc, skip next stitch. Dc in next eight stitches, then fptc around fptc from row five. Dc in next nine stitches, then fptc around fptc from row five. Dc in next seven stitches, then fptc3tog around 29th dc from row five (between the two fptc from row five). Dc in next seven stitches. Fptc around fptc from row three, then dc in next eight stitches. Fptc around fptc from row five, skip next stitch, dc in next stitch, fptc around same fptc, skip next stitch. Dc in next eight stitches, fptc around fptc from row five, then dc in next four stitches. (8 fptc, 1 fptc3tog, 56 dc)
8) Turn, ch1. Sc in same stitch, then sc in next 64 stitches. Break off yarn. Turn. 9) With claret, begin with standing dc in first sc of row. Dc in next three stitches, then fptc3tog around fourth dc of row seven (between two fptc). Dc in next eight stitches. Fptc around fptc from row seven, skip next stitch, dc in next stitch, fptc around same fptc from row seven, then skip next stitch. Dc in next eight stitches, then fptc around fptc from row seven. Dc in next 14 stitches. Fptc around fptc from row seven, skip next stitch, dc in next stitch, fptc around same fptc from row seven, skip next stitch. Dc in next eight stitches, then fptc3tog around 45th dc from row seven (between two fptc). Dc in next eight stitches. Fptc around fptc from row seven, skip next stitch, dc in next stitch, fptc around same fptc from row seven, skip next stitch. Dc in next three stitches. (2 fptc3tog, 7 fptc, 56 dc) 10) Turn, ch1. Sc in same stitch, then sc in next 64 stitches. Break off yarn. Turn. 11) With citron, begin with standing dc in first sc of row. Dc in next 13 stitches. Fptc3tog around 13th dc from row nine (between two fptc), then dc in next eight stitches. Fptc around fptc from row nine, skip next stitch, dc in next stitch, fptc around same fptc from row nine, skip next stitch. Dc in next 14 stitches, then fptc3tog around 36"h dc from row nine (between two fptc). Dc in next 19 stitches. Fptc3tog in 53rd dc of row nine (between two fptc). Dc in next four stitches. (3 fptc3tog, 2 fptc, 60dc) Sc in same stitch, then sc in next 64 stitches. Break off yar 13) With copper, begin with standing dc in first sc of row. Dc in next 23 stitches. Fptc3tog around 23rd dc from row 11. Dc in next seven stitches, then fptc around 30th dc from row 11. This should be in the centre of your row. Dc in next 32 stitches. (1 fptc3tog, 1 fptc, 63 dc)
14) Turn, ch1. Sc in same stitch, then sc in next 64 stitches. Break off yarn. Turn. 15) With stone, begin with standing dc in first sc of row. Dc in next three stitches. Fptc around fifth dc of row 13. Dc in next 27 stitches, then fptc around fptc from row 13. Dc in next 17 stitches. Fptc around 49th dc of row 13 (51st stitch of row). Dc in next 14 stitches. (3 fptc, 62 dc) 16) Turn, ch1. Sc in same stitch, then sc in next 64 stitches. Break off yarn. Turn.
17) With meadow, begin with standing dc in first sc of row. Dc in next three stitches, then fptc around fptc from row 15. Dc in next nine stitches. Fptc around 14th dc of row 15 (15th stitch of row). Dc in next 17 stitches, then fptc around fptc from row 15. Dc in next seven stitches. Fptc around 39th dc of row 15 (41st stitch of row). Dc in next nine stitches, then fptc around fptc from row 15. Dc in next nine stitches. Fptc around 58th dc of row 15 (61st stitch of row). Dc in next four stitches. (5 fptc, 60 dc). 18) Turn, ch1. Sc in same stitch, then sc in next 64 stitches. Break off yarn. Turn. 19) With saffron, begin with standing dc in first sc of row. Dc in next two stitches. Fptc around fptc from row 17, skip next stitch, dc in next stitch, fptc around same fptc, and skip next stitch. Dc in next eight stitches, then fptc around fptc from row 17. Dc in next nine stitches. Fptc around 23rd dc of row 17 (25th stitch of row). Dc in next six stitches. Fptc around fptc from row 17, skip next stitch, dc in next stitch, fptc around same fptc, then skip next stitch. Dc in next six stitches, then fptc around fptc from row 17. Dc in next eight stitches. Fptc around fptc from row 17, skip next stitch, dc in next stitch, fptc around same fptc, then skip next stitch. Dc in next eight stitches, then fptc around fptc from row 17. Dc in next four stitches. (10 fptc, 55 dc) 20) Turn, ch1. Sc in same stitch, then sc in next 64 stitches. Break off yarn. Turn. 21) With raspberry, begin with standing dc in first sc of row. Dc in next three stitches, then fptc3tog around fourth dc of row 19 (between two fptc). Dc in next nine stitches, fptc around fptc from row 19, then dc in next eight stitches. Fptc around fptc from row 19, skip next stitch, dc in next stitch, fptc around same fptc, and skip next stitch. Dc in next six stitches. Fptc3tog around 28th dc of row 19 (between two fptc). Dc in next seven stitches, fptc around fptc from row 19, then dc in next nine stitches. Fptc3tog around 43rd dc from row 19 (between two fptc). Dc in next eight stitches. Fptc around fptc from row 19, skip next stitch, dc in next stitch, fptc around same fptc, and skip next stitch. Dc in next three stitches. (3 fptc3tog, 6 fptc, 56 dc) 22) Turn, ch1. Sc in same stitch, then sc in next 64 stitches. Break off yarn. Turn. 23) With camel, begin with standing dc in first sc of row. Dc in next 12 stitches. Fptc around fptc from row 21, skip next stitch, dc in next stitch, fptc around same fptc, and skip next stitch. Dc in next eight stitches, then fptc3tog around 22nd dc of row 21 (between two fptc). Dc in next fourteen stitches. Fptc around fptc from row 21, skip next stitch, dc in next stitch, fptc around Demelza Blanket same fptc, and then skip next stitch. Dc in next 18 stitches. Fptc3tog around 53rd dc of row 21 (between two fptc). Then dc in next four stitches. (4 fptc, 2 fptc3tog, 50 dc) I. Sc in same stitch, then sc in next 64 stitches. Break off y 25) With gold, begin with standing dc in first sc of row. Dc in next 13 stitches, then fptc3tog around 14th dc of row 23 (between two fptc). Dc in next 25 stitches, then fptc3tog around 37th dc of row 23 (between two fptc). Dc in next 24 stitches. (2 fptc3tog, 63 dc). 26) Turn, ch1. Sc in same stitch, then sc in next 64 stitches. Break off yarn. Sew in all ends.
Small corner squares You'll be making 16 of these, 8 in colour combination A and 8 in colour combination B. The first colour combination, A, is italicised, and the second, B, is in (bolded brackets) Combination A: Raspberry, stone, gold, meadow. Combination B: Camel, claret, saffron, meadow. 1) With raspberry (camel), in a magic circle ch3 (counts as dc), 2 dc, and then (ch2, 3dc) three times. Ch2, then join with invisible join to beginning ch3. Break off yarn. Pull the beginning yarn end tight to close the circle. (12 dc, 4 ch2. 20 stitches in total) 2) With stone (claret), begin with standing dc in any first dc after ch2 corner. Fptc around next dc, then dc in next dc. \*In corner ch2 space (2dc, ch4, 2dc). Dc in next stitch, fptc around next, dc in next stitch\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final two stitches. Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (24 dc, 4 fptc, 4 ch4. 44 stitches in total)
3) With gold (saffron), begin with standing sc in any third dc of side. Sc in next two stitches. \*Skip next two stitches, then in corner ch4 (5dc, ch2, 5dc). Skip next two stitches, then sc in next three stitches\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final three sc. Join with invisible join to first sc. Break off yarn. (40 dc, 12 sc, 4 ch2. 60 stitches in total)
4) With meadow (meadow), begin with standing sc in any corner ch2. 2sc in same space. \*bpsc in next four stitches. Fptc around fptc from round two, skip next two stitches, dc in next stitch. Fptc around same fptc from round two, skip next two stitches, then bpsc in next four stitches. 3sc in corner ch2\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final 3sc. Join with sl st to first sc. (8 fptc, 32 bpsc, 12 sc, 4 dc. 56 stitches in total)
5) Ch2 (counts as hdc). \*3hdc in next stitch, then hdc in next 13 stitches\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final hdc. Join with invisible join to beginning hdc. Break off yarn. (64 hdc) Sew in all ends.
Demelza Blanket
Flat flower no. 1
You need to make eight of these. 1) With claret, in a magic circle ch1 and then 6sc. Join with sl st to first sc. Pull the beginning yarn end tight to close the circle. (6 sc) 2) Ch1, then 2sc in same stitch and 2sc in each of the next five stitches. Join with invisible join to first sc. Break off yarn. (12 sc). 3)With gold, begin with standing dc in any stitch, then ch1. (dc in next stitch, ch1) 11 times. Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (12 dc, 12 ch1. 24 stitchesintotal) 4) Stitches in this round are worked into chain spaces only. With stone, begin in any ch1 space with a standing dc cluster. (ch3, cluster in next ch1 space) 11 times. Join with invisible join to beginning cluster. Break off yarn. (12 clusters, 12 ch3. 48 stitches in total) 5)With raspberry, begin in any ch3 space with a standing dc cluster. \*ch1, dc in top of cluster, ch1, cluster in next ch3 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* 11 times, omitting final cluster. Join with invisible join to beginning cluster. Break off yarn. (12 clusters, 12 dc, 24 ch1. 48 stitches in total) Your circle may seem to ‘cup' at this point. Don't worry, it will be flat by the end! 6) With saffron, begin with standing dc in any cluster. Ch1. \*Cluster in next ch1 space, ch1, skip dc, then cluster in next ch1 space. Ch1, dc in top of next cluster, then ch1\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* 11 times, omitting final dc + ch1. Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (24 clusters, 12 dc, 36 ch1. 72 stitches in total)
Demelza Blanket 7）Stitches in this round are worked into chain spaces only. With citron, begin with standing dc in any ch1 between clusters. \*Ch1, then cluster in next ch1 space. ch3, cluster in next ch1 space. ch1, dc in next ch1 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* 11 times, omitting final dc. Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (24 clusters, 12 dc, 12 ch3, 24 ch1. 96 stitches in total) 8)With copper, begin with standing dc in any ch3 between clusters. (4dc, ch2, 5dc) in same space. \*Skip next three stitches, then sc in next ch1 space. Skip next stitch, then 5dc in next ch3 space. Skip next stitch, then sc in next three stitches. Skip next stitch, then 5dc in next ch3 space. Skip next stitch, then sc in next ch1 space. Skip next three stitches, then (5dc, ch2, 5dc) in next ch3 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (5dc, ch2, 5dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (80 dc, 20 sc, 4 ch2. 108 stitches in total)
9) With sage, begin with standing dc in any ch2 space. (dc, ch2, 2dc) in same space. \*bpdc around next five stitches, then 2dc into ch1 space from round seven, around the sc from round eight. Skip next dc, bpsc into next three, and skip next dc. Dc into ch1 space from round seven, around the sc from round eight. Hdc in next stitch, then dc into next ch1 space from round seven, around sc from round eight. Skip next dc, bpdc in next three, and skip next dc. 2dc into ch1 space from round seven, around the sc from round eight. Bpdc in next five stitches, then (2dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (2dc, ch2, 2dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (40 dc, 40 bpdc, 24 bpsc, 4 hdc, 4 ch2. 116 stitches)
Make sure you put the dc stitches in the right place, around the sc stitches from round eight 10) With camel, begin with standing dc in any corner ch2. (dc, ch2, 2dc) in same space. \*dc in next nine stitches, hdc in next nine, then dc in next nine stitches. (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner ch2\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (2dc, ch2, 2dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (88 dc, 36 hdc, 4 ch2. 132 stitches in total) 11) With claret, begin with standing sc in any corner ch2. 2sc in same space. \*sc in next 31 stitches, then 3sc in corner ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final 2sc. Join with invisible join to beginning sc. Break off yarn. (136 sc). Sew in all ends.
Demelza Blanket
Flat flower no. 2
You need to make eight of these. 1)With gold, in a magic circle ch1, then 8sc. Join with sl st to first sc. Pull the beginning yarn end tight to close the circle. (8sc) 2) Ch3 (counts as one dc), dc in same stitch. (ch2, 2dc in next) seven times, then ch2. Join with invisible join to beginning ch3. Break off yarn. (16 dc, 8 ch2. 32 stitches in total) 3) With sage, begin with standing dc in any ch2 space. (2dc, ch2, 3dc) in same space. \*Skip next two dc, then in next ch2 space (sc, ch2, sc). Skip next two dc, then in next ch2 space (3dc, ch2, 3dc)\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (3dc, ch2, 3dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (24 dc, 8dc, 8 ch2. 48 stitchesintotal) 4）With camel, begin with standing dc in any ch2 between sc stitches. (4dc, ch2, 5dc) in same space. \*Skip next four stitches, then (sc, ch3, sc) in next ch2 space. Skip next four stitches, then (5dc, ch2, 5dc) in next ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (5dc, ch2, 5dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (40dc, 8dc, 4 ch2, 4ch3.68 stitches in total)
5） With claret, begin with standing dc in any ch3 space. (4dc, ch2, 5dc) in same space. \*Skip next two dc, then sc in third dc. Skip next two dc, then in ch2 space (3dc, ch2, 3dc). Skip next two dc, then sc in third dc. Skip next two dc, then in ch3 space (5dc, ch2, 5dc)\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (5dc, ch2, 5dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (64 dc, 8 sc, 8 ch2. 88 stitches in total)
6） With saffron, begin with standing dc in any sc before (3dc, ch2, 3dc). (2dc, ch2, 3dc) in same stitch. \*Skip next two dc, then bpsc in next. Skip ch2 space, bpsc in next, then skip next two dc. (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in sc. Skip next three dc, sc in next two dc, then (sc, ch4, sc) in ch2 space. Sc in next two dc, then skip next three dc. In sc (3dc, ch2, 3dc)\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (3dc, ch2, 3dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (48 dc, 24 sc, 8 bpsc, 4 ch4, 8 ch2. 112 stitches in total)
Demelza Blanket
With meadow, begin with standing dc in any ch4 space. (2dc, ch2, 3dc) in same space. \*dc in next three stitches, skip next stitch, then bphdc in next two stitches. Skip ch2 space, then bphdc in next three stitches. Skip next stitch, sc into ch2 from round five, then skip next stitch. Bphdc in next three stitches, skip ch2 space, then bphdc in next two stitches. Skip next stitch, dc in next three, then (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in ch4 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (3dc, ch2, 3dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (48 dc, 48 bphdc, 4 sc, 4 ch2. 108 stitches in total)
Pattern Catherine Bligh
8） With copper, begin with standing hdc in any ch2 corner space. 2hdc in same space. \*hdc in next seven stitches. Skip next stitch, sc in ch2 space from round six, then skip next stitch. Sc in next five stitches. Skip next stitch, sc in ch2 space from round six, then skip next stitch. Hdc in next seven stitches, then 3hdc in ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final 3hdc. Join with invisible join to beginning hdc. Break off yarn. (68 hdc, 28 sc. 96 stitches in total)
This is how your round should look with the two sc stitches worked into round six. 9) With stone, begin with standing dc in any 2nd hdc of corner 3hdc. (dc, ch2, 2dc) in same stitch. \*skip next hdc, then dc in next nine stitches. Fptc around first sc from round eight (the sc worked into ch2 space from round seve). Skip next stitch, then dc in next two stitches. Fptc around seventh sc from round eight (the sc worked into the ch2 space from round seven). Skip next stitch, then dc in next nine stitches. In next stitch (2dc, ch2, 2dc)\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (2dc, ch2, 2dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (96 dc, 8 fptc, 4 ch2. 112 stitches in total). 10) With citron, begin with standing sc in any corner ch2 space. 2sc in same ch2 space. \*sc in next 26 stitches, then 3sc in corner ch2\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final 3sc. Join with invisible join to beginning sc. Break off yarn. (116 sc) 11) With gold, begin with standing dc in any 2nd sc of corner 3sc. (dc, ch2, 2dc) in same stitch. \*dc in next 14 stitches. Fptc2tog across the two fptc from round nine but work around second fptc first, then first fptc. Skip next stitch, then dc in next 13 stitches. In next stitch (2dc, ch2, 2dc)\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (2dc, ch2, 2dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (124 dc, 4 fptc2tog, 4 ch2. 136stitches intotal)
Sew in all ends.
You need to make four of these. The first five rounds are the same as the first five rounds from the big central square, but in different colours. 1) With raspberry, in a magic circle ch3 (counts as one dc here and throughout) then 11 dc. Join with invisible join to beginning ch3. Break off yarn. Pull the beginning yarn end tight to close the circle. (12 dc) 2) With stone, begin with standing sc in any stitch. Ch5, then sc into same stitch. \*sc in next stitch, ch1, sc in next stitch. (sc, ch5, sc) in next stitch\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* twice, then sc in next stitch, ch1, sc in next stitch. Join with sl st to beginning sc. (16 sc, 4 ch1, 4 ch5. 40 stitches in total) 3) Sl st into ch5 space. ch3 (counts as one dc), then (4dc, ch2, 5dc) in same space. \*skip next sc, then sc into ch1 space from round two. Skip next sc, then in ch5 space (5dc, ch2, 5dc)\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* twice, then skip next sc, sc into ch1 space, and skip next sc. Join with invisible join to beginning ch3. (40 dc, 4 ch2, 4 sc. 52 stitches in total) 4) This round is worked behind the petals from round three, into stitches from round two. With sage, begin with standing sc in any second sc after ch5 from round two. \*ch4, sc into next sc from round two. Sc in next sc from round two, ch1, sc into next sc from round two (after petal), sc in next.\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final sc. Join with sl st to beginning sc. (4 ch4, 4 ch1, 16 sc. 36 stitches in total) 5) Sl st into ch4 space. ch3 (counts as one dc), then (4dc, ch2, 5dc) in same space. \*Skip next two sc, then sc into ch1 space. Skip next two sc, then in ch4 space (5dc, ch2, 5dc)\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* twice, then skip next two sc, sc into ch1 space, skip next two sc. Join with invisible join to beginning ch3. Break off yarn. (40 dc, 4 ch2, 4 sc. 52 stitchesintotal)
6)This round is worked behind the petals from round five, into stitches from round four. With gold, begin with standing sc in any second sc after ch4 from round four. \*sc into next two sc (after sc from round five). Ch3, sc into first sc after petal, sc into next sc\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final sc. Join with sl st to beginning sc. (16 sc, 4 ch3. 28 stitches in total) 7) Ch1, sc in same stitch. \*ch4, sc in next two stitches. 4sc in ch3 space, sc in next two\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final sc. Join with invisible join to beginning sc. Break off yarn. (32 sc, 4 ch4. 48 stitches in total) 8) With claret, begin with standing dc in any ch4 space. (4dc, ch2, 5dc) in same space. \*Skip next two stitches, then sc into next stitch. Sc into next three stitches, skip next two, and in ch4 space (5dc, ch2, 5dc)\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (5dc, ch2, 5dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (40 dc, 16 sc, 4 ch2. 64 stitches in total)
Pattern Catherine Bligh
9) With saffron, begin with standing sc in any ch2 space. 2sc in same space. \*bpsc in next five stitches, then sc in next two stitches. Ch4, then sc in next two stitches. Bpsc in next five stitches, then 3sc in ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final 3sc. Join with invisible join to beginning sc. Break off yarn. (40 bpsc, 28 sc, 4 ch4. 84 stitches in total)
10) With meadow, begin with standing dc in any ch4 space. (4dc, ch2, 5dc) in same space. \*Skip next three stitches, then sc in next 11 stitches. Skip next three stitches, then in ch4 space (5dc, ch2, 5dc)\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (5dc, ch2, 5dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (40 dc, 44 sc, 4 ch2. 92stitches in total)
11) With stone, begin with standing sc in any ch2. \*bphdc in next three stitches, then bpdc in next two stitches. dc2tog across next two stitches, dc in next stitch, and hdc in next two stitches. 2sc in next stitch, hdc in next two stitches, dc in next stitch, then dc2tog across next two stitches. bpdc in next two stitches, then bphdc in next three stitches. sc in ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final sc. Join with invisible join to beginning sc. Break off yarn. (16 bpdc, 24 bphdc, 8 dc2tog, 8 dc, 16 hdc, 12 sc. 84 stitches in total)
12) With copper, begin with standing dc in any (sc in ch2 space) from round 11. Ch3, dc in same space. \*dc in next four stitches, then dc2tog across next two stitches. Dc in next stitch, then hdc in next two stitches. Sc in next two stitches, hdc in next two stitches, then dc in next stitch. Dc2tog across next two stitches, then dc in next four stitches. (dc, ch3, sc) in next stitch\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (dc, ch3, dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (48 dc, 16 hdc, 8 dc2tog, 8 sc, 4 ch3. 92 stitches in total) 13) With camel, begin with standing dc in any ch3 space. (3dc, ch2, 4dc) in same space. \*skip next two stitches, then sc in next 16 stitches. Skip next two stitches. In ch3 space (4dc, ch2, 4dc)\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (4dc, ch2, 4dc). Join with invisible join to beginning dc. Break off yarn. (23 dc, 64 sc, 4 ch2. 104 stitches in total) 14) With gold, begin with standing sc in any corner ch2 space. 2sc in same space. \*bphdc in next three stitches, then bpdc in next stitch. Dc in next stitch, hdc in next three stitches, then sc in next eight stitches. Hdc in next three stitches, dc in next stitch. Bpdc in next stitch, then bphdc in next three stitches. 2sc in corner ch2 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\*, omitting final 3sc. Join with invisible join to beginning sc. Break off yarn. (44 sc, 24 bphdc, 24 hdc, 8 bpdc, 8 dc. 108 stitches in total)
15) With citron, begin with standing hdc in any 2"d sc of corner 3sc. (ch2, hdc) in same stitch. \*hdc in next 26 stitches, then (hdc, ch2, hdc) in next stitch\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (hdc, ch2, hdc). Join with invisible join to beginning hdc. Break off yarn. (112 hdc, 4 ch2. 120 stitches in total) 16) With sage, begin with standing hdc in any ch2 corner. 2hdc in same space. \*bphdc in next 28 stitches, then 3hdc in next\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final 3hdc. Join with invisible join to beginning hdc. Break off yarn. (124 hdc) 17) With raspberry, begin with standing sc in any 2nd hdc of corner hdc. (ch2, sc) in same stitch. \*sc in next 30 stitches, then (sc, ch2, sc) in next stitch\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* three times, omitting final (sc, ch2, sc). Join with invisible join to beginning sc. Break off yarn. (128 sc, 4 ch2. 136 stitches in total) Sew in all ends.
Page 28 of 33
Construction
All the seams on this blanket are worked in single crochet, fronts facing and worked in back loops only. I love the way this gives each square a defined look, and it's a lot easier to do than sewing squares together! You don't have to join with single crochet - a slip stitch also works well, but make sure you keep it from getting too tight. Or, if you prefer, you can just as easily sew the squares together. All the joins are worked in stone, except for the “internal joins on the small squares, which are worked in copper. Begin with the small squares. With copper, begin with a slip knot on your hook. Put two squares together, one of combination A and one of combination B, front side together, and begin in the stitch after the corner hdc (i.e., leave the corner hdc unworked on the outside edge). Work along the edge of the squares in the back loops only (the ‘outside' loop of the squares when you look down on it).
Leave the outside corner stitch unworked. When you get to the end of the squares, work a sc through back loops of the corner hdc. Then line up the next two squares (one of combination B and one of combination A) and work the next sc through the back loops of the corner hdc of the second squares. Work along the edge of the squares to the end. Leave the corner hdc unworked. Break off yarn. You should now have four squares attached to each other along a 'horizontal'.
Turn the squares and work the ‘vertical' join in the same way. When you get to the centre point (where the corners of all four squares meet), work the two corner stitches of the squares as above, “leaping over' the horizontal join.
You should end up with four larger squares, each composed of four little squares. Don't sew the ends in yet; leave that until later.
It may look a little wonky at this point. Don't worry, it will look fine by the end. Now you'll be joining everything together. At this stage, I like to lay my blankets out and pin them together with safety pins (either regular straight safety pins, or the curved kind that quilters use). You don't need to do this, but I find it helpful to keep it straight in my head which square comes next in my joining. I always work the “horizontal joins first, then the ‘vertical joins. Remember that when you reach a corner join, work the corner stitch of the squares, but don't work the corner stitch at the beginning and end of each end of the join. When you get to a place where the middle of the four small squares meets the middle of a larger square, you need to work a sc into each corner hdc stitch, plus a sc2tog across both corner hdc stitches from the small squares. So you'll work a section of back loop sc as usual, up to the corner hdc from the small square. Then work sc2tog through the two corner hdc stitches from the small squares, but in the same stitch of the larger square. Then work a sc into the second corner hdc from the small squares, and continue to the end of the edge as usual.
When you are working into the sides of the rectangle sections, work one sc for every row of sc, and two sc for every row of dc for nine of the colour stripes. Work one sc for every row of sc and every row of dc for four of the colour stripes (the first and last, and the middle
Demelza Blanket
three). The general rule is to space them evenly so the copper stripe is in the middle of that section of join, and the rectangle section is stretched awkwardly anywhere. There are, obviously, no back loops to work into along the sides of the rectangle sections. Just try to work through the sc and dc stitches, rather than around them. Don't worry if occasionally you find you've made a mistake with stitch counts and need to fudge’ it and work two stitches from one square into one stitch of another. Crochet is extremely forgiving! Work the extra stitch in the corner if you need to, not in the middle of the row. But do double-check that you've started your join in the right place and included or skipped over corner stitches as appropriate. When you've finished all the joins, don't sew in the ends. Leave that until after the border is done; it'll be easier then.
Border
The border is basically a repeating pattern, worked in stone, except the last round, which is worked in copper. 1) With stone, begin with a standing sc in any corner stitch. 2sc in same stitch. Sc in each stitch across the whole edge. When you get to a point where the corners of two squares meet, sc in the first corner stitch or ch2 space, sc2tog across the two corners, then sc in the second corner stitch or ch2 space. The extra stitch makes sure that the border doesn't contract across the space of the sc joins. When you get to where you started, join with sl st. You should end up with 211 sc on each side, plus a corner sc. 2) Ch1, sc into same stitch. 3sc in next stitch (the 2nd sc of corner 3sc). ^Sc in next two stitches, then ch3. \*Sc into next two stitches, then skip next two stitches. Work a shell stitch in next stitch (dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc). Skip next two stitches, sc into next two, then ch3\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* 22 times, then sc in next two and 3sc in corner stitch^^. Repeat from ^ to ^^ three times. Join with sl st to beginning sc. 3) Sl st into next stitch. Ch1, sc into same stitch. ^3sc in next stitch, then sc in next stitch. Skip next two stitches, then work a shell stitch in next ch3. \*Ch2, skip next five stitches, then (sc, ch3, sc) in next ch1 space. Ch2, skip next five stitches, then work a shell stitch in next ch3\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* 22 times. Skip next two stitches, sc in next stitch^\~. Repeat from ^ to ^^ three times. Join with sl st to beginning sc.
4)Sl st into 2nd sc of corner 3sc (two slip stitches). Ch4 (counts as dc + ch1), then (dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc) in same stitch. ^\*Ch2, skip next five stitches, then (sc, ch3, sc) in next ch1 space. Ch2, skip next five stitches, then work a shell stitch in next ch3 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* 22 times, then skip next five stitches, and (sc, ch3, sc) in next ch1 space. Ch2, skip next five stitches, then work a shell stitch in next ch3 space^^. Repeat from ^ to ^^ three times, omitting final shell stitch. Join with sl st to 3rd chain of beginning ch4. 5) Sl st into next ch1 space of the corner shell. Ch4 (counts as sc + ch3), then sc in same space. (Skip next stitch, then (sc, ch3, sc) in next ch1 space) twice. ^Ch2, skip next four stitches, then work a shell stitch in next ch3 space. \*Ch2, skip next five stitches, then work (sc, ch3, sc) in next ch1 space. Ch2, skip next five stitches, then work a shell stitch in next ch3 space\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* 23 times. Then ch2, skip next four stitches. (sc, ch3, sc) in ch1 space. (Skip next stitch, then sc, ch3, sc) in next ch1 space) twice. Repeat from ^ to ^^ three times, omitting final three (sc, ch3, sc). Join with invisible join to 1st chain of beginning ch4. Break off yarn.
6) With copper, begin with standing sc in any second (sc, ch3, sc) of any corner. (ch3, sc) in same space. ^Ch1, skip next two stitches, then (sc, ch2, sc) in next ch3 space. Skip next stitch, then \*2sc in ch2 space. Skip next stitch, then sc in next five stitches. Skip next stitch, then 2sc in ch2 space. Skip next stitch, then in ch3 space (sc, ch2, sc). Skip next two stitches\*\*. Repeat from \* to \*\* 23 times, omitting final (sc, ch2, sc). Skip next stitch, then in ch3 space (sc, ch2, sc). Ch1, skip next two stitches, then (sc, ch3, sc) in ch3 space^^. Repeat from ^ to ^^ three times, omitting final (sc, ch3, sc). Join with invisible join to beginning sc. Break off yarn.
Sew in all ends.
