Materials
Yarn -
1 skein of Vintage Purls Sock (75% Superwash Merino Wool; 384 metres (420 yards)/100 g) Sample used 361 metres (394 yards)/ 94 g -or1 skein of Vintage Purls Lace (100% Merino Wool; 909 metres (994 yards)/100g) Needles - 4.0 mm (US size 6) - use for either sock weight or lace weight version This crescent shaped shawlette can be knitted in sock weight (fingering) yarn or in lace weight. The pattern can easily be amended to include a garter stitch or stocking stitch edge at the top, or you can dive right in with the lace. The interconnecting leaves generate recurring waves reminiscent of the ocean, and shiny beads dot the border like light shimmering on the sea. Your sea is not limited to the ocean but may be a sea of prairie grass or maize, rippling in the wind.
Beads - 152 size 6/0 seed beads or 5/0 triangle seed beads (add 6 beads per extra pattern repeat) Gauge - 18 sts and 36 rows over 10 cm (4") of garter stitch blocked (Note: Exact gauge is not crucial but will affect yardage required.) Finished Size - 182 cm (72") wide x 40 cm (16") deep at centre back.
Abbreviations
cdd - centred double decrease - slip two stitches together knitwise, knit 1 and psso incr3 - makes three stitches from one - knit, YO, knit into one stitch k-knit k1 tbl - knit 1 through the back loop of the stitch k2tog - knit two stitches together k3tog - knit 3 stitches together p-purl p1 tbl - purl 1 through the back loop of the stitch p2tog - purl two stitches together p2tog tbl - purl two stitches together through the back loops of the stitches psso - pass slipped stitch over sk2p - slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit two together and pass slipped stitch over. 1lPage @Sue Schreuder 2013 ssk - slip, slip another, knit slipped stitches together through back loop yo-yarnover
Instructions
Sock weight version:
GarterTabStart Garter Stitch Top (optional) Lace Body (Chart A) x 2 (or x 3 if you skip garter top) Lace Border (Chart B) Bind Off Block
Lace weight version:
Garter Tab Start Lace Body (Chart A) x 4 Lace Border (Chart B) Bind Off Block
Garter Tab Start
Cast on 2 stitches. Knit four rows. k2, yo, then rotate work % turn clockwise. (Pick up and k1, yo) x 2, then rotate another % turn clockwise. Pick up and knit 2 from cast on edge. (9 stitches) Resume working back and forth. k2, inc3, (k1, yo) x 3, inc3, k2 (16 stitches) k2, yo, p12, yo, k2 (18 stitches)
Garter Stitch Top
If you prefer, you can use stocking stitch for the top instead of garter stitch. To do so, purl all stitches in between the yo's in Row 2. Row 1: (right side) k1 tbl, k1, incr3, knit to last three stitches, incr3, k1, k1 tbl Row 2: (wrong side) k1 tbl, k1, yo, knit to last 2 stitches, yo, k1, k1 tbl Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until you have 138 stitches. For a larger Garter Stitch Top, continue working to desired width, making sure the ending stitch count is a multiple of 12 + 6 (3 edge stitches on each side). Note: Enlarging the Garter Stitch Top will require an additional skein of sock yarn.
Written Instructions
Lace Body (Chart A)
If desired, place/slip stitch markers at brackets [] in the following instructions. Row1: k1 tbl, k1, incr3, [p1, k2, yo, k1, yo, k4, k3tog, p1] repeat to last 3 stitches, incr3, k1, k1 tbl Row 2: k1 tbl, k1, yo, p2, k1, [k1, p10, k1] repeat to last 5 stitches, k1, p2, yo, k1, k1 tbl Row 3: k1 tbl, k1, incr3, k2, p1, [p1, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, k3tog, p1] repeat to last 6 stitches, p1, k2, incr3, k1, k1 tbl Row 4: k1 tbl, k1, yo, p5, k1, [k1, p10, k1] repeat to last 8 stitches, k1, p5, yo, k1, k1 tbl Row 5: k1 tbl, k1, incr3, k5, p1, [p1, k4, yo, k1, yo, k2, k3tog, p1] repeat to last 9 stitches, p1, k5, incr3, k1, k1 tbl Row 6: k1 tbl, k1, yo, p8, k1, [k1, p10, k1] repeat to last 11 stitches, k1, p8, yo, k1, k1 tbl Row 7: k1 tbl, k1, incr3, k8, p1, [p1, ssk, k8, yo, p1] repeat to last 12 stitches, p1, k8, incr3, k1, k1 tbl Row 8: k1 tbl, k1, yo, [k1, p1 tbl, p9, k1] repeat to last 2 stitches, yo, k1, k1 tbl Row 9: k1 tbl, k1, incr3, [p1, ssk, k8, yo, p1] repeat to last 3 stitches, incr3, k1, k1 tbl Row 10: k1 tbl, k1, yo, p2, k1, [k1, p1 tbl, p9, k1] repeat to last 5 stitches, k1, p2, yo, k1, k1 tbl Row 11: k1 tbl, k1, incr3, k2, p1, [p1, ssk, k8, yo, p1] repeat to last 6 stitches, p1, k2, incr3, k1, k1 tbl Row 12: k1 tbl, k1, yo, p5, k1, [ k1, p1 tbl, p9, k1] repeat to last 8 stitches, k1, p5, yo, k1, k1 tbl Row 13: k1 tbl, k1, incr3, k5, p1, [p1, sk2p, k4, yo, k1, yo, k2, p1] repeat to last 9 stitches, p1, k5, incr3, k1, k1 tbl Row 14: k1 tbl, k1, yo, p8, k1, [k1, p10, k1] repeat to last 11 stitches, k1, p8, yo, k1, k1 tbl Row 15: k1 tbl, k1, incr3, sk2p, (k1, yo) x2, k3, p1, [p1, sk2p, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, p1] repeat to last 12 stitches, p1, sk2p, k3, (yo, k1) x 2, incr3, k1, k1 tbl Row 16: k1 tbl, k1, yo, [k1, p10, k1] repeat to last 2 stitches, yo, k1, k1 tbl Row 17: k1 tbl, k1, incr3, [p1, sk2p, k2, yo, k1, yo, k4, p1] repeat the last 3 stitches, incr3, k1, k1 tbl Row 18: k1 tbl, k1, yo, p2, k1, [k1, p10, k1] repeat to last 5 stitches, k1, p2, yo, k1, k1 tbl Row 19: k1 tbl, k1, incr3, k2, p1, [p1, yo, k8, k2tog, p1] repeat to last 6 stitches, p1, k2, incr3, k1, k1 tbl Row 20: k1 tbl, k1, yo, p5, k1, [k1, p9, p1 tbl, k1] repeat to last 8 stitches, k1, p5, yo, k1, k1 tbl Row 21: k1 tbl, k1, incr3, k5, p1, [p1, yo, k8, k2tog, p1] repeat to last 9 stitches, p1, k5, incr3, k1, k1 tbl Row 22: k1 tbl, k1, yo, p8, k1, [k1, p9, p1 tbl, k1] repeat to last 11 stitches , k1, p8, yo, k1, k1 tbl Row 23: k1 tbl, k1, incr3, k8, p1, [p1, yo, k8, k2tog, p1] repeat to last 12 stitches, p1, k8, incr3, k1, k1 tbl Row 24: k1 tbl, k1, yo, [k1, p9, p1 tbl, k1] repeat to last 2 stitches, yo, k1, k1 tbl
Lace Border (Chart B)
Place a bead and then knit the required stitch where it is highlighted in green. Knit the required stitch and then place a bead on the stitch where it is highlighted in red. Row1: k1 tbl, k1, incr3, [p1, k2, yo, k1, yo, k4, k3tog, p1] repeat to last 3 stitches, incr3, k1, k1 tbl Row 2: k1 tbl, k1, yo, p2, k1, [k1, p10, k1] repeat to last 5 stitches, k1, p2, yo, k1, k1 tbl Row 3: k1 tbl, k1, incr3, k2, p1, [p1, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, k3tog, p1] repeat to last 6 stitches, p1, k2, incr3, k1, k1 tbl Row 4: k1 tbl, k1, yo, p5, k1, [k1, p10, k1] repeat to last 8 stitches, k1, p5, yo, k1, k1 tbl Row 5: k1 tbl, k1, incr3, k5, p1, [p1, k4, yo, k1, yo, k2, k3tog, p1] repeat to last 9 stitches, p1, k5, incr3, k1, k1 tbl Row 6: k1 tbl, k1, yo, p8, k1, [k1, p10, k1] repeat to last 11 stitches, k1, p8, yo, k1, k1 tb k1 tbl, k1, incr3, k8, p1, [yo, ssk, k9, p1] repeat to last 12 stitches, p1, k8, incr3, k1, k1 tb Row 8: k1 tbl, k1, yo, [p11, p1] repeat to last 2 stitches, yo, k1, k1 tbl Row 9: k1 tbl, k1, incr3, [k1, yo, ssk, k7, k2tog, yo] repeat to last 3 stitches, incr3, k1, k1 tbl Row 10: k1 tbl, k1, yo, p3, [p1, yo, p2tog, p5, p2tog tbl, yo, p2] repeat to last 5 stitches, p3, yo, k1, k1 tbl Row 11: k1 tbl, k1, incr3, k3, [k3, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k2] repeat to last 6 stitches, k3, incr3, k1, k1 tbl Row 12: k1 tbl, k1, yo, p6, [p3, yo, p2tog, p1, p2tog tbl, yo, p4] repeat to last 8 stitches, p6, yo, k1, k1 tbl Row 13: k1 tbl, k1, incr3, (k2 tog, yo) x 3, [incr3, (yo, ssk) x 2, yo, cdd, yo, (k2tog, yo) x 2] repeat to last 9 stitches, (ssk, yo) x 2, ssk, incr3, k1, k1 tbl Row 14: k1 tbl, k1, yo, p to last 2 stitches, yo, k1, k1 tbl Row 15: k1 tbl, k1, incr3, k1, k2tog, (yo, k2tog) x 2, yo, k3tog, [yo, incr3, (yo, sk) x 3, k1, (k2tog, yo) x 2, k2tog] repeat to last 11 stitches, (yo, ssk) x 3, yo, k1, incr3, k1, k1 tbl Note: If you are using stitch markers you will need to move the first marker to allow the k3tog then replace marker. Row 16: k1 tbl, k1, yo, p to last 2 stitches, yo, k1, k1 tbl Row 17: k1 tbl, k1, (k2tog, yo) x 6, [k2tog, yo, k1 , (yo, ssk) x 3, yo, cdd, yo, (k2tog, yo) x 2] repeat to last 14 stitches, (ssk, yo) x 5, ssk, k1, k1 tbl
Bind Off
Bind off on the wrong side of the work. A stretchy bind off is recommended, e.g. Jenny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind off (Video tutorial available here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53Mtbkyf5cQ).
Sample shown was bound off with a crochet bind off
ttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=efRaicXpT 8) with a chain worked between each stitc
Blocking
Place your completed shawl into a basin of warm water with Soak or Eucalan for 20 mins. Squeeze out water without wringing and place in a towel and roll up. Press firmly (or stand on it) to get most of the water out. If you have blocking wires put these along the straight edge of the shawl leaving the very ends free and pin these out in a straight line. Pin out the longer beaded ends to suit so that the lace is stretched out. Weave in ends when dry.
Thanks
Thanks to Boo Knits whose basic shawl shape I shamelessly purloined. She writes great patterns - check her out on Ravelry. http://www.ravelry.com/designers/boo-knits Thanks also to Eleanor Dixon for her Tech Editing skills, Rachael for her modelling and MarciaViola for test knitting.
5lPage @Sue Schreuder 2013
Chart A - Lace Body
Chart B - Border
Line 15: If you are using stitch markers you will need to move the first marker for the k3 together for the first repeat only. Note: The pale grey shaded centre section shows the pattern repeat on the charts. The dark black lines show where stitch markers may be placed. A green stitch should be beaded prior to knitting the required stitch. A red stitch should be beaded after knitting the required stitch.
