TWISTED HourGLAss SocKs
Robin Griffiths I wanted to design socks dressy enough that a man could wear them with a suit but adventurous enough not to look staid and boring. They had to be interesting to knit but not too fussy. When I'd finished I liked them so much that I had to include a woman's size as well so I could have my own pair. These socks are designed to be worked in the round from the top down on two circular needles, but you could use a set of double pointed needles or the magic loop method if you prefer. The pattern flows out of the twisted rib cuff and includes ankle decreases for a snug fit. The ribbed cable on either side splits into two smaller cables and continues down the sides of the foot and heel flap. The rest of the heel is knit in sturdy slip stitch rib. A long heel flap ensures room for a high instep and the extra stitches on the top of the foot which accommodate the pattern are decreased just before the toe shaping. They feature an hourglass cabled twist pattern adapted from Barbara Walker's First Treasury. If you haven't tried cabling without a cable needle I'd recommend giving it a whirl as it greatly speeds up the knitting of this pattern. Instructions are included at the end of the pattern, or refer to the many excellent tutorials available online. Finished Size 18(22) cm foot circumference (measured off the foot) and 24(28) cm long from back of hee to tip oftoe. To ft woman's size 7-9 (men's size -11). Size can beadjusted by changing the needle size and the length of foot is variable, just work to required length before starting toe shaping. Yarn Patons Australia Patonyle $80\%$ Wool $20\%$ Nylon); $175\mathrm{m}/50\mathrm{~g~}$ colour 4303 (slate blue) 3 balls. This ya is dicntiuJawolfineringweightbyang Yaswubagoodsbtity other sock yarn which gives you the correct gauge may be used. Needles 2 circular . Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge. Notions Cable needl (CN), marker ${(\mathfrak{m})}$ , tapestry needle Gauge/Tension 8 $\mathrm{:sts}=2.5\,\mathrm{cm}$ in St st
Stitch Guide
Pattern
Twisted Rib: \*k1tbl, $\mathrm{p}1^{*}$ repeat to end of round
Left Cable Twist:
Row 1: Sl next st to CN and hold in front, kltbl, p1 on next 2 sts, then k1tbl from CN Rows 2-4: kltbl, p1, kltbl
Right Cable Twist:
Row 1: Sl next 2 sts to CN and hold in back, kltbl, then from CN p1, k1tbl Rows 2-4: k1tbl, p1, k1tbl
Note
When working Left and Right Cable Twist patterns back and forth on the heel flap wrong side rows (rows 2 and 4) should be worked as follows: pltbl, k1, pltbl
Leg: Cast on 68(76) sts and divide evenly between the 2 circular needles. Place marker (pm) and join for working in the round. Work twisted rib for 3.5(4) cm. Set Up Round (sm size): On needle 1 \*k1tbl, p1, kltbl, pf&b, kltbl, p2, pf&b, p2, kltbl, pf&b, kltbl, k2tog, pf&b, kltbl, p4, k2tog, p2, k2tog, \*p1,kltbl\* 3 times, pf&b\* Repeat on needle 2. 4 sts increased, 72 sts. Set Up Round (Ig size): On needle $1\ {\ast}1$ tbl, pl, k1tbl, pf&b, kltbl, p2, pf&b, p2, kltbl, pf&b, kltbl, k2tog, pf&b, kltbl, p2, pf&b, p2, kltbl, pf&b, kltbl, pl, k1tbl, p2tog, \*p1, k1tb1\* 4 times, pf&b\* Repeat on needle 2. 10 sts increased, 86 sts. Round 1 (both sizes): On needle 1 work row 1 of twisted hourglass chart (women's or men's size chart), row 1 of Chart A (ribbed cable left cross). On needle 2 work row 1 of twisted hourglass chart (women's or men's size chart), row 1 of Chart B (ribbed cable right cross). One round competed. Continue in rounds working charts as established until leg measures 10(12) cm from cast on edge, ending with row 8 of charts A and B.
Ankle Shaping:
On needle 1, work next row of hourglass chart as established, row 9 of Chart A. On needle 2 work next row of hourglass chart as established, row 9 of Chart B. Continue in rounds working charts as established. On round containing row 13 of Charts A and B, 4 sts will be decreased as indicated in the charts, 68(82) sts remaining. Lower Leg (both sizes): Continue in rounds working charts as established, repeating rows 17-24 of charts A and B when reached, until leg reaches 16(19) cm from cast on edge. End with row 18 of Charts A and B. Increase for heel flap (both sizes): On needle 1, work hourglass chart as established, \*p1, kltbl\*twice, pfb&f, $^{*}\mathrm{kl}$ tbl, $\mathrm{p}1^{*}$ twice. Repeat on needle 2. 4 sts increased, 72(86) sts. Next round (both sizes): On needle 1, work hourglass chart as established, ${\mathfrak{s}}_{\mathrm{p}1}$ , kltbl\* twice, p3, $^{*}\mathrm{kl}$ tbl, p1\* twice. Repeat on needle 2.
Redistribute sts for heel as follows:
Transfer last 5 sts of previous round from needle 2 to needle 1, continue on needle 1 working hourglass chart as established, p1, row 1 right cable twist, p1. 35(42) sts. These sts will form the top of foot. Transfer remaining 6 unworked sts from needle 1 to needle 2. There will be 37(44) sts on needle 2.
Heel flap
work back and forth on needle 2 as follows (please read note regarding working the cable twist patterns back and forth on the heel flap in the stitch pattern): Row 1: (RS) sl 1 pwise with yarn in front, p1, row 1 left cable twist, pl, \* sl 1 pwise, $\mathrm{k}1^{*}$ repeat to last 6 sts (sm size will end sl 1), p1, row 1 right cable twist, p2, turn work Row 2: ( WS) sl 1 pwise with yarn in back, k1, row 2 right cable twist, k 1, purl to last 6 sts, k1, row 2 left cable twist, k2 Continue working back and forth until 8(10) repeats of cable twist pattern have been completed, there will be 16(20) chain selvedge sts on either side of heel flap.
Turn heel
(sm size only start row K2tog) Row 1: (RS) knit across 20(24) sts, ssk, k1, turn work. Row 2: sl 1 pwise, p 5, p2tog, pl, turn. Row 3: sl 1 pwise, knit to 1 st before gap, ssk, k1, turn. Row 4: sl 1 pwise, purl to 1 st before gap, p2tog, pl, turn. Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all heel sts have been worked, ending ssk and p2tog on rows 3 and 4 respectively. 20(24) sts remain.
Heel gusset
Knit across all heel sts and with needle 1 pick up and knit tbl 16(20) sts along the edge of heel flap. Work held sts on needle 2 as follows: p1, row 1 left twist cable, p1, hourglass chart as set, pl, row 1 right twist cable, p1. With needle 1 pick up and knit tbl 16(20) sts along other edge of heel flap, knit 10(12) heel sts, pm. Round now begins at centre back heel. 87(106) sts. Work one round even as follows: Knit to end of needle 1. On needle 2, p1, row 2 left twist cable, p1, hourglass chart as set, row 2 right twist cable, p1. On needle 1, knit to marker.
Round 1: knit to last 2 sts on needle 1, k2tog, work instep sts on needle 2 in chart and patterns as established, on needle 1 ssk, knit to marker. 2 gusset sts decreased. Round 2: knit to end of needle one, work across needle 2 in established pattern, knit to marker on needle 1. Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until there remain 65(80) sts. 30(38) on needle 1, 35(42) on needle 2. Foot: Work even in set pattern until foot measures 20.5(23) cm from back of heel, ending with row 5 or 13 of hourglass chart. Next round (sm size): Knit to end of needle 1. On needle 2: pl, sl 1, k2tog, psso, pl: If ended row 5: kltbl, p4, kltbl, p2, k2tog, p2, kltbl, p6, kltbl, p2, kltbl, pl, kltbl If ended row 13: kltbl, p1, kltbl, p2, kltbl, p6, kltbl, p2, k2tog, p2, kltbl, p4, kltbl Continue on needle 2: p1, k3tog, p1. On needle 1 knit to marker. 5 sts decreased. 60 sts remaining. Next round (lg size): Knit to end of needle 1. On needle 2: p1, sll, k2tog, psso, p1, work hourglass chart as established, p1, k3tog, p1. On needle 1, knit to marker. 4 sts decreased. 76 sts remaining. Both sizes: Knit one round. Toe Round 1: knit to last 3 sts on needle 1, k2tog, k1; on needle 2, k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; on needle 1, k1,ssk, k to marker. 4 sts decreased.
Round 2: knit
Repeat these 2 rounds until 28(36) sts remain. Repeat round 1 until 12(16) sts remain. Cut yarn leaving a tail. Graft toe together using the kitchener st. Weave in loose ends.
Glossary
CN cable needle CO cast on k knit k tbl knit through the back of loop k2tog knit two stitches together k3tog knit three stitches together p purl p2tog purl two together pf&b purl into front and back of stitch pfb&f purl into front, back, then front again (two stitches increased) pm place marker psso pass slipped stitch(es) over pwise purlwise RS right side sl slip sl st slip stitch ssk slip two stitches as if to knit, then knit those two stitches together st(s) stitch(es) tbi through the back of loop(s)
About the author
A transplanted Canadian, I live (and knit) with my husband in Brisbane, Australia. Knitting fills the creative void left after retiring from life as a professional cruise ship musician and getting a real job. This is my first design. Please feel free to contact me with any questions or suggestions at robin_griffiths $@$ hotmail.com or via my blog www.tangledtwine.blogspot.com
Twisted Hourglass, Women's Size
Adapted from Barbara Walker's First Treasury
Created in Knit Visualizer (www.knitfoundry.com)
Twisted Hourglass, Men's Size
Adapted from Barbara Walker's First Treasury Created in Knit Visualizer (www.knitfoundry.com)
Notes: Work two Full pattern repeats as outlined in red.
Chart A
Ribbed Left Cable Cross
Created in Knit Visualizer (www.knitfoundry.com)
Notes:
Repeat rounds 1-8 For the upper cuff until it reaches $10(12)\Omega$ or desired length. Work rounds 9-16 For the anke decreases, Continue lower cuff repeating rounds 17-24 until leg reaches 16(19) cm or desired length, ending with row 18.
Chart B
Ribbed Cable, Right Cross
Created in Knit Visualizer (www.knitfoundry.com)
Repeat rounds 1-8 for the upper cuff until it reaches $10(12)\in\pi$ or .desired length. Work rounds 9-16 For the ankle decreases., Continue lower cuff repeating rounds 17-24 until leg reaches 16(19) cm or desired length, ending with row 18.
Please note that when working the ribbed cable patterns, unlike “\*regular'? cable patterns, on the crossing rows some knit sts are purled and some purl sts are knitted. Do not be afraid. This is normal and is not a cause for alarm. Proceed as indicated in the pattern and all will be revealed. Using the technique for cabling without a cable needle on the ribbed cable cross pattern is an advanced option. If you are trying cabling without a cable needle for the first time, I'd advise using it on the hourglass pattern first and working the ribbed cables in the standard way until you fel very comfortable with the technique.
Instructions for Cabling Without a Cable Needle
Left Leaning (Front Cross) Cables/Twist
When pattern instructs you to transfer stitches to the cable needle (CN), slip required number of stitches purlwise from left needle to right needle with yarn in back. Work the next stitches as indicated by pattern. With yarn in back, bring the left needle in front of the work and, skipping over the worked stitches, insert the tip into the slipped stitches from left to right. Gently take the right needle out of all the stitches involved in the cable/twist. The unworked stitches will be held on the left needle at the front of the work. The worked stitches will be dangling loose at the back of the work. Reinsert the right needle into the worked stitches, then work the rest of the stitches from left needle as indicated in the pattern.
Right Leaning (Back Cross) Cables/Twist
When pattern instructs you to transfer stitches to the cable needle (CN), slip required number of stitches purlwise from left needle to right needle with yarn in front. Work the next stitches as indicated by pattern. With yarn in back, bring the left needle in back of the work and, skipping over the worked stitches, insert the tip into the slipped stitches from left to right. Gently take the right needle out of all the stitches involved in the cable/twist. The unworked stitches will be held on the left needle at the back of the work. The worked stitches will be dangling loose at the front of the work. Reinsert the right needle into the worked stitches, then work the rest of the stitches from left needle as indicated in the pattern.
