Rugby Knee-High Stockings Pattern: Detailed Instructions for Knitting Warm and Stylish Socks

",Rugby" knee-high stockings in 2/2 rib

Size: (S: EU 39) [M: EU 40-43] {L: EU 44-47}Yarn: 8ply sock yarn or similar DK Yarn used: Lana Grossa Superlana (ca 2 balls/100g per stocking; Size needle: 3 and 3,5 mm (US size 2.5 and 4), circulars or dpn also needed: stitch markers tapestry needle to adapt size: cast on more or less stitches knit longer /shorter foot add/detract increase rounds (total stitch number must be divisible by 4) The Rugby knee-high sking socks were named after their bold colorblock stripesrather than the sport. They'llkep your toes (and ankles, and calfs) warm and toasty no matter the sport—even if you prefer sitting on the sofa watching others do the actual moving.. The socks (or rather stockings) are knit toe up in order to make the most of the yarn. I used circular needles in the magicloop technique, but feel free to use two circs or dpns if you feel more comfortable. The pattern assumes you have knit a sock before, just no knee-highs. For questions about actual techniques please refer to a search engine or help forum or a knitter of your liking. A simple 2/2 rib pattern with a short-row heel and calf-shaping,the pattern is far from ,exotic" or even difficult, but I wanted to share my experience in ,unventing" these. Ribbed knee-highs seem ,too simple" to have a pattern in Ravelry when / looked for it..and I know increasing in ribbing can seem daunting. I chose to increase to both sides from a central rib at the back of the calf by inserting alternately new purl and knit ribs. Sizes are given in (S) [M] {L} with tips for further adaptation on last page. For the colorblock stripes you need two balls of each color. Note that main color (MC) needs slightly more yarn than contrast color (CC)—if you want identical stockings rather than color-reversed (as shown), you better have one ball of MC in reserve. Of course, feel free to make up your own stripes or include more (or less) colors...)

Note:

The pattern is free to download, knit and share. You can knit as many socks as you like and keep them or give them away to family, friends, strangers or charity. You are not allowed to sell the pattern or the finished socks unless you want to donate the money received to charity.

Note also:

I am not a native speaker of English. If you find my wording strange or my grammar incorrect, please contact me. Likewise, if you find a mistake in the pattern. I'll then try to improve the pattern. Thank you!

Abbreviations/required techniques:

MC main color dpn double pointed needles RS right side incr. increase CC contrast color circs circular needles Ws wrong side decr. decrease kknit kfb make one by knitting first into the front and then into the back of loop Ppurl kbpf make one knitting in the back and then purling into front of same loop m1k make 1 knit st pm place marker

Note:

This pattern is written for magic loop or two circular needles, i.e. sole and upper foot stitches are each on only one needle. If working with dpn adjust accordingly, working sole and upper foot on two needles each. Increase rounds: (k1, m1, knit to last stitch on needle, m1, k1) x2 = +4 sts

Round toe:

with MC, using your favorite toe-up method cast on 2x8 [10] {12}(= (16) [20] [24} sts) R1,R2,R3: increase rounds (=(20,24,28)[24,28,32]{28, 32,36} sts) R4: knit all R5:increaseround(=(32) [36] {40}sts) R6, R7: knit all R8:increase round (= (36) [40] {44} sts) R9, R10, R11: knit all R 12: increase round (= (40) [44] {48} sts) R13, R14,R15, R16: knit all R17: increase round (= (44) [48] {52} sts) R18: knit all

Foot:

Change color to begin stripes. R1: knit all stitches. R 2-6: for upper foot (= (22) [24] {26} sts) begin and end with a k: Sizes S and L:(k2,\*p2, k2 \*to end of needle); Size M: [k1, p2, \*k2, p2 \*, k1] = begin and end with knit stitch for sole (= (22) [24] {26} sts): knit all sts on needle Stripes are six rounds wide. Always knit all sts in each first row of new color.

Heel:

Start after 9 1/2 6-row stripes (57 rounds with 44 [48]{52} sts) or according to required foot length (see table on last page) but in any case in the middle of a stripe. Heel will share color of that stripe. Knit short-row heel (preferably in MC), with two complete rounds between first and second part of short rows. Finish with one more complete round in same color to complete stripe.

Leg:

Continue k2-p2 rib on all needles (= (11) [12]{13} knit “ribs" and (11) [12] {13} purled “valleys") Knit straight for 6 stripes (36 rounds with (44) [48]{52} sts) or as required by your measurements Place markers to both sides of back leg's central knit rib.

Calf shaping (former “sole needle" only):

Increase two stitches in center of back leg in row 1 and 4 of each stripe for next 4 stripes (+16 sts over 24 rounds = (60 sts/15 ribs) [64 sts/ 16 ribs] {68 sts/ 17 ribs). Increases are arranged by first broadening the back leg's central rib from 2 to 4 k sts (1st incr.), then inserting 2 p sts in the center of now 4 k-sts-wide rib (2nd incr.). Center of back leg is now formed by a 2 p valley. 3rd incr. broadens valley to 4 p sts, and 4th incr. inserts two k sts in center of valley, thus creating a new rib, etc. If your leg shape is different, simply add or leave out increases. Next, increase one stitch in each purl valley of back leg needle: over next two stripes, insert two purl sts in the valleys to both sides of central rib, then in valleys next to those, until all valleys are 3 p sts wide (+10 sts over 12 rounds = (70 sts/15 ribs) [74 sts/16 ribs] {78 sts/17 ribs]).

Leg (continued):

Knit straight for 5 stripes (30 rounds with (70) [74] [78] sts) or according to your measurements. Decrease over next two stripes in every other row by reducing 3p valleys again to 2p valleys. Reduce sts from outside in, reversing the last increases (-10 sts over 12 rounds = (60 sts/15 ribs) [64 sts/ 16 ribs] [68 sts/ 17 ribs]).

Cuff:

with next color change (MC) change to smaller needle (3mm/ US 2.5), establishing the kl-p1 ribbing. Continue ribbing for 12 rounds. If desired, carry sewing elastic for better fit (optional). Finish with JSSBO. For a perfect fit, measure your foot and leg and adapt sizing using the chart and table on last page. If possible, try on several times during knitting. Rugby skiing stockings - one glance quick table (size S)

\*free ravelry download\* "Rugby” knee high sking stockings. Version updated July 15, 2013

Some available online tutorials for techniques mentioned:

Several toe-up cast-ons, including figure-8-cast-on: http://knitty.com/ISSUEwinter02/FEATtiptoptoes.html http://knitty.com/SSUEspring06/FEATmagiccaston.html

no-purl short-row heel:

http://www.nadelspiel.com/2009/06/28/luckenlose-bumerangferse-a-la-elizzza-teil-1/ (the video is in German, but you can see how it's done anyway. Also, the vlogger answers questions in English). Basically, it's all about doing short rows knitting backwards...

Jeny's surprisingly stretchy bind-off (JSSBO):

http://knitty.com/ISSUEfal109/FEATjssbo.php For all of these techniques, there are lots of videos and written tutorials out there-keep looking or asking until you find one that works for you. good fit, you should compare and adapt the pattern to your own measurements—this is not difficult. of all: swatch your gauge. Second: measure your foot and leg, like so: http://appleleeffarm.com/PDFs/cstmsck1.p 1: width of ankle (slimmest point) 2. width of calf (widest point) measure distance between 1 and 2 3. length of complete foot (see table) 4. length of leg (from end of heel to cuff) Feel free to include more measuring points to map your leg more precisely as needed

For adapting foot length, remember excluding toe and heel in length (each ca 5 cm/2 inch)