Freckle Flippy Skirt Pattern: A Knitting Guide for Girls' Sizes 2-12 with Customizable Options

Freckle Flippy Skirt

Designed and written by Heather Johnson

SECTION 1: Getting Started

For those familiar with the Freckle Soaker/Skirty Pattern and the Freckle Bottoms Pattern, please note, this Flippy Skirt pattern will be a bit less detailed than those 2 patterns. The Flippy Skirt is a simpler and more specific pattern with less customizable options, so it stands to reason, less options/details will be needed for the pattern's execution. I will still try to make sure there are as few question points as possible and will still have pattern support available like with my previous patterns. Before casting on, please read through the Getting Started and Pattern Overview Sections thoroughly, as doing so will likely answer questions you may run into while working the pattern, as well as get you started off on the right foot. The pattern includes explicit instructions for girls′ sizes 2-4, 4-6, 6-8, 8-10, and 10-12, as well as customizable suggestions for any gauge/size.

SIZES:

GAUGE

5.25 stitches per inch in stockinette stitch

Required Materials NEEDLES/HOOKS

Size 7, 16" or 24" Circular Needle (or size needed to get gauge.) Size 5, 16" Circular Needle (or 2 sizes smaller than needed for gauge) ?Darning Needle 4.5-5.0 mm Crochet Hook for Bind-off and for crocheted in elastic waist (optional)

OPTIONAL:

Elastic Sewing Thread

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YARN:

75% Superwash Merino Wool, 25% Nylon; 218 yd per 50g ball]; 2\* (3, 4, 5, 6) ball \*This is the bare minimum needed for a size 2-4. If your gauge is off even a litle bit, you will have to make your skirt slightly shorter or you will run out of yarn in your bind-off. I have knit all of my 2-4 skirts using just 2 balls, but if you would like some room for error, use a coordinating solid for your waistband or buy an extra ball of yarn. (All other size/yarn estimates are generous!) Sock yarn is held double stranded throughout. You can substitute any fingering/sock weight yarn, light weight worsted, or DK weight yarn. You will want to get a fabric with a nice drape, and the pattern is written at a gauge of 5.25 spi. Or, you can use any weight of yarn and calculate your own stitch counts. Superwash wool is nice for ease of care, but not an absolute necessity.

SECTION 2: Calculations for a Customized Garment

(A) Cast On/Waist: (Waist x Gauge)-4) (rounded to be divisible by 4) (B) Hips: (Hips x Gauge (rounded to be divisible by 4)) (C) 1%4 Hips: (B/4) (D) Length before flip: (Length of Skirt - 2") (E) # of stitches after 1" flip increase: (B+ desired number of increased stitches (1/2-1/3 of total B Stitches)) (F) # of stitches after 2nd flip increase: (E+ desired number of increased stitches (1/3-1/4 of total E Stitches))

SECTION 3: Bottoms Pattern Overview

Architecture

The Flippy Skirt is knit from the waist down. It starts with a 2x2 rib, increases to the appropriate hip stitch count, continues in stockinette to nearly the desired length, inserting 1-2 short rows in the upper hips, flares a bit at the bottom, then ends with garter stitch and a double crochet bind off.

Some additional details:

All stitch counts listed assume the 2-4 size. The other sizes are in parenthesis (4-6, 6-8, 8-10, 10-12, Custom). It is suggested that you print out this pattern, go through and highlight the correct (or cross out allthe wrong values) to help prevent using the wrong #s. For all techniques/stitches, please use your favorite knitting reference to determine a method to use to create the stitch. My favorites are www.knittinghelp.com, Debbie Stoller's Stitch 'n Bitch, and Vogue Knitting's The Ultimate Guide toKnitting.

Techniques/Stitches used:

'url), KFAB (Knit front and back), Double Crochet Bind Off, M1R (Make One Righ

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SECTION 4: The Pattern

Waist

Using a long tail cast on and your 16" circular needle 2 sizes smaller than that used to get gauge, cast on 96 (100, 112, 116, 120, A) stitches. Place marker (this will be your CBM (Center Back Marker) for the remainder of the project) and join into a round being careful not to twist the stitches.

Setup Hips

Switch to gauge needle and increase evenly around to your hip count. Use a 16" circular for sizes 2-6 and a 24"' circular for sizes 6-12. The row will work as follows: Size 2-4: \*K5, KFAB\* around Size 4-6: \*K4, KFAB\* around Size 6-8: \*K4, KFAB, K4, KFAB, K5, KFAB, K5, KFAB, K5, KFAB\* around Size 8-10: \*K3, KFAB, K4, KFAB, K4, KFAB, K4, KFAB, K4, KFAB, K4, KFAB\* around Size 10-12: \*K2, KFAB, K3, KFAB, K3, KFAB, K3, KFAB\* around Custom: Increase evenly around to desired number of stitches. Please email me if you'd like help with this. You should now have 112 (120, 132, 140, 152, -_B) stitches on your needles.

Hips and Body

Knit one round. Knit 28 (30, 33, 35, 38, C), place marker “RHM" for right hip, Knit 56 (60, 66, 70, 76, Cx2), place marker "LHM for left hip, Knit 28 (30, 33, 35, 38, C), Knit 28 (30, 33, 35, 38, __C) to end of round. (Note: When knitting a skirt top down, when your knitting is in your hands, your RHM (right hip marker) is to the left of the CBM (center back marker) and your LHM (left hip marker) is to the right of the CBM.) Knit to 3 1/2' from cast on edge. IncertShortRou Knit to 1 stitch before RHM, wrap and turn, purl back past CBM to 1 stitch before LHM, wrap and turn, knit around making sure to pick up your wraps Knit to 4 3/4' from cast on edge. Knit to 3 stitches before RHM, wrap and turn, purl back past CBM to 3 stitches before LHM, wrap and turn, knit around making sure to pick up your wraps nit to 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, _D) inches from cast on edge, inserting 0(1, 1, 2, 2) more short rows spaced about an inch apart from each other as you go. Work an increase row. Size 2-4, 4-6: \*K3, M1R\* around. Size 6-8, 8-10, 10-12: \*K2, M1R\* around Size 2-4: \*K4,M1R\* Size 4-6, 6-8,8-10, 10-12: \*K3, M1R\* around You should now have 186 (213, 264, 280, 304, __F) stitches on your needles. Knit to 9 %4 (10 3%4, 11 34, 12 34, 13 34, —(Length of Skirt- /4")) inches from cast on edge. Purl 1 row Knit 1 row Purl 1 row Bind off using a Double Crochet Bind off. (If you do not have a crochet hook, you can use a knit bind off just make sure you bind off loosely.)

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Finishing Waistband

You can now create a drawstring and weave it through your waistband if desired. Or, as mentioned in the materials section, you can crochet elastic sewing thread into the waistband. To do this, take you elastic thread and a 4.5-5.0mm crochet hook and join the thread inside of the skirt in the back center of the waistband about 1/2 inch below the cast on edge, using a slip stitch. You will join to a knit stitch on the inside (or what would have been a purl stitch on the right side.） Then, using a slip stitch, work into one leg of each knit stitch of the inside of the ribbing all the way around the waist. Make sure to keep your tension fairly loose. When you reach the beginning of your round, slip stitch down the row of knit stitches you started on about an inch and repeat the process about 1 1/2' below the cast on edge. Finish off and weave in the elastic thread, making sure to secure it very well. (A Picture Tutorial for this will soon be available.)

Finishing

1.Your Skirt is now finished. 2.Weave in your ends. 3.Wash and wear. (I machine wash Felici on gentle, then toss in the dryer for about 10 minutes on low. Then, I pull the skirt out and block and lay flat to dry the remainder of the way. For other yarns, follow regular washing instructions for that particular yarn.)

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