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Pattern Information
Difficulty: Experienced. Techniques include cables, knitting in the round, picking up stitches from edge, short rows, provisional cast-on and three-needle bind-off.
Abbreviations:
Pattern format: Written abbreviated instructions. Some sections are charted but following charts is optional. Yarn: Sport weight yarn in wool-cotton or cotton-acrylic blend. For best results, use a smooth yarn with good stitch definition. Yardage: Dress version—approx. 1,260 (1,360, 1,495, 1,670, 1,840, 2,010) metres or 1,380 (1,490, 1,640, 1,830, 2,015, 2,200) yards. Sweater version—approx. 1,010 (1,090, 1,200, 1340, 1,470, 1,610) metres or 1,030 (1,190, 1,310, 1,465, 1,610, 1,760) yards. Gauge: 23 sts, 32 rows to 10 cm or 4”’ square in stockinette. Needles and other equipment: 1 set of circular 3.25mm/US size 3 knitting needles with a cable at least 80 cm long. Extra set of 3.25mm needles for 3-needle bind-off. At least 8 stitch markers. Darning needle for weaving in ends. 3mm/ D/3 US size crochet hook. K: Knit P: Purl M1: Make 1. Pick up bar between current stitch and the next one, and knit through the back loop. k2tog: Knit 2 together skpo: Slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over sppo: Slip 1, purl 1, pass slipped stitch over BO: Bind off RS: Right side of knitting WS: Wrong side of knitting [..]: Repeat contents of brackets the number of times specified. w&t: Wrap and turn for short rows. On the RS, knit up to specified place, hold yarn to the back, slip the next stitch from left to right needle, bring yarn around to the front as if to purl, slip stitch back onto left needle, and turn piece. c4b: Cable 4 to the back. Slip 2 sts onto cable needle, hold cable needle to the back, k next 2 sts, then k the 2 sts from the cable needle. c4f: Cable 4 to the front. Slip 2 sts onto cable needle, hold cable needle to the front, k next 2 sts, then k the 2 sts from the cable needle. c6b: Cable 6 to the back. Slip 3 sts onto cable needle, hold cable needle to the back, k next 2 sts, then k the 3 sts from the cable needle. c6f: Cable 6 to the front. Slip 3 sts onto cable needle, hold cable needle to the front, k next 2 sts, then k the 3 sts from the cable needle. Ease: Ocm/inches ease around bust. Loose around hips.
Sizing
Select your size based on bust circumference measured at the fullest portion of the bust. If you fall between sizes, choose the closest size. See Schematic 3 on p. 9 for finished garment measurements.
XS | S | M | L | XL | 2XL | |
Bust size | 71-76cm 28-30" | 81-86cm 32-34" | 91.4-96.5cm 36-38" | 101.5-106.5cm 40-42" | 115.5-117cm 44-46"" | 122-127cm 48-50* |
Wearer'swaist circumference | 58.5-61cm 23-24"" | 63.5-67.5cm 25-26.5" | 71-76cm 28-30" | 81.5-86.5cm 32-34" | 91.5-96.5cm 36-38" | 101.5-106.5cn 40-42" |
Wearer's hip circumference | 84-86.5cm 33-34"" | 89-91.5cm 35-36" | 96.5-101.5cm 38-40"" | 106.5-111.5cm 42-44"" | 117-122cm 46-48" | 132-134.5cm 52-53" |
Yoke (XS to L)
The yoke is worked using short rows to create a curved cabled band. For charted instructions, see Page 7. Cast on 50 stitches provisionally
Establishing straight segment:
RS row: K3, p2, [k1tbl, p2, k8, p2] 3 times; k1tbl; p2, k3. WS row: p3, k2, [p1tbl, k2, p8, k2] 3 times; p1tbl; k2, p3.
Short rows part 1:
For charted instructions from Rows 1 to 24, see top chart on page 7. Row 1 (RS): Work as established for 17 sts, w&t next st. Row 2 (WS): Work as established back to end of row. (Do the same on all WS rows unless otherwise stated. For the rest of this section, WS rows will not be written out.) Row 3: Work as established for 30 sts; w&t next st. (On stitch 18, make sure to knit the wrap and stitch together. Look out for the wrapped stitches on subsequent RS rows.) Row 5: Work as established to end of row.
Cabled knots:
Row 7: k3, p2, [kltbl, p2, k2, c4b, k2, p2] 3 times; kltbl, p2, k3. Row 8: Work as established (remember to pltbl on the k1tbl stitches from the previous row). Row 9: k3, p2, [k1tbl, p2, c4f twice, p2] 3 times; kltbl, p2, k3. Row 10: Work as established. Rows 11-14: Repeat rows 7-10. Rows 15 and 16: Repeat rows 7 and 8.
Short rows part 2:
Row 17 (RS): Reestablishing straight segment of yoke, work 17 sts, w&t next st Row 18 (WS): Work as established back to end of row. (Same for rest of wS rows.) Row 19: Work as established for 30 sts, w&t next st. Row 21: Work as established for 43 sts, w&t next st. Row 23: Work full RS row as established. Row 24: Work as established back to end of row (final row). Repeat rows 1-24 a total of 15 (16, 17, 18) times. Total of 212 (226, 240, 254) rows in inside curve and 362 (386, 410, 434) rows on the outside curve.
Yoke (XL & 2XL)
The yoke is worked using short rows to create a curved cabled band. For charted instructions, see Page 7. Cast on 62 sts provisionally.
Establishing straight segment
RS row: K3, p2, [k1tbl, p2, k12, p2] 3 times; k1tbl; p2, k3. WS row: p3, k2, [p1tbl, k2, p12, k2] 3 times; p1tbl; k2, p3.
Short rows part 1:
For charted instructions from Rows 1 to 26, see lower chart on page 7. Row 1 (RS): Work as established for 21sts, w&t next st. Row 2 (WS): Work as established back to end of row. (Do the same on all WS rows unless otherwise stated. For the rest of this section, WS rows will not be written out.) Row 3: Work as established for 38 sts; w&t next st. (On stitch 22, make sure to knit the wrap and stitch together. Make sure to knit wraps together with their stitches on subsequent RS rows.) Row 5: Work as established for 55 sts, w&T next st Rows 7 & 8: Work to end of row as established.
Cabled knots
Row 9: k3, p2, [k1ltbl, p2, k3, c6b, k3, p2] 3 times; kltbl, p2, k3. Row 10: Work as established (remember to pltbl on the k1tbl stitches from the previous row). Row 11: k3, p2, [k1tbl, p2, c6f twice, p2] 3 times; kltbl, p2, k3. Row 12: Same as row 10. Rows 13-16: Repeat rows 9-12. Rows 17 and 18: Repeat rows 9 and 10.
Short rows part 2:
Rows 19 to 26: Repeat rows 1 to 8. Repeat rows 1-26 a total of 18 (20) times. Total of 254 (282) rows on the inside curve and 470 (522) rows on the outside curve.
Yoke Seam (All sizes)
Transfer the provisional cast-on stitches to a knitting needle. Use a three-needle bind-off to seam the two ends of the yoke together. Make sure to place the right sides facing together so that the bind-off seam ends up on the wrong side. If you know how to graft ribbing, you could also use kitchener stitch to join the yoke. See http://techknitting.blogspot.hk/2012/12/graftingribbing-without-12-stitch.html
Collar Band
The collar band is worked in the round in seed stitch, ending in a stockinette rolled edge. Join new yarn at the yoke seam. On the top edge of the yoke, pick up and knit a total of 159 (167, 175, 183, 191, 215) sts. For all sizes except L, pick up approx. 3 out of every 4 rows. For size L, pick up 5 out of every 7 rows. Prior to knitting 1st round, insert a marker at beginning of round, then 7 more markers after every 20 (21, 22, 23, 24, 27) sts. Round 1 (decrease round) for sizes XS, M, and XL: slip 1st marker, \*skpo, [p1, k1] until last 2 sts before marker, sppo \* Repeat from \* to \*. On the final repeat, omit the last k1 and end on skpo. (143, 159, 175 sts remaining). Round 1 (decrease round) for sizes S, L, 2XL: slip 1st marker, \*skpo, [p1 k1] until 3 sts before next marker, pl, skpo; slip marker; sppo , [k1, p1] until 3 sts before next marker; k1 sppo , slip marker\*. Repeat from \* to \* a total of 4 times, but on the 4th repeat, work up to the last 2 sts, then skpo. (151, 167, 199 sts remaining.) Rounds 2-4: Continue even in seed stitch. Round 5 (decrease round) for sizes XS, M and XL: slip 1st marker, \*sppo , [k1, p1] until last 2 sts before marker, skpo\* Repeat from \* to \*. On the final repeat, omit the last p1 and end on sppo . (127, 143, 159 sts remaining). Round 5 (decrease round) for sizes S, L and 2XL: slip 1st marker, \*sppo , [k1 p1] until 3 sts before next marker, k1, sppo ; slip marker; skpo, [p1, k1] until 3 sts before next marker; p1 skpo, slip marker\*. Repeat from \* to \* a total of 4 times, but on the 4th repeat, work up to the last 2 sts, then sppo . (146, 151, 183 sts remaining.) Rounds 6 to 8: Continue even in seed stitch. Round 9: [k2tog, k30 (15, 34, 36, 18, 5)] 3 times; k2tog, k to end of round. (123, 127, 139, 147, 151, 157 sts remaining.) Rounds 10-12: k all. Bind off loosely.
Torso
The torso is worked in the round. At the bottom of the yoke, starting at the seam, pick up and knit 266, (288, 302, 322, 354, 392) sts. You should pick up approximately 3 out of every 4 rows. Take 5 stitch markers and insert them at the following intervals: Insert 1st marker at the beginning of the round, which should be in the centre back above the yoke seam. Insert 2nd marker after 37 (42, 45, 49, 54, 59) sts. This marks off the right back panel. Insert 3rd marker after 59 (60, 61, 63, 69, 78) sts. This marks off the right sleeve. Insert 4th marker after 74 (84, 90, 98, 108, 118) sts. This marks off the front panel. Insert 5th marker after 59 (60, 61, 63, 69, 78) sts. This marks off the left sleeve. The remaining 37 (42, 45, 49, 54, 59) stitches form the left back panel. Round 1 (increase round): Pass BOR marker. [K up to 1 st before marker, yo, k1, pass marker, k1, yo,] 4 times; k to end of round. Repeat rounds 1 and 2 a total of 1 (2, 3, 5, 9, 12) times until there are 274 (304, 326, 362, 394, 440) sts. Total of2 (4, 6, 10, 18, 24) rows after intial pick-up row.
Divide for sleeves:
Knit the right back panel. Transfer the 61 (64, 67, 73, 79, 90) right sleeve stitches to scrap yarn. Taking the working yarn from the right back panel, cast on 7 (7, 9, 9, 11, 11) sts for the right armscythe with the cable caston method. Using the working yarn, k the front panel. Transfer the left sleeve sts to scrap yarn. Taking the working yarn from the front panel, cast on 7 (7, 9, 9, 11, 11) sts for the left armscythe. Still using the working yarn, k the left back panel to end of round. Reinsert 3 markers to mark off the following segments: Insert 1st marker at beginning of round. Insert 2nd marker after 42 (48, 53, 59, 65, 71) sts. This marks the right side “seam'". Insert 3rd marker after 82 (94, 104, 116, 128, 140) sts. This marks left side “seam". There are 42 (48, 53, 59, 65, 71) sts left until end of round. Total number of sts around bust is 166 (190, 210, 234, 258, 282). Work 5-7.5cm (2-3") in stockinette. Note for advanced knitters: If you want to insert short row bust darts, do so on the plain stockinette portion here.
Side panels & waist shaping
From here onwards, the sweater/dress will be divided into 4 panels. The front and back panels are worked in plain stockinette. The left and right side panels each have 4 cabled knots similar to the yoke, but offset diagonally. See Schematic 1 on page 8. Note that the beginning of the round is still in the centre of the back. Round 1 (establishing round): Right back panel: Slip BOR marker; K19 (21, 26, 28, 30, 32), insert marker; Right side panel: K11 (13, 13, 15, 17, 19); [k1tbl, p1 (2, 2, 3, 2,3), k8 (8, 8, 8, 12, 12), p1 (2,2, 3, 2, 3)] twice; k1tbl; k11 (13, 13, 15, 17, 19); Front panel: Insert marker, k38 (42, 52, 56, 60, 64), insert marker; Left side panel: Work the same as right side panel. Left back panel: Insert marker, k19 (21, 26, 28, 30, 32). 168 (190, 210, 234, 258, 282) sts total. Rounds 2-4: Work as established. Round 5 (decrease round): K right back panel until last 2 sts, skpo; work right side panel as established; k2tog, k front panel until last 2 sts, skpo; work left side panel as established, k2tog, k left back panel to end of round. 162 (186, 206, 230, 254, 278) sts. Rounds 6-10: Repeat rounds 1 to 5. 158 (182, 202, 226, 250, 274) sts. Round 11: K right back panel. For right side panel, \*k1tbl, p1 (2, 2, 3,2, 3), k8 (8,8, 8, 12, 12), p1 (2, 2,3, 2, 3)\*; work 1st row of cabled knot band twice; then repeat from \* to \*; k1tbl. K front panel. Work left panel same as right panel. K left back panel. Rounds 12-14: Continue as established, working the two cabled knots on either side panel. Round 15 (decrease round): K right back panel until last 2 sts, skpo; work right panel including cabled knots; k2tog, k front panel until last 2 sts, skpo; work right panel including cabled knots; k2tog, k to end of round. 154 (178, 198, 222, 246, 270) sts. Rounds 16-19: Continue as established, completing the two cabled knots in the centre of either side panel. Round 20 (decrease round): Decrease as in round 15. 150 (174, 194, 218, 242, 266) sts. Round 21: K right back panel. For the right side panel, work row 1 of cabled knot band; continue as established (with no cabling) for the next 22, (26, 26, 30, 34, 38) sts; work row 1 of cabled knot band; k1tbl. K front panel. Work left panel same as right side panel. K left back panel. Rounds 22-24: Continue as established, working the second set of cabled knots on either side panel. Round 25 (decrease round): Decrease as in round 15. 146 (170, 190, 214, 238, 262) sts. Rounds 26-29: Continue as established, completing the second set of cabled knots on either side panel. Round 30 (decrease round): Decrease as in round 15. 142 (166, 186, 210, 234, 258) sts. Rounds 31-34: Work as established. Round 35 (decrease round): Decrease as in round 15. 138 (162, 182, 206, 230, 254) sts. Rounds 36-44:Work as established.
Cabled Knot Band
Sizes XS to L have 2 over 2 cabled knots on bands 11 (13, 13, 15) stitches wide. Row 1: k1tbl, p1 (2, 2, 3), k2, c4b, k2, p2 (2, 2, 3). Row 2: k1tbl, p1 (2, 2, 3), k8, p1 (2, 2, 3). Row 3: k1tbl, p1 (2, 2, 3), c4f, c4f, p1 (2, 2, 3). Row 4: Same as row 2. Rows 5-8: Repeat rows 1-4. Rows 9-10: Repeat rows 1-2. Sizes XL and 2XL have 3 over 3 cabled knots on bands 17 (19) stitches wide. Row 1: k1tbl, p2 (3), k3, c6b, k3, p2 (3). Row 2: k1tbl, p2 (3), k12, p2 (3). Row 3: k1tbl, p2 (3), c6f, c6f, p2 (3). Row 4: Same as row 2. Rows 5-8: Repeat rows 1-4. Rows 9-10: Repeat rows 1-2.
For Sweater Length
Round 1 (increase round): K right back panel up to last st, m1, k1; work right side panel as established; k1, m1, work front panel up to last st, m1, kl; work left side panel as established; k1, m1, k to end of round. Continue working as established, increasing every 6th round until sweater measures 53.5-56cm (21-22") from the shoulder, or to desired length. Go to hem.
For Dress Length
Round 1 (increase round): K right back panel up to last st, m1, k1; work right side panel as established; k1, m1, work front panel up to last st, m1, kl; work left side panel as established; k1, m1, k to end of round. Continue knitting as established, increasing every 6th row until dress reaches about 46cm (18") from the shoulder, to the fullest part of the stomach. End on an increase row.
Skirt flare:
Note: The following instructions create a very wide, flared skirt which is flattering on bottom-heavy figures. The circumference of the bottom of the skirt will measure approximately 167 (174, 183, 193.5, 104, 214 cm) or 65.75 (68.5, 72, 76, 80, 84"). If you wish to make a less flared skirt, work more rounds evenly between the increase rounds. Rounds 1-5: Work as established. Round 6 (major increase): On a major increase row, 20 new stitches are added. 4 are on the front and back panels, and the other 16 are embedded in the stockinette portions of the side panels. See Schematic 2 on page 8. K right back panel up to last stitch, m1, k1; [k1tbl, p1 (2, 2, 3, 2, 3), k1, m1, k up until last stitch before the next purl stitch, m1, k1, p1 (2, 2, 3, 2, 3)] 4 times, k1tbl. K1, m1, k front panel up to last st, m1, k1. Work left panel same as right panel. K1, m1, k to end of round. Rounds 7 to 11: Work even. Round 12 (minor increase): On a minor increase row, 4 new stitches are added. They are located on the front and back panels only. K right back panel up to last st, m1, k1; work right panel as established; k1, m1, k front panel up to last st, m1, k1; work left panel as established; k1, m1, k left back panel to end ofround. Repeat rounds 1-12 a total of 10 times, or until dress reaches desired length (recommended about 82.5-85cm (32.5-33.5\*) from shoulder). Go to hem.
Hem
Establishing round: M1, work as established to end of round. There should now be an odd number of stitches. Work the next 8 rounds in seed stitch (k1, p1 on the first row; p1, k1 on the 2nd row). Work 4 rounds in stockinette. Bind off loosely.
Sleeves
Pick up 61 (64, 67, 73, 89, 90) live sts from scrap yarn for sleeve. Join new yarn and k all. Pick up and knit 7 (7, 9, 9, 11, 11) sts from the armscythe. 68 (71, 76, 82, 90, 101) sts. K another round, ending on the 4th (4th, 5th, 5th, 6th, 6th) picked up stitch from the armscythe. Insert marker to indicate new beginning of round. Rounds 1-5: Knit all Round 6 (decrease round): k2tog, k until last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Continue as established, working a decrease round every 6th round a total of 13 times, until there are 42 (45, 50, 56, 64, 75) sts left. Work even until sleeve measures about 42-46cm (16.5-18") from armscythe, or 2.5 cm (1") less than desired length.
Cuff
If your cuff has an odd number of stitches, work 8 rounds in seed stitch (k1, p1 on the first round; then p1, k1 on the second round). If your cuff has an even number of stitches, k2tog, then [p1, k1] to end of round, ending on k1. Work 7 more rounds in seed Stitch. Work 4 rounds in stockinette Bind off loosely. Work second sleeve same as the first.
Finishing
First, turn the garment inside-out. To give the sweater/dress more structure and to prevent it from stretching out vertically, take a 3mm crochet hook and make 1 row of chain crochet down each side where the side seam would be. (Pick up the stitch next to the twisted knit stitch.) To prevent the neckline from stretching out, you can also make 1 row of chain crochet around the inside of the collar band, just below the rolled hem. Weave in ends. Wash garment according to instructions on the ball band, and block flat.
Charts for Yoke
Yoke (XS to L)
Repeat rows 1-24 a total of 15 (16, 17, 18) times. Total of 212 (226, 240, 254) rows in inside curve and 362 (386, 410, 434) rows on the outside curve.
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Yoke (XL & 2XL)
Repeat rows 1-26 a total of 18 (20) times. Total of 254 (282) rows on the inside curve and 470 (522) rows on the outside curve.
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Knit on right side rows, purl on wrong side rows MNNW C4b. Cable 4 to the back Purl on right side rows, knit on wrong side rows C4f. Cable 4 to the front Knit through the back loop on right side rows, purl through C6b. Cable 6 to the back back loop on wrong side rows. C6f. Cable 6 to the front W&t. Wrap stitch and turn
Schematic 1: Side Panel
The cabled knots on the side panels are done in the same way as on the yoke, but instead of all being placed in a row, the outer two are offset diagonally. As the width of the repeats varies depending on size, the vertical grid lines are not shown. As the garment is knitted top-down, the side panel is shown here as it appears on the needles. When the finished garment is turned the right way up, it will appear as in Schematics 2 and 3.
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Schematic 2: Skirt Increases
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All measurements are after blocking
XS | S | M | L | XL | 2XL | ||
A | Width of garment at bust | 37cm 14.5* | 42cm 16.5* | 47cm 18.5* | 52cm 20.5" | 57cm 22.5' | 62cm 24.5' |
B | Width of garment at waist | 30 cm 12" | 35cm 13.75* | 39.5cm 15.5* | 45cm 17.5" | 50cm 19.75* | 55cm 21.75* |
C | Width of garment at hem | 77cm 30.25* | 82cm 32.25* | 86.5cm 34” | 92cm 36” | 97cm 38” | 102cm 40.25* |
D | Length of garment, shoulder to hem (pullover version) | 53.5cm 21 | 53.5cm 21" | 54.5cm 21.5* | 54.5cm 21.5' | 56cm 22" | 56cm 22" |
E | Length of garment, shoulder to hem (dress version) | 79cm 31" | 79cm 31" | 80cm 31.5* | 80cm 31.5* | 81cm 32" | 81cm 32" |
F | Sleeve length (armscythe to wrist) | 42cm 16.5* | 43cm 17" | 43cm 17" | 44.5cm 17.5" | 44.5cm 17.5* | 45.5cm 18" |