MONKEY D. LUFFY
by Clare Heesh https://www.etsy.com/shop/53Stitches
MATERIALS
· Black yarn · Beige yarn · Red yarn · Blue yarn · White yarn · Yellow yarn ·Yellow felt · 2x 7.5mm safety eyes · Polyester filling · Black thread · 3.0mm crochet hook · Fabric Glue
The yarn I use is an 8ply Australian brand with a gauge of 22 stitches x 30 rows. I believe this is equivalent to Double Knit (DK) with the American/UK weighting System.
TECHNIQUESANDABBREVIATIONS
ch = chain st = stitch/stitches sl st = slip stitch SC = Single Crochet MR = Magic Ring inc = Increase, sc 2 in the same stitch dec = Invisible Decrease hdc = half double crochet dc = double crochet 4sc popcorn = Popcorn Stitch with 4 sc worked into it. BLO = Back Loop Only [ sc, inc ]x 2 = repeat 2 times => sc, inc, sc, inc alternative costume suggestions (e.g. New 52 version) There should be a file available for download with this one that details all of the stitches that I use and other references. If not, it is available for download here: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/ u/63637986/Techniques.pdf My patterns are worked in continuous rounds, I recommend using a marker to mark the start of each round. I like to use a bobby pin, since it's easily removed and doesn't fall out or leave fluff as much as a stray piece of yarn does. To finish off each body part, I do a slip stitch for the last stitch of the round, then chain 1 and pull the tail into the next stitch to neaten it off.
HAIR CAP Black
1. (in Black) MR 6 (6) 2. [ inc ]x 6 (12) 3. [ inc, Sc ]x 6 (18) 4. sc, inc, [ sc 2, inc Jx 5, sc (24) 5. [inc, Sc 3 ]x 6 (30) 6. sc 2, inc, [ sc 4, inc ]x 5, sc 2 (36) 7-12. SC 36 (36) Leave tail for sewing, finish off.
HEAD Beige
1. (in Beige) MR 6 (6) 2. [inc ]x 6 (12) 3. [inc, sc ]x 6 (18) 4. sc, inc, [ sc 2, inc Jx 5, sc (24) 5. [inc, sc 3 ]x 6 (30) 6. sc 2, inc, [ sc 4, inc ]x 5, sc 2 (36) 7-12. SC 36 (36) 13. sc 2, dec, [ sc 4, dec ]x 5, sc 2 (30) 14. [ dec, sc 3 ]x 6 (24) 15. sc, dec, [ sc 2, dec ]x 5, sc (18)
Insert safety eyes between rows 9 and 10, with approximately 4 stitches between them. Leave tail for sewing, finish off and stuff firmly. Stitch on the mouth using a few threads of black embroidery or cross-stitch thread. Yarn works as well but leaves the mouth a bit thick.
ARM (make 2) Beige
1. (in Beige) MR 6 (6) 2. [inc, sc 2 ]x 2 (8) 3-4. sc 8 (8) 5. 4sc popcorn, sc 7 (8) 6-15. sC 8 (8) Leave tail for sewing, finish off. They don't need any stuffing because they're so thin.
The popcorn stitch in the arm is the thumb, if you prefer straight arms, simply replace the popcorn stitch with a sc.
LEG (make 2) Black, Blue & White
1. (in Black) MR 6 (6) 2. [inc ]x6 (12) 3. [inc, sc ]x 6 (18) 4. BLO sc 18 (18) 5. SC 18 (18) 6-7. (in Beige) sc 18 (18) 8. sc 3, dec 6, sc 3 (12) 9. SC 12 (12) \*sew on the sandal, see below\* 10-11. SC 12 (12) 12. (in White) sC 12 (12) 13. SC 12 (12) 14. (in Blue) sc 12 (12) 15-19. SC 12 (12)
Crocheting one round in the back loop only makes it easier to give the foot shape, as it's easier to make the base flat. Finish off, no tail is necessary.
Create the sandal by taking a stray piece of black yarn and threading it through the foot. There should be 4 “straps". 1. From the bottom of the shoe (where the black and beige yarn meet), to 1 row directly above. 2. From the left side of the sandal, back into this same stitch. When doing this step, to help keep the strap in place, I also like to come out of a stitch and go back into the same stitch. This way, you can't see it, but there is something to keep it in place. 3. From the right side of the sandal to the same stitch. Secure as you did on the other strap. 4. And from the left outer strap stitch back into the right outer strap stitch.
BODY Blue & Beige
Take the two legs and position them so that the feet are pointing correctly, I like to place two bobby pins in the stitches where the legs will join to make it easier to manage. Make a slip knot, insert hook in the stitch you are going to begin the round with, make sure to begin the round at the back of the doll so that the colour changes are kept out of sight. Put the slip knot on the hook, and pull it through.The next stitch will be a regular single crochet and will begin the round.
Join with two bobby pins, this is where you'll go from one leg to the other.
Make one sc in the right leg in the stitch the bobby pin marks. The next sc will be on the left leg, in the stitch the bobby pin marks
Do the same when you reach the opposite bobby pin. This is what it should look like after the first round. 1-3. (in Blue) sC 24 (24) 4. (in Beige) sc 24 (24) 5-7. SC 24 (24) (at this point stuff the legs) 8. sc 3, dec, [sc 6, dec]x 2, sc 3 (21) 9. [ dec, sc 5 ]x 3 (18) 10. sc 2, dec [ sc 4, dec ]x 2, sc 2 (15) 11. [ dec, sc 3 ]x 3 (12) 12. FLO sC 12 (12) 13. [sc, inc ]x 6 (18)
SHIRT Red
1. (in Red) ch 31 (turn, next sc is in 2nd ch from hook) 2-6. sc 30, ch 1, turn (30) 7. dec 3, ch 8, skip 4, sc 1, dec 4, sc 1, ch 8, skip 4, dec 3, ch 1, turn () 8. sc until end of row ()
Before beginning the decreases stuff the legs. Make sure you don't stuff them so firmly that he can't balance anymore. Cut small circles out of yellow felt and glue them onto one side of the shirt as buttons.
For the last few rows of the shirt and hat the number of stitches aren't important, which is why they're missing. The shirt has decreases in it to give it a curve and make it fit the doll better. If you find that the arm holes aren't big enough, increase the number of ch's. Since the dolls change slightly each time they're made, on row 6-7 it is easier to check that the shirt is matching the doll as you go, so you can make smaller changes instead of having to remake the entire shirt or unravel a lot of your work. :)
HAT Red and Yellow
1. (in Yellow) MR 6 (6) 2. [inc ]x 6 (12) 3. [inc, sc ]x 6 (18) 4. sc, inc, [ sc 2, inc Jx 5, sc (24) 5. [inc, sc 3 ]x 6 (30) 6. sc 2, inc, [ sc 4, inc ]x 5, sc 2 (36) 7. [inc, sc 11 ]x 3 (39) 8-11. SC 39 (39) 12-13. (in Red) sC 39 (39) 14. (in Yellow) FLO sc 39 (39) 15. sl st, [inc, sc ] x(repeat until end of round) () 16. [ inc, sc 3 Jx(repeat until end of round) () 17. BLO sc around ()
Stitching the last round in the BLO stops the hat brim from curving upwards so much.
ATTACHINGHAIRTOHEAD
I learnt this technique from Owlishly, so I don't want to take any credit for it, or imagine that I can explain it better then her. Here's the link to the tutorial: http://owlishly.typepad.com/owlishly/ 2007/08/amigurumi-hair.html Use the tail of the wig cap to attach it to the head. It only needs to attach at a few places so no need to be overly thorough.
I usually google a picture of Luffy and keep it up so that I can look at the hair as I work, but he has a slight part, and usually a bit of his fringe falls on his face. Here are a couple of different dolls I've made and the way I usually try to do his hair.
I use pins to get a rough idea of the placement of the arms before I sew them on. The arm is pressed flat against the body and stitched there. Truthfully you can be messy with the arms as the shirt will cover them anyway.
The last thing left to do is attach the head. Both the base of the head and the top of the body had 18 stitches in their last rounds. That means that each stitch in the head should match a stitch in the body, which gives it a nice neat finish. Finished!
Hope you had fun and if there are any questions or problems don't hesitate to contact me through my etsy shop, http://www.etsy.com/shop/53stitches/ or my tumblr http://53stitches.tumblr.com If you have any suggestions or designs you'd like to see in the future, drop a suggestion in my ask and I'll see what I can do! Please don't copy or resell this pattern or the dolls made from it, but feel free to make as many as you want and distribute them amongst friends or sell them at markets. Thank-you! :)
