Himeros
Add some teasing shorts rows and you got this unique shape. Himéros is an elongated shawl. Very elongated indeed ! Do you know Himéros ? During this period of Valentines and romance, everybody knows this little-winged Cupid, with his bow and arrows. In Greek mythology, his name is Eros. But, did you know that he was not the only one of Aphrodite's companions ? Himéros was on her Love team too ! He personifies amorous desire, passion. And, what is better than a big cosy shawl to wrap up_both your lover and yourself in soft warmth? Here is how my Himéros was born : a deep desire to get rid of left-over yarn ! I am sure you did not expect this but Yarn is passion, isn't it? Concretely, Himeros is a shawl parallelogram shape, although a little unbalanced. You start at one end, until you reach a comfortable length. Then, hop, without any warning, you take a sharp turn and knit perpendicularly until the end of this row. This is an easy garter stitch pattern. So, you can choose to wet-block or not. If you do not block it, it will be thick and soft, with a good length of almost 2 yards. If you do block it, it will be light, slightly soft, but with a length of 2.35 yards. As you can see, there are stripes. Thin ones, large ones, curved ones. To keep the twisted spirit of this shawl, the first part is worked on the right side, whereas the second part is worked on the wrong side. This shawl is completely reversible ! All in all, this shawl is easy to knit, not that technical, for a various and colorful result. The given gauge is purely informative. It is measured on a stretched garter stitch.
Material:
Abbreviations :
Thread : Fingering 4ply, between 385 and 435 yd for Main Color, between 220 and 250_yd for Contrasting Color_1, between 35 and 50'yd of Contrasting Color 2. i My version, 95 gr (around 415 yd) of_ Framboises au Ibout des doigts, La fée file, _.(ioo % merino nonIsuperwash, 100 gr = 435 yd), 53 gr (around 230 yd) of Cascade Yarns Merino Silk(85 % merino, 15 % silk, 100 i gr = 435 yd), light grey, 26 gr (around 36 yd) of Guéret, I Fonty (100 % merino, 50 gr = 137 yd). Circular needles, 4 mm. 1 marker. RS/ws : Right/ Wrong side. k/p : knit/ purl. st : stitch(es). R : row. MC : Main color cc1 : contrasting color 1. CC2 : contrasting color 2. >:until (you reach) (S)Mk : Slip marker Mi : Make one. SSK : Slip, Slip, Knit. W&T : Wrap and turn. Gauge : 20 st. x 29 r = 4 inch in garter stitch, stretched.
Conseils et informations :
You will find links in this pattern. These are several step-by-steps to show you how to do W&T, M1. I advise you to see them, even if you already know those techniques, they might have variations. · All the important information are indicated in italic, underlined and colored. · In this pattern, only important rows are written, the rest is simply pointed out. Count your rows. · The word 《 rib 》 corresponds to two consecutives knit rows, (aka a rib of garter stitch). You must count your ribs on the right side. · A direction between \*asterisks\* must be repeated. A short row is made on two consecutives rows. The quotes "SR RS/Ws" and "SR WS/Rs" indicate short rows. · The change of colors are indicated row by row, with this typography : MC, CC1, CC2. Do not forget to cross the thread during stripes parts. You can cut the thread at the end of each part if you want. · I highly recommend you to read the whole pattern before beginning, at least once, to avoid any kind of surprise. Moreover, always read entirely each paragraph before continuing. If you want to save paper and ink, print only page 2 ;) .
Pattern :
Irow 2 from 3 stitches of the"joining zone". In other Iwords,the first 3stitches of row2 and thelast 3 stitches Iof row 1 are always knit with Mc, regardless the color of the rib(aka the'3 closest stitches of part 1， including SSK).
PART 1 :
R 1 (RS):Knit > Mk, M1, SMk, K1. R 2 (WS) : Knit. These two rows make a rib (R). Be aware : when you change color, you must do it on al row 1 and from 3 stitches of the beginning. In other1 words, the first 3 stitches of row1 and thelast 3 stitches of row 2 are always knit with Mc, regardless the color of therib. Repeat rows 1 & 2 in such way that you obtain this color code from the end : 26 R in total (beginning) \*1R/ 2R\*x 5 1R 11 R \*2 R/1 R\*x 5 \*1R/1R\*x2 14 R \*1 R/1 R\* x 10 \*1R/1R\*x3 C 2 A (center) You have 117 stitches and did your last row on the wrong side.
PART 2 :
Right side facing, cast on 3 stitches by picking them up on the last stitch . These 3 stitches constitute the working rowofpart2. Be aware : the right side of part 2 corresponds to thel wrong side of part 1. In other words, row 1 is WS, row 2I isRs. Place a marker before the last stitch you cast on. Now you will work with short rows (SSK method). So, you have to make a SSK with the last stitch of working row part 2 and next stitch of working row part 1. So, part 2 is worked perpendicularly to part 1, while joined in the process. Be aware : when you change color, you must do it on al I Then : SR 1 /2 (WS/RS): Knit > 1 st before the end of working ; row 2, SSK, turn, S1 wyif, knit > Mk, M1, SMk, K1. IRepeat this short row in such a way that you obtain this I colorcode: 12 R · \*3R/1R\*x5 · \*1R/1R\*x1 · 16 R \*1R/1R\*x5 · \*1R/1R\*x5 8R ; On the next row, with MC : ISR 3/4 (WS/RS) : Knit > 3 st before previous SSK, W&T, I knit > Mk, M1, SMk, K1. ISR 5/6 (wS/RS.): Knit > 3 st before previous W&T, I W&T, knit > Mk, M1, SMk, K1. Repeat SR 5/6 until you have 36 W&T in total. IBe aware:when you knit these short rows, the stitches frompart1areputaside. ISR 7/8 (WS/RS) : Knit > 1 st before the end of working I row 2 (do not forget to pick up the wraps and K2tog with Ithe stitch they wrapped), SSK, turn, S1, knit > Mk, M1, |SMk, K1. Then, repeat again SR 1/2 (part 2), with SSK "joining zone", in such a way that you obtain this color code : \*3 A / 1A\*x 1 \*5 A/ 1 A\*x 5 2 A IYou have 153 stitches. Bind off loosely (with a crochet bind off for example), weave in ends and block as you wish. Et voila :).
