Vine Laee S+ripe Soeks
ized to fit a Women's Medium (size 8 feet), but it's customizable. Knit in the round using two circular needles (but you may use your preferred method) Gauge: 8.5 sts and 9 rows to the inch in stockinette. SUPPLIES NEEDED: Two size 2.0 MM Addi Turbo Circular needles (U.S. size O) (or the size needed to achievegauge) 100 grams (400 yds. or less) of Opal Cotton/Wool Blend in the Hundertwasser Positive/ Negative colorway. You may also use another cotton and wool blend fingering weight (sock) yarn such as Regia Cotton, Meilenweit Cotton, Lang Jawoll Cotton, Sockotta, or try Tofutsies, Maizy, Panda Soy or a bamboo or tencel wool blend. This pattern will look nice in solids or self striping yarns, or a yarn like the one I chose, which is a little bit of both. I'm not big on wearing the red, white and blue, but this pattern might work well in that yarn too. Since these are summer socks, I'm using a cooler blend, but a light fingering wool/nylon blend yarn would also work fine.
SIZE NOTES:
You can knit the pattern with 63 stitches to make a smaller sock, but some adjustments will have to be made for the heel. I would knit the heel on 30 stitches, adjust the instep stitches to 36 after the heel (move those extra picked up side stitches to the instep needle), and decrease the sole stitches down to 26 or 28 stitches (a total of 62 or 64 foot stitches). Readjust to equal amounts of stitches on each needle when you come to the toe decreases. ABBREVIATIONS: CO = Cast on K = Knit KW = knit wise, or inserting your needle into the next stitch as if you were going to knit it P = Purl PSSO = Pass the slipped stitch over the stitch you just knitted (just like binding off) PW = purl wise, or inserting your needle into the next stitch as if you were going to purl it SL = Slip SSK = slip a st PW to right needle, slip a second st KW to right needle, then move them back to the left needle knit those two together TOG = together (as in K2TOG: knit two stitches together to decrease one stitch) yO = Bring the yarn to the front of the work as if you were going to purl. Instead, bring the yarn back over the needle and knit the next stitch. This creates a hole, and a new stitch, which must be accounted for with an accompanying decrease. SOCK PATTERN: CO 72 sts. Join, being careful not to twist, and knit in garter stitch for 6 rounds, ending with a knit round. Garter Stitch in the Round: Round 1: Purl Round 2: Knit Repeats rounds 1 and 2 for as many rounds as you want Vine Lace Stripe Pattern Stitch (9 stitch repeat) Round 1: \*K1, yo, k2, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k2, yo\*; rep between \*'s around Round 3: \*yo, k2, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k2, yo, k1\*; repeat between \*'s around Rounds 2 & 4: Knit around Repeats rounds 1-4 for pattern Knit around in the vine lace pattern stitch until sock tube measures 5-6 inches long (stretched out), ending with round 1 or 3 of the lace pattern. NOTE: Don't worry when you first start knitting the lace pattern. The sock will flare out and look like a flower and you'll swear it will never fit anyone but Bigfoot. Not to worry, keep knitting a few repeats of the lace and the sock will calm down. The top does flop over a bit when not on the foot. I don't find this to be a problem. If it really bothers you, you can knit a few more rounds of garter stitch before beginning the lace pattern. The lace does not have a lot of widthwise stretch (think Jaywalker). HEEL: Leaving half of the stitches on the instep needle to be worked after knitting the heel flap, turn work and purl across the first 36 stitches. This is the first row of the heel. Eye of Partridge with slipped stitch edge (EOP) Row 1: \*slip 1, K1,\* repeat between \*'s to end Row 2: slip 1, P to end Row 3: slip 1, K1, \*k1, slip 1,\* repeat between \*'s to last 2 stitches, end K2 (don't end with a slipped stitch.) This alternates the slipped stitches, creating the EOP pattern. I originally discovered (unvented) this variation when I made a mistake doing the heel stitch and liked what I created. Later on I learned that it had a name. Many patterns will have you slip two stitches at the start of round 3, then K1, SL1, but for stability I prefer to have two knit stitches in a row instead of two slipped stitches. Row 4: repeat Row 2. Knit in this pattern until heel flap is 2 1/4 - 2 1/2" long. This is a matter of personal preference. Measure the bare foot of the intended recipient from floor to middle of ankle bone to determine the correct measurement. You can also knit until the heel flap is square, as many patterns state, but with the eye of partridge stitch drawing in the heel I prefer to use an actual measurement. Heel turn: (round heel) Thanks to Dave Mackay's "heels by number" (also on Ravelry) which was the inspiration for these. (Note: SSK = slip a st PW\* to right needle, slip a second st KW\* to right needle, then knit those two together) Row 1: slip 1, knit 18, ssk, k 1, turn Row 2: slip 1, purl 5, p2tog, p1, turn Row 3: slip 1, knit 6, ssk, k1, turn Row 4: slip 1, purl 7, p2tog, p 1, turn. Continue on, adding one st knitted or purled at the center of the row until all stitches have been worked. I try to keep knitting the heel turn in the EOP stitch, but it's not essential. You should be ending with a knit row. If not, knit across the heel until you reach the first pick up edge. Using your circular needle tip pulled out quite a bit (or a crochet hook as an assistant), pick up & knit one stitch from each slipped stitch along the edge of the heel flap (about 20 stitches). If there is a little gap where the heel meets the instep stitches, pick up a strand and twist it, then knit it to close the hole. If you have to, pick up another loose stitch in this area, repeat the process. Knit across the 36 instep stitches (still waiting patiently on the instep circular needle holder) in the vine lace pattern (round 2 or 4). Using the heel needle, pick up & knit stitches on the opposite side of heel flap, knit across heel flap and up to three stitches from instep needle. You should have about 96- 104 stitches on the needles at this point. It is not critical to have an exact number of stitches, as you will just continue to decrease the extra stitches away until you return to the same number that you started with. Decrease Rounds: Three stitches from end of sole needle, K2 TOG, K 1. Knit across the 36 stitch instep in the vine lace pattern to the end of the instep needle. Sole needle: K 1, SSK, knit around to the end of the foot/sole needle. Knit one round without decreasing (or two, if you like a slower rate of decrease for a higher instep), and repeat decrease round. Repeat decrease and plain knit rounds until 72 stitches remain on the needle, 36 on the instep and 36 on the foot. Knit plain, without decreasing, and keeping the instep stitches in the lace pattern and the foot stitches in stockinette, until the foot is about 7.25-7.5" long (2" less than desired length). Wedge toe: Round 1: Knit to last 3 stitches before instep, k2 tog, k1. Instep needle: K1, SSK, knit to last 3 stitches before sole needle;: K2 TOG, K1. Sole needle: K1, SSK, knit to last 3 stitches before instep, k2 tog, k1. Round 2: Knit around in stockinette stitch. Repeat these two rounds until 18 stitches remain, 9 on each needle. Use the Kitchener stitch (graft) to join them together (or turn the sock inside out and finish with a 3- needle bind off like I do. Now knit the second sock! Copyright 2007 Margie Dougherty, Magali Knits (fairisle on Ravelry) All rights reserved. You may print this pattern and share it with others, providing this notice remains attached.
