Materials:
383 meters / 419 yards of fingering weight yarn (shown in Wollmeise $100\%$ superwash, colorways Bob, Veilchen), about $100\ \mathrm{g}\ \cdot\ 3,5\ \mathrm{oz}$ ， $2{,}5\;\mathsf{m m}$ circular needle (or size to get the given gauge) long enough for magic loop $2{,}25\mathsf{m m}$ circular needle for picking up stitches and knitting the I-cords Waste yarn Tapestry needle
Gauge:
32 stitches and 52 rounds on 10 cm / 4" in stitch pattern. Make sure to also count the rounds where every second st is slipped! Take time to swatch because geting the correct gauge is essential for well-fitting gloves!
Notes: These gloves are knit using the ,magic loop" method, however you can use double pointed needles or two circular needles if you prefer. Just be aware that the instructions often refer to needle 1 and 2 (meaning each half of the total stitch count). Where stitch counts vary depending on the size, the following format is used: S/M [M/Lj. At the beginning of each section (cuff, hand), the round numbers start anew at 1. Instructions between 2 asterisks need to be repeated to the end of the round. $\mathsf{R G}=$ Instructions for the right glove $\mathsf{L G}=$ Instructions for the left glove READ THE WHOLE PATTERN BEFORE YOU START KNITTING!
Abbreviations:
ssk: Slip one st as if to knit, then slip the next st as if to knit. Insert left needle into the front loops of the slipped sts and knit them together from this position through the back loops. k2tog: Knit two stitches together as if they were a single stitch. pm: place marker. sl1wyif: slip one as if to purl with working yarn in front. m1: Make one by lifting strand in between stitch just worked and the next stitch, knit into back of this thread
Cuff Edge
RG + LG: Using the 2,5 mm needle, cast on 62 [70] sts using the long tail cast-on. (DON'T join in the round!) Row 1: purl Row 2: $k2\sp{\star}{\sf k}\tt1$ , sl1wyif\* till 2 sts remain, k2 Row 3: purl Row 4: $k2\star\sf{s}|1$ wyif, $k1^{\star}$ till 2 sts remain, k2 Repeat row 1-4 6 more times.
RG:
Join in the round, separating the sts so there are 30 [34] sts on needle 1 and 32 [36] sts on needle 2. $\underline{{\mathsf{L G}}}$ Join in the round, separating the sts so there are 32 [36] sts on needle 1 and 30 [34] sts on needle 2.
RG + LG:
Round 1: knit Round 2; \*k1, sl1wyif\* Round 3: knit Round 4: \*sl1wyif, k1\* RG: Round 5: k15 [17], shift the remaining sts on needle 2, k32 [36], slip the remaining 15 [17] sts from needle 2 to needle 1. This results in moving the beginning of the round 15 [17] sts to the right (30 [34] sts on needle 1 and 32 [36] sts on needle 2). From now on, needle 1 will be the back of hand and needle 2 will be the palm. Start of round is at the pinky finger side of the glove (marked as a red dot in the schematic).
Round 5: k15 [17] and shift these sts on needle 2 (moving the beginning of the round 15 [17] sts to the left). While knitting the remaining sts, rearrange the total stitch count so there are 32 [36] sts on needle 1 and 30 [34] sts on needle 2. From now on, needle 1 will be the palm, and needle 2 will be the back of hand. Start of round is at the pinky finger side of the glove (marked as a red dot in the schematic).
RG:
Round 6: purl
Round 7-14: knit 2 stitch pattern repeats Kouna 15: ssK, K20 [3U], KZt0g, ssK, K28 [32], K210g Round 16: work round 4 of the stitch pattern. Round 17-20: work round 1-4 of the stitch pattern. Round 21-22: work round 1-2 of the stitch pattern. Round 23: ssk, k24 [28], k2tog, ssk k26 [30], k2tog. Round 24-26: work round 2-4 of the stitch pattern. Round 27-30: work round 1-4 of the stitch pattern. Round 31: knit Round 32: purl
Round 6: purl
Round 7-14: knit 2 stitch pattern repeats Round 15: ssk, k28 [32], k2tog, ssk, k26 [30], k2tog Round 16: work round 4 of the stitch pattern. Round 17-20: work round 1-4 of the stitch pattern. Round 21-22: work round 1-2 of the stitch pattern. Round 23: ssk, k26 [30], k2tog, ssk, k24 [28], k2tog Round 24-26: work round 2-4 of the stitch pattern. Round 27-30: work round 1-4 of the stitch pattern. Round 31: knit Round 32: purl
RG + LG:
This will result in having
RG: 26 [30] sts on needle 1 and 28 [32] sts on needle 2 LG: 28 [32] sts on needle 1 and 26 [30] sts on needle 2.
Thumb gusset:
In case you have trouble to follow the written instructions, there is a chart at the end of this pattern showing the building up of the gusset. RG: Round 33: kall sts on needle 1, k2, m1, pm, k2, pm, m1, knit the remaining sts on needle 2. Round 34-36: work round 2-4 of the stitch pattern, always knitting the 2 sts between the markers. Repeat rounds 33-36 9 [10] more times, increasing 2 sts every fourth round (on the right of the first marker and on the left of the second marker) till you've increased 10 [11] sts on both sides of the two central sts, complete the repeat (72 [76] rounds worked). $\underline{{\mathsf{L G}}}.$ Round 33: $^{\ast}\mathsf{k}^{\ast}$ until 4 sts remain on needle 1, m1, pm, k2, pm, m1, k2, then knit the remaining sts on needle 2. Round 34-36: work round 2-4 of the stitch pattern, always knitting the 2 sts between the markers. Repeat rounds 33-36 9 [10] more times, increasing 2 sts every fourth round (on the right of the first marker and on the left of the second marker) till you've increased 10 [11] sts on both sides of the two central sts, complete the repeat (72 [76] rounds worked).
This will result in having RG: 26 [30] sts on needle 1 and 48 [54] sts on needle 2. LG: 48 [54] sts on needle 1 and 26 [30] sts on needle 2.
$\mathtt{R G}+\mathtt{L G}{\mathrm{:}}$
Round 73 [77]: k to 9 [10] sts before the first marker. Place the next 20 [22] sts on waste yarn, cast on 2 sts using the backward loop method. Knit the remaining sts. This will result in having RG: 26 [30] sts on needle 1 and 30 [34] sts on needle 2. LG: 30 [34] sts on needle 1 and 26 [30] sts on needle 2. NOTE: On the first round after stitches got cast on (for the thumb as well as the fingers), always knit these stitches, never slip them.
Hand:
Round 1-3: work round 2-4 of the stitch pattern. NOTE: On the first round don't slip one of the cast- on sts but knit both sts and then go on in stitch pattern. Round 4-19: work round 1-4 of the stitch pattern 4 more times.
RG:
Round 20: knit all sts till 8 [10] remain on needle 2. Place these 8 [10] sts onto waste yarn and cast on 4 sts using the backward loop method. Round 21: Place 4 sts onto the same piece of waste yarn and go on working round 2 of the stitch pattern. Round 22-23: work round 3 and 4 of the stitch pattern. Round 24-27: work Round 1-4 of the stitch pattern.
Round 20: knit all sts till 4 remain on needle 2. Place these 4 sts onto waste yarn and cast on 4 sts using the backward loop method.
Round 21: Place 8 [10] sts onto the same piece of waste yarn and go on working round 2 of the stitch pattern. Round 22-23: work round 3 and 4 of the stitch pattern. Round 24-27: work Round 1-4 of the stitch pattern.
Fingers:
Transfer all sts onto waste yarn (or spare circular needle in the same size you're using or smaller).
RG:
Ring finger:
Put 6 [8] stitches from the back of the hand (former needle 1) back on needle 1 and 10 stitches from the palm side (former needle 2) back on needle 2. Knit the stitches from the back of the hand, cast on 4 stitches using the backward loop method and complete the round by knitting the stitches from the palm side. Continue working the stitch pattern on these 20 [22] sts, (starting with round 2) until the finger is $3\,\mathsf{m m}$ shorter than your ring finger when wearing the glove. Work k2tog to the end of the round (if the total stitch count is uneven: knit the remaining stitch). Break the yarn and thread it through the remaining stitches twice. Pull tight and weave in the end.
Middle finger
Put 8 stitches from the back of the hand back on needle 1 and 6 [8] stitches from the palm side back on needle 2. Knit the stitches from the back of the hand, cast on 4 stitches using the backward loop method, knit the stitches from the palm and pick up 4 stitches from the cast on edge to the ring finger. Continue working these 22 [24] sts as described for the ring finger.
Index finger:
Put the remaining 18 [20] stitches back on the needle. K them, then pick up 4 stitches from the cast on edge of the middle fin ger. Continue working these 22 [24]sts as described for the ring finger.
Put 8 [10] sts from the palm on needle 2 and 4 stitches from the back of hand back on needle 1. Start with needle 2 and $\textsf{k8}$ [10]. This is the new beginning of the round. Work round 2 of stitch pattern for the next 4 sts, pick up 4 sts from the cast-on edge to the ring finger, and continue in stitch pattern for the remaining 8 [10] sts. Continue working these 16 [18] sts as described for the ring finger.
LG:
Ring finger:
Put 6 stitches from the palm back on needle 1 and 10 [12] stitches from the back of the hand back on needle 2. Knit the stitches from the palm, cast on 4 stitches using the backward loop method and complete the round by knitting the stitches from the back of the hand. Continue working these 20 [22] sts as described for the ring finger.
Middle finger:
Put 6 [8] stitches from the palm back on needle 1 and 8 stitches from the back of the hand back on needle 2. Knit the stitches from the palm, cast on 4 stitches using the backward loop method, knit the stitches from the back of the hand and pick up 4 stitches from the cast-on edge to the ring finger. Continue working these 22 [24] sts as described for the ringfinger. Index finger: Same as on the right hand.
Put 4 sts from the back of the hand on needle 2 and 8 [10] sts from the palm on needle 1. Start with needle 2 and k4. This is the new beginning of the round. Work round 2 of stitch pattern for the next 8 [10] sts, pick up 4 sts from the cast on edge to the ring finger, and continue in stitch pattern for the remaining 4 sts. Continue working these 16 [18] sts as described for the ring finger.
Thumb: $(\mathsf{R G}+\mathsf{L G})$
Move the 20 [22] sts back on your needles. The beginning of the lUunu is plaueu wu sueles tu ue iell lull ue uast-ul yap. Round 1: Rejoin the yarn and $\mathsf{k}\mathsf{1}\mathsf{8}$ [20], pick up one sts from the gap between the st on your needle and the cast on edge, pick up 2 sts from the cast-on edge and again pick up one stitch from the gap,k2.
Round 2: \*k1, sl1wyif\*
Round $3:\mathsf{k}18$ [20], ssk, k2tog, k2. Go on working in stitch pattern (starting with round 2) until the finger is $3\mathsf{m m}$ shorter than your thumb when wearing the glove. Continue as described for the ring finger.
I-Cords:
There are 3 places where I-cords are attached: on the edge of the cuff and around the wrist in 2 places. For both cords around the wrist: Pick up one st out of every purl bump you created when working a purl round and place on a $2{,}25\ \mathrm{mm}$ needle\*. Cast on 3 sts using a provisional cast-on and work a 3-stitch I-cord: $^{\star}\mathsf{k}2$ then k2togtbl the last I-cord st with the first picked up st. Transfer the three knitted sts back on the left hand needle. Make sure that you knit the first stitch quite tight so the strand of yarn across the back of the 3 sts won't be sloppy. Continue until all picked up sts are consumed. Graft both ends of the I-cord together.
Cuff edge:
Pick up 62 [70] sts from the cast on edge\*. Don't start attaching the I-cord at the edge but redistribute the sts soyou can start somewhere in the middle so the joint won't be obvious. Work the I-cord until there is one stitch left till you reach the edge of the slit. Work one round of I-cord on the 3 l-cord sts without using a picked up st, work one normal round knitting together the remaining st, then work another round without a decrease. Now pick up sts from the sides of the slit in a ratio of 1:2 (1 stitch picked up every 2 rows) plus a sts from the center of the slit. Work the I-cord as described before till you used up all the slit sts. Continue knitting the I-cord around the edge as described before and knit the remaining picked up sts from the cast-on edge. Graft both ends of the I-cord together. Weave in all ends. If there are any holes from where the stitches are picked up, close them by weaving in while wearing the glove. \*Pick up only one strand from the cast-on edge when picking up the sts!
