thefibreworks
Designs by SJ Grifin - http://www.thefibreworks.wordpress.com - on Ravelry: szzn1225
wildflower socks
buds & flowers adapted from an 18th century Swedish design
notes
SkillI Level: Intermediate or advanced beginner. Knit from the top down. To work this pattern you should be familiar with circular knitting on doublepointedneedleswithtwocolors. The patterm is written for five needles (the sock on 4 and kniting with the fifth).. to me this makes knitting more comfortable. There is less pulling and stress at needle changes, more room for your hands to hold the sock as you knit And.. dividing for heel and toe is much easier. You've got to divide the total number of stitches by four to position the heel and instep and you're already set up for it on 5 needles... You can also use a small circular needle if your fingers are nimble enough to hold their tiny tips. If you do, place a marker at the beginning of the round. However, you may use 4 needles if you wish. I also recommend knitting both socks at the same time. This requires an extra set of needles, BUT if you've knitted 1 sock at a time you may have already ended up with 2 socks of slightly (or greatly) differing sizes.... or may have ended up with 3/4 of a pair of socks because you got sick and tired of knitting the same thing all over again... the latter was my problem until I adopted the twoat-the-same-time method. Knit one at a time if you prefer. Please read through the entire pattern before you begin knitting to make sure you understand the instructions. If you have a question, please contact me through Ravelry at user: szzn1225 The designs are Swedish in origin and there's a bibliography at the end of the pattern detailing some of my favorite books on historic knitting.
materials
The original socks were knit with Bartlettyarns Sport Weight 100% wool at 109 yards per ounce. You'll need 510 yards of the Main Color (MC) and 230 yards of the Contrast Color (CC) for all sizes. Any of the following yarns are suitable: Alchemy - Monarch 156yd, 40g - 3 MC, 2 CC @2010 the fibreworks & SJ Grifin ll rights reserved. Not to be produced foresale
Anny Blatt - Baby Blatt 195yd, 50g - 3MC, 2 CC Araucunia - Ranco & Ranco Multi 376yd, 100g Bartlettyarns - Sport 430yd, 4oz. - 2 MC, 1 CC Briggs & Little - Sport & Durasport 430yd, 4oz. - 2 MC, 1 CC Brown Sheep - Nature Spun Sport 184yd, 50g - 3 MC, 2 CC Brown Sheep - Lamb's Pride Superwash Sport 180yd, 50g Crystal Palace - Mini Mochi/Mini Solid 195yd, 50g - 3 MC, 2 CC K1C2 - Crock-O-Dye 416yd, 100g - 2 MC, 1 CC Koigu - Premium Merino 170yd, 50g, 3 MC, 2 CC Kollage - Sock-a-licious 354yd, 100g - 2 MC, 1 CC Lornas Laces - Shepherd Sock 215yd, 56.5g Louet - Gems Fingering 185yd, 50g Mountain Colors - Bearfoot 350yd, 100g Naturally - Haven 194y, 50g Plymouth - Happy Feet 192y, 50g Rauma - Finullgarm 180y, 50g Rauma - Gammelserie 175y, 50g Rowan - Pure Wool 4 ply 174y, 50g Rowan - 4 ply Soft 191y, 50g Satakieli (Schoolhouse Press) - 360yd, 3.50z Vermont Organic Trading Co. - O-Wool 2 ply 198y, 50g Size 1-2 US needles, or the size needed to obtain gauge.
gauge
Size 1-2 US needles 1"=approx. 7 1/2 - 8 sts. Plain colored rounds (including the plain colored section after the instep) tend to be a of looser gauge than when kniting with 2 colors alternating in one row. You can combat this by simply tightening up a bit on plain rounds.
sizes
This pattern is sm (med, Ig), 8 (8 1/2, 9" circumference). Size can be further adjusted in increments of 4 stitches.
cast on
Using MC and holding three of the needles together as if they were one needle, firmly cast on 60 (64, 68) stitches. By using three needles you'll ensure that the cast on stitches will have as much stretch as the ribbing itself, and by casting on FIRMLY (but not so tight that you can't easily slide the stitches on the needles) your perfectly loose cast on row will be perfectly neat as well. Distribute the stitches as follows: Small: Place 16, 14, 16, & 14 stitches on each needle. Medium: 16 stitches on each needle Large: 16, 18, 16 & 18 on each needle
ribbing
Work in knit (K)2, purl (P)2 ribbing for 1 1/2 to 2 inches. Knit 2 rounds in MC then start following the pattern from row #1. Read the chart by beginning at the lower right, read from right to left; bottom to top. When you finish the single row of CC after the “Bud Band" pattern, divide for the heel.
heel flap
Use only the MC (Main Color). 30 (32, 34) stitches will be used for the heel. You've stopped knitting with the CC at the end/beginning of the round which will become the center back of the heel. Place 15 (16, 17) stitches on each side of the center back heel on one needle, a total of 30 (32, 34) stitches. With the right side facing you, attach MC and knit across 30 (32, 34) stitches. Turn. Row 1. Wrong side. Slip the first stitch, purl across (you'll slip the first stitch of every row on the heel flap).Turn. Row 2. Right side. Slip the first stitch,\* K1, slip 1\* repeat From \* to \*, end on K1. Turn. Repeat these two rows the length of your heel ending with a right side row.
find your heel length
Hold a knitting needle just below the triangular bone of your ankle and measure the distance to the bottom of the foot with a metal measuring tape or ruler.
Take the length of your heel and subtract about 1/4" for the correct length of the heel flap.
turn the heel
Row 1. With the purl side facing you, purl 19 P2 together, turn. Row 2. Slip the frst stitch, K9, K2 together, turn. Row 3. Slip the first stitch, P9, P2 together, turn. Repeat rows 2 and 3 until there are 10 stitches left. You should end with a right side row.
instep
Now you are ready to pick up the stitches along each side of the heel fap. Turn the heel to the purl side and look at the edges. By slipping the first stitch of every row when you were knitting the heel flap, you'll see distinct knit stitches (like a braid) along both edges of the heel. These are the stitches you'll be picking up through. Count them. There will be one less stitch on the left edge (purl side facing you). You'll pick up the stitches along one edge, work across the two instep needles, pick up the stitches along the second edge of the heel flap and work to the center back of the heel. Using the MC, pick up one stitch for every edge stitch you see. Pick up the last stitch from the gap between the pick up needle and the first instep needle as follows: \*Insert the needle into a knit stitch one row below, twist the yarn as if casting on, place on the pick up needle and pul through. DECREASES" round 2), k1. 2nd needle: K1, Sl1, replace, K2 tog (see “INSTEP DECREASES" round 2), knit to end. 3rd needle: repeat 1st. 4th needle: repeat 2nd. Round 2. Knit. Knit across the instep. Pick up the first stitch on the remaining side of the heel flap as the last above.\* Pick up the stitches along the other side of the heel flap and knit to the center back of the heel. Attach the CC wool.
instep decreases
Round 1. Work one round in CC. Start following the chart from the Bud Band. Round 2. Working in the color patterm, knit to the last three stitches on the first needle. Insert the needle from left to right into the fronts of the next two stitches and knit them together (K2 tog ). Work across the two needles of the instep (32 sts). On the fourth needle knit one stitch, slip one as if to knit, replace on left-hand needle, and knit this and next stitch together (Sl1, replace, K2 tog). Round 3. Work the color pattern without decreases. Repeat rounds 2 and 3, following the pattern, until there are 4 less sts than you cast on (in this case 58 [60, 64]). You'll have to fudge a bit while decreasing in color pattern. Aim for making the overall tone of the pattern even. When you get to a solid color stripe, knit with it alone (decreasing every other round until there are 2 less stitches than you cast on) all the way around. Continue knitting until the foot measures 2 3/4" less than the length of the foot that will be wearing the sock. Repeat the second Arrowhead pattern band without stripes. Break off the CC wool and knit two rounds with plain MC, then.. Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until there are 16 sts left, 8 on the bottom of the foot and 8 on top. Work to the end of the first needle.
weave the toe
Place the 8 sts on the top of the foot on one needle. Place the remaining sts on one needle. Slip all the sts once as if to knit, taking out the twist. Hold the needles horizontally in front of you with the yarn tail on your right. Break the yarn leaving a 14" tail and graft the stitches together. Kitchner Stitch (grafing or weaving) http:/www.youtube.com/watch?v=hx1A6nQSLR4
wash your socks!
Add baby shampoo or your favorite wool wash to room temperaturewater. Immerse socks and let soak for 10-20 minutes. Spin dry in the spin cycle of your washing machine or roll in a towel and gently squeeze to remove excess water. Soak again in plain room temperature water, repeat spin (or squeeze), re-shape and dry flat or place on sock blockers.
bibliography
The Mitten Book, Gottfridson & Gotfridson. Lark Books, Asheville, North Carolina. 1984, Print. The Complete Book of Traditional Scandinavian Knitting, Shelia McGregor. St.Martins Press, New York, New York. 1984, Print. Foroysk Bindingarmynstur, Hans M. Debs. Print. Available through www.schoolhousepress.com Knitting in the Nordic Tradition, Vibeke Lind, Lark Books, Asheville, North Carolina. 1984, Print. A Shetland Pattern Book, Mary Smith & Maggie Liddle. The Shetland Times, Ltd, Lerwick, Shetland, Scotland. 1992, Print.
shape the toe
Round 1:Starting at center bottom of foot... 1st. needle: K to last 3 sts, K2 tog (see “INSTEP
At squares marked "X" on the above charts, wrap CC around MC on back to prevent long floats.
About Chart at Right:
This chart details wildflower band for the smallest size. Repeats are shown outlined in black. Begin reading chart from row #1, stitch #1. Read chart from right to left, bottom to top. At 2 3/4" before the foot of the sock reaches desired legnth repeat second Arrowhead Band without stripes, knit 2 rounds in plain MC, then follow instructions for "shape the toe". To enlarge or reduce size add or subtract 1 stitch between eachWildflowermotif.
