The yarn for this kit was custom dyed by the wonderful Brenna, long time Wee Tiny Sock Club member. We collaborated on the idea of a thrummed sock from start to finish, including choice of fibers and colorways. Brenna suggested a gradient dye for the strawberry itself, and I love it! I chose to start my strawberry in the pale green portion of the gradient, for that “almost ripe" look, but there is enough yarn in each mini skein so that if you want to start closer to the red portion of the gradient, you can have a fully ripe strawberry without running out of yarn. To see more of Brenna's gorgeous colorways, shawl pins and more, visit her shop at ThreeLittleCrows.etsy.com.
abbreviations
K2tog Knit 2 together (1 st increased) Kfb Knit into the front and back of the st (1 st increased) Sk2po Sl 1, K2tog, pass slipped stich over. S1 Slip the st, purlwise unless otherwise indicated. Ssk Slip 2 sts individually knitwise, k them tog through back loop (1 st decreased) TThrum (see “About Thrums") W&T Wrap and turn Wyib With yarn in back
from Three Little Crows: MC: \~20 yds “Strawberry 80% superwash BFL / 20% nylon
Materials
CC1: \~5 yds “Calyx Green" CC2:\~2 yds “Blossom Center" CC3: \~4 yds (Natural White) 80% milk protein / 20% wool Pencil roving, \~1.5 g “Not Quite Ripe" & “Golden Seeds" 100% superwash merino
This photo @ Brenna Swinamer set of five US size 1 DPNs Tapestry needle Separate one strand of pencil roving. Hold the roving with hands 3-4" apart and pull gently to extend to about twice the original the length. Continue along the remaining roving in this fashion. Before each round of the sock, pull off pieces about 2" long, sufficient for the indicated number of thrums, indicated in curly brackets next to the round number.
about Thruma
To work a thrummed stitch (abbreviated “t"), insert the right hand needle as for a knit st and wrap the working yarn around as usual for a knit st. Add a \~2” piece of roving so that the ends of the roving are toward the inside of the piece and the middle of the roving piece is wrapped around the needle with the working yarn. Complete knit st as usual. I used green roving at the start where the yarn was green to pale pink, and transitioned to yellow as the yarn changed to red.
Pattern & Photos @ Meg Bakewell Using MC, cast on 4. Begin working in the round as for i-cord. Round 1: Kfb around. (8 sts on the needle) At this point, rearrange sts so there are 2 sts on each of four DPNs and continue knitting in the round. Round 2: K all sts. Round 3: (Kfb, k1) around. (12 sts) Round 4 {4): \*K1, t, k2, t, k1.\* Repeat from \* to \* once more. Round 5: (Kfb, k2) to end of round. (16 sts) Round 6: K all sts. Round 7: (Kfb, k5, Kfb, k1) twice. (20 sts) Round 8 (6): \*K1, (t, k2) three times.\* Repeat from \* to \* once more. Round 9: (Kfb, k7, kfb, k1) twice. (24 sts) Round 10: K all sts. Round 11: (Kfb, k9, kfb, k1) twice. (28 sts) Round 12 {8): \*K1, (t, k2) to last st, k1.\* Repeat from \* to \* once more. Round 13: (Kfb, k11, kfb, k1) twice. (32 sts) Round 14: K all sts. Round 15: (Kfb, k13, kfb, k1) twice. (36 sts) Round 16 {12): \*K1, (t, k2) to last 2 sts, t, k1. Round 17: K all sts. Round 18: K to last st of round, w&t, p16, w&t, k to end of round. Round 19: K to last 4 sts of round, w&t, p10, w&t, k to end of round. Round 20 {12): (T, k2) to end of round. Round 21: K all sts. Round 22: K to last 7 sts of round, w&t, p4, w&t, k to end of round. Round 23: K all sts. Round 24 {12): K2, (t, k2) to last st, t. Round 25: Repeat Round 19. Round 26: Repeat Round 18. Round 27: K all sts. Round 28 {12): Repeat Round 16. Round 29-31: K all sts. Round 32 {12): Repeat Round 20. Round 33: (K7, k2tog) four times. (32 sts) Round 34: (K6, k2tog) four times. (28 sts) Round 35: (K5, k2tog) four times. (24 sts) Round 36: (K4, k2tog) four times. (20 sts) Rounds 37-38: (K1, p1) around. Break MC. Round 39: Join CC1. K all sts. Set up: Using the backward loop method, cast on 4 sts. Turn work so you can work back across the 4 sts you just cast on. Turning work at end of each row, work in rows as follows: Row 1: K3, ssk. Row 2: Sl1 wyib, K2, kfb. Row 3: K4, ssk. Row 4: Sl1 wyib, k2, k2tog. Row 5: Sl 1, k2, ssk. Repeat rows 2-5 until you reach the last st from the main sock. After that ssk, turn and work one more row in pattern. Using another needle, pick up 4 sts from the cast on edge at the start of the leaves. Use a 3-needle bind off to join the end of the leaves to the beginning and bind off all sts. -Lowe Center: Using CC2, cast on 5. Row 1: Kl, pl, kl, pl, k1. Row 2: Kfb, kl, pl, k1. Row 3-7: (P1, k1) to last st, pl. Row 8: Ssk, pl, kl, pl, k2tog. Row 9: Repeat Row 1. Bind off all sts. Break CC2 leaving a \~12" tail for finishing. Petals: Using CC3, cast on 3 sts. Work in i-cord until work measures 1". \*Next row, Sk2po. (1 st remains) Next row, K in to the front, back and front again of the st. (3 sts) Continue in i-cord for another inch.\* Repeat from \* to \* three more times. SK2PO, Break yarn and thread through remaining st. Weave in ends on main sock and flower petals. Weave in one end on flower center. Thread the remaining end up and down around the edge of the flower center like a drawstring. Pull tight to form a round ball. You may stuff with a bit of roving. Weave in end to secure ball shape. Bring the increase/decrease junctions of flower petals together in the center to form a flower shape. Using flower center's yarn end, stitch petals together in the middle and attach the flower center to petals. Finally, attach the flower to the sock at the base of the leaves.
