Tunisian-Sole Granny Slippers
Carolyn Sawyer Durable, cushiony loafer-style slippers with a decorative top
Origins and copyright: The granny square is based on Chelsea Craft's Poinsettia Hexagon Crochet Slippers pattern, although modified heavily. The rest of the pattern is my own design.
Supplies
●1 H (5.0 mm) crochet hook · Roughly 130 yards (per pair; 65 per slipper) heavy yarn that calls for an H hook; I used a color-variegated Sayelle worsted-weight acrylic
Techniques
I will assume knowledge of basic crochet terms yo (yarn over), sc (single crochet), dc (double crochet), tc (treble crochet), slip stitch, and ch (chain). I use the convention that a chain to start a row counts as the first stitch of the new row. Paired asterisks indicate repeats, e.g. \*this is your repeat unit\*. I will describe and do my best to show pictures for magic loop method and Tunisian simple stitch (TSS) including short rows, increases, decreases, and connecting at the end of rows; prior knowledge of these techniques may come in handy.
Sizing
This slipper was made sizing to a US-women's 8 or 8.5 sized foot, however, there is some stretch in the finished product. Unfortunately I can't offer systematic resizing information, but you can resize in one of two ways: 1) use a different yarn and hook size-do not deviate from the recommended hook size for your yarn, as the TSS needs to be quite tight for the durability of the slipper, but any tighter and it will be very hard to work. 2) Add or remove rows as needed; in particular, size your granny square so it matches the photo below, and add or remove rows in the arches area where the rows are simple. US women's shoe sizes are three full sizes to the inch in footprint-length, and my TSS gauge is roughly 4 rows to the inch, so I would start by adding 2/3 of a row per half-size difference, rounding appropriately, to the arches section.
Instructions
Summary (details to follow)
1. Make a granny square/rectangle that is about the size of the front half of the top of your foot. Mine is slightly elongated along the length of my foot (14 stitches vs. 12). I've included several variations on the granny square at the end of the pattern, all of which result in the same size and number of stitches (Note: three of the above pictures are using the first granny square variation, rather than the basic one). For sizing, add or remove rows until the square covers, but does not overhang, your foot. 2. Use Tunisian simple stitch to make a pouch out of the granny square which you can stick the front half of your foot into. This will involve some increases, decreases and short rows to complete. TSS is self-stitching, in a way, so the pouch shape is easy to make and requires no sewing. 3. Turn 90° and use TSS to make the arches and heels, shaping the sides with increases and turning the heel with short rows and decreases.
Granny Square
1. Begin with a magic loop: holding your working thread in your left hand as normal, loop the loose end up, around, and down, passing behind the working thread. Insert your hook through the loop from front to back, grab the working thread outside the loop, and pull up a small loop onto your hook. See photos:
Brown end of thread goes off towards the skein. White end is the loose end. You don't need much length on the loose end, an inch or so is plenty. 2. Chain 4. Make 17 treble crochet in the magic loop. Pull the loose end to tighten the loop as tight as possible, then slip stitch in the top of the chain 4 to close the loop.
3. Chain 3. Yarn over, insert hook in the same top-of-chain-4, pull up a loop, yo and pull through two loops; repeat, so you should have three loops on the hook; yo, pull through 3 loops. Chain 1. Continue row by: \*yo, insert hook in tc, pull up a loop, yo and pull through two loops\* three times in same tc, then yo and pull through all four loops, chain 1; in each tc around. Slip stitch in top of ch3 to close the ring; you should have 18 bobbledy stitches with ch1 spaces between them. 4. Slip stitch in next two stitches and slip stitch in the ch1 space. Chain 3. 5dc in same ch1 space. 2dc in each of the next 4 ch1 spaces (long side of rectangle). 6dc in next ch1 space, then 2dc in each of the next 3 spaces (short side). 6dc in next space, then 2dc in each of the next 4 spaces (long side). 6dc in next space, then 2dc in each of the next 3 spaces (short side). Slip stitch in top of ch3 to close the ring. Slip stitch in next dc; do not finish off/cut your yarn but proceed directly to the TSS section. Do not even turn the work.
5. Check sizing: the rectangle should sit on your foot as shown.
Granny square sitting on my foot (in a black sock). The square covers the top of my foot, overhanging my pinky toe somewhat, but does not overhang to the sides.
Front Sole
1. Beginning from the third dc in a group of six, at the start of a long side (this should be the next dc from where you finished the last section), insert hook and pull up a loop in each of the next 14 dc. Keep the loops on your hook; you should have 15 loops total on your hook. Insert hook in next dc, pull up a loop, \*yo and pull through two loops\* all the way back, until you have one loop on your hook. This is a row of TSS, although the end of the row that I have described is not quite standard, because we want to attach to the granny square. Note: you should at this point see a bunch of loops standing up with a chain running along their tops. It will probably be trying to curl forward. In Tunisian, you will usually work the next row into the row of front posts, or the front half of each loop, ignoring the chain. As you work subsequent rows, the chain should be pushed from the top to the back, and the row should flatten out/stop curling as much. Don't worry if there is still a fairly strong curl as you work.
2. Beginning from the second post, insert your hook from right to left and pull up a loop from each post until you have 15 loops on your hook. Insert your hook into the last stitch of the previous row and pull up a loop (this is an increase in row length). Insert your hook into the same dc you ended on last time, pull up a loop. \*Yo, pull through two loops\* all the way back.
3. Repeat step 2, increasing the row length as before. You should now have three rows of TSS, each one post longer than the previous row, all ending in the same dc. 4. Beginning from the second post, pull up loops across. You should have 17 loops on your hook. Increase as before by pulling up a loop from the last stitch of the previous row. Insert your hook into the next dc, pull up a loop, and \*yo, pull through two loops\* all thewayback. 5. Repeat step 4, increasing and ending in the same dc. You should now have 5 rows of TSS, ending bunched up in two dc of the corner of the granny square. Sizing: if you are trying to increase the size, or if your granny square is a litle smaller than your foot, you may wish to add another repeat of step 4 here. You will need to match it on the other side, repeating step 12 below.
6. Beginning from the second post, pull up loops across. You should have 19 loops on your hook. Insert hook in next dc, pull up a loop, and \*yo, pull through two loops\* all the way back. You should not be increasing any more. 7. Repeat step 6 four more times. You should have a total of 10 rows of TSS now Note: it is probably easiest to give in to the TSS curl and work “inside-out" for the rest of this section, with the right side of the granny square facing the right side of the TSS, and then flip it after the last step. 8. Add a short row: beginning from the second post, pull up 11 loops, for a total of 12 on the hook. Yo and pull through one loop, then \*yo and pull through two loops\* the rest of the way back. Note: this is the standard way to end free-standing TSS rows. 9. Check sizing: centering the granny square on top of your foot and wrapping the TSS around the side and under your foot, the short row should be about in the center of your foot. It's a little hard to tell at this point, since the slipper does stretch some, but if it is drastically short or long, go back and add or remove rows in steps 2-5. 10. Repeat step 6, pulling up 11 loops from the short row and the next 7 loops from the posts of the previous full row.
11. Repeat step 6 four more times. 12. Beginning from the second post, pull up 17 loops across (18 total on hook). Insert hook in the next post, then in the next dc, and pull up a single loop through both the dc and the post (this is a decrease). As usual, \*yo and pull through two loops\* across. 13. Beginning from the second post, pull up 16 loops across (17 total on hook). Insert hook in the next post, then in the same dc as in the previous row, and pull up a single loop through both. As usual, \*yo and pull through two loops\* across. 14. Beginning from the second post, pull up 15 loops across (16 total on hook). Insert hook in the next post, then in the next dc, and pull up a single loop through both. As usual, \*yo and pull through two loops\* across. 15. Beginning from the second post, pull up 14 loops across (15 total on hook). Insert hook in the next post, then in the same dc as in the previous row, and pull up a single loop through both. As usual, \*yo and pull through two loops\* across. 16. Beginning from the second post, pull up 13 loops across (14 total on hook). Insert hook in the next post, then in the same dc as in the previous two rows, and pull up a single loop through both. With right sides together/slipper inside out, \*insert hook in next dc, yo, pull loop through this dc and the next two loops on hook\* fourteen times, until there is only one loop left on the hook. This should stitch together the third side of the granny square with the TSS section, creating a three-sided pouch. The fourth dc in a group of 6 should be the last one used.
17. Flip the pouch right-side out and check sizing: it should fit snugly, but not tight, on your foot, covering the balls of the feet. Because of the squared-off design, there will be extra space around the smaller toes.
18. Chain one, and turn the work so the wrong side of the TSS (inside sole of the slipper) is facing you. Sc in the ends of the first eight rows of TSS-you will notice that the ends of TSS rows resemble the tops of ordinary crochet stitches. Insert hook in next TSS row end, pull up a loop, insert hook in next row end, pull up another loop, yo and pull through three loops (this is an invisible decrease/invdec). Sc in the next row end, which should be the short row. Invdec (once) in next two row ends, then sc in remaining 8 row ends. Turn work to begin next section.
Back Sole and Heel
1. Beginning with first sc, pull up a loop from each sc across, for a total of 20 loops on hook. Pull up an extra loop from the ch1 off the end of the sc row, for a total of 21 on hook. Yo and pull through one loop, then \*yo and pull through 2 loops\* across. 2. Beginning from the second post, pull up 19 loops across. To properly finish a TSS row, insert hook through both pieces of yarn on the end of the row, rather than just the front post, and pull up a loop. Yo and pull through one loop, then \*yo and pull through two loops\* across.
3. Repeat step 2 four more times. Sizing: this is where you want to do most of your adding or subtracting rows to change the size. 4. To increase on ends, begin with the first post and pull up loops across, pulling a loop through each of the front and back posts on the final stitch separately, for a total of 23 loops on hook. Yo and pull through one loop, then \*yo and pull through two loops\* across as usual. Note: the increase at the end of the row is tricky. I recommend grabbing both strands on the hook as if to end the row normally, then pull the second loop off the hook with your fingers, hanging on to it (see middle picture below) while you pull up the first loop, then pulling up a loop from it. If you can't get the hang of it, you may prefer doing a standard TSS increase in the last stitch: pull up a loop from the chain between the last and second-to-last posts before ending the row as normal.
5. Make three more ordinary TSS rows (as in step 2, but with 23 total loops). 6. Check sizing: the TSS rows should cover your arches now, and the distance from one end of the row to the other going along the row under your foot should be about the same as the distance between those two points measured around the back of your ankle/achilles tendon. If going around your heel is much longer, add another simple row; if going under your foot is much longer, rip one out. 7. Begin shaping the heel: beginning with the first post, pull up 17 loops. Yo and pull through one loop, then \*yo and pull through two loops\* 10 times, to form a short row of 11 total stitches in the center of the main row. Beginning with the second post of the short row, pull up 13 loops. Yo and pull through one loop, then \*yo and pull through two loops\* 16 times, to form a second short row of 17 total stitches. Beginning with the second post of this row, pull up 10 loops. Yo and pull through one loop, then \*yo and pull through two loops\* 4 times to form a third short row of only 5 stitches. Beginning with the second post of this row, pull up 12 loops, and increase at the end as before. Yo and pull through one loop, then \*yo and pull through two loops\* across.
8. Beginning with the second post, pull up 18 loops. Yo and pull through one loop, then \*yo and pull through two loops\* 12 times, creating a short row of 13 stitches. Beginning with the second post of the short row, pull up 15 loops. Yo and pull through one loop, then \*yo and pull through two loops\* 19 times, creating a short row of 19 stitches. Pull up 12 loops, yo and pull through one, \*yo and pull through two\* 6 times, creating a short row of 7 stitches. Pull up loops to the end of the full row and return as usual. 9. Beginning with the second post, pull up 19 loops, yo and pull through one, \*yo and pull through two\* 14 times for a short row of 15 total stitches. Pull up loops to the end of the full row and return as usual. 10. Beginning with the second post, pull up 18, yo and pull through one, \*yo and pull through two\* 12 times for a short row of 13. Pull up 15, yo and pull through one, \*yo and pull through two\* 18 times for a short row of 19. Decrease by inserting hook through next two posts at once and pulling up one loop, pull up one from next post, decrease again the same way; pull up 6, yo and pull through one, \*yo and pull through two\* four times for a short row of 5. Pull up 5, decrease, pull up one, decrease, pull up 4 (this should be the end of the row) and return as normal. 11. Decrease on second and third posts, pull up one, decrease, pull up two, decrease, pull up one (this should be the center of the shoe), decrease, pull up two, decrease; yo and pull through one, \*yo and pull through two\* 8 times for a short row of 9. Pull up 8, decrease, pull up one from the end, and return as usual. 12. Check sizing: you are getting close to the end. The piece should look and fit like a slipper now, and the current row should be more or less horizontal. If the back doesn't cover your heel adequately, or if the row droops in the middle, add more TSS rows with short rows to turn the heel as desired. You may wish to rip out the previous row or two and insert an extra row-with-short-rows before the row(s) with decreases, and then re-do them. 13. Bind off the TSS with ordinary single crochet: decrease by inserting hook in second and third posts, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through two loops to form sc. Sc in next post. Sc decreasing. Sc in next three posts. Sc decreasing. Sc in next post. Sc decreasing. Sc in end of row. 14. Tie off and weave in loose ends. Cut the loose end from the magic loop to a manageable length and weave in ends.
Alternative Granny Squares
The instructions here are admittedly a little terse; see basic granny square instructions above ow to do the magic loop.
Petals Variant
This is what the frst three photos at the top of the pattern are using. 1. Magic loop. Chain 4. 17tc in the magic loop. Slip stitch to close. 2. Chain 3. yo, insert hook in same top-of-ch4, pull up a loop to height of ch3; yo, insert hook in same, pull up a loop to height of ch3; yo, pull through all loops on hook, ch1. In each of the 17 remaining tc, \*yo, insert hook in tc, yo and pull up a loop to working ch3 height\* three times, yo and pull through all loops, ch1. Slip stitch into top of ch3 to finish the ring. 3. Slip stitch in next two stitches and slip stitch in the ch1 space. Chain 3. 5dc in same ch1 space. 2dc in each of the next 4 ch1 spaces (long side of rectangle). 6dc in next ch1 space, then 2dc in each of the next 3 spaces (short side). 6dc in next space, then 2dc in each of the next 4 spaces (long side). 6dc in next space, then 2dc in each of the next 3 spaces (short side). Slip stitch in top of ch3 to close the ring. Slip stitch in next dc and you are ready to begin the sole.
Lacy Mandala
1. Magic loop, ch4, \*ch1 tc\* eight times, ch1 and slip stitch to close the ring. 2. Ch3, dc in same top-of-ch4, \*ch2, 2dc in next tc\* eight times, ch2 and slip stitch to close the ring. 3. Ch3, 2dc in same top-of-ch3, 3dc in next dc. \*2dc in next ch2 space, 2dc in second dc of next pair\* twice. 6dc in next ch2 space. 2dc in second dc of next pair, 2dc in next space, 2dc in second dc of next pair. 6dc in next space. \*2dc in next space, 2dc in second dc of next pair\* twice. 3dc in each of next two dc. 2dc in next space, 2dc in second dc of next pair, 2dc in next space, slip stitch to close the ring. Slip stitch in next dc and you are ready to start the sole.
Stonehenge Bobbles
1. Magic loop, ch4, 17tc, and slip stitch to close the ring. 2. Turn the work. Slip stitch in place, \*dtc in next tc, 2 slip stitches in next tc\* eight times, dtc, slip stitch to close the ring (dtc/double treble crochet is like a tc but with one more yo at the start; use tc for smaller bobbles). Each dtc should crumple down behind the work when you make the next slip stitch, forming a bobble on the right side. The second slip stitch in each pair is a little awkward, but adds just enough length to keep the piece flat. 3. Turn the work. Ch2, hdc in same slip stitch, \*2hdc in next dtc, 2hdc in second slip stitch of next pair\* eight times, 2hdc in final bobble and slip stitch to close the ring. (hdc/half-double crochet: yo, insert hook and pull up a loop, yo and pull through all three loops on hook). 4. Turn the work. \*Slip stitch in next hdc, tc in next hdc\* around and slip stitch to close the ring. Single slip stitches should be fine in this row as long as you keep them fairly loose, but if your piece starts doming up go back and do two slip stitches.
5. Ch1 and turn the work. Slip stitch in next tc and ch 3; 5dc in same tc. 2dc in next 4 tc, skipping the slip stitches. 6 dc in next tc. 2dc in next three tc. 6dc in next tc. 2dc in next 4 tc. 6dc in next tc. 2dc in next 3 tc and slip stitch to close the ring. Slip stitch in next dc and you are ready to begin the sole.
Galaxy Cables
1. Magic loop, ch2, 8 hdc, and slip stitch to close the ring. Note: you may want to leave the magic loop a little loose until you have done the nect row, and tighten it up later. 2. Ch2, \*dc around the post of the next hdc in the magic loop, hdc in the top of the same hdc\* 8 times, dc in final post, and slip stitch to close. Note: these are standard crochet posts, i.e. the whole upright section of the stitch, not to be confused with TSS posts. See images if you are confused.
3. Ch2, \*tc around the post of next dc, hdc in top of next two stitches\* eight times, tc around the remaining post, hdc, and slip stitch to close. 4. Ch1, 2sc, \*tc around the post of next tc, sc in next three stitches\* eight times, tc around the remaining raised post, and slip stitche to close. 5. Ch3, dc in same stitch, dtc around next post. 3dc in next stitch, dc in next two stitches. Dtc around next post, skip one stitch and dc in next three stitches. Dtc around next post, skip one and dc in next stitch. 3dc in each of next two stitches. Dtc around net post, skip one and dc in next three, dtc around next post, skip one and dc in next stitch. 3dc in each of next two stitches. \*Dtc in next post, skip one and dc in next three stitches\* twice. Dc in next stitch, dtc around next post, and dc in the same sc as the previous dc. 3dc in next stitch. Dc in next two stitches, dtc in next post, skip one and dc in next three stitches. Slip stitch to close, slip stitch in next dc and you are ready to begin the sole. Note: this is the same basic stitch as the crochet cable, although I have not done any braiding. The long stitches should be raised in front and form a clean spiral; if you want a looser or tighter spiral or a zig-zag feel free to move the long stitches within a row, conserving the total number of stitches in each row and making sure the final ring has four corners made of three stitches worked into each of two stitches, separated by eight stitches on the long sides and sic on the short sides. You may want to reverse the spiral for the other slipper in your pair; I will leave this as an ecercise to the reader.
