Taivaskero Shawl: Detailed Knitting Instructions and Pattern for a Heavenly Peak-Inspired Design

Introduction

Taivaskero is the second shawl in the “Fell shawls" series. Taivaskero (also called Himmelriki) is the highest peak of the Pallastunturi fells in Muonio, Finland. “Kero" literally means "peak" and "taivas" means "heaven", so Taivaskero is the "heaven peak"... In this shawl, the edging's pointy fell peaks and northern lights are knit first. Afterwards, the stitches

for the shawl's main part are picked up from the edging. In some people's eyes, stars are twinkling from the main part; whereas I am reminded of bearberries. The yarn chosen for the shawl is also reminiscent of bearberry leaves in autumn. Finally, the main part's sun disc is knit. Its rays are formed by the triangles separating the bearberry sectors. This shawl is dedicated to my little sister and was knit as a graduation present for her.

Yarn

Teetee Elegant; 70 % combed wool, 30 % tussah silk; 547 yd (500 m) / 1.8 oz (50 g); wine red. Yardage 1200 yd (1100 m) / 3.9 0z (110 g). Yarn can be replaced with any similar lace yarn.

Gauge

24 sts and 26 rows = 4 in (10 cm) bearberry lace (chart 2), blocked. Correct gauge is important, as yardage will increase substantially when knitting more loosely. The shawl's shape will also suffer a bit from differing gauge; e.g., the main part's sectors' size in relation to the edging will differ. It is thus recommended to knit a sufficiently large sample, wash and block before beginning knitting of the shawl.

Needles

Min. 20 in (60 cm) long circular needles, size US 3 (3.25 mm). I knit very tightly, so US 1 - 2 (2.5 - 2.75 mm) is probably a good choice for most people. Additionally you need size Us 6 (4.0 mm) needles for binding off the edging.

Other materials

3 removable stitch markers. You can also use marker yarn.

Size

:h at center 27% in (70 cm), wingspan 59 in (150 cm). Edging width 15 in (38 cm)

Directions

Before you begin

Read the instructions, charts, key and abbreviations carefully before you start knitting. WS rows are always purled between the edge stitches, unless mentioned otherwise in the patterns. Chart 1a shows WS and RS rows, 1b only RS rows. Chart 2 and 3 show only RS rows. Odd-numbered rows are always RS rows, even-numbered rows are always WS rows.

Edging

CO 51 sts. Knit 3 rows in gst; at the beginning of each row, always sl1p On the straight edge always sl1p at the beginning of RS rows and k1 on the end of ws rows. This way, a nice chain of stitches will be formed; this is where the main part's stitches are picked up from. On the pointed edge always p1 at the beginning of wS rows. A dense chain of stitches will be formed, which yields well when blocking.

Begin knitting the edging from chart 1a, row 1 and cont straight to chart 1b, row 1. Turn the work around. Knit chart 1b, row 2 (i.e., p allsts) and cont with chart 1a, row 2. Turn the work around. Cont knitting as above to the end of chart 1a and b. Fig 1a, rows 1-4 are repeated 15 times for every repetition of chart 1b. Repeat chart 1b, rows 1- 6o for a total of 15 times. After knitting row 6o for the last time, knit once more chart 1a and b, row 1. After that, knit 3 rows in gst; at the beginning of each row, slip. BO on RS using a big needle as follows: K2, \*lift the first st over the last st you knit, k1\*. Rep \*-\* until the end of the row. Break yarn and pull through last st. The edging's edge doesn't have to yield very much.

Main part

There are now 454 sts on the edging's straight edge. Pick these up from Ws by picking up the back loops from the chain of stitches one by one and pulling the pickup yarn through. A total of 441 sts are picked up, which means that 13 times (about every 31 sts) the back loops from 2 sts are picked up before pulling through the yarn. See image series.

Sl1p and k rem (Rs). Turn the work around. Sl1p, k2, p435, k3 (Ws). In chart 2 and 3, WS rows are always knit this way. Knit chart 2, rows 1-4 2 times and afterwards rep rows 5-20 3 times. Chart 2 is always knit in the following order: 2a (3 sts), 2b (108 sts), 2c (1 st = center st), 2d (108 sts), 2c (1 st = center st), 2b (108 sts), 2c (1 st = center st), 2d (108 sts), 2e (3 sts). Always rep the sts outlined in red in parts 2b and 2d 23 times. Mark the 3 center sts (part 2c) with removable stitch markers for clarity. Move the stitch markers upwards as the work progresses. Cont with chart 3. Knit rows 1-18. Chart 3 is always knit in the following order: 3a, 3b, 3C, 3d, 3C, 3b, 3c, 3d, 3e. Rep the sts outlined in red as needed.

Sun disc of main part

SKP = Sl1, k1, psso (single decrease). SK2P = Sl1, k2tog, psso (double decrease). M1 = Insert left needle, from front to back, under strand of yarn between stitches and knit this stitch through back loop. Row 1 (RS): Sl1p, k2. \*(K1, SK2P) 17 times, k1 (= center st), (SK2P, k1) 17 times\*. K1 (= center st). Rep \*-\* once, k3. 145 sts on needle.

Rows 2-5: Sl1p, k rem. Row 6 (Ws): Sl1p, k2, p until 3 sts remain, k rem. Row 7 (RS): Sl1p, k rem. Row 8 (Ws): Sl1p, k2, p until 3 sts remain, k rem. Row 9 (RS): Sl1p, k rem. Row 10 (WS): Sl1p, k2, p until 3 sts remain, k rem. Row 11 (RS): Sl1p, k1, SKP, (k4, SK2P) 19 times, k4, k2tog, k2. 105 sts on needle. Row 12 (WS): Sl1p, k2, p until 3 sts remain, k rem. Row 13 (RS): Sl1p, k rem. Row 14 (Ws): Sl1p, k2, p until 3 sts remain, k rem. Row 15 (RS): Sl1p, k rem. Row 16 (WS): Sl1p, k2, p until 3 sts remain, k rem. Row 17 (RS): Sl1p, k1, SKP, (k2, SK2P) 19 times, k2, k2tog, k2. 65 sts on needle. Row 18 (Ws): Sl1p, k2, p until 3 sts remain, k rem. Row 19 (RS): Sl1p, k rem. Row 20 (Ws): Slip, k2, p until 3 sts remain, k rem. Row 22 (WS): Sl1p, k2, p until 3 sts remain, k rem. Row 23 (RS): Sl1p, k2, m1, (SK2P, k4) 8 times, SK2P, m1, k3. 49 sts on needle. Row 24 (WS): Sl1p, k2, p until 3 sts remain, k rem. Row 25 (RS): Sl1p, k rem. Row 26 (WS): Sl1p, k2, p until 3 sts remain, k rem. Row 27 (RS): Sl1p, k rem. Row 28 (Ws): Sl1p, k2, p until 3 sts remain, k rem. Row 29 (RS): Sl1p, k2, (SK2P, k2) 9 times, k1. 31 sts on needle. Row 30 (WS): Sl1p, k2, p until 3 sts remain, k rem. Row 31 (RS): Sl1p, k rem. Row 32 (WS): Sl1p, k2, p until 3 sts remain, k rem. Row 33 (RS): Sl1p, k rem. Row 34 (WS): Sl1p, k rem. Row 35 (RS): Sl1p,k3, (SK2P, k2) 5 times, k2. 21 sts on needle. Row 36 (ws): Sl1p, k rem. Row 37 (RS): Sl1p, k rem.

Row 38 (ws): Sl1p, k rem. Row 39 (RS): Sl1p, k2,(SK2P) 5 times, k3. 11 sts on needle. Row 40 (ws): Sl1p, k rem. Row 41 (RS): Sl1p, k1, SKP. Turn work. Row 42 (Ws): Sl1p, k2. Rep rows 41 and 42 a total of 5 times. 6 sts remain on needle: 3 sts from the left edge and 3 sts from the right edge. Graft corresponding sts together.Break yarn.

Finishing

Wet the shawl, dry with clean towel and block to measurements. Weave in ends.

Charts

Chart 1a

Chart 1b

Key : k on RS and p on WS : p on RS and k on WS : empty (no stitch) : SKP (= sl1, k1, psso) : RS: k2tog WS: p2tog 0:YO : sl2 as if to k2tog, k1, p2sso W : in the same stitch, k1, yo, k1 (2 sts increased) : sl1, k2tog, psso ：slip : kfb numbers: amount of stitches between two decreases / yarnovers red boxes: repeat contents as mentioned in text odd-numbered rows are RS rows

Abbreviations