Claudia the Vamp Amigurumi Pattern: Intermediate Level Crochet Tutorial and Guide

Claudia

Skill level: Intermediate Finished result: Approx 5" This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution NoDerivs 3.0 commercial License. For more information, visit http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/3.0/. Please don't share/reproduce/modify/sell this pattern. You can modify or sell dolls created from this pattern as long as you give credit by linking back to the Etsy store (http://www.etsy.com/shop/Periwinkleimp) or website (http://peardream.com/nonaptime/)

Pattern: Claudia the Vamp

Materials:

Abbreviations: Size 10/1.20mm crochet hook Stuffing: poly-fil, cotton, or plastic pellets Skin: Size 10 Acrylic yarn in Light peach, white, metallic silver Eyes: Iron-on fabric, felt or safety eyes Face: Embroidery thread Hair: Brown felt or yarn Sewing needle, tapestry needle, scissors, stitch marker, fabric glue Optional: Artist chalk for blushing bl - back loop fl - front loop ch(s) - chain dec - decrease dc - double crochet inc - increase sc -- single crochet. sc2tog - single crochet 2 stitches together (a decrease). sl - slip stitch st(s) - stitches [ - Set apart a group of stitches to be repeated as a whole.

Notes:

You can substitute brown or linen instead of light peach for skin color. All rounds are worked in a continuous spiral. Do not join rounds unless directed. Use a stitch marker for counting your rounds. A safety pin or piece of different colored thread can be used as an alternative. Gauge is not important but keep your stitches tight. The pattern is written in table format with notes included so that it's easier on the eyes.

Tips:

A common problem when working amigurumi in continuous rounds or a striped pattern is the stairstep seam running diagonally when you change colors. See needlenoodle's methods for jogless stripes at http://needlenoodles.com/home/node/139 Different methods of fastening off amigurumi at http://www.planetjune.com/blog/amigurumihelp/fastening-off/ Joining amigurumi pieces together at http://www.planetjune.com/blog/joining-amigurumi/ Instead of sc2tog, you can use an invisible decrease if you see gaps in your work - http://www.planetjune.com/blog/amigurumi-help/invisible-decrease/ See http://www.anniesattic.com/crochet/content.html?type_id=S for more information about crochet or alternative stitches you can use for the skirt instead of double crochet. See http://www.hookandneedles.com/2008/03/22/amigurumi-tutorial-1/ for an extensive list of tutorials and videos for amigurumi.

Eyes (Using Iron On Fabric Eyes)

With iron-on fabric, you have the option of making more detailed looking eyes. How simple or detailed they are is completely up to you. Drawing your own eyes gives your amigurumi more character instead of the bug-eyed look common to using safety eyes or buttons. Iron on fabrics or iron on adhesives are available at any fabric store. They're usually used to patch up clothing. These are different from iron on transfers which are commonly fed on your printer. Iron on fabric usually come in sheets and look like actual fabric right side up and has a shiny, waxy gloss on the wrong side. Be sure to read the instructions on how to apply iron on fabrics before you use them.

Iron on fabric eyes:

1. Cut out a piece of the iron on fabric in the size you want your eyes to be. 2. Carefully and lightly draw the eyes with a pencil. 3. Trace the final pattern with a pen. Ideally, use a sign pen or any pen that doesn't bleed on paper or leaves a very precise and fine line. I use a Micron Pigment Ink pen. 4. For this pattern, I used markers to color in her eyes. 5. Carefully cut the eyes with scissors or a cutter. 6. For a childlike look, I place the eyes right above row 19 and leave an eye and a half space in between. For a more mature looking face, place the eyes right above row 18 or 17 and space the eyes equal to 1 eye's width. 7. Follow instructions provided by Iron on fabric for application.Use a piece of cloth over the eyes to make sure it doesn't stain your iron.

Pattern

I like to make the head first especially if I'm using iron on fabric for the eyes since you get a preview for what your Amigurumi will look. It helps to have a face to look at. Head (make 1)

\* Fasten off and leave enough thread for sewing later. Tip: When using iron on fabric, wait for the head to cool off before continuing. This ensures that the eyes are securely attached. Carefully round the face out when cooled. Tip: Just stuff the head enough for it to be firm but don't overstuff. If the head is too heavy it will tend towobble. Ears (make 2)

\* Fasten off and leave enough thread for sewing later. Arms (make 2)

\* Fasten off and leave enough thread for sewing later. ip: You can do a color change on row 6 if you want to give your doll a bracel Legs (make 2)

Torso (continued after joining legs)

Join legs to form the torso.

Ensure that the feet are pointing at the same direction. Begin by making a chain using white yarn.

Join legs by 3sc. Begin by joining where the toes are pointing. Pull the loop from the first ST all the way through Begin the first row for the torso. There should be 15 stitches for each leg round.

Work your way to the opposite direction. Use SC pulling the yarn through both legs to join. You're very likely to lose count during this step so it's very useful to use a stitch marker to see where you begin the first row of the torso. The first three stitches used to secure the legs together do not count for the torso's first row.

Tip: Alternatively, you can use [2dc, dc] for increasing the skirt to have a more tapering, balloon look if you don't like it to be too ruffly.

Assembly

This is the pattern I used to make the felt hair. The pattern is made from 6 wedges that form a hemisphere when sewn together. This is the approximate shape and how to figure out the dimensions needed. Head circumference: 5 inches Radius: 1 inch (Measure from the center of the magic ring to doll's hairline, row 8 or 9)

If you haven't already, sew the ears to the head which will help you cut out scrap hair and work around them while working on the felt hair.

Take the head's measurements and cut out your pattern

Sew the seams together. Sew the front and back pieces on the wrong side.

Flip the cap and try it on the doll. Using scraps, cut out scraps of Cut out the bangs and hair hair. unevenly for a better look. This is an organic process so add as many scraps of hair you want or necessary to hide bald spots.

Once you're happy with the way the scraps look, sew them on first. Sew the main cap on. Sew with the bangs flipped over so that when you flip it after sewing, it has a bumpy effect. Flip over the main cap. Secure with fabric glue underneath if necessary or if you want to add more stability.

Alternative hair tutorials if you don't want to use felt:

. Making and attaching hair - http://needlenoodles.com/home/?q=node/83 Embroidered hair - http://owlishly.typepad.com/owlishly/2007/08/amigurumi-hair.html Amigurumi hair methods - http://mygurumi.blogspot.com/2008/10/how-to-amigurumi-hair.html

Sew the parts together and you're done!

Check to make sure that the parts are all facing the right way before attaching. The head usually swivels towards the left or right if you're a stitch too far off from the center.