Moonlight Dancer Feminine Flared Cardigan Knitting Pattern by Elise Dupont

Pattern information

Moonlight Dancer is a feminine flared cardigan, with close fit at the bust. Radius increases in reverse stockinette stitch give a loose and drapy look around the hips. Completely worked in the round, the neckband is worked at the same time as the body. Some short rows are done at the middle of the neckband, to closely follow the back of the neck. For the sleeves, you have two possible versions: long buttoned cuffs or short and gradient cuffs. The pattern is available for the sizes (30-32-34-36) (38-40-42-44) (46-48-50-52) inches.

Gauge

24 sts and 32 rows = 10 cm / 4" in stockinette stitch washed and blocked, with bigger needles.

Materials

·Yarn: sport weight

(1254-1327-1388-1485) (1558-1631-1704-1777) (1850-1923-1996-2069) yards / (1147-1213-1269-1358) (1425-1491-1558-1625) (1692-1758-1825-1892) meters The sample is shown in Squoosh Fiberarts Rapture in Fawn and Quince and Co. Tern in Driftwood for the brown version, and Sweet Fiber Yarns Avery Sport in Black Currant and Pigeonroof Studios Silken Sock (Plum Ombre mini-skein set) for the purple version. For the long and buttoned cuffs you will need around (132-140-150-155) (171-181-186-196) (211-216-226-236) yards / (121-128-137-142) (156-166-170-179) (193-198-207-216) meters For the short and gradient cuffs you will need around (87-92-99-102) (112-119-122-129) (139-142-149-156) yards / (80-84-91-93) (102-109-112-118) (127-130-136-143) meters

Needles:

3.5mm / US 4 circular needles for the cardigan, and 3mm / US 2% for the cuffs and garter section at the end of the cardigan. Please adjust the needles if needed to obtain gauge!

Other:

12 markers, tapestry needle, waste yarn. 12 buttons with a diameter about 12mm / 0.5" for the buttoned cuff version.

Skill level

About the yarn

The yarn used in this pattern contains some silk. This is what gives the beautifull drape to the cardigan. After the first wash, this kind of yarn tend to grow. This has been taken into account in the patern. If you decide to use a yarn without silk, think about working some extra rows at the sleeves and the body.

About the pattern layout

If you see a blue line like this one, this means that these instructions are going to be worked more than once. If you see a \*text in blue\* it means that you will have to work this part of the sentence more than once.

Blueprint

The pattern is shown on the model with 8cm / 3 1/8" positive ease at the bust and zeroease atthe arms. To choose your size, measure your bust at the widest point.

Glossary (alphabetical order)

bef: before cO: cast on K: knit K2tog: K2 sts together K1TBL: K1 trough the back loop. KFB: Knit front back M1L: make one left M1R: make one right M1LP: make one left purlwise (see techniques below) M1RP: make one right purlwise (see techniques below) P: purl P1TBL: P1 through the back loop. pm: place marker RS: right side slip 1 st wyif: slip one stitch with yarn in front (purlwise) slip 1 st wyib: slip one stitch with yarn in back (knitwise) sm: slip marker st(s): stitch(es) SSK: slip 1 st, slip 1 st, insert the left hand needle into the front of the 2 sts and K them together TW: turn work Ws: wrong side YO: yarn over

Techniques

Back neck crochet secure: http://elisedupont. fr/en/crochet-secure/ Bind off loosely all sts: my favorite technique is very easy and has a beautiful result! \*K2tog through the back loop, slip st back to left needle\*. Repeat \* to \* until 1 st remains. Break yarn, and pass it through the last st. Double increase: KFB into the strand of yarn which runs between the stitch just worked and the next stitch on the left-hand needle http://elisedupont.fr/en/double-increase/ German short rows: http://elisedupont.fr/en/ german-short-rows/ M1L: http://elisedupont.fr/en/make-one-leftm1l/ M1R: http://elisedupont.fr/en/make-one right-m1r/ M1LP: http://elisedupont.fr/en/make-one left-pul-m1lp/ M1RP: http://elisedupont.fr/en/make-one right-purl-m1rp/ Provisional cast on: http://elisedupont.fr/en/ provisional-cast-on/

Instructions

1 // NECKBAND & SHORT ROWS

Make a provisional cast on of 20 sts. Work with the bigger needles. · Row 1 (RS): slip 1 st wyib, K1TBL, K to end. · Row 2 (WS): slip 1 st wyif, K to 2 sts bef the end, P1TBL, P1. Repeat the last two rows for a total of (24-26-26-26) (31-33-37-37) (40-40-40-40) times. Then begin short rows: · Row 3 (RS): slip 1 st wyib, K1TBL, K12 , TW. · Row 4 (WS): make a German short row (slip st), K to 2 sts bef the end, P1TBL, P1. · Row 5 (RS): slip 1 st wyib, K1TBL, K10 , TW. · Row 6 (WS): make a German short row (slip st), K to 2 sts bef the end, P1TBL, P1. · Row 7 (RS): slip 1 st wyib, K1TBL, K8, TW. · Row 8 (WS): make a German short row (slip st), K to 2 sts bef the end, P1TBL, P1. · Row 9 (RS): slip 1 st wyib, K1TBL, K to end. · Row 10 (WS): slip 1 st wyif, K to 2 sts bef the end, P1TBL, P1. · Row 11 (RS): as for Row 9. · Row 12 (Ws): as for Row 10. · Row 13 (RS): slip 1 st wyib, K1TBL, K8, TW. · Row 14 (WS): make a German short row (slip st), K to 2 sts bef the end, P1TBL, P1. · Row 15 (RS): slip 1 st wyib, K1TBL, K10 , TW. · Row 16 (WS): make a German short row (slip st), K to 2 sts bef the end, P1TBL, P1. · Row 17 (RS): slip 1 st wyib, K1TBL, K12, TW. · Row 18 (WS): make a German short row (slip st), K to 2 sts bef the end, P1TBL, P1. Repeat Rows 1 and 2 again for a total of (24-26-26-26) (31-33-37-37) (40-40-40-40) times. You have (50-54-54-54) (64-68-76-76) (82-82-82-82) garter ridges on the inner and (56-60-60-60) (70-74-82- 82) (88-88-88-88) garter ridges on the outer. Repeat Row 1 to end on a RS row. Because of the short rows, the neckband is curved. The longer edge is the outer side. With front facing, turn the work 90° to pickup the sts along the left side of the neckband. You already have 20 sts on your needle. PM, pickup (2-2-2-2) (2-2-2-2) (2-2-2-2) sts (front sts), pm, pickup (5-6-6-6) (10-12-14-14) (16-16-16-16) sts (sleeve sts), pm, pickup (36-38-38-38) (40-40-44-44) (46-46-46-46) sts (back sts), pm, pickup (5-6-6-6) (10- 12-14-14) (16-16-16-16) sts (sleeve sts), pm, pickup (2-2-2-2) (2-2-2-2) (2-2-2-2) sts (front sts), pm, break yarn and add the 20 sts from the provisional cast on to the needle (do not work them, just slip them). You have (90-94-94-94) (104-108-116-116) (122-122-122-122) sts. ;): slip 1 st wyif, P1TBL, K to m, sm, P to last m, sm, K to 2 sts bef the end, P1TBL, F

2 // RAGLAN & FRONT INCREASES

Raglan increases are done every other row (26-27-29-30) (31-32-32-33) (34-35-37-38) times, then (2-2-0-0) (0-0-4-4) (4-4-2-2) rows are worked after the raglans. At the same time, front increases are worked but at a different pace, depending on the size you have chosen:

Raglan + Front increases:

Row 1 (RS) : slip 1 st wyib, K1TBL, Kto m, sm, K1, M1L, \* K to 1 st bef m, M1R, K1, sm, K1, M1L \* (repeat from \* to \* 4 times total), K to 1 st bef m, M1R, K1, sm, K to 2 sts bef the end, K1TBL, K1. Row 2 (and all WS rows) : slip 1 st wyif, P1TBL, Kto m, sm, \* P to m, sm \* (repeat from \* to \* 5 times total), K to 2 sts bef the end, P1TBL, P1.

Raglan increases only:

·Row 1 (RS) : slip 1 st wyib, K1TBL, Kto m, sm, \* Kto 1 st bef m, M1R, K1, sm, K1, M1L \* (repeat from \* to \* 4 times total), K to m, sm, K to 2 sts bef the end, K1TBL, K1. Row 2 (and all WS rows) : slip 1 st wyif, P1TBL, Kto m, sm, \* P to m, sm \* (repeat from \* to \* 5 times total), K to 2 sts bef the end, P1TBL, P1.

Front increases only:

Row 1 (RS) : slip 1 st wyib, K1TBL, K to m, sm, K1, M1L, \* K to m, sm \* (repeat from \* to \* 4 times total), K to 1 st bef m, M1R, K1, sm, K to 2 sts bef the end, K1TBL, K1. Row 2 (and all WS rows) : slip 1 st wyif, P1TBL, Kto m, sm, \* P to m, sm \* (repeat from \* to \* 5 times total), K to 2 sts bef the end, P1TBL, P1.

"Straight" (no increase at all):

Row 1 (RS) : slip 1 st wyib, K1TBL, Kto m, sm, \* K to m, sm \* (repeat from \* to \* 5 times total), K to 2 sts bef the end, K1TBL, K1. Row 2 (and all WS rows) : slip 1 st wyif, P1TBL, Kto m, sm, \* P to m, sm \* (repeat from \* to \* 5 times total), K to 2 sts bef the end, P1TBL, P1. To help you follow the different increases , follow the chart on next page. You now have (308-326-344-364) (388-408-424-436) (452-468-488-500) sts: (53-57-60-67) (71-76-80-83) (85-90-94-97) sts for each front including neckband sts (57-60-64-66) (72-76-78-80) (84-86-90-92) sts for each sleeve (88-92-96-98) (102-104-108-110) (114-116-120-122) sts for the back Key Rag + Front Raglan + Front increases Rag Raglan only Front Front increases only Straight Straight (no increase at all) Separate sleeves from the body and continue the front increases: ·Row 1 (RS) : slip 1 st wyib, K1TBL, Kto m, sm, K1, M1L, Kto m, remove m, put (57-60-64-66) (72-76-78-80) (84-86-90-92) sleeves sts on hold on waste yarn, remove m, C0 (6-6-6-6) (6-6-6-8) (10-10-10-12) sts, Kto m, remove m, put (57-60-64-66) (72-76-78-80) (84-86-90-92) sleeves sts on hold on waste yarn, remove m, CO (6-6-6-6) (6-6-6-8) (10-10-10-12) sts, Kto 1 st bef m, M1R, K1, sm, K to 2 sts bef the end, K1TBL, K1. ●Row 2 (WS) : slip 1 st wyif, P1TBL, K to m, sm, P to m, sm, K to 2 sts bef the end, P1TBL, P1. ·Row 3 (RS) : slip 1 st wyib, K1TBL, Kto m, sm, K to m, sm, K to 2 sts bef the end, K1TBL, K1. ·Row 4 (ws) : as for Row 2. You have (206-218-228-244) (256-268-280-292) (304-316-328-340) sts. Then continue front increases every 4th row: · Row 1 (RS) : slip 1 st wyib, K1TBL, K to m, sm, K1, M1L, Kto 1 st bef m, M1R, K1, sm, K to 2 sts bef the end, K1TBL, K1. · Row 2 (WS) : slip 1 st wyif, P1TBL, Kto m, sm, P to m, sm, K to 2 sts bef the end, P1TBL, P1. ·Row 3 (RS) : slip 1 st wyib, K1TBL, K to m, sm, K to m, sm, Kto 2 sts bef the end, K1TBL, K1. ·Row 4 (Ws) : as for Row 2. Repeat last 4 rows 3 times total. You now have (214-226-236-252) (264-276-288-300) (312-324-336-348) sts.

3 // RADIUS INCREASES

Setup row: slip 1 st wyib, K1TBL, Kto m, sm, K(31-31-30-30) (30-30-30-30) (30-30-30-30) sts, pm, M1LP, pm, \* K (28-31-34-38) (41-44-47-50) (53-56-59-62), pm, M1LP, pm, \* (repeat from \* to \* 4 times total), K to m, sm, K to 2 sts bef the end, K1TBL, K1. Work next 7 rows as they are: Wrong side row: slip 1 st wyif, P1TBL, K to m, sm, \* P to m, sm, K to m, sm \* (repeat from \* to \* 5 times total), P to m, sm, K to 2 sts bef the end, P1TBL, P1. Right side row: slip 1 st wyib, K1TBL, K to m, sm, \* K to m, sm, P to m, sm \* (repeat from \* to \* 5 times total), K to m, sm, K to 2 sts bef the end, K1TBL, K1. Be sure to end with a WS row. At the 8th row, begin radius increases: (RS) : slip 1 st wyib, K1TBL, Kto m, sm, \* Kto m, sm, M1LP, P to m, M1RP, sm \* (repeat from \* to \* 5 times total), K to m, sm, K to 2 sts bef the end, K1TBl, K1. Then again, work the next 7 rows as they are. Repeat radius increases every 8th row for a total of 11 times total (or more if you want a longer cardigan and have extra yarn). You now have (329-341-351-367) (379-391-403-415) (427-439-451-463) sts. Switch to smaller needles to work the garter section. You can remove all markers. With 3mm / Us 2% needles (or needles 0.5mm smaller than the needles you used for your project), work 36 rows in garter stitch : Row 1 (RS) : slip 1 st wyib, K1TBL, K to 2 sts bef the end, K1TBL, K1. Row 2 (WS) : slip 1 st wyif, P1TBL, K to 2 sts bef the end, P1TBL, P1. last 2 rows for a total of 18 times. Bind off loosely all sts (see "techniques" page 4

4 // SLEEVES

Underarm sts advice

Like all top-down pullovers, if you just pick-up the underarm sts, you will probably have some "holes" under the arm. I recommend that you pick-up 4 more sts (2 at each underarm side), and that for the next 2 rounds, you decrease them quickly this way: K2, K2tog, K to 4 sts bef the end, SSK, K2 Many knitters work tighter when they work in the round (compared to flat). Watch your gauge: if this is your case, think about changing for a bigger needle when you work in the round, to keep the same gauge! With bigger circular needles, pick up and K armhole sts, beginning at center of underarm: Pick up (3-3-3-3) (3-3-3-4) (5-5-5-6) sts. underarm (this number does not include the extra sts picked to avoid gaps.), K(57-60-64-66) (72-76-78-80) (84-86-90-92) sleeves sts, pick up (3-3-3-3) (3-3-3-4) (5-5-5-6) sts underarm and pm. You have (63-66-70-72) (78-82-84-88) (94-96-100-104) sts. Work 20 rounds in stockinette stitch.

Decreases:

Decrease round: K2, K2tog, K to 4 sts bef the end, SSK, K2. Work 7 rounds in stockinette stitch. Repeat decrease round. Work 7 rounds in stockinette stitch. Repeat decrease round. Then repeat decrease round every 16th round, 2 times.

Short gradient cuffs:

· Work 11 rounds in stockinette stitch. ·Repeat decrease round. Repeat decrease round every 12 th round, 3 times total. Work 1 row in stockinette stitch. On my sample, I did 10 rounds of each 6 gradient colors. Switch to the small needles to work the garter stitch cuff. Work 60 rounds in garter stitch (one round K all sts, on round P all sts), and at the same time continue the decreases every12throw. Bind off loosely all sts (see “"techniques" page 4).

Long buttoned cuffs:

·Work 15 rounds in stockinette stitch. · Repeat decrease round. Then work 5 rounds in stockinette stitch. You have (51-54-58-60) (66-70-72-76) (82-84-88-92) sts. Switch to the small needles to work the garter stitch cuff. From now, you will not work in the round anymore!

Right cuff:

hdc = half double crochet (#) = how many stitches at the end of row Work 3 rows in garter stitch. · Decrease & buttonhole: K to 4 sts bef m, SSK, K2, sm, K2, K2tog, K to 3 sts bef the end, YO, K2tog, K1, TW. ·Work 11 rows in garter stitch. Repeat the last 12 rows 5 times total. Repeat the decrease and buttonhole once more. Work 3 rows in garter stitch. Bind off loosely all sts (see "techniques" page 4).

Left cuff:

K (26-27-29-30) (33-35-36-38) (41-42-44-46), double increase (see techniques). Turn work. K to m, sm, K (25-27-29-30) (33-35-36-38) (41-42-44-46), C0 4 sts, turn work. Work 2 rows in garter stitch. Decrease & buttonhole: K1, K2tog, YO, K to 4 sts bef m, SSK, K2, sm, K2, K2tog, K to end, turn work Work 11 rows in garter stitch. Repeat the last 12 rows 5 times total. Work one last time the decrease & buttonhole row. Work 3 rows in garter stitch. Bind off loosely all sts (see "techniques" page 4).

5 // FINISHING

One problem with knitting seamless is that the garment might distort and be out of shape with the weight, and no seam to keep the shoulders "tight". This is even more important when using a yarn with silk. This is why I strongly recommend to make a crochet chain (see "techniques") on the WS at the shoulders (preferably with a yarn without silk). This will secure the shoulders of your cardigan. Weave in ends, wash and block. Blocking is important in this case to flatten the reverse stockinette radius.

I/ THANK YOU

To meya , Galexia , claudiapetra , relaxtricot , Lyly67000, lydely AND mariefra for their generous help with the test knit, and to Clare for the tech editing. To my man, and his unconditional support from the start. And thank you to all the knitters who have knit my patterns and encouraged me in every possible way.

I/ A proBlem?

If something in the instructions is puzzling you or if you have a problem, check this page: http://elisedupont.fr/en/support-errors/ For any questions you can email me at: elise.dupont@gmail.com.

I/ COPYRIGHT

The entire content of this pattern and the knitted designs to which it refers are subject to copyright. In purchasing this pattern you agree to print and use this pattern only for your personal, non-commercial use. You may not distribute or sell electronic or paper copies of this pattern, nor may you sell any items produced using the directions in this pattern. @ Elise Dupont 2015.