HIMEROS
BYLETIPANDA
This pattern is my intellectual property. It's for PERSONAL USE ONLY. It means you cannot sell or distribute this pattern on commercial or non commercial purpose, fully or partially, or any objectbasedonit. Contact me if you need any information : LetipandaBC@gmail.com. Himéros is an elongated shawl. Veryl elongated indeed ! Do you know Himéros ? During this period of Valentines and romance, everybody! knows this little-winged Cupid, with his| bow and arrows. In Greek mythology, his name is Eros. But, did you know that he was notthe only one of Aphrodite's companions ? Himéros was on her Lovel team too ! He personifies amorous desire,I passion. And, what is better than a big cosy shawll to wrap up both your lover and yourself inI soft warmth ? Here is how my Himéros was born : a' deep desire to get rid of left-over yarn ! II am sure you did not expect this but Yarn is passion, isn't it ? Concretely， Himérosisashawll parallelogram shape, although a little unbalanced. You start at one end, until you reach a comfortable length. Then, hop, without any warning, you take a sharp turn and knit perpendicularly until the end of this row. Add some teasing shorts rows and you got this unique shape. This is an easy garter stitch pattern. So,I you can choose to wet-block or not. If you do not block it, it will be thick and soft, with a good length of almost 2 yards. Ifl you do block it, it will be light, slightly soft, I but with a length of 2.35 yards. As you can see, there are stripes. Thinl ones, large ones, curved ones. To keep the twisted spirit of this shawl, the | first part is worked on the right side, whereas the second part is worked on the wrong side. This shawl is completelyl reversible ! All in all, this shawl is easy to knit, not that technical, for a various and colorful result. The given gauge is purely informative. It is1 measured on a stretched garter stitch.
MATERIAL :
ABBREVIATIONS :
Thread : Fingering 4ply, betweenIRs/ws : Right/Wrong side. 385 and 435 yd for Main Color,Ik/p : knit/purl. between 220 and 250 yd forIst : stitch(es). Contrasting Color 1, between 35IR: row. and 50 yd of Contrasting Color 2. IMC : Main color My version, 95 gr (around 415 yd) ofI cc1 : contrasting color 1. Framboises au bout des doigts, La feée! cc2 : contrasting color 2. file, (1o0 % merino non-superwash, ,!sM : Slip marker 100 gr = 435 yd), 53 gr (around 230:M1 : Make one (see annexes p.5 for yd) of Cascade Yarns Merino Silk (85 more explanations). % merino, 15 % silk, 100 gr = 435 SSK : Slip, Slip, Knit. Slip 2 stitches as yd), light grey, 26 gr (around 36 yd);if to knit on the left needle, pick back of Guéret, Fonty (100 % merino, 50 grjloop with the right needle and knit = 137 yd). Itogether. Circular needles, 4 mm. I W&T : Wrap and Turn. Wrap a knit stitch_: thread on the 1 marker. front, slip one, thread on the back, put Iback the stitch on the left needle, turn Ithe work. Gauge : 20 st. x 29 r = 4 inch in garter] stitch, stretched.
ADVICES AND INFORMATION :
You will find, at the end of this pattern, in annexes p. 5, the techniques used in this pattern described step-by-step. All the important information are indicated in italic, underlined and colored. In this pattern, only important rows are written, the rest is simply pointed out. Count your rows. The word 《 rib 》 corresponds to two consecutives knit rows, (aka a rib of garter stitch). You must count your ribs on the right side. A direction between \*asterisks\* must be repeated. A short row is made on two consecutives rows. The quotes "SR Rs/Ws" and "SR wS/Rs" indicate short rows. The change of colors are indicated row by row, with this typography : MC, CC1, CC2. Do not forget to cross the thread during stripes parts. You can cut the thread at the end of each part if you want. I highly recommend you to read the whole pattern before beginning, at least once, to avoid any kind of surprise. Moreover, always read entirely each paragraph before continuing. If you want to save paper and ink, print only page 4 ;) .
PATTERN :
Cast on 3 stitches with Mc. Knit one row. On the next row, place a marker before the 3rd stitch.
PART 1 :
R 1 (RS) : Knit to marker, M1, SM, K1. R 2 (WS) : Knit. These two rows make a rib (R). Careful : when you change color, you mustl do it on a row 1 and from 3 stitches of thel beginning. In other words, the first 3 stitches of row 1 and the last 3 stitches of row 2 are always knit with Mc, regardless the color ofl the rib. Repeat rows 1 & 2 in such way that you obtain this color code from the end : 26 R in total (beginning) \*1 R/ 2 R\*x 5 1 R 11R \*2 R / 1 R\*x 5 \*1 R/1 R\*x 2 14 R \*1 R/ 1 R\* x 10 \*1R/ 1R\*x3 2 A (center) You have 117 stitches and did your last rowl on the wrong side.
PART 2 :
Right side facing, cast on 3 stitches by picking them up on the last stitch (see annexes p. 5). These 3 stitches constitute the working row of part 2. Careful, the right side ofpart2correspondstothewrongsideof part 1. In other words, row 1 is WS, row 2 is RS. Place a marker before the last stitch you cast on. Now you will work with short rows (SSK method). So, you have to make a SSK with the last stitch of working row part 2 and next stitch of working row part 1. So, part 2 isl worked perpendicularly to part 1, while joined in the process. Careful : when you change color, you must| Ido it on a row 2 from 3 stitches of the "joining zone". In other words, the first 3 stitches of row 2 and the last 3 stitches of row 1 are always knit with Mc, regardless Ithe color of the rib (aka the 3 closest stitches Iof part 1, including SSK). I Then : SR 1 /2 (WS/RS) : Knit until 1 stitch before the end of working row 2， SSK, turn, S1 thread in front, knit to marker, M1, SM, K1. Repeat this short row in such a way that you obtain this color code : 12 R \*3R / 1 R\*x 5 \*1R/ 1 R\*x1 16 R \*1 R/ 1 R\*x 5 \*1 R/1 R\*x5 8R IOn the next row, with MC : SR 3/4 (WS/RS) : Knit until 3 stitches before previous SSK, W&T, knit to marker, M1, SM, K1. SR 5/6(WS/RS.）:Knit until 3 stitches before previous W&T, W&T, knit to marker, M1, SM, K1. Repeat SR 5/6 until you have 36 W&T in total. Careful, when you knit these short rows, the , stitches from part 1 are put aside. ISR 7/8 (WS/RS) : Knit until 1 stitch before ,the end of working row 2 (do not forget to pick up the wraps and K2tog with the stitch Ithey wrapped), SSK, turn, S1, knit to Imarker, M1, SM, K1. 'Then, repeat again SR 1/2 (part 2), with SSK I'joining zone", in such a way that you obtain Ithis color code : You have 153 stitches. Bind off loosely (I choose a crochet bing off), weave in ends and block as you wish. Et voila :). M1 : For this pattern, the increase M1 is made on the right side, from the front of the work. 1- Knit until the place you have to increase. The thread indicated by blue arrow will be your new stitch. 2- With left needle, from the front, pick it up. 3- Knit through back loop. 4- There is what you get when you repeat this increase on each RS row.
CAST ON FROM A STITCH :
1 & 2 - Pick on the stitch as if to knit. 3 - Pull the thread through it with the right needle. 4 - Put it back on the left needle. 5, 6 & 7 : Repeat the same thing in the new stitch. 8 - repeat as many times as needed.
