MITZI
a Crocheted Cowl worked as a Mobius with a face flattering, feminine shape Wear as a small decorative accessory to fill in a neckline in mild weather designed by Marian Nelson This pattern is written for a specific yarn and for 2 sizes. However... You can crochet this cowl using your own choice of yarn and hook. You also choose your size. The directions remain the same for all! The difference is in the number of chains to start. The constant is the pattern muliple of 16 stitches. Directions for a straight tubular cowl are on page 5. If you are using the same yarn, hook and numbers in this pattern, fine. It is still a good idea to do a swatch to find out what circumference you'll actually get, to check hook size, and try a simple version of the stitch pattern. No tight stitches; you want to have an enjoyable, easy to crochet project, once set up, that will lay softly around your neck.
MATERIALS (for the 2 cowls shown)
2 50g skeins Koigu Kersti(100% merino crepe, dk weight, 114 yds/100 m), each a different color calloneColor 1 and oneColor 2 US size H/5 mm hook or your choice plus a second hook 1 size larger for finishing 2 locking crochet markers, each a different color 6 or more easy on/easy off ("cur") markers to help with the set-up rows Gauge is the same for both cowls: 16 pattern stitches in Swatch = 4". The "orange" cowl has 51/2 repeats and is 22" around. The "blue" cowl has 612 repeats and is 26" around. Find the numbers for this size in (). Being crochet, these cowls will stretch a bit with wearing. The height (before folding--hard to measure) is 51/2" (61/2"). Your gauge might be different. A swatch is recommended. Space has been left for you to put in your own figures--if they differ. Find Swatching on page 5. You have the choice of different yarns and sizes. See Chart on page 6 for estimated circumferences and more photos. Rows 1 and 2 → Double Round 1: Start with Color 1--using a semi-solid to start is easier than a multi. Make a slip knit and place on hook. If you make it so you can pull on the tail to close the knot--it's worth it when finishing, but fiddly when working in it. LOOSELY chain 88 sts for 51/2 reps (104 for 61/2 reps) or your number Sts for reps. Help make your count accurate by placing curl markers in the top strand of the: 8th, 24th, 40th, 56th, 72nd, (88th) chains...or more "16's". And then--- Place locking marker A (color _——- ) in the bottom 2 strands of the last chain. (very, very important) This first row is made into the top strand of each chain. Why? because the second row which will start the Mobius configuration is made into the bottom 2 strands on the way around. Ch 1. Work a hdc in the marked chain going under the top strand only. Skip the next chain and dc in the top strand of next chain. Stop and go back and place locking marker B (color _) in the top 2 strands of that first hdc (so now it has 2 markers in it). It is important to always to mark the first stitch because crochet stitches seize up. Continue on with the "set-up" pattern sequence below (... 4 dc because the hdc, sk ch and 1 dc have been made), working pattern below 5 times (6 times) or _ times to last 8 sts. Remove markers as you come to them-they indicate the beginning of the next set of 16 sts. 1 hdc, skip next ch, 5 dc, 2 dc in next ch, 2 dc in next ch, 5 dc, skip next ch, 1 hdc. 8 chains remain. Work them: 1 hdc, skip next ch, 5 dc, 2 dc in last ch. Stop. Enlarge loop on hook and put hook and work down. ADD MARKERS, especially if you have not made a loose starting chain: Starting at the beginning (A and B), place a curl marker in the bottom 2 strands (often hard to find) of the skipped chain between the first hdc and the dc. Next, place markers in the bottom strands of the (2) stitches that have the dc-dc sts in them and in the bottom strands of the (2) stitches that have hdc stitches in them. Place more markers along the row in the same spots if you have them; if not, remove and replace as you crochet. The markers indicate the increase and decrease spots and help the count. Hold on the the end of the row (open loop) with your right hand. With your left hand, bring the starting end of the row around to meet it as if you were going to join in the round, RS to RS. Hold and check to see that the work is not twisted. Now give the end in your left hand a half twist, locker A and a curl on top, locker B on bottom. (See photo.) Locker marker A--orange in last ch of starting chain Locker marker B--aqua in 1st hdc
Pink curl markers in bottom of dc-dc, dc-dc Blue curl markers in bottom of hdcs just made Yarn tail hangs down Hook in loop at end of Row 1---2 dc in last ch just made Next, 2 dc will be made in A space, then 1 dc in white curl space which is in the skipped ch from the start. DR 1 continued: Now to crochet in the bottom strands of the starting chain. Replace hook and work 2 dc into the space marked with A---the bottom of the beginning hdc. A and B will be hanging down, as well as the slip knot and tail. Awkward move! Do not remove A. The next stitch is a dc--make in two strands of the skipped chain below; it should have a curl marker in it--remember, these chains are hard to find. Work 4 more dc. You will be working the same pattern, but on the WS. Persevere. Find the correct chains to work into, following the ups and downs. The 2 hdcs will be made into the 2 dc-dcs and the dc-dcs will be made into the hdcs on the "row" below. Your work will look like a "2 lane zigzag road." After a bit, unlock marker A and latch it into the space with the slip knot and tail (pull if loose) in order to join the work. (If, at any time you are uncertain of what you are doing, just run your fingers forward along the row and you will arive at locker B. If you don't, stop and re-do, you do not have a Mobius.) When back to the markers (last st was a hdc), slip st in that first hdc (with B) to end the row. Remove marker. Surprise! You have created a Mobius, a figure that has only one edge and one twist. The 2 "rows" have become a continuous single one, "double round" with 11 (13) points or points. EVERY JoIN: the slip st join and first stitch of new round are always made in the first stitch of the previous round. Remember to mark that first st (not the chain). Double Round 2: Ch 2 and dc in the hdc, replace B in the top 2 strands of the dc and continue the pattern sequence. The ch 2 is not counted. Note that dcs now replace the hdcs and tr-tr replaces the first dc-dc. 1 dc, sk 1, 5 dc, tr-tr in next st, dc-dc in next st, 5 dc, sk 1, 1 dc. End with a slip st in the marked dc. Remove B. Ch 2 and dc in the same place as the slip st. Place B in the top strands of the dc. Continue with pattern, this time adding something new. Double Round 3: 1 dc, sk 1, 5 dc, tr-tr below\*, dc-dc in next st, 5 dc, sk 1, 1 dc. \*work into the space between the 2 previous trebles--really the 2 strands of the 2nd treble and a 3rd strand which is part of that stitch. This will form an obvious pattern. End Round with a change to Color 2. (End off Color 1.) CHANGING COLORS: on the last draw through on the last stitch of the round, yarn over with new yarn and complete stitch (usual color change), then make the slip st with it. Round ended.
nd4:WORKALLSTITCHESEXCEPT THE TR-TRIN THEBACKLOOPS.
Work the tr-tr down into the 3 strands "between" as before. Notice the ridge pattern from working in the back loop. It is done for texture and to help offset the curl. Working in the back loops makes the stitches look sloppy, especially when you are crocheting at a looser gauge than normal; they will settle down as more are made. 1 dc, sk 1, 5 dc, tr-tr below, dc-dc in next st, 5 dc, sk 1, 1 dc. These 2 cowls end after a total of 4 (5) Double Rounds plus Last Double Round plus Finishing. The "blue" cowl has two DR 4. Best feature about crochet--you can try it on at anytime! Make sure that more rounds of DR 4, if you work them, will enhance the cowl! Pay attention to yardage and cowl twist with other yarns and other sizes. Last Double Round: Continue to work all stitches in the BACK LOOPS except the tr-tr. This time, however, crochet into the stitches you would normally skip. This addition of 2 dc stitches each set helps to ease the tension on the edges when the cowl is worn and produces a slight flare. 7 dc, tr-tr below, dc-dc in next st, 7 dc = 18 sts. Finishing Round: On the last dc, change to Color 1 (or your choice) and slip st to close. Change to the next size larger hook--or be prepared to work very loose stitches. Do not chain to start, just slip st in the back loop of the first dc. This whole finishing round is worked into the BACK LOOPS, still making increases but no decreases (like on the previous round). Slip stitches tend to tighten up. Watch your tension, work loosely/lightly.
7 sl st, 2 sl st in the next st\* (2nd tr), 2 sl st in next st\* (1st dc), 7 sl st.
\*Easy way is to make 2 slip stitches in the back loops of the 2nd tr and the 1st dc; this method leaves 2 small bumps because the second stitch becomes smaller. An alternative way is to make the first slip st in the back loop of the treble as usual and the second slip st by going into the back loop and then under that 3rd strand in the back for the second sl st. The same with the double crochet: go into the back loop for the first sl st and then into the same back loop plus (find) a 3rd strand for the second sl st. After the last slip stitch, cut yarn and draw tail through the loop. Run the tail through the first slip st to mimic it. Secure tails by running them into same color stitches. Remove marker A and use the beginning tail to join the "'slit". Blocking is Advised A brief soak in tepid water will soften the yarn and relax the stitches. Handle gently when blotting. Smooth out cowl on a towel and place a small rolled towel under the twist. Rotate the cowl as it dries. How to Wear The cowls are reversible. With the twist in front, fold back edge over, having the outside fold shorter. Place the cowl around your neck with the smooth part in back, then arrange the twist in front or to the side to flatter your face. Experiment--these cowls can be worn many ways. Notes: Why trebles? Working a ripple or zigzag stitch patten in the round causes the work to bias. The top of the stitch that you are crocheting into slants and lies to the "right" of the stitch. Analyze the pattern: There are two sets of increases to offset the 2 sets of decreases. By making the first increase a 2-treble-set\* (instead of a 2-double-set as in most patterns), the set will puff out and be visible. So when you come to them on the next round, they're easy to spot and the overall slant won't trick you. Working 2 new trebles "between" will form a pattern to keep your stitch count in check. \* the puffiness will smooth out with blocking; if they bother you, change the tr-tr into a dc-tr. The skipped stitches make small holes--the first skip in sequence is easy to miss. Using a skipped stitch instead of a 2 stitch decrease creates a smoother, flatter line.
Remember the 16 count if you get lost.
Working in the back loops helps to stop the inevitable curl forward, due to the biasing and freed points. The "ch 2" is used for stability and easy color changes; it is not counted. The hdcs in the Swatch and in DR 1 are there only for clarity of instructions. Markers are used to keep count, ensure correct construction, and save time hunting for stitches.
米米米米米Abbreviations
ch chain st(s) stitch(es) hdc half double crochet dc double crochet tr treble crochet = equals DR Double Round WS wrong side times sl st slip stitch sk skip dc-dc 2 dc made in same place tr-tr 2 tr made in same place plural (like hdcs) reps repeats RS right side
SWATCHING
Use your chosen yarn and hook. Don't worry that the real cowl will be worked in rounds. Pattern in Rows-for swatching only. (Note: It is easier when you are crocheting this in the round.) Chain 32, plus 1 ch for turning. In each set of 16 sts, work: Rows 1 and 2: 1 hdc, sk next st, 5 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc, sk next st, 1 hdc. Ch 1, turn. Row 3: 1 hdc, sk next st, 5 dc, 2tr in next st, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc, sk next st, 1 hdc. Lay flat and measure the width of 16 stitches (peak to peak). Write down your estimated gauge to the nearest whole or whole and 12 number. 16 sts =— inches =X For a Mobius: (this pattern) For this shape to work, 8 sts (/2 of 16) must be removed. 6 repeats become 512 7 repeats become 61/2 8 repeats become 71/2 Find your numbers in the Charts--or figure them out yourself because not all are there. X times number of repeats = estimated circumference in inches for cowl 16 times the number of repeats = number of chains to start A note of warning about size: Crochet s t r e t c h e s. This cowl is also a Mobius which will take up more room that a straight cowl because of the twist. KERSTl 16 sts = 4" H/5 mm hook
KPPPM 16 sts = 312" G/4 mm hook KPPPM 16 sts = 3" E/3.50 mm hook STRAIGHT, TUBULAR COWL-This cowl was designed for crocheters after seeing the Colourscape knit cowl in Koigu Magazine # 6 which calls for 12-15 mini (30 yd) skeins. This is not a crochet version of that cowl--it is a variation on the pattern here. You can buy a 24 sk pack or use stash from your previous KPPPM and KPM projects. Work cowl at a tighter gauge--try a D or E (3.25-3.50 mm) hook. The cowl in the magazine is 12" high and 22" around. Remember, though, you have choices. For a straight cowl: (not shown) Work the Swatch to find out your pattern gauge. 16sts = _ inches = X The pattern repeat must be a whole number. Line up your yarns. Alternate light and dark colors for best showing, maybe 2 rounds each. Follow the same directions for the first part of DR 1, using a whole number of repeats (no 8 sts left). For a neat bottom edge, crochet into the back strand/hump of each chain (leave out the skipped ones). Join in the round (no twist) with a slip st into the top of the first hdc (locker B). Ch 2, make the first dc into the same place. Replace marker in the top of the dc. Continue with the pattern. Work as many single rounds as you wish, changing colors at will and working some in the back loops for texture.
CHART 1 Number of Chains
Repeats Multiplied by 16 = Number of Chains for Start
| 4 | x 16 = 64 ch | 4.5 | x 16 = 72 ch |
| 5 | x 16 = 80 ch | 5.5 | x 16 =88 ch |
| 9 | x16 =96 ch | 6.5 | x 16 = 104 ch |
| 7 | x16 = 112 ch | 7.5 | x 16 =120 ch |
| 8 | x16 =128 ch | 8.5 | x 16 =136 ch |
CHART 2 Circumference
Gauge Multiplied by Number of Repeats = Estimated Inches Around
| 3" | x 7.5 = 22.5" | x6=21" | 3.5 | x 6.5 = 22.75" | |||||
| 3" | x7 =21" | 3.5 | |||||||
| 3" | x8 = 24" | 3" | x7.5 = 25.5" | 3.5 | x7 = 24.5" | 3.5 | x7.5 =26.25" | ||
| 3" | x 9 = 27" | 3" | x 9.5 =28.5" | 3.5 | x8= 28" | 3.5 | x 8.5 = 29.75" | ||
| 3" | x10=30" | 3" | x 10.5 =31.5" | 3.5 | x9= 31.5" | 3.5 | x9.5 =33.25" | ||
| 4" | x5=20" | 4" | x 5.5 = 22" | 4.5" | x5 = 22.5" | 4.5" | x 4.5 = 20.25" | ||
| 4" | x 6 = 24" | 4" | x6.5 =26" | 4.5" | x 6 = 27" | 4.5" | x 5.5 = 24.75" | ||
| 4" | x7 = 28" | 4" | x7.5 =30" | 4.5" | x7= 31.5" | 4.5" | x 6.5 = 29.25" | ||
| 4" | x8=32" | 4" | x8.5 = 34" | 4.5" | x8= 36" | 4.5" | x7.5 = 33.75" |
These are MITZI cowls crocheted with Kersti (dk weight): Measured FLAT, number of rounds in colors, the anticipated grams of yarn (including a swatch) to have. All have the same gauge of 16 sts = 4", using a H/5 mm hook, with center circumferences at 22", 26", and 30".
10" 5 double rounds: 3 multi, 3 solid 60 grams 512 repeats 1112" 6 double rounds: 3 solid, 3 multi 75 grams 612 repeats 13%2" 7 double rounds: 1 solid, 1 multi, 1 solid, 71/2 repeats 2 multi, 2 solid 100 grams Note that you can change colors at the half-way point (locker A) if your color is running short.
