SWEDISHHERITAGE
bng Btickfia This sock is designed for the group Sock Knitters Anonymous at Ravelry. It is the “MocK" (= Mystery Sock) in July 2012 -- and therefore the pattern is written in four separate clues. The sock isknit tupwith strad alovepateing whchis heailpiredbytraditonal wedish/cannaiakin The photo shows two decoration dolls knit by me more than 30 years ago (in my late teens). They have traditional stranded patterns from the south of Halland (the region of Sweden where I live).
When I cast on for a pair of MOCK's I'm sometimes worried if the socks will fit. It can be hard to modify the pattern for fit when you only have one clue to start with. And to wait for all the clues before casting on is not an option because that takes the mystery out of the MOCK ?. Thus I have included several alternatives in the pattern about how to adapt the pattern for fit; customizing foot length, adapting for high instep and/or making the top of the leg wider for “shapely calves". I hope that this will make it easier for you to create socks that fit, though you'll have to make several decisions along the way.. More about this in the clues that follow, so let's get started!
Yarn:
Fingering sock yarn (4 ply) in three colors. One dark (MCi), one light (MC2) and one bright (CC). The two main colors need to have good contrast to make the pattern justice. The contrasting color should preferably “stand out" against both MC's. If you want you can change the MC's and have a light MC1 and a dark MC2. MC1: 120-220 m (130-240 yards) CC: 30-55 m (35-60 yards)
Gauge: Needles:
Tapestry needle: For weaving in ends Stitch markers: Loops of waste yarn or paper clips can be used Size: XS (S, M, L, XL) Foot length is easy adjustable and the pattern includes instructions for normal and high instep and for slender legs and shapely calves.
| To fit foot/ankle circumference e (1o% negative ease) | |||||
| Size | XS | X | M | L | XL |
| Cm | 16.5 | 19 | 21.5 | 24 | 26.5 |
| Inch | 6.5 | 7.6 | 8.6 | 9.7 | 10.7 |
Techniques used:
Judy's Magic Cast On (www.youtube.com/watch?v=lhBISoAhhQY) Stranded knitting. Increases and decreases, including “knit back and front" Slipped stitches
Legend
KKnit Kbf Knit in back and front of the stitch (= increases 1 st) K2tog Knit 2 stitches together MMake one stitch by picking up the loop between stitches and knit it twisted. Pick up a MC1 loop. PPurl Pbf Purl in back and front of the stitch (= increases 1 st) P2togPurl 2 stitches together PM Place marker RM Remove marker SI Slip (as to purl if nothing else is stated in the pattern) SSK Slip (as to knit), Slip (as to knit), Knit the two stitches together through the back of the loops SSP Slip (as to knit), Slip (as to knit),put the two stitches back on the left needle and purl them together through the back of the loops yb Yarn in back (between needle tips) yf Yarn in front (between needle tips)
Toe
Read the chart from the bottom up, right to left (the chart is repeated two times in the round). If you want the “increase lines" at start and end of the chart to look as similar as possible (mirrored) I recommend doing the M's at the end of the chart "twisted the other way": "Make one right" Cast on 22 (26, 30, 34, 38) sts in MC1 (dark), using Judy's Magic Cast On; 11 (13, 15, 17, 19) sts on each needle. R1： Knit with MC1, this is row 1 (3, 5, 7, 9) of the toe chart R2: Use MC1 and MC2 and follow the next row of the toe chart - making increases accordingly Continue to follow the chart until you have 50 (58, 66, 74, 82) stitches in the round - stop after a MC1 round (odd numbered in the chart).
Foot
The first half of the stitches is "instep" and the second half is "sole". Arrange the stitches on the needles so that the instep stitches are on one needle (or 2 dpn's) and the sole stitches on one needle (or 2 dpn's) - or use stitch markers between instep and sole stitches. At the end of this clue is a table with information about how many repeats of chart B to knit for different sizes and foot lengths. Both instep and sole patterns are charted. Change colors according to the charts. (Don't break the yarn when changing color.) On the sole the first and last stitches are knit in MC1 (dark). On rounds without MC1 the first and last stitches are slipped, not to interrupt the dark line between instep and sole patterns Repeats are marked with a thick line. Repeat the stitches between two vertical thick lines sufficient times to reach the end of the instep and sole respectively. Follow chart B, rounds 1-4. Start the instep with st 1. Then repeat sts 2-5 to the end of the instep. Start the sole with sts 1-2. Then repeat sts 3-4 until there is only one st left. Knit stitch 5.
MC1 Darkmaincolor MC2Lightmaincolor CC Bright contrastingcolor Repeat the 4 rounds of the chart. In the table below is information about how many repeats to do depending on size and foot length. The numbers in the table are the total repeats of Chart B.
| Foot length | X-Small | Small | Medium | Large | X-Large | |
| inches | cms | |||||
| 8 | 20.3 | 9 | 6 | 5 | ||
| 8.5 | 21.6 | 10 | 7 | 6 | 4 | |
| 9 | 22.9 | 11 | 9 | 8 | 5 | 4 |
| 9.5 | 24.1 | 12 | 10 | 9 | 6 | 5 |
| 10 | 25.4 | 14 | 11 | 10 | 8 | 7 |
| 10.5 | 26.7 | 12 | 11 | 9 | 8 | |
| 11 | 28 | 13 | 10 | 9 | ||
For your information: Gusset and heel will add 32 (40, 42, 50, 52) rounds/rows. In the given gauge this is 8 (10, 10.5, 12.5, 13) cm or 3.1 (3.9, 4.1, 4.9, 5.1) inch. Foot length is the length of the sock measured along the sole from the toe (cast on) to the "tip" of the heel. If you want the sock to be shorter than you foot (negative ease) knit one repeat less. This is the end of clue 1. In the next clue the gusset increases start.
