Dogwood Cabled Hat
This pattern makes a relatively light toque. The cabling and decreases around it introduce some holes, smaller than yarn overs, but making the hat less wind- and cold-resistant than a hat ofthe same size knitted in stockingette or kip1 rib.
Requirements
Circular needle and/or 5 double pointed needles. The double-pointed needles will be used, at very least, to finish the top of the hat. Approximately 15om of worsted weight yarn. Stitch markers
I knit this haton mm circular needes, witha gauge of2 stithes and 3 rounds per centimete in stockingette, but the pattern is easily sized.
Instructions
Cast on a multipleof 16 stitches, marking sets of 16 as you go. The pattern is 16 stitches long, so ach marked section will be one panel. Knit tefn, usng t paul2, kt, pu, kit4,ul, kit, p. The ribbing can be longer or shorter, and if a rolled brim is desired, purl one round and then repeat the ribbing. Alternately, picking up stitches around the brim and knitting more ribbing later on wil give you extra length if needed. [1. pl, pfb, ssk, p2tog, ki, kfb, kfb, kI, sl, pi, pso, kztog, pfb,p What this series of decreases and increases accomplishes is that it ends the $^{2;}$ stitch-wide ribs as points and expands the $4$ stitch-wide ribs to 6 stitches each, preparing them to be split into two 3-stitch-wide cables. 12. P5, k6, p5 13. P4, c3r, c3l, P4 14. P4, k3, p2, k3, P4 15. P4, k3, p2, k3, P4 16. P4, c3l, c3r, P4 17. P5, c3x3l, P5 18. P5, k6, p5 Atthis point,the ribbing has split intotwo cables, which spread apart and thencame back tUguti, uusoug tal uni. 19. P4, c3r, c3l, P4 20. P3, C3r,P2 c31,P3 2. P3, k3, P4, k3,P3 2, P1, p2tog, kn,kfb, kI, P4, kI, fb, sI, pl,pso, pl Thisexpas t stithwidecal $4$ stitch-wide ones, in preparation forsplitng them in half. 23 P2, k4, P4, k4, p2 24.p1, c2r, c2, p2, c2r, cl, 25. P1,k2,p2,k2, p2,k2,p2,k2p 26. p1, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p1 27. p1, cl 2r,p, cl cr,p 28. p2, c2x2r, P4, c2xzl,p2 29. P2, k4, P4, k4, p2 Here, the 2-stitch-wide cables have twined around each other once and are preparedl to split into I-stitch-wide cables, which will wrap with the cables from other panels. 30. p1, c, 2l,p2, c2r, c, 31. p1,k2, p2, k2, p2, k2,p2, k2,p 32. cIr,cl, cr,cll,c, l, l 33.K, p2, k2,p2, k2,p2,k2,p2, k Do not knit the last stith of this round. The next round twists stitches from ajacent panels together, so use the last stitch as a part of the right twist at the beginning of round 34 instead. 34. rt, p2,It, p2,It, p2,It, p Knit the last stitch of this round. 35. k,p2,k2,p2,k2,p2,k2,p,k 36. cil, c, il, r,ci, , cl, 37. p1,k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p1 38. p1, rt,p2, It, p2, rt, p2, It, p 39. p1,k2, p2,k2,p2,k2,2,k,p 40.cIr, cl cr,cil, cr,cl, r l 41. KI, p2,k2,p2,k2,p2,k2,p,k Do not knit the last stiteh of this round. Like round 3, use the last stith as a part of the next round's twists instead. 42. rt, p2tog, It, p2tog, rt, sl, pl, psso, It, sl, p1, psso (12 stitches per panel) Knit the last stitch of this round. 43. kI, p1, k2, p1, k2, p, k2, p1, kI 44. cil, k2tog, p1, rt, pl, sk, cir (1o stitches per panel) 45 p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2,p1 46. p1, k2tog, pl, rt, p, ssk, p1 47. Sl,pl, psso, pI, k2, pl, ptog 48. s1, pl, psso, rt, p2tog 49. p1, k2, p1 50. sl, pl, psso, p2tog Finishbyrawing theworking yarn throughthremaining stitches, pulling tight and th weaing it in.
Notes
Charting
All stitches marked in grey on the chart are from the next panel over and are largely included for illustration of how the pattern interacts with the surounding panels. The exceptions are rounds 3334 and 41-42. In both of those, the last stitch in the first round should be twisted with the first stitch in the next. The last stitch in the second round should simply be knit.
Twists
The twists may be accomplished by knitting the stitches out of order, as described in thelegend, or they can be done by cabling one by one as follows: Right Twist: Slip ne stitchto cabling needle, held in back. Knitthe next stitch on the left needle,thn knit the stitch on the cabling needle. Left Twist: Slip one stitch to cabling needle, held in front. Knit the next stitchon the left needle, then knit the stitch on the cabling needle.
Sizing
While the circumference of the hat can be controlled by choosing how many stithes to cast on, there are four places on the hat where it can be deepened with simple repeats of a set of rows. The first, and simplest, is to add rows ofribbing. While this doesn't extend the pattern, it does permit you to deepen after the fact, by picking up stitches and knitting extra rows of rib. The second is to repeat rows 12-17, 23-28 or both. This makes the trunk or branches ofthe tree longer without signifcantly altering the pattern. Alsoin its favour is that there are only four rounds of cabling in that set of rows, and none of them are particularly fnicky. (Gain: 6 per repeat.) Third, yu oul reeat rows-39. This has the advanageofrepeating an interesting partf th patt, whreraare intwiningcrspaTwids thatya most cable-heavy part of the hat. (Gain: 8 per repeat.) Finally, you could repeat every row that is only knit and purl. That has a few catches, though. Rows - I0, 14-15, 21, 23, 25-26, 29, and 31 should repeat as normal. However, to make the twisted stitches not lookincredibly anomalous, rows 33-34 and $37{\cdot}38$ should berepeated together, knitting 3 and 39 as normal. 41-42 should also be repeated together, once with purls between the knit and twisted stitches, once with the decreases as charted. (Gain: 16 rounds.)
Legend and Glossary
