joey's house
Designed by Heather Sebastian
Tiny cabled chains run down the leg and foot of each sock. Simple enough for the guy in your life who doesn't like "fancy stuff', but nice enough for the girls too. Chain Drive would look good in all but the most highly variegated yarns, so raid your stash and have at it!
You will need:
Approximately 400m / 100g of sock/fingering weight yarn. Yarn used in photos is Knit Picks Felici in the Coastal colourway. 2.25mm needles (US size 1) - DPNs, two circulars, or one circular long enough for magic loop. Your choice. OR Whatever yarn you want and needle(s) to get an appropriate fabric. Stitch markers (you may want 2 different kinds or colours) Darning needle Gauge: 8 stitches per inch if using sock weight yarn. Size: Any size! All sizes! Figure out your gauge and how many stitches you will need to cast on and go for it. Not sure how to do that? Handy free article here: http:// www.knitty.com/ISSUEspring05/FEATsocks101.html
Abbreviations:
c21 - cable 2 to the left: slip one stitch to a cable needle. Let the needle hang in back of your knitting. Knit the next stitch. Knit the stitch on the cable needle. c2r - cable 2 to the right: slip one stitch to a cable needle. Let the needle hang in front of your knitting. Knit the next stitch. Knit the stitch on the cable needle. k - knit k2tog - decrease one stitch by knitting the next two stitches together p-purl pm - place marker p2tog - decrease one stitch by purling the next two stitches together. RS - right side, the outside or good side of the fabric sl - slip the next stitch purl wise. slm - slip marker to the other needle ssk - decrease one stitch by slipping one stitch as if to knit, slipping the next stitch as if to purl, and then moving both stitches back to the left hand needle. Knit through the back loops of both stitches. st(s) - stitch(es) WS - the wrong, or inside of the fabric.
Cuff:
Cast on any number divisible by four. Divide sts evenly over your needles if necessary, and join for knitting in the round, being careful not to twist. Mark beginning of round if you need to. K2, p2 for about 3cm/1.25" or until desired cuff length is reached. On last round of ribbing add one stitch marker at the 1/4 way mark (so if you have 60 sts cast on add a marker after st #15) and another at the 1/2 way (st #30) mark.
Leg:
Pattern set up Round:
Knit to 1/4 marker, k2, place marker for cables , p2, k2, p2, knit to 8 sts before 1/2 way marker, place another marker for cables, p2, k2, p2, knit to end of round.
Main leg pattern:
Knit 5 more rounds, maintaining the above pattern. Cable Round: Knit to 1/4 marker, slip marker, k2, slip marker, p2, c2r, p2, knit to second cable marker, slip marker, p2, c21, p2, knit to end of round Continues these 7 rounds (6 rounds in pattern, 1 cable round) until you have 10 cables, or have reached the leg length you like. Knit 3 more rounds in pattern, ending at the 1/2 way marker on your last round. Start heel flap.
Heel Flap (worked flat):
The heel flap is worked across all of the sts between the 1/2 way marker and the 1/4 marker (so half of your cast on number). Row 1(RS): \*sl 1, k1\*, repeat from \* across to 1/4 marker. Turn. Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, purl all remaining heel sts. Turn. Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until you have 1/4 of the amount of your cast on sts in slip sts down the side of your heel flap. Example: if you cast on 60 sts, work until you have 15 slip sts. slip sts running down the sides of your heel flap. End on a wrong side row.
Heel Turn:
Row 1(RS): sl 1, k until 2 sts past the half way point of your heel flap, ssk, k1, turn. Example: if you cast on 60 sts total, you will be working your heel flap over 30 sts. Slip 1, then knit 16 sts = 17 worked sts. (30/2 = 15, 15 + 2 =17) Make note of how many sts you are NOT working. Row 2: sl 1, then purl until you have the same number of unworked stitches as you had in Row 1, plus three, p2tog, p1, turn. Example: if you had 11 unworked sts after Row 1, you would leave 14 sts unworked for Row 2, then p2tog and p 1 more, so the number of unworked sts would be the same on each side. You should now notice a gap between the sts on your needle where you turned. Knit (or purl) until 1 st before that gap. Make your decrease using the next st and the one after the gap. Knit (or purl) one more st, then turn. Continue in this manner until you have no more sts left to decrease. On your last 2 rows you may find that you will do the decrease and then turn as all your stitches will be used up. This is fine. End with a knit row, even if there are no more decreases to do. Count how many sts you have left for your heel and put a marker at the 1/2 way point. This is now the beginning of your round.
Gusset:
Pick up and knit one st in each chain st down the side of your heel flap. Knit across the instep sts, maintaining pattern. Pick up and knit one st in each chain st up the other side of the heel flap. Knit the remaining heel sts to the beginning of round marker. Begin gusset decreases: Round 1: knit to 3 sts before the 1/4 way marker. K2tog, k1. Knit across instep sts, maintaining pattern, to 1/2 way marker. k1, ssk, knit to end of round. Round 2: Knit all stitches, maintaining pattern. Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until you have the same number of sts you originally cast on left on your needles.
Foot:
Continue knitting as established (knit all sole sts, knit instep in pattern) until you reach your desired foot length. If you are able to try the sock on you want it to come to about the base of your baby toe, or 5 cm/2"” shorter than the length of the foot you're knitting for, measured from tip of longest toe to back of heel. Remove the stitch markers that indicate the cable sections on the last round.
Toe:
Round 1: knit to 3 sts before the 1/4 way marker, k2tog, k2, ssk. Knit to 3 sts before the 1/2 way marker, k2tog, k2, ssk, knit to end. Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until there are 8 sts left on each needle (32 total). Then continue with decrease rounds only, omitting plain rounds until there are 4 stitches on each needle (16 total). Divide sts evenly over 2 needles so you have 8 st each for top of foot and sole Cut yarn, leaving a 30cm/8" tail for grafting. Graft toes shut.
Questions or comments? Just drop me a line!
Heather Sebastian Joey'sHouse Email: joeyshouse@golden.net Blog: www.joeyshouse.wordpress.com Facebook: www.facebook.com/pages/Joeys-House/248286781898716 Twitter: www.twitter.com/#!/JoeysHouse Ravelry: JoeysHouse Chain Drive socks Copyright 2014 by Heather Sebastian, Joey's House, Kitchener Ontario Canada. This pattern is for personal use only. Drive on my friends.
