"eucrite: n. 1. a stony meteorite.. 2. a rock consisting of a very basic gabbro -- From German ‘Eukrit' from Greek'eukritos', easily discerned, fromeu $^+$ kritos‘seperated'" Written for a set of 5 dpns, ${\cal U}{\cal S}\not=00$ 100 g/about 400 yds ${\sim}N^{\varrho}\;1{\sim}$ (superfine/fingering) yarn Tapestry needle for grafting.
Simplebut unusual ribing. $(\downarrow[\bar{\bf{\Theta}}]\backslash|>\forall1.0.0)$
\*slip all stitches purlwise unless specifically otherwise noted. The slipped stitches in the sl2tog, k1, p2sso decrease are slipped tog as if to k2tog. $^{\ast}|$ personally cast on all the purl stitches using a different twist in the base loop of the long-tail cast on. If you're familiar with needletatting, I used the two different halves of the double stitch.
Leg:
CO 84 sts using long-tail or similar cast on (such as Old Norwegian), and divide stitches equally among four double pointed needles so that there are 21 stitches on each needle. Join without twisting the cast on, and begin working $^{\ast}\mathsf{K}_{3},$ $\mathsf{P4^{*}}$ ribbing. If you like, cast on an extra stitch and knit it together with the last stitch on the other end, or use your preferred method of joining. Insert a marker at or near the beginning of the round if you need to do so to remember where it is. Continue the ribbing to the desired leg length, or about 6 inches or so, ending two stitches before the end of the round. Slip these two stitches onto the first needle, and slip two stitches from needle two to needle three.
Turn and work across needles four and three, working stitches onto one needle. Row 1 (Ws): SI 1 st wyif, $\ast_{\mathsf{k}1}$ P3, k1, $\mathsf{p}2^{\star}$ , to last six sts, k1, P3, k2. Row 2: sl 1 st wyif, \*p1, k1, sl1, k1, p1, sl1, $k1^{\ast}$ to last five stitches; k1, sl1, k1, p1, k1. Row 3: repeat row 1 Row 4: sl1 st wyif, \*p1, k1, sl1, k1, p1, k1, $S_{\lambda}\ast\lambda^{\ast}$ to last five stitches, k1, sl1, k1, p1, k1. Repeat rows 1-4 until you have 42 heel flap rows--you will end with a RS rw 2. Heel Turn: Row 1 (Ws): sl1 wyif, work 26 sts as they appear, p2tog, turn. Row 2: sl1 wyib, work 12 sts in pattern, ssk, turn Row 3: sl1 wyif, work 26 sts as they appear, p2tog, turn Repeat rows $2\ 83$ until all the side stitches are consumed, leaving 14 sts, and ending with row 2.
Gusset:
Using the needle that holds the heel stitches, PU 21 sts along the edge. Pick up 2 extra stitches in stitches from the leg at the corner. Work across the two instep needles in the established rib. At the other corner, using a fourth needle, pick up the 2 extra stitches, and PU 21 stitches along the other edge of the heel flap. Knit 7 stitches from the first heel needle. Rounds now begin at the bottom of the foot; you're ready to begin a round now. Rnd 1(setup): p1 (k3, p1, k4, p1) twice, k3, p1, k4, ssk; work instep stitches in established rib; k2tog, k4, p1, k3, p1 (k3, p1, k4, p1) twice. Rnd 2: work stitches on Needle 1 as they appear until 6 stitches remain, k2tog, k4 ; work instep stitches as established; k4, ssk, work stitches as they appear. Rnd 3: work all stitches in rib according to appearance. Repeat rnds $2\,\&\,3$ until you are back to 84 sts. Foot: At this point, the gusset columns will be consuming a knit column; purl the 6th stitch in on each side of the sole. Continue until you require about 2 $1/4^{\prime\prime}$ to reach the end of your foot.
Toe Setup rnds:
1: Work in pattern until you reach the k5 column at the edge of the sole, M1, then work the next 6 sts as they appear. Ssp, work to the last knit column on the instep, K2, p2tog, work 6 sts in pat, M1. 2: Work as established, knitting the newly made stitches. 3: Work in pattern until you reach the k5 column at the edge of the sole, M1, then work the next 6 sts as they appear. Ssp, work to the last knit column on the instep, K1, p2tog, work 6 sts in pat, M1. 4: Work as established, purling the newly made stitches. Move two or three of the k5 column on each side to the instep needle, moving 5 stitches onto the sole needle when working Rnd B sequences and moving a single stitch back to the instep for rnd D.
Rnd A: \*Work to 1 st. before that k5 column, k2tog, k3, ssk, work sts as they appear\* repeat once more and finish round. Rnd B1(B2): Mark center stitch of k5 column (as CSS). \*Work to 3(1) Sts before CSS, p2(0), s2tog,k1,p2sso, $\mathsf{p}_{2}(\mathsf{o})^{\ast}$ , finish round Rnd C: Work all stitches as they appear. Rnd D: \*Work to 2 sts before CSS, k2tog, k1, ssk\*, finish rnd. Work rnds in this order: $\mathsf{A C}(4\times)\mathsf{B}1\mathsf{C}(4\times)\mathsf{D}\mathsf{C}(4\times)\mathsf{B}2(4\times).$
Graft, placing 1 CSS with the heel stitches and the other with the sole stitches. Now make the other sock!
willatettoget bete pictuessho but pe eeded to gthepattem ot. Sizing: Lengthening or shortening is very simple since there is no row repeat. Changing the circumference, however.. For a larger sock, the best bet is to knit it on larger needles with slightly thicker yarn. Since it was originally designed for an average woman's foot on very small needles but is certainly not a feminine pattern, it would be an excellent candidate for giant footed guys. For a smaller sock, unless you knit more tightly than I do, you'd want to size down, which would mean 56 sts and a change in the sole ribbing. But do contact me (via Ravelry PM or arachnera@gmail.com) if you're interested in this smaller size. Substituting Yarn: To simulate the look shown here, choose a slightly variegated 4- ply+ superwash wool/nylon blend. However, a pure wool would create a similar look, if a few concerns about wear and washing. Sock-Ease is about as soft as Opal or other European sock yarns with a similar fiber content(e.g. Regia, JaWoll). It is also a very thin yarn, I would say close to the thickness of Cascade Heritage and a little thinner than Knit Picks Stroll. That said, Stroll would still work well, as would any sock-appropriate fingering weight yarn, keeping in mind that heavily variegated yarns may obsure the patterning and that there isn't much textural interest to spark up plain one color yarn.(That is an idea for a sequel.) A long stripe, like Noro Kureyon/Silk Garden Sock or CPY Mini Mochi could work well, although the latter two need a slightly larger gauge. This pattern was designed and used as a Ravelympics 2008 project for Team Ankh Morpork Knitters' Guild under the name of a troll from Monstrous Regiment, "Jade". It was subsequently named from the dictionary (I like etymologies.) and is now being published as a project for Team BAA of the same group in the Ravelympics 2010.
This is Version 1.o.o. No Revislons.
Copyright 2010 SJ, aka Arachnera (Arachnera's Web/Kalendas Graecas Designs) You may make asmany copies as you like of this pattern, you may give it to your friends, you may passit out on the street if you wish.If you shouldlike to give out this pattern in aclass, go ahead.You're welcome to give out the items you've made. However, there are a few things that you may NOT do with this pattern: 1: Sell it. And I ask that if you give out this pattern (at a LYs) it not be limited to purchases. 2: Remove the statement of authorship. 3:Mass-produce $(5+)$ items for sale without express permission from the author. In the software world, many excellent programs, including the Linux OS, are circulated under the GNU public license, which states that users may modify and redistribute or even sellthe software. You may modify this pattern given that you note its original authorship, and notify the author before selling a modification should you do so. You MAY NOT sell the original pattern. Should you like touse this pattern foritems that you plan to sellat a craft show or bazaar of some sort, you may do so.If you plan,though, to produce the items in large quantities, as in 5 or more, email me or send mea message through Ravelry detailing what sort of event (craft show/charitable event), where, and why you are interested in this particular pattern. If you happen tobe enamored with the pattern and churn out ten before you know it, I'd like to know, but I don't mind : ) As long as you don't violate what you arenot allowed to dooruse this pattern for something illegal, any other use is generally allright. If you'd like to translate thispattern into anotherlanguage and are willing toput it up publicly end me amessage on Ravelry soI can putitup on the pattern pag. This is the Arachnera's Web Free Pattern Use Statement
