Athena Tunic
Tunic is worked from the bottom up, first flat and then in the round. Straps are worked separately and sewn to top of garment. After the garment is finished an edge is added to the bottom to ensure that it lays flat. Also a pleat is created on the top both the front and back of tunic.
Size:
XS (S, M, L) sizes are given for XS with S, M, and L in parentheses. Finished Measurements Chest: 34 (36, 40, 44) inches. Hips: 34.5 (36.5, 40.5, 44.5) inches. Length of tunic body: 21(23.5, 27.5, 31.5) inches
Yarn:
Berroco Comfort Worsted Weight 9748 4 (5, 5, 6) skeins.
Needles:
Size 7 US or 5mm 32" (XS, S, M) or 36" (L) circular, or size needed to obtain gauge. Gauge: 20 sts 27 rows=4" Be sure to test your gauge both flat and in the round! A size seven may work for you flat, but do not assume it will give the same gauge in the round. Notions: Blunt needle Sharp needle Thread to match yarn
Aran Cable Repeat
14 rows worked over 16 stitches.
Lpk: slip 2 stitches to cable needle, hold in front, p1, k2 from cable needle. Rkp: slip 1 stitch to cable needle, hold in back, k2, p1 from cable needle. Rkk: slip 2 stitches to cable needle, hold to front, k2, k2 from cable needle. Lkk: slip 2 stitches to cable needle, hold to back, k2, k2 from cable needle.
Aran Cable
=sl1 back,k2, p1 from cn. =sl2front,p1,k2fromcn. =sl2front,k2,k2from cn =sl2back,k2,k2from cn. pon Rs,konWs. =k on RS,p on Ws. Just a note, for the cable non-standard abbreviations have been used. The reason being once you learn them they are organized by the direction of the “"twist" of the stitch and the order they are worked in. So for example, Ipk is not just a random choice of letters but left-purlknit. In Ipk the stitch "twists" to the left with a stitch purled and then 2 stitches knit. Once you understand this method of listing them by "sight" or how they look the terms will make moresense. Row 1: p1, k2, p2, Ipk, rkp, p2, k2, p1. Row 2: and all even rows, knit the knits and purl the purls. Row 3: p1, Ipk, p2, Ikk, p2, rkp, p1. Row 5: p2, Ipk, rkp, Ipk, rkp, p2. Row 7: p3, rkk, p2, rkk, p3. Row 9: p2, rkp, Ipk, rkp, Ipk, p2. Row 11: p1, rkp, p2, Ikk, p2, Ipk, p1. Row 13: p1, k2, p2, rkp, Ipk, p2, k2, p1. Row 14: knit the knits and purl the purls.
Bottom Edge
CO 95 (100, 110, 120) using cable cast on. Work flat. Row 1: (RS) slip 1, k1, pm, work row 1 of cable, pm, k 59 (64, 74, 84), pm, work row 1 of cable, pm, k2. Row 2: (Ws) slip 1, p1, pm, work row 2 of cable, pm, p 59 (64, 74, 84), pm, work row 2 of cable, pm, p2. Rows 3-14: Begin each row with sl 1, k1 (RS) or sl 1, p1 (WS). Continue to work cable on either side of panel for one repeat, maintaining the 59 (64, 74, 84) in St st. End each row with k2 (RS) or p2 (WS). End with right side facing and break yarn. Keep st on needle and repeat CO, keeping the old st to the left side. Work in pattern as before. End with right side facing.
Hips
The next row is worked flat across both sets of CO and willjoin the two pieces. Take care that your pieces are positioned properly and do not twist during the join nor while knitting the next several rows. Pattern and images @2011 Row 1: K2, work row 1 of cable, k 59 (64, 74, 84), work row 1 of cable, k4 (this will join the two pieces on one side), work row 1 of cable, k59 (64, 74, 84), work row 1 of cable, k4 (completing the joining in round), then place a distinguishable marker to indicate the beginning of the row. Row 2: work row 2 of cable, k 59 (64, 74, 84), work row 2 of cable, k4, work row 2 of cable, k 59 (64, 74, 84), work row 2 of cable,k4. Rows 3-14: work cable, k59 (64, 74, 84), work cable, k4, work cable, k 59 (64, 74, 84), work cable, k4. The hip section will now have one cable repeat.
Main Body
Continue cable, St st, and k4 as demonstrated in above for 6 (7, 8, 9) more repeats. Note, this is not rows but the total number of cable repeats worked.
Set up round(s) for Bodice
By now tunic should reach almost to your armpits. Modification: if you find that tunic is too short for your tastes work a couple of cable repeats. Just be sure to endonrow14ofcable. Row 1: work row 1 of cable, k59 (64, 74, 84), work row 1 of cable, k2, m1, k2, work row 1 of cable, k59 (64, 74, 84), work row 1 of cable, k2, m1, k2. Row 2: work row 2 of cable, k 59 (64, 74, 84), work row 2 of cable, k5, work row 2 of cable, k 59 (64, 74, 84), work row 2 of cable,k5. Row 3: work row 3 of cable, k 59 (64, 74, 84), work row 3 of cable, k3, m1, k2, work row 3 of cable, k 59 (64, 74, 84), work row 3 of cable, k3, m1, k2. Row 4: work row 4 of cable, k 59 (64, 74, 84), work row 4 of cable, k6, work row 4 of cable, k59 (64, 74, 84), work row 4 of cable, k6.
Bodice and Bodice Decrease
Bodice is now worked flat, first the front half of stitches and then the back half. Back st can be put on holders once row 1 is worked or left on needle until front is finished. Row 1: work row 5 of cable, k 59 (64, 74, 84), work row 5 of cable, k3. Turn. Row 2: sl 1, p2, work row 6 of cable, p 59 (64, 74, 84), work row 6 of cable, remove marker, p3. Turn. Row 3: sl 1, k2, work row 7 of cable, k 59 (64, 74, 84), work row 7 of cable, k3. Turn. Continue rows 8-14 of cable repeat while keeping slip 1, k(p) 2 at the beginning of the row and k (p) 3 at end and St st. Work 0 (0, 1, 1) more repeats of cable as given above.
Decrease rows:
Row 1: sl 1, k2, work row 1 of cable, k2tog, k to 2 st before cable panel, ssk, work row 1 of cable, k3. Row 2: sl 1, p2, work row 2 of cable, p center sts, work row 2 of cable, p3. Continue rows 2-14 of cable repeat while keeping sl1, k (p) 2 at the beginning of the row and k (p) 3 at the end of the row. Next row: sl 1, k2, work row 1 of cable, k3, bind off to last 2 sts, k2, work row 1 of cable, k3. Place each of the 22 just worked onto stitch holders and break yarn. Place back half of stitches on needle. With right side facing, join yarn and repeat bodice rows as given above.
Straps
After the last row of bodice you will have four sets of 22 stitches, these become the straps. Re-join yarn and place strap stitches on your needle (it does not matter which set of stitches you choose). Begin each row with slip 1, k2 (p2), cable, k3 (p3). Work 4 (4, 5, 6) cable repeats to make strap and end on row 12, using kitchener stitch graft the live stitches of the strap you just worked to the strap adjacent to it. Repeat for other strap. Here (http://www.knittinghelp.com/forum/showthread.php?p=474749 ) is a great forum thread on grafting, AKA, the evil gremlin! As a side note, I worked my graft on the back, so I worked the straps over the front 22 sts and then grafted them to the back 22 sts. This helps hide the join or any mistakes made with it.
Finishing
With right side facing, pick up 95 (101, 111, 121) sts along bottom, front edge, turn. K one row, turn. Row 1: k1, p1, \*sl1 wyib, p1; rep from \*, end k1. Turn. Row 2: k1, \*sl1 wyif, k1; rep from \*. Turn. Repeat these 2 rows once more. Bind off all stitches, cut yarn and leave 24" tail. When you look at the back side you will notice that there is a slight lip from the original CO. Take the tail and thread through a blunt needle and use this to stitch the "bulge' Pattern and images @2011 to the linen stitch edge. This will finish off the edge. Repeat with bottom back edge. Place garment on flat surface with front facing up. Measure the neck and find the middle, mark with a safety pin. From the middle place two more pins 1" (2", 2", 2") from the middle. Take pin A and pull to middle. Take pin B and also pull to the middle. Using matching thread or scrap yarn sew fold created by pin A and B across top. This makes a dart. Repeat with back. Weave in loose ends and block. Wear and enjoy!
