Jake by Jodie Gordon Lucas Every sock knitter has it—-an ever-growing stash of leftover sock yarn. If ever there was yarn with a personality, it's this motley collection of (ahem) cast-offs. It whines “I'm so pretty, please use me." It nags: “Don't you love me anymore?" It mocks: “"Ha! I cost a small fortune and I'll never be used." If the voices of abandoned sock yarns have filled your head for far too long, then Jake is the snake for you. Jake is a snake with attitude and sass. Jake is a snake that nourishes the creativity of even the most jaded adult. Most importantly, if you make Jake with remnant yarn he's not only quirky and charming, he's free! The inspiration for Jake came from an episode of the BBC comedy Coupling called “Jane and the Truth Snake". The relevant clips can be found on You Tube--but be aware that while Jake is for all ages his inspiration is most definitely for adults only.
TECHNIQUES USED
Provisional cast on, short rows, wrapped stitches, crochet and grafting with Kitchener Stitch SIZE one size
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
4 inches by 18 inches (excluding tongue).
MATERIALS
As written, Jake uses approximately 1 part CC to 4 parts MC. If, like Bright Jake, the remnants you're using don't meet the 1:4 ratio then experiment with stripes, contrasting cuff, or patterns on Jake's body as your yarn allows. Blue Jake [MC] Schoeller $^+$ Stall Fortissima Colori Socka Color $[75\%$ superwash wool, $25\%$ nylon; 229 yds/ 210 m per 50g skein]; color 9099; 1 skein. 36 g used. [CC] YarnArt Wool $[80\%$ Wool, $20\%$ microfiber; 371 yds/339 m per 100g skein]; Navy; 1 skein. 10 g used. This yarn is discontinued. Knitpicks Stroll Sock Yarn is a good substitute. BrightJake [MC] Knit Picks Stroll Hand Painted Sock Yarn $[75\%$ Superwash Merino Wool;462 yds/420 m per 100g skein]; color Cartoons; 1 skein. 31 g used. [CC] Brown Sheep Yarn Company Cotton Fine $[80\%$ Pima Cotton, 20% Wool: 222 yds /203 m per 50 g skein]; color CW310 Wild Orange; 1 skein. 14 g used. Monster Jake Monster Jake used approximately 55 g of yarn in 11 different colors. [MC]—-ball created from a variety of popular multi-colored yarns that work to stitch gauge. [CC]—-ball created from a variety of popular solid colored yarns that work to stitch gauge. 1 set US #1/2.25mm double-point needles 1 US #1/2.25 mm long circular needle for magic loop method OR 2 US #1 #1/2.25 mm circular needles for two-circulars method I used 1 circular to make the mouth sections and body; dpns as stitch holders, for grafting and working the tongue and eyes. While it's possible to make Jake with one set of needles for knitting in the round and a couple stitch holders, you'll find it much more convenient to have multiple types of needles on hand. scrap yarn, crochet hook, 2 buttons, needle, small amount of fiberfill, chopstick or similar diameter dowel rod, stitch markers, stitch holders (optional), and thread. For puppet theater you will also need: 2 tension style curtain rods; and 2, 2.25 yard lengths of sturdy fabric (such as denim or twill) in contrasting colors.
GAUGE
All yarns had a stitch gauge of 38 stitches per 4 inches when worked in the round. The most important consideration for gauge is not getting “38 st per 4 inches" but that all yarns work to the same stitch gauge--regardless of what that is. Row gauge ranged from 48 to 51 stitches per inch.
PATTERN NOTES
SL: Slip stitch. Stitches are to be slipped purlwise unless otherwise indicated. Hold the yarn behind the work on right side rows and in front of the work for wrong side rows. NTW: Needle through wrap(s). Take yarn to the front for a wrong side row, to the back for a right side row. Take your right needle to the right side of your work (even if you're working a wrong side row). From the bottom, insert the right needle through the wrap(s) at the base of the stitch. With the right needle in this position, work the wrapped stitch as directed in the pattern. The wraps will be sandwiched between the resulting stitch and the previous stitch. PWLO: Pass Wrapped Loop(s) over stitch just worked. PSSO or PSO: Pass Slipped Stitch Over / Pass Stitch Over. Second stitch on the right needle is lifted over the first stitch and off the needle. PSsO is standard terminology. PSO does not presume the stitch being passed was originally slipped. PUNK: Pick Up aNd Knit. 3x9 rib round: [p3, k9] 6 times. 1x5 rib round: k1, p1, [k5, p1] repeat 10 more times, k4. M 1: Make one stitch. Preferred method is to lift the bar between two stitches onto the left needle and knit it through the back loop. To work a wrap and turn: bring yarn forward. Slip the stitch to be wrapped from left needle to the right, take the yarn behind work and return the stitch to its original position. Turn work. When making a Monster Jake alternate rows of MC and CC when working in the round. Do not break yarn after each row. To avoid a gap at the beginning of the round: 1) hold new yarn to the right of the needle; 2) drop the current yarn over the new yarn and hold it to the left of the needle; 3) pick up the new yarn and work the first stitch of the round; 4) gently tug the old yarn towards the right to adjust tension between the last stitch with the old yarn and the first stitch with the new yarn.
PATTERN Tongue
Using CC and a long-tail cast on, cast on 30 sts. Row 1[Tongue is reversible]: Bind off 3 st, k26 to end, turn. Row 2: Sl 1, k26, turn. Row 3: K27, turn. Row 4 -5: Rep rows 2-3. Row 6: Sl 1, k26, cast on 3 sts with a knitted cast on, turn. Row 7: Knit 30 sts, turn. Bind off all stitches but do not break yarn. Insert crochet hook into the remaining loop and ch 1. SC 10 sts along narrow edge of the tongue between the two points of the fork. Break yarn and pull the end through final loop. Weave in ends. Set aside until mouth sections are completed.
Mouth section (make 2) do not break MC yarn after completing second mouth section.
Using the provisional cast on method of your choice, CO 30 sts with CC. Row 1[WS]: P30, turn. Row 2[RS]: K29, wrap next st and turn. Row 3[WS]:P28, wrap next st and turn, 28 sts between wraps, turn. Row 4[RS]: K28, turn. Row 5[WS]:Sl 1, p27, turn. Row 6[RS]: Sl 1, k26, wrap next st and turn. Row 7[WS]:P26, wrap 1 st. 26 sts between wraps, turn. Row 8[RS]: K26, turn. Row 9[WS]:Sl 1, p25, turn. Row 1o[Rs]: Sl 1, k24, wrap next st and turn. Row 11[WS]:P24, wrap 1 st. 24 sts between wraps, turn. Row 12[RS]: K24, turn. Row 13[WS]:Sl1, p23, turn. Row 14[RS]: Sl 1, k22, wrap next st and turn. Row 15[WS]:P22, wrap 1 st. 22 sts between wraps, turn. Row 16[RS]: K22, turn. Row 17[WS]:Sl1, p21, turn. Row 18[RS]: Sl 1, k20, wrap next st and turn. Row 19[WS]:P20, wrap 1 st. 20 sts between wraps, turn. Row 20[RS]: K20, turn. Row 21[WS]:Sl1, p19, turn. Row 22[RS]: Sl 1, k18, wrap next st and turn. Row 23[WS]:P18, wrap 1 st. 18 sts between wraps, turn. Row 24[RS]: K18, turn. Row 25[WS]:Sl 1, p17, turn. Row 26[RS]: Sl 1, k16, wrap next st and turn. Row 27[WS]: P16, wrap 1 st. 16 sts between wraps, turn. Row 28[RS]: K16, turn. Row 29[WS]: Sl 1, p15, turn. Row 3o[RS]: Sl 1, k14, wrap next st and turn. Row 31[WS]: P14, wrap 1 st. 14 sts between wraps, turn. Row 32[RS]: K14, turn. Row 33[WS]: Sl1, p13, turn. Row 34[RS]: Sl 1, k12, wrap next st and turn. Row 35[WS]: P12, wrap 1 st. 12 sts between wraps, turn. Row 36[RS]: K12, turn. Row 37[WS]: Sl1, p11, turn. Row 38[RS]: Sl 1, k10, wrap next st and turn. Row 39[WS]: P10, wrap 1 st. 10 sts between wraps, turn. Row 40[RS]: K10, turn. Break CC yarn, begin working with MC Row 41[WS]: P10, NTW, p1, PWLO, turn. Row 42[RS]: PUNK slipped stitch on edge before next wrapped st, k11, NTW, k1, PWLO, PUNK slipped stitch on edge before next wrapped st, turn. 14 sts between wraps. Row 43[WS]: Sl 1, p11, p2tog, wrap next st, turn. Row 44[RS]: K11, k2tog, wrap next st, turn. 12 sts between wraps. Row 45[WS]: P12, NTW, p1, PWLO, turn. Row 46[RS]: PUNK slipped stitch on edge before next wrapped st, k13, NTW, k1, PWLO, PUNK slipped stitch on edge before next wrapped st, turn. 16 sts between wrapped wraps Row 47[Ws]: Sl 1, p13, p2tog, wrap next st, turn. Row 48[RS]: K13, k2tog, wrap next st, turn. 14 sts between wraps. Row 49[WS]: P14, NTW, p1, PWLO, turn. Row 5o[RS]: PUNK slipped stitch on edge before next wrapped st, k15, NTW, k1, PWLO, PUNK slipped stitch on edge before next wrapped st, turn. 18 sts between wraps. Row 51[WS]: Sl 1, p15, p2tog, wrap next st. Turn Row 52[RS]: K15, k2tog, wrap next st, turn. 16 sts between wraps. Row 53[WS]: P16, NTW, p1, PWLO, turn. Row 54[RS]: PUNK slipped stitch on edge before next wrapped st, k17, NTW, k1, PWLO, PUNK slipped stitch on edge before next wrapped st, turn. 20 sts between wraps Row 55[WS]: Sl 1, p17, p2tog, wrap next st. Turn Row 56[RS]:K17, k2tog, wrap next st, turn. 18 sts between wraps. Row 57[WS]: P18, NTW, p1, PWLO, turn. Row 58[RS]: PUNK slipped stitch on edge before next wrapped st, k19 st, NTW, k1, PWLO, PUNK slipped stitch on edge before next wrapped st, turn. 22 sts between wraps. Row 59[Ws]: Sl 1, p19, p2tog, wrap next st, turn. Row 6o[RS]:K19, k2tog, wrap next st, turn. 20 sts between wraps. Row 61[WS]: P20, NTW, p1, PWLO, turn. Row 62[RS]: PUNK slipped stitch on edge before next wrapped st, k21, NTW, k1, PWLO, PUNK slipped stitch on edge before next wrapped st, turn. 24 sts between wraps. Row 63[WS]: Sl 1, p21, p2tog, wrap next st, turn. Row 64[RS]: K21, k2tog, wrap next st, turn. 22 sts between wraps. Row 65[WS]: P22, NTW, p1, PWLO, turn. Row 66[RS]: PUNK slipped stitch on edge before next wrapped st, k23, NTW, k1, PWLO, PUNK slipped stitch on edge before next wrapped st, turn. 26 sts between wraps. Row 67[WS]: Sl 1, p23, p2tog, wrap next st, turn. Row 68[RS]: K23, k2tog, wrap next st, turn. 24 sts between wraps. Row 69[WS]: P24, NTW, p1, PWLO, turn. Row 7o[RS]: PUNK slipped stitch on edge before next wrapped st, k25, NTW, k1, PWLO, PUNK slipped stitch on edge before next wrapped st, turn. 28 sts between wraps. Row 71[Ws]: Sl 1, p25, p2tog, wrap next st, turn. Row 72[RS]: K25, k2tog, wrap next st, turn. 26 sts between wraps. Row 73[WS]: P26, NTW, p1, PWLO, turn. Row 74[RS]: PUNK slipped stitch on edge before next wrapped st, k27, NTW, k1, PWLO, PUNK slipped stitch on edge before next wrapped st, turn. 30sts between wraps. Row 75[WS]: Sl 1, p27, p2tog, wrap next st, turn. Row 76[RS]:K27, k2tog, wrap next st, turn. 28 sts between wraps. Row 77[WS]: P28, NTW, p1, PWLO, turn. Row 78[RS]: Sl 1, k28 st, NTW, k1, PWLO. 30 sts between wraps. To assemble the mouth Place CC stitches of one mouth section onto a needle. Pick up 4 sts along the unforked, narrow end of the tongue with a second needle. As you're just slipping them onto the needle, not knitting them, you can use the tip of a stitch holder if you've opted to make Jake with a single circular needle. Using a third needle and beginning 3 feet from the end of the CC yarn (this length of yarn will be used for grafting later), k13 of the mouth sts. Insert the needle through the back loop of the first stitch on the tongue and the front loop of one stitch of the mouth. Knit these two stitches together. Repeat this process for the remaining 3 st on the tongue, k13 sts. Break yarn. Place CC stitches of the second mouth section onto a needle. Hold the two needles of CC stitches with wrong sides together. The MC portions of the mouth will be sandwiched between the needles and the tongue will not be sandwiched between them. Graft these 30 sts with Kitchener stitch. Secure yarn and break.
Body
With MC still attached to the mouth, pick up 3 sts along the CC edge of the mouth, pm, pick up 3 more sts, k30, pick up 3 sts along the CC edge of the mouth, pm, pick up 3 more sts, k33. At this point determine which side of your puppet will be the top. K to marker immediately following the top, k18, pm. This is your start of round marker. Work in the round in stockinette for 1 inch. Round 1: K21, p12, k6, p12, k21. Round 2-5: K22, p1, k8, p1, k8, p1, k8, p1, k22. Round 6-7: K23, p1, k6, p1, k10, p1, k6, p1, k23. Round 8-9: K24, p1, k4, p1, k12, p1, k4, p1, k24. Round 10: K24, p6, k12, p6, k24. If preferred, you can work the previous 10 rounds using two repeats of the Eye Chart provided in the next section. The two side markers are no longer needed. You can remove them. Work in stockinette for 3 inches. Work in 3x9 rib for 3 inches. Work in 1x5 rib for 1 inch. Work in stockinette stitch for 1 inch. Work in 1x5 rib for 1 inch. Work in 3x9 rib for 3 inches. Work in stockinette stitch for .75 inch. On final round: [k3, m 1] around. Bind off loosely.
Eye (make two).
EYE CHART
Before beginning eye, run a thread in a contrasting color under odd numbered purl bumps on the right and even numbered purl bumps on the left side of the eye location. This will make it easier to locate their position when working the eye. With Jake's mouth toward you and using CC, PUNK 12 sts in purl bumps “a" through “1" (see Eye Chart), turn. Row 1[WS]: Knit 12 sts, turn. Drop CC. Row 2[RS]: Sl 2. Using MC, k8. PUNK 1 st at the base of and behind the 2 remaining CC sts on the needle, turn. Row 3[WS]: P9. Pick up and purl 1 st at the base of and behind the 2 remaining CC stitches on the needle, turn. Row 4[RS]: K10, turn. Row 5[WS]: P10, turn. Row 6[RS]: K10, turn. Row 7[WS]: P10, slip two CC stitches. Break MC leaving a 12 inch tail. Row 8[RS]: With CC k14 sts. Row 9[WS]: Rep row 8. Row 10[RS]: K14 sts, PUNK 1 st in the side of the CC sts along left side of the eye, turn. Row 11[WS]: Sl 1, p14, turn. Row 12[RS]: PUNK 1 st in the side of the CC sts along right side of the eye k15, turn. Row 13[WS]: P16, turn. At this point, thread a needle with the tail of the MC. Working on the wrong side and being careful not to tangle with the working CC yarn, place a stitch or two along the edge of the MC edge securing it to the CC slipped stitches. Weave the yarn along the back of the eye until you get to the center. Sew on a button in this position. Continue weaving the yarn to the other side of the eye and connect the edge of the MC stitches to the CC stitches. Secure yarn. Continue working eye. For rows 14 to 30 refer to Eye Chart for the location of numbered stitches. Row 14[RS]: PUNK in purl bump #1 (see chart). Sl 1, PSO, k14, sl 1, PUNK in purl bump #2, PSSO, turn. Row 15[WS]: P16 sts, turn. Row 16[RS]: PUNK in purl bump #3 (see chart). Sl 1, PSO, k14, sl 1, PUNK in purl bump #4, PSSO, turn. Row 17[WS]: P16 sts, turn. Row 18[RS]: PUNK in purl bump #5 (see chart). Sl 1, PSO, k14, sl 1, PUNK in purl bump $\#6$ , PSSO, turn. Row 19[WS]: P16 sts, turn. Row 2o[RS]: PUNK in purl bump #7 (see chart). Sl 1, PSO, k14, sl 1, PUNK in purl bump $\#8$ , PSSO, turn. Row 21[WS]: P16 sts, turn. Row 22[RS]: PUNK in purl bump $\#9$ (see chart). Sl 1, PSO, k4, ssk, k2, k2tog, k4, sl 1, PUNK in purl bump #10 , PSSO, turn. Row 23[WS]: P14 sts, turn. Row 24[RS]: PUNK in purl bump #11 (see chart). Sl 1, PSO, k3, ssk, k2, k2tog, k3, sl 1, PUNK in purl bump #12 , PSSO, turn. Row 25[WS]: P12 sts, turn. Row 26[RS]: PUNK in purl bump #13 (see chart). Sl 1, PSO, k2, ssk, k2, k2tog, k2, sl 1, PUNK in purl bump #14, turn. Row 27[WS]: P10 sts, turn. Row 28[RS]: PUNK in purl bump #15 (see chart). Sl 1, PSO, k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1, sl 1, PUNK in purl bump #16, turn. Row 29[WS]: P8 sts, turn. At this point, firmly stuff the eye with fiberfill. Use a dowel or a chopstick to compress the stuffing into the eye. Remove the thread marking sides of eye. Continue working the eye. Row 3O[RS]: K1, PUNK st “m", PSO, ssk, PUNK st “n", PSO, bind off 1; k1, PUNK st “o", PSO, bind off 1; k1, PUNK st “p", PSO, bind off 1; k2tog, PUNK st “q", PSO, bind off 1; k1, PUNK st "r", PsO, bind off last stitch. Break yarn and secure.
FINISHING
Weave in and trim all ends and Jake is ready to play.
PUPPET THEATER CONSTRUCTION
It is easy to make a puppet theatre with 2, 2.25 yard lengths of sturdy fabric such as denim or twill and 2 tension style curtain rods. Select fabrics in contrasting colors. If you're feeling particularly creative you can decorate the fabrics to create a more elaborate stage. Hang the first rod in a doorway 4o inches from the floor. Hang the second rod 6o inches from the floor. Fold each length of fabric in half and drape over each rod. Be sure the fabric hanging from the higher rod is draped on the “backstage" side of the theatre. Throw a few pillows onto the floor on each side of the curtain (for the audience and for the puppeteer's knees) and it's show time!!
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Dear Knitter, I want everyone to know that Jodie is a fraud. She sssays she designed me but she's deluding herself. I took possession of her brain for 48 gloriousss hours and guided her needles. Once I was sssatisfied that I was perfect (and had watched all the Muppetsss I could stand) I released her brain—no more sssneaky dreams about how to make the perfect eye! Ssspeaking of the perfect eye-I've gotta thank my buddy Sheldon and his creator Ruth Homrighaus. Without your innovative shell technique, I'd be BLIND. Lotsss of love, Jake
Pattern and images $\copyright$ 2010 Jodie Gordon Lucas
