Overlapping Leaves Toe Up Sock Guidelines
By Lynn Wiemelt
These socks are for a ladies size 8-9 (US) shoe size. You can increase or decrease the size of the sock by going up or down 1 needle size. Keep in mind, that these guidelines are not written in stone. Change the toe if you want to do a short row toe. Change the heel if you don't think you willike the one I did. As I said, these are more guidelines. Yarn Used: KPPPM, or your favorite sock weight yarn. Needles: Addi Turbo Circular Needles, Size 2 Cast on 12 stitches on each needle using your favorite cast on method for toe up socks. Row 1: Knit around. Row 2: K1, M1 (in your favorite method), K to next to last stitch, M1, K1. Repeat these 2 rows until you have 24 stitches on each needle. K12 stitches, M1, K 12 stitches on both needles so that you have 25 stitches on each needle. Begin the “Falling Leaves" pattern stitch on the top of the foot, continue in st-st on the bottom of the foot (K every row). Pattern Stitch-Multiples of 12 stitches $+1$ ,12 rows. Row 1- K1, $\mathsf{\star}_{\mathsf{M}1}$ ,SKP (Slip 1 stitch, Knit 1 stitch, pass slipped stitch over), K4, K2tog, K3, M1, K1, M1, K3, SKP, K4, K2tog, M1, K1, repeat from \* to end. Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12-Knit around. Row 3-K1,\*M1, K1, SKP, K2, K2tog, K4, M1, K1, M1, K4, SKP, K2, K2tog, K1, M1, K1, repeat from \* to end. Row 5-K1,\*M1, K2, SKP, K2tog, K5, M1, K1, M1, K5, SKP, K2tog, K2, M1, K1, repeat from around. Row 7-K1, \*M1, K3, SKP, K4, K2tog, M1, K1, M1, SKP, K4, K2tog, K3, M1, K1, repeat from \* around. Row 9-K1, \*M1, K4, SKP, K2, K2tog, K1, M1, K1, M1, K1, SKP, K2, K2tog, K4, M1, K1, repeat from \* around. Row 11-K1, $\star_{\mathsf{M}1}$ ,K5, SKP, K2tog, K2, M1, K1, M1, K2, SKP, K2tog, K5, M1, K1, repeat from \* around. Work 4 rounds of pattern before starting heel gusset. Hints-I used a stitch marker and moved it with every row. For example, on the first row, I put it after the $1^{\mathrm{st}}$ stitch. On the second row of the pattern, I moved it to after the $2^{\mathsf{n d}}$ stitch, and'so forth. That way I could put the work down and know which row I needed to start on. Also, ! used this little graph to keep track of it too. You can also use it for the rounds from the ankle to the cuff.
Gusset Increases While working the gusset increases, make sure you continue in the established pattern on the top of the foot. You will be increasing to 16 stitches on each side of heel stitches. I found it easiest to make the gusset increases on the rounds that had pattern stitches (ie: 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11) so that the K rows were just that. Also, I placed markers to indicate the 25 heel stitches to keep them separated from the gusset stitches. Row 1 of gusset increases, worked on heel stitches only: K1, M1, Knit across to last stitch, M1, K1. Row 2 of gusset increases: K These are some notes I did while I worked this pattern. On the top of the foot, it ended up being 2 rounds of pattern increases completely. Then on the $3^{r d}$ round of pattern, Row 1 of pattern, ended up being the last gusset increase. I worked rows 2-6 without increasing gusset stitches. On row 7 of the pattern, I worked the top of the foot and then "held" those needles while I did the heel turn and heel flap. Heel Turn-You willonly be working on the heel stitch needle at this time, not working in the round. Row 1: K 40 stitches, W&T last stitch. Row 2: P 23 stitches, W&T last stitch. Row 3: K 22 stitches, W&T Row 4: P 21 stitches, W&T Row 5: K 20 stitches, W&T Row 6: P 19 stitches, W&T Row 7: K 18 stitches, W&T Row 8: P 17 stitches, W&T Row 9: K 16 stitches, W&T Row 10: P15 stitches, W&T Row 11: K 14 stitches, W&T Row 12: P 13 stitches, W&T Row 13: K12 stitches, W&T Row 14: P 11 stitches, W&T Row 15: K 10 stitches, W&T Row 16: P 9 stitches, W&T Knit across heel row, picking up and knitting wraps, knit gusset stitches, continue in pattern on top of foot, knit gusset stitches, knit across heel picking up and knitting the other half f wras. Continue around until you are at the heel stitches and then we will pick up the gusset stitches. Row 1 of heel flap: Sl 1, K1 across to last stitch of heel. SSK last stitch of heel flap $\&\ 1^{\circ{\mathrm{t}}}$ stitch of gusset stitches. Turn. Row 2 of heel flap: Purl across to last stitch, Purl last heel stitch and first gusset stitch together. Turn. Repeat these 2 rows until all gusset stitches have been picked up on the left side of the heel and 1 gusset stitch is remaining on the right side of the heel. You will work this stitch when you do your first round. Resume knitting in the round, keeping established pattern. When you get to the heel needle, begin the row by knitting the gusset stitch and the first heel stitch together WHILE AT THE SAME TIME beginning the pattern (on the same row that you are on at the top of the foot) stitch for the back of the sock. For example-lf you just did row 9 on the top of the foot, then do row 9 on thebackof theleg. Once you are back on Row 1 of the pattern, work 4 complete rounds of the pattern before binding off. Bind off using your favorite, stretchy bind off. I used the picot bind off as follows: Using cable cast on, cast on 2 stitches to the left needle, bind off 3 stitches, move the 1 stitch from the right needle to the left and repeat the process across the entire sock. Make your second sock and you are done! Words of wisdom (after the fact): 1) This pattern has only been knit by me, if you find errors, please let me know. 2) Make sure that if you have children, they don't switch your needles after you finish sock 1 and before you start sock 2. This happened and I was frantic as to why sock 2 did not fit my foot at all. Sock 1 was knit on size 2 needles, Sock 2 on size 1's. Small change, but big difference in size. 3) These guidelines assume that you have knit socks before and have some knowledge of knitting patterns. lIf you have chosen this for your first sock to do, please reconsider and try a nice plain sock first.
